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The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine

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An unforgettable portrait of France's legendary chef, and the sophisticated, unforgiving world of French gastronomy

Bernard Loiseau was one of only twenty-five French chefs to hold Europe's highest culinary award, three stars in the Michelin Red Guide, and only the second chef to be personally awarded the Legion of Honor by a head of state. Despite such triumphs, he shocked the culinary world by taking his own life in February 2003. The GaultMillau guidebook had recently dropped its ratings of Loiseau's restaurant, and rumors swirled that he was on the verge of losing a Michelin star (a prediction that proved to be inaccurate).

Journalist Rudolph Chelminski, who befriended Loiseau three decades ago and followed his rise to the pinnacle of French restaurateurs, now gives us a rare tour of this hallowed culinary realm. The Perfectionist is the story of a daydreaming teenager who worked his way up from complete obscurity to owning three famous restaurants in Paris and rebuilding La Côte d'Or, transforming a century-old inn and restaurant that had lost all of its Michelin stars into a luxurious destination restaurant and hotel. He started a line of culinary products with his name on them, appeared regularly on television and in the press, and had a beautiful, intelligent wife and three young children he adored - Bernard Loiseau seemed to have it all.

An unvarnished glimpse inside an echelon filled with competition, culture wars, and impossibly high standards, The Perfectionist vividly depicts a man whose energy and enthusiasm won the hearts of staff and clientele, while self-doubt and cut-throat critics took their toll.

354 pages, Hardcover

First published January 27, 2005

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Rudolph Chelminski

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5 stars
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183 (23%)
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54 (6%)
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 66 reviews
Profile Image for Mark  Porton.
605 reviews811 followers
December 31, 2022
The last year our so of my working life I started to look for people with transferable skills, rather than people with pathology experience to work as clinical assistants in our busy pathology lab in Far North Queensland. People like motor mechanics, nurses, vet nurses and even a couple of executive chefs. Yes, these people know how to work under pressure, manage time and are customer focused.

One of the ex-chefs in the lab (Troy), lent me a book called The Perfectionist by Rudolph Chelminski a fascinating biography of one of France’s best known 3-Star Michelin Chefs, a guy called Bernard Loiseau. Bernard started his career kitchens in 1968-71 – he worked for the famous brothers Jean and Pierre Troisgros. These guys (particularly Jean) demanded absolute obedience, devotion and hard work. Total discipline and attention to the smallest detail were the order of the day.

Bernard had a big mouth and was always the first to ‘crack a joke’ or speak up when he shouldn’t – he often found himself in trouble, he also had a burning desire to become a top chef – THE top chef. Apprentice chefs truly starting their working lives at the bottom – cleaning, scrubbing, peeling. This book revealed to me how far down the pecking order they were.

After stints at various places Bernard crossed paths with restauratuer Claude Verger in 1972, who eventually purchased a famous regional restaurant called La Côte d'Or in Saulieu in 1975. Bernard became the head chef, a wonderful opportunity for a young man of 25 years of age. One thing struck me here - that is, there are many first class restaurants in small French country villages and towns.

Talented, obsessive, hard-working with a brilliant palette a massive smile and a magnetic personality – meant the Michelin Stars eventually came rolling in for Bernard. This was no mean feat – eventually he gained his 3rd Star in 1991. During this journey, he went through two marriages, almost became bankrupt, worked incessantly without a break (his restaurant never closed and he was always on-service), he was always on the phone engaging journalists, other chefs and industry movers and shakers. He never stopped.

Bernard always sought external validation – in a big way, He would also ask colleagues, friends and clients – if he was any good. If his menu was good enough, if the sauce was tasty enough – in fact, reading about all his attempts to gain approval became a little exhausting. It was also clear from the testimonials of those close to him that he suffered from bipolar disorder. He had extreme highs, followed by terrible lows.

At this height – bearing in mind he had no spare time, he wrote books, was a celebrity chef and even had his name attached to various supermarket foods. He was everywhere.

Bernard used a shotgun given to him as a gift by his second wife to commit suicide in 2003. He shot himself in the head, after a lunch service and telling one of his young boys to 'go play in the garden'. Apparently, he is not the only top chef to die by his or her own hand, or by stress related illness. These people seem to die in their 40’s and 50’s.

This was terribly sad, because Bernard seemed like such a fun man, he was very talented, and this was only exceeded by his generosity. He was such a generous man. A good man.



I am so glad I read this, thanks to my chef mate Troy, I now know about a man who deserves to be known about. This is such a good read – much of this resonated with me for various reasons and I found it to be a very emotional read, giving me lots of reason to reflect.

If a book does this – it deserves 3 Michelin Stars or 5-Goodreads Stars

RIP Bernard Loiseau
Profile Image for Lobstergirl.
1,923 reviews1,438 followers
January 24, 2014

I've become increasingly interested in high-end cooking shows and what goes on in fine restaurants. Not because I want to learn how to cook elegantly (girl, please) or because I intend to start frequenting 3-Michelin starred establishments (can't afford it). I watch a lot of cookery videos on the Youtube, and one of them, Michelin Stars: The Madness of Perfection, probably produced by the BBC, was about the star system and the crazy desire and pressure to get and keep stars. The video mentioned the subject of this book, Bernard Loiseau, who committed suicide in 2003 because of the pressures of maintaining such a high level of perfection in his restaurant, and possibly also because there were rumors he was about to lose his third star. (He wasn't.) The video failed to mention that he was also bipolar, which really seems more of a contributing cause than anything else. He had stopped taking Prozac because he didn't like the even-keeled lassitude it brought; it made him feel like an entirely different person, one he wasn't comfortable with.

The book is overlong and overly repetitious. Worse, Chelminski's writing style is atrocious, utterly overblown. Horrible similes and metaphors abound. Sample: "In the days and weeks between these snatches of comfort, Bernard kept in touch with Dominique, as he always did with everyone else, by phone. Never was there a cook, or entrepreneur of any sort, for that matter, who relied on Mr. Bell's clever talking instrument more than this one." Although it sounds like Chelminski must be describing the year 1898 here, we're actually in 1986.

The author informs us that Loiseau's second wife Dominique "arrived suitably estrous in Saulieu on a Wednesday evening" in order to conceive their first child. Loiseau struggled "with Eli Lilly's mind-bending molecule." He means Prozac. The text in restaurant guides can't be just "paragraphs," it has to be "dithyrambic paragraphs."

Save your time and read this New Yorker article about Loiseau's restaurant and suicide. It's much better than this book.

http://www.newyorker.com/archive/2003...
Profile Image for Kristella Lepak.
4 reviews
December 21, 2017
Perhaps the way this book was written really isn't for me. While I appreciated little tidbits of menus from classical French chefs, tiny insights into their culinary techniques, and the same from Bertrand's side, the overwhelming redundancy of French phrases, obscure references to various Greek classics, opera, historical literature, and Mao (seriously, what is this guy's deal with Mao?) just ruined it for me. It dragged on and on and on and on until finally I just had to skim the last 50 pages or so. Perhaps if you're a Francophile and get off on knowing why Bernard was "no Othello" since you're so familiar with other cultural spearheads, you might get a kick out of this book. I wish there was a better biographical book about Bertrand because he's such a lively person and this writing is just utterly dull and pretentious.
Profile Image for Emily.
687 reviews688 followers
November 9, 2009
The Perfectionist is by Rudolph Chelminski, an American journalist who has long lived in France, and tells the story of Bernard Loiseau, the three-star chef who committed suicide in 2003.

What the book is really about, though, is the Michelin guide and the world of French restaurants and chefs. It goes back decades to tell about the growth of roadside restaurants in the countryside, fostered by the automobile, and the Michelin guide's roots as handbook for travelers. It discusses the rise of the restaurant where Loiseau did his apprenticeship and the milieu of top chefs and food writers.

Then--a good third of the way into the book--Chelminski starts telling the story of Loiseau's life. An outsider with a funny name (l'oiseau=the bird), Loiseau left his apprenticeship with no job lined up and landed at a tiny restaurant on the outskirts of Paris, which suddenly became trendy. The owner of that restaurant helped him buy a countryside restaurant that had fallen on hard times and Loiseau laboriously built it into a destination over the course of twenty years. As soon as he won his third Michelin star, however, he became obsessed with the humiliating prospect of losing it.

How you receive the book would probably depend on your expectations. If you are reading for character sketches, it won't be very satisfying, because, despite having been acquainted with Loiseau for years, Chelminski does not have a lot of insight into his fears and flatly chalks the suicide up to manic depression. If you want to learn a lot about haute cuisine in France, you'll be much better pleased. Chelminski describes the history of French cooking and trends of the past twenty years and effectly evokes the style of a top restaurant.
41 reviews1 follower
March 21, 2017
This book is the biography of world-renowned French chef Bernard Loiseau, and the events that led up to his tragic suicide in 2003. (Don't worry, that wasn't a spoiler. The first line of the book tells you that.) While I was interested in the contents of this book and learning about Loiseau's life, the atrocious writing style made this book unnecessarily slow and hard to read.

Chelminski tries to emulate Shakespeare, but does it poorly. Instead of simply giving us the story and the facts surrounding it, he floods the book with run-on sentences, snobby words, and pompous descriptions. Here are a couple of examples:

"Even the new installation was showing signs of fatigue, though, and day by passing day, slowly and almost imperceptibly, the whole establishment was taking on that indefinable but clearly recognizable air of genteel shabbiness that marks places and people that had known better days and were reduced to the edge of penury." (page 116)

"I was buying it, of course, like anyone else who ever found himself in a one-on-one situation six inches away from that human high-pressure zone in the white chef's tunic, with that big, round, strong-chinned face looming forward behind that huge smile, as arms windmilled and fist smacked into palm to further underline what was already hyperbolic." (page 188)

JUST GET TO THE POINT! We get it. The restaurant was starting to look dated and run down. And the chef was very intimidating when you talked to him. JUST SAY THAT! Stop trying to be arrogant by showing us you know fancy words and phrases. I didn't even finish half of the sentences in this book because they were so long.

Despite the horrible writing, I did learn quite a bit about the chef and restaurant industry. I learned that a chef's life is their only life. I learned how the Michelin guide to restaurants and Michelin Stars were created. I learned about some culinary tricks to create delicious food. And I learned about the pressure that comes with trying to make a successful restaurant...and to keep it successful.

Bernard Loiseau led an amazing life that ended horribly. I advise anyone who might want to read this book to put it down and find a documentary on YouTube. It will be more interesting, and you will save yourself hours upon hours of time.

Profile Image for John McNeilly.
42 reviews59 followers
May 2, 2008
If you’ve perused my “books to read” section, you’ll immediately notice I'm a foodie. Lately I've been gobbling up any and all books about chefs and cooking (with Anthony Bourdain emerging as my favorite – believe it or not, the guy writes really well and he's funny as hell). This book chronicles the life of one of France’s most famous and decorated chefs who dreamed since childhood of creating and owning a 3-star Michelin guide restaurant – the very pinnacle of success in France, who, as well all know (or should know), is obsessed with haute cuisine in the way we are obsessed about professional football. The book follows his fanatical quest to achieve this life-long dream and sadly shows how the pressures and stresses associated with gaining and holding onto such achievements, ultimately leads to tragedy. Chelminski is a fine writer, and often very witty, but I have a serious complaint about its length and windiness. This book easily could have been reduced by a third, and should have been. However, if you like professional cooking, and want to get into the head and obsessions of one of the world's finest chefs, I recommend this book. If you're not into any of those things, I don’t think you’d make it past the first few pages.
Profile Image for Stephanie H.
272 reviews10 followers
January 10, 2011
There are a few key personal characteristics needed when even beginning to read Chelminski's book.

1. Have a basic appreciation or knowledge of french gastronomy (including flavors, techniques and evolution from haute cuisine for Escoffier's accessible "ready to wear" foods)
2. Know a little bit of french language (some things aren't translated)
3. Have some knowledge of history (including but not limited to 19th century european or WWII)
4. Have an all too dry wit (some people will often consider you pompous or insufferable)

Chelminski creates a wonderful portrait of the life of Bernard Loiseau, his bipolar disorder and his rise to fame in his three Michelin star restaurant. It goes in depth and creates some of the greatest written food porn I have ever read. However, it takes the picture a little too far, becomes a little too pretentious, and at times becomes tedious and difficult to read.

Did it make me hate the book at times? Of course. Did it make me really want to even taste this stinging nettle and snail soup? You bet it did!
1,719 reviews2 followers
February 2, 2023
I realized recently that I'm swiftly heading towards the day when I'll read more non-fiction than fiction (this assumes that we consider memoirs non-fiction). It's a few years off, but coming. The Perfectionist is a prime example of what's pulling me over - carefully researched, packed with interesting information, beautifully written, and "worthwhile" - you feel like you learned something by reading it. It's the story of Bernard Loiseau, 3 star chef, and the Michelin rating system. If you like food and France, you'll enjoy this book. (update from second reading - it's still wonderful, if anything better the second time around)
Profile Image for Sara.
245 reviews36 followers
December 26, 2007
This book tracks the 20th century development of haute cuisine in France through the life of Bernard Loiseau. It follows Loiseau from his unimpressive boyhood to his adult life as a celebrity chef all underlined by the same passion:
a top rating of three stars from the Michelin guide.

The author backtracks the reader through the progression of how Michelin, a tire company, came to be able to engineer the rise and fall of French chefs with their travel guide. He gives examples of the enormous personalities that have won the coveted three stars and explores the peculiar culinary obsessions of those that possess and pursue them.

Loiseau's story is a sad one, and rather drawn out, with many references bouncing the reader back to earlier influential chefs and Michelin procedures. Still, it is interesting to learn that levels of obsession like Loiseau's exist and to read about the lengths to which he goes to ensure perfection for his guests.
62 reviews
June 7, 2008
Great, fast-paced read; a much brighter story than I expected considering the grim ending. Fascinating exploration of French food and culture. Chelminski's at his best when describing food, wine, and the restaurant business. Otherwise he's a little too enchanted by his own prose.
110 reviews1 follower
May 28, 2018
Entrancing: I didn't realize haute cuisine chef-ery could be so fascinating. I give credit to the author for the (true life) story telling about this character, passion, training, work, and discipline.
316 reviews
August 23, 2013
I knew nothing about the French cooking establishment, so it was interesting to read about the history of it. However, Chelminski was big on the in depth descriptions of food preparation that would go on for paragraphs, and that got to be a bit boring after a while. It was a struggle to finish, because the wordiness really detracted from the story line.
I think if you were really interested in cooking and cookery this book would be right up your alley. Otherwise, it's interesting but too dry for a thrilling read.
Profile Image for Lynne.
518 reviews22 followers
November 26, 2013
LOVED this book. It was well researched and although the basis is the life and death of Bernard Loiseau - it really is about French cuisine. The history of the Michelin stars, the history of classical French cooking and the masters. It follows Loiseau's path to greatness and then his self-destructive fall.

I didn't give it 5 stars simply because it did repeat itself at times ... and some of the times it felt like Chelminski was name dropping Chef's names - but otherwise, it was great. A highly delicious read - full of interesting tidbits and well written.
Profile Image for Mark.
52 reviews4 followers
May 26, 2008
A quick-reading memoir, of sorts, from a journalist who'd spent a good deal of time in and around Chez Loiseau. A not-exacting but still marvelous story of 3-star chefdom (3 being the summit for restaurants; Michelin rates hotels up to 5 stars), the role of the media and le Guide rouge, and what it takes to make it in cooking - especially when you're as determined as Bernard Loiseau. My only regret is that I never ate his food ...
Profile Image for Paola.
145 reviews41 followers
July 13, 2012
The biography of the tragic Chef Bernard Loiseau - an intriguing insight into the inner workings of the Michelin guide, of restaurant life and the harrowing routines professional chefs striving for the best have to go through for the highest prize.

Informative, dramatic, scary and insightful, for me it was a page turner. Highly recommended to anyone with an interest in the world of professional cooks and its trappings.
Profile Image for Sean Keenan.
22 reviews8 followers
December 18, 2016
My mom gave me this book. I really enjoyed it. I think it gives the reader a good idea of the Chef's dilemma, the unobtainable ideal of perfection. I think it also teaches us about the detriment of always striving to please others. In the background of all that there is a great respect for the tradition of French cooking and I absolutely love that. If you never had a desire to dine in France before this book, soon after you will.
Profile Image for haley.
40 reviews1 follower
December 23, 2007
I love books about food, And I love books about france. So naturally this book is pretty damn entertaining for me. I love culinary history, and this is a sort of biography of one of France's most famous chefs---so famous that right before his death, 9 out of 10 French people could identify him by name. That's more than the president. Amazing.

Profile Image for Liz.
482 reviews5 followers
September 28, 2016
If you have any interest in cooking or France, or you just like well-written nonfiction, you need to read this book. And I promise it's not too French - the author translates everything for us lazy schmucks who forgot their HS French years ago.

Books that got 4 stars but stick in your mind for years become 5s.
Profile Image for Mark Poons.
43 reviews10 followers
January 1, 2008
I loved this book. While the story of Bernard Loiseau and La Côte d'Or is extremely fascinating, they only serve as the backdrop to a more important story. What the book is truly about is the rise of the media and critics in dictating the success and failure of restaurants and more importantly for the people that work at them.
Profile Image for Meg.
1,188 reviews24 followers
December 14, 2009
Hmmm.... I've been there. I've done that. Yes, chefs really are that obsessed. But....an author repeating the same thing through out the book, may be his obsession, but it is NOT that interesting. I loved the topic, I did not like the writing.
Take it as it is....nice to hear about Loiseau's life.
Profile Image for Amanda Munoz.
3 reviews
January 21, 2008
Paired with Julia Child, this made for quite the immersion in French cuisine over the holidays! Enjoyed the perspective on the high pressure environment of French restaurants and the challenge to get to and stay on top.
Profile Image for Kwoomac.
969 reviews46 followers
August 25, 2010
The true story of famed French chef Bernard Loiseau, his rise as a three Michelin star restauranteur, and his eventual suicide due to the pressure to maintain his stars. A glimpse at the very small world of French haute cuisine.
Profile Image for Nick.
4 reviews
November 24, 2017
Could have been written in half the space

An interesting combined history of the Michelin Guide and Bernard Loiseau, but affected prose and obtuse metaphors make the read more of an investment than it should be.
Profile Image for mindy mg .
41 reviews
August 16, 2007
I am just a bit into this, and not loving it. I am usually a sucker for food/chef related writing, and this one isn't very good.
1 review
February 14, 2008
Amazing insight into the world of French haute cuisine. Also provides some useful cooking tips!
Profile Image for Stephen Conti.
97 reviews2 followers
February 14, 2008
Read this when it came out (before there was a michelin guide here in NYC) Amazing look into the French restaurant scene and how Michelin rates them..... scary how dedicated the chefs are...
Profile Image for Ruffin.
58 reviews8 followers
March 9, 2008
so sad. a history of an incredibly famous chef in france, his quest for the culinary guides' crown, and his fall. fascinating and terrifying. and the french eat ortolan (tiny birds) *whole*???
Profile Image for Adriana Olson.
30 reviews1 follower
April 16, 2008
it takes a while to get through this book but if you are interested in micheilin star ratings i reccommend it. its very history oriented and detailed.
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