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Butter Tea at Sunrise: A Year in the Bhutan Himalaya
Often seen as a magical paradise at the end of the world, Bhutan is inaccessible to most travellers. Set against the dramatic scenery of the Himalaya, this beautiful memoir reveals hardships and happiness in a land almost untouched by the West. When Britta, a young physiotherapist, goes to work in a remote village hospital, her good intentions are put to the test amid monsoons, fleas and shocking conditions. But as she visits homes in the mountains and learns the mysteries of tantric Buddhism, the country casts its enduring spell. Gaining insights into the traditions of this mystical kingdom, she makes friends and falls in love. Bhutan will change her life forever.
312 pages, Paperback
First published September 13, 2006
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 46 reviews
March 25, 2019
I think this is about the fourth time I've read this same recipe; young woman heads off to find herself by working in Bhutan just as it was beginning to open up, and ends up finding happiness. Nothing wrong with that. I've enjoyed them all, but in my view Linda Leaming did it the best.
In this offering, Britta Das volunteers to work as a physiotherapist/educator in the township of Mongar in Easter Bhutan. From Chapter 1 she establishes beyond any doubt that this is a remote posting, even though the hospital at which she is based is a decent size (having recently been conferred the status of referral hospital for the region). She has to learn to deal with the weather, unreliable electricity supply, lack of choice in the local shops, and - here's a new one - ravenous fleas!! Luckily her hospital colleagues speak her language, although her older patients don't, so that presents some challenges at times, too.
Das takes us through her year in Bhutan by regaling us with anecdotes about people and situations she encounters in Mongar and the surrounding villages. It's nice. If you're interested, you can also see some of her photographs on www.brittadas.com to help illustrate the story. In terms of what was lacking, although there was a map of Bhutan in my edition, I would have really appreciated a more detailed map of greater Mongar to help get my bearings.
If you've already read Leaming, Zeppa and Napoli, and still want more, then this would be a good addition to your reading list.
In this offering, Britta Das volunteers to work as a physiotherapist/educator in the township of Mongar in Easter Bhutan. From Chapter 1 she establishes beyond any doubt that this is a remote posting, even though the hospital at which she is based is a decent size (having recently been conferred the status of referral hospital for the region). She has to learn to deal with the weather, unreliable electricity supply, lack of choice in the local shops, and - here's a new one - ravenous fleas!! Luckily her hospital colleagues speak her language, although her older patients don't, so that presents some challenges at times, too.
Das takes us through her year in Bhutan by regaling us with anecdotes about people and situations she encounters in Mongar and the surrounding villages. It's nice. If you're interested, you can also see some of her photographs on www.brittadas.com to help illustrate the story. In terms of what was lacking, although there was a map of Bhutan in my edition, I would have really appreciated a more detailed map of greater Mongar to help get my bearings.
If you've already read Leaming, Zeppa and Napoli, and still want more, then this would be a good addition to your reading list.
August 30, 2020
In the 1980s when I was working at a language school, we had a lesson on Voluntary Service Overseas. The organisation wasn't very well described, but I got the impression that it was something like America's Peace Corps, so I was interested to read this book. Unfortunately, it didn't live up to...well, much of anything. You won't learn a thing about VSO here. We are told she was so eager to get started she convinced VSO to forgo her language classes. I doubt they would allow this, unless she had at least a nodding acquaintance with the languages she would need in her posting, but she would have us believe that in just a couple of weeks she was conversing with her patients at a basic level.
I knew we were in trouble when the author said she was "charmed" by the sight of the prayer flags. Interested, intrigued, fascinated--all would have been word choices that drew me in, but "charmed" let me know that this is yet another young woman who romanticises everything. I was right. She's not interested in describing much of her work or interaction with the hospital staff. We are led to believe she holed up in the "physio room" and stayed there, unless she was cadging snacks and warmth at the nurses' station. Apparently she made no effort to create a rapport with other staffers at all. What little we see of her actual work casts her in the role of "saviour" of her patients and Little Mother of All Compassion, including paying their expenses to the city for better diagnosis etc. Her innate sense of superiority to everyone around her is evident in every line. When called on her behaviour, she "withdrew even further from the hospital"--the place she went to voluntarily, supposedly to serve the people there. No wonder the administrators looked askance! Of course everyone knew she was only there for a year, and then she'd be off to her next "adventure." I'm not being unkind, I have known many young adults like this, often language teachers or missionaries, who fled forward from one job, country, position to another. They leave promising eternal friendship, and you never hear another word. Their blog gets taken down and emails go unanswered as they run off to the next place and group of people.
Then there's her romance with the doctor--the only attractive male around, the one she refers to repeatedly as an arrogant know-it-all. I have to wonder how long that marriage actually lasted in the cold light of day when she was back in her own world.
I was strongly reminded of Eat, Pray, Love, as well as many self-appointed "missionaries" in my city...and that is not a compliment. The best that can be said for this book is that it is a "lite" fast read, due to its lack of content.
ETA: Curiously enough, the only info I can find online about Ms Dass refers to this book. Nothing about her life since Bhutan, her husband, or anything beyond the fact that she works in Toronto as a physiotherapist. Even Facebook only appears to have a plug for this book.
I knew we were in trouble when the author said she was "charmed" by the sight of the prayer flags. Interested, intrigued, fascinated--all would have been word choices that drew me in, but "charmed" let me know that this is yet another young woman who romanticises everything. I was right. She's not interested in describing much of her work or interaction with the hospital staff. We are led to believe she holed up in the "physio room" and stayed there, unless she was cadging snacks and warmth at the nurses' station. Apparently she made no effort to create a rapport with other staffers at all. What little we see of her actual work casts her in the role of "saviour" of her patients and Little Mother of All Compassion, including paying their expenses to the city for better diagnosis etc. Her innate sense of superiority to everyone around her is evident in every line. When called on her behaviour, she "withdrew even further from the hospital"--the place she went to voluntarily, supposedly to serve the people there. No wonder the administrators looked askance! Of course everyone knew she was only there for a year, and then she'd be off to her next "adventure." I'm not being unkind, I have known many young adults like this, often language teachers or missionaries, who fled forward from one job, country, position to another. They leave promising eternal friendship, and you never hear another word. Their blog gets taken down and emails go unanswered as they run off to the next place and group of people.
Then there's her romance with the doctor--the only attractive male around, the one she refers to repeatedly as an arrogant know-it-all. I have to wonder how long that marriage actually lasted in the cold light of day when she was back in her own world.
I was strongly reminded of Eat, Pray, Love, as well as many self-appointed "missionaries" in my city...and that is not a compliment. The best that can be said for this book is that it is a "lite" fast read, due to its lack of content.
ETA: Curiously enough, the only info I can find online about Ms Dass refers to this book. Nothing about her life since Bhutan, her husband, or anything beyond the fact that she works in Toronto as a physiotherapist. Even Facebook only appears to have a plug for this book.
March 9, 2021
Wasn't as good as I expected though I could get a glimpse into the village life of Bhutan. The book describes the year in which Britta lived in a remote village of Bhutan as a physiotherapist in a govt hospital and how she adapted to the totally alien life.
The stark poverty and lack of amenities reminded me yet again to count my blessings .
I read the book with great interest though I found it repetitive in places , and even a bit boring in the latter half .
P.S. Britta also acquired her surname Das from Bhutan .
The stark poverty and lack of amenities reminded me yet again to count my blessings .
I read the book with great interest though I found it repetitive in places , and even a bit boring in the latter half .
P.S. Britta also acquired her surname Das from Bhutan .
January 30, 2019
Britta travels to Bhutan to volunteer as a physiotherapist, and discovers a beautiful country with beautiful people amid the Himalaya Mountains.
September 11, 2012
I picked this book up as I was looking for some writing on Bhutan culture and life in Bhutan. It provides a whole lot more than that. Britta has written a very candid experience of hers. In addition to the life and culture in Bhutan, there are many stories layered very beautifully. There is the author-doctor who is striving for the health of the people in Bhutan, there is the romantic journey in flashes, then there is the intensity of the monks and the Buddhists or even the struggles of a Canadian in Bhutan.
It is not a heavy reading, at times, I found it boring too when the description of the scenery got verbose. There is a tinge of sentimentalism that the author was not watchful of when she was writing I presume.
The story flows quite naturally and freely without any hiccups one has to get adjusted to.
I'm glad I read this book. If you like travel, are interested in various cultures, this is a good book to read. If you've been to Bhutan, you may not enjoy this book, but, if you haven't, there are chances that you'll love this.
It is not a heavy reading, at times, I found it boring too when the description of the scenery got verbose. There is a tinge of sentimentalism that the author was not watchful of when she was writing I presume.
The story flows quite naturally and freely without any hiccups one has to get adjusted to.
I'm glad I read this book. If you like travel, are interested in various cultures, this is a good book to read. If you've been to Bhutan, you may not enjoy this book, but, if you haven't, there are chances that you'll love this.
July 3, 2012
Most travel books are written by professional writers, journalists or scholars who like to travel. Every once in a while an ordinary person simply tells the story of their stay in a world very different from their own because it seems worth sharing. This is one of those books. Just a window into an otherwise private person's life upended and transformed by going to live and work in a remote Bhutanese village. I couldn't put it down! And a month later i had arranged to spend a substantial chunk of change for an extended trip to Bhutan so I could learn more.
June 15, 2019
Britta's memoir throws a light into the incredible lives of people in this gorgeous country in the 90s. While sharing intricate details about unique lives of the people here, she keeps the reader engaged with interspersed stories of her personal life and her romance with her future husband.
Overall a satisfying read that leaves a smile on your lips as you turn the last page.
Overall a satisfying read that leaves a smile on your lips as you turn the last page.
October 6, 2007
I have to say, I wasn't overly fond of this book. It really wasn't a travelogue as such and I found that it gave no real sense of the country. It also verged off into sentimentalism toward the end.
January 22, 2016
A very special book. A riveting story beautifully told. The story takes place in a small Irish town and is told from the point of view of several of the townspeople. The way of telling the story reminded me of Olive Kitteridge.
August 5, 2025
One of my favorite genres is memoirs written by non-famous people, so this really appeal to me when I saw it on one of my treks to the library. Alas, it was merely okay.
Das can write, I will say. She does a great job explaining her time in Bhutan, relates some of the patients she worked with, showed us the remoteness of her posting and how often the electricity went out. But I am disheartened by her attitude. She harped often on the lack of hygiene, how you could always smell unwashed bodies, how a malodorous public latrine was next to a holy shrine. I mean, there is no running water. It’s going to be difficult to stay as clean as the people she’s used to back home in Toronto.
There was a theme running through most of Das’s narrative in which she sees the people of Bhutan as innocent and childlike, unable or unwilling to understand the directives of the doctors and therapists. But to be honest, where is her compassion for the way they’ve lived their lives for hundreds of years? She’s too quick to throw money at a problem, like that is the only issue. In these sorts of cultures, it’s not simply a matter of getting together the money to do a thing, like travel to a larger hospital, but also whoever is left at home will have to manage without the labor of the people who are away. My husband would be deployed for 8 months at a stretch, but the reason I could keep the house running on my own with two young children and two cats was because I have washing machines and dryers and dishwashers and stoves. I didn’t have to chop wood for the fire and stoke the fire and heat water for washing and cooking before I really even started my day.
There was quite a lot of the white savior complex in Das’s narrative as well, which made me uncomfortable.
I will say that reading this book made me more interested to learn about Bhutan, but there were some serious issues with this memoir.
Das can write, I will say. She does a great job explaining her time in Bhutan, relates some of the patients she worked with, showed us the remoteness of her posting and how often the electricity went out. But I am disheartened by her attitude. She harped often on the lack of hygiene, how you could always smell unwashed bodies, how a malodorous public latrine was next to a holy shrine. I mean, there is no running water. It’s going to be difficult to stay as clean as the people she’s used to back home in Toronto.
There was a theme running through most of Das’s narrative in which she sees the people of Bhutan as innocent and childlike, unable or unwilling to understand the directives of the doctors and therapists. But to be honest, where is her compassion for the way they’ve lived their lives for hundreds of years? She’s too quick to throw money at a problem, like that is the only issue. In these sorts of cultures, it’s not simply a matter of getting together the money to do a thing, like travel to a larger hospital, but also whoever is left at home will have to manage without the labor of the people who are away. My husband would be deployed for 8 months at a stretch, but the reason I could keep the house running on my own with two young children and two cats was because I have washing machines and dryers and dishwashers and stoves. I didn’t have to chop wood for the fire and stoke the fire and heat water for washing and cooking before I really even started my day.
There was quite a lot of the white savior complex in Das’s narrative as well, which made me uncomfortable.
I will say that reading this book made me more interested to learn about Bhutan, but there were some serious issues with this memoir.
July 23, 2020
In Dutch: Koninkrijk in de wolken: mijn jaar in Bhutan.
Interessant verhaal over een Duits-Canadese fysiotherapeute die een jaar in een ziekenhuis in een kleine stad in het oosten van Bhutan doorbrengt. Ze observeert veel over de levenswijze van de mensen, en doet haar best de taal te leren en de gewoontes en tradities van de lokale bevolking te respecteren. Ze ontmoet daar een sympathieke arts uit India, Bikal, die beter de taal spreekt dan zij, en samen gaan ze op bezoek bij patiënten en de familie van haar collega, Pema. Ze bouwt een hechte relatie met twee van de jongste patiënten in het ziekenhuis op, en helpt ze op weg naar een onafhankelijk leven.
Ik merk dat ik dit soort reisboek veel interessanter vindt dan boeken die meer over het reizen zelf gaan. Hier krijg je echt inzicht in het leven, het Boeddistisch geloof en de tradities van de mensen, en ook hoe het bedreigt wordt door invloeden van buitenaf. Op het moment dat het boek geschreven werd, was er nog geen televisie in Bhutan, behalve films uit India; inmiddels is dat veranderd, en er komen steeds meer wegen. Ik had wel het idee dat Britta meer had kunnen leren over waarom mensen bepaalde dingen deed, en hoe ze over ziekzijn dachten; er was natuurlijk een taalbarriere, maar ik had vaak het gevoel dat Britta haar eigen interpretatie van de motieven van andere mensen had, zonder te vragen of ze gelijk had. Nog één opmerking: de vertaler gebruikt steeds het woord 'vertwijfeld', en ik twijfel of dat elke keer de goede vertaling was; irritant.
Interessant verhaal over een Duits-Canadese fysiotherapeute die een jaar in een ziekenhuis in een kleine stad in het oosten van Bhutan doorbrengt. Ze observeert veel over de levenswijze van de mensen, en doet haar best de taal te leren en de gewoontes en tradities van de lokale bevolking te respecteren. Ze ontmoet daar een sympathieke arts uit India, Bikal, die beter de taal spreekt dan zij, en samen gaan ze op bezoek bij patiënten en de familie van haar collega, Pema. Ze bouwt een hechte relatie met twee van de jongste patiënten in het ziekenhuis op, en helpt ze op weg naar een onafhankelijk leven.
Ik merk dat ik dit soort reisboek veel interessanter vindt dan boeken die meer over het reizen zelf gaan. Hier krijg je echt inzicht in het leven, het Boeddistisch geloof en de tradities van de mensen, en ook hoe het bedreigt wordt door invloeden van buitenaf. Op het moment dat het boek geschreven werd, was er nog geen televisie in Bhutan, behalve films uit India; inmiddels is dat veranderd, en er komen steeds meer wegen. Ik had wel het idee dat Britta meer had kunnen leren over waarom mensen bepaalde dingen deed, en hoe ze over ziekzijn dachten; er was natuurlijk een taalbarriere, maar ik had vaak het gevoel dat Britta haar eigen interpretatie van de motieven van andere mensen had, zonder te vragen of ze gelijk had. Nog één opmerking: de vertaler gebruikt steeds het woord 'vertwijfeld', en ik twijfel of dat elke keer de goede vertaling was; irritant.
October 3, 2019
Amazing book wrote with a lot of heart in it. Loved the description of the Bhutanese landscapes and the various traditions from the eyes of a foreigner. The author is a Canadian citizen with a degree in physiotherapy. Her duels with the illnesses of a remote town in Bhutan with its beauty and lovely people is presented with many lovely photos and pictures.
The first part was an excellent travelogue and made me want to visit Bhutan to view the glorious images depicted.
But, the second half turned into a romantic story with the author and her now husband taking up much of the space. It was interspersed with nice stories and depicted some intricate topics of Bhutanese culture in the viewpoint of her husband.
The first part was an excellent travelogue and made me want to visit Bhutan to view the glorious images depicted.
But, the second half turned into a romantic story with the author and her now husband taking up much of the space. It was interspersed with nice stories and depicted some intricate topics of Bhutanese culture in the viewpoint of her husband.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
May 4, 2011
This one falls into the category of "books-that-are-ostensibly-about-women doing-awesome-things-but-that-are-actually-about-a-very-typical-romance." I cannot fathom how you could spend a year in Bhutan - which is one of the most fascinating and forbidden regions on the planet - and write primarily about yourself. It's a pity, because when she does write about Bhutan, some of it is pretty good, and definitely evocative of the feeling of being there, but when she's writing badly, it's sentimental and not too convincing.
In fact, I'm not even going to waste my time writing more about it. There must be better books about Bhutan out there. I'm off to find them.
In fact, I'm not even going to waste my time writing more about it. There must be better books about Bhutan out there. I'm off to find them.
February 26, 2016
This could have been such a good book if only it hadn't been all about 'I, me, myself'. Thought I was settling to read an interesting account of life in Bhutan; turned out to be an insipid romance. Meh.
January 27, 2017
While the first half of the book got a little monotonous, the second half of the book was as captivating as it could get. Not just could I identify with the thoughts and emotions of the stories, the simplicity of the text resonated to a great extent.
August 3, 2021
Some of the descriptions of the author's job site were a bit tedious, but it was validating to experience pictures of daily life in this Himalayan kingdom through the eyes of someone who spent a great deal of time there. She expresses sadness that things are changing so rapidly, but I was there 10 years after she left and the architecture felt just as charmingly ancient, the people just as merry, the atmosphere still largely detached from technology, and the landscape just as breathtakingly beautiful as she experienced. There were still people toiling away on roadways, brick by brick it seemed; the process would likely take decades and a *few* more (cobblestone) paved roads wouldn't be a terrible idea. Although their king was not entirely perfect in matters of immigration, he was clearly beloved by his people, and was also, at the time of my visit, about to transform the government into a democracy. In the meantime, it seemed he had worked for decades to protect the culture, natural resources, and charm of this uniquely peaceful place.
June 21, 2017
Not high literature and not written with great or even good understanding of Buddhism or many other things but a reasonable attempt to write about her year in Bhutan from a personal perspective. Other reviewers have complained that the book didn't have enough about Bhutan but it isn't meant to be a travelogue. It is a memoir of time spent in an unusual and difficult place that is perhaps a little too sanitized but good enough to be worth picking up if nothing better comes to hand. My only real complaint is not finding out what became of Spud when she headed off out of the country. I guess she left him/her behind without a second thought. (Purchased at Education Book House, Kathmandu, Nepal)
April 23, 2019
2.5 star
I am a physiotherapist and recently returned from travelling in Bhutan (for pleasure, not as a physio); thus, I thought I would find this book riveting. Unfortunately, I did not… and this is not to take away from the author's experience there - however, while it is great that she chose to share her experiences, I did not feel that her writing style captured my attention as much as it might have. However, the book does do a great job of describing the countryside and customs of these wonderful people and certainly gives one a glimpse into how the Bhutanese live. So, congratulations to the author for sharing.
I am a physiotherapist and recently returned from travelling in Bhutan (for pleasure, not as a physio); thus, I thought I would find this book riveting. Unfortunately, I did not… and this is not to take away from the author's experience there - however, while it is great that she chose to share her experiences, I did not feel that her writing style captured my attention as much as it might have. However, the book does do a great job of describing the countryside and customs of these wonderful people and certainly gives one a glimpse into how the Bhutanese live. So, congratulations to the author for sharing.
July 12, 2020
Fysiotherapeute Britta Das gaat voor 1 jaar naar Bhutan om daar te gaan werken. Ze leeft samen en met de gemeenschap waar ze de enige Westerse is. In het begin moet ze wennen aan de manier van leven welke zo zijn beperkingen heeft in Bhutan maar al snel vind ze hierin haar weg en sluit ze Bhutan en de mensen in haar hart.
Het is echt geschreven als een soort reisverslag. Je volgt Britta in wat ze meemaakt in Bhutan. Ik vond het mooi om te lezen hoe ze groeit in haar leven. Wat mij ook erg aansprak waren de stukken over het boeddhisme. Dit is iets wat mij al jaren aanspreekt en was dan ook erg interessant om meer over te lezen.
Het is echt geschreven als een soort reisverslag. Je volgt Britta in wat ze meemaakt in Bhutan. Ik vond het mooi om te lezen hoe ze groeit in haar leven. Wat mij ook erg aansprak waren de stukken over het boeddhisme. Dit is iets wat mij al jaren aanspreekt en was dan ook erg interessant om meer over te lezen.
July 7, 2022
"Bhutan... is not Shangri-La, and yet it is a special place that casts a spell on most who have entered"
Britta travels to Bhutan to volunteer as a physiotherapist in a hospital. Through her experiences, we learn a little bit about life in a small town, the religious Buddhist rituals, the problems with the lack of water and electricity....
The year is 1997 and things have probably changed; in fact, one of Linda´s last reflections is about the destructive nearness of technology.
At the end of the book, there is a romantic twist to the story, when we read about Britta falling in love with an Indian doctor who works in the same hospital.
Britta travels to Bhutan to volunteer as a physiotherapist in a hospital. Through her experiences, we learn a little bit about life in a small town, the religious Buddhist rituals, the problems with the lack of water and electricity....
The year is 1997 and things have probably changed; in fact, one of Linda´s last reflections is about the destructive nearness of technology.
At the end of the book, there is a romantic twist to the story, when we read about Britta falling in love with an Indian doctor who works in the same hospital.
May 10, 2020
3.5 stars. About the author's year in Bhutan, the book is relatively straight-forward and easy to read, and some of the descriptions are quite well-written. It isn't particularly engaging though, and it can be hard to keep track of all the names of the people the author met in Bhutan. Still, it is a good read if you have been to Bhutan or are intending to travel there. For me, having been on a trip to Bhutan just the previous year, this book brings back fond memories of the time I spent there.
July 4, 2022
Had high hopes. Expected it to be a travelogue but it turned out to be more about life in a remote village of bhutan. Was not complaining about that either but the second half of the book is a lot more romanticizing of this relationship with bilkul...
* spoiler *
Bilkul ends up marrying her without her even knowing that she was getting married. An 'oh damn' moment. But it is what it is. A decent read but you are not missing anything by skipping it.
* spoiler *
Bilkul ends up marrying her without her even knowing that she was getting married. An 'oh damn' moment. But it is what it is. A decent read but you are not missing anything by skipping it.
March 21, 2020
I started reading this on a trip to Bhutan, and then when I got home I got busy and forgot about it. I finally finished it a year later, and it was nice to get a reminder of this beautiful country. I enjoyed the story, and it gave me an interesting perspective on the country and a look into a section of the country I didn't get to visit during my trip.
October 21, 2021
Disappointing. I recently read an amazing book about a Canadian who spent a year in Bhutan and I could not put the book down; this book was def not that. Despite a similar story, it was not as fast paced or interesting and it was hard to motivate to read the whole book page to page.
August 26, 2024
a memoir that reads like fiction. main writer annoyed me at parts but i did have to keep reminding myself it was the late 90s. I was intrigued by and felt involved in her love story and glad it had a happy ending!
July 3, 2018
Started it off really well! And as the story turned to her and a romance developing I decided to give it up. Would have rather heard about Bhutan and her interactions with the locals and culture.
May 17, 2019
A decent light read!
November 21, 2022
Maybe because I have gone through the places, and all I felt so familiar, the book is fairly very much simple. Not so mind attracting book though.
April 22, 2023
Good book to know about Bhutan but it felt like excerpts. I would have liked a little more. Still, was interesting to read.
December 13, 2023
Interesting account of a Western physiotherapist's year in a remote village hospital in eastern Bhutan. Captures the beauty of the country, kindness of the people, and daily challenges.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 46 reviews