A lively, often hilarious, and always warm-hearted exploration of Arabic language and culture, guided by a keen-eyed travel writer with twenty years of experience studying Arabic
I'm a travel and food writer, with a particular interest in languages and traditional cuisine.
I grew up in New Mexico, and now live in Astoria, Queens, in NYC. I chose the neighborhood because I hear so many different languages spoken in the streets, and I can buy fresh produce 24 hours a day.
For years, my main gig was writing travel guides. It has always been a pleasure to give a great restaurant recommendation, and have someone come back and tell me how much they love it.
My first travel memoir, All Strangers Are Kin, was published in 2016. It took me back to the Middle East, to study Arabic again--a lifetime project.
A travel memoir set in four areas of the Arabic World--Egypt, the Gulf, Lebanon, and Morocco--All Strangers are Kin explores the complexities of the Arabic language and the challenges of learning it, from Standard Arabic to the spoken Arabic of the street.
As someone who has traveled to all the places mentioned and has studied Arabic for years, I found the book to be a terrific read for anyone with an interest in travel, linguistics, the Arabic language, and the vast variations within the Arabic-speaking world. Highly recommended.
It is true that the only way to become fluent in a foreign language is to spend time amongst native speakers in their own land and that to truly understand and appreciate the people and culture of another country you need to be able to speak their language. In this book, the author seeks to expand her Arabic studies through sojourns in Egypt, Lebanon, the Arabian Peninsula and Morocco and in the process also finds insight into the places she visits through the differences in way the language has developed and is used in these places.
As an American who admits to very little understanding of the Arab world beyond the stereotypes and even less knowledge of the Arabic language, I found this book to be an eye-opening look at both. All great travel books depend on our being able to indentify with our guide. The best ones always leave me wishing I could tag along with the author on her next trip. This book accomplishes that in spades. O'Neill is a curious and daring traveller. She is so open to new experiences that at times I worried for her safety. Her desire to speak Arabic with the natives occasionally puts her in a position of having to deflect men's advances, which she does with great aplomb. She allows herself to be lead into strangers homes despite her own reservations. And she is mostly rewarded with the kind of experiences that give us, the reader, a view into these places that visiting monuments and taking tours never could.
Having zero knowledge of Arabic, some of the longer sections dealing with the nuances of the language went way over my head but did not lessen my appreciation for the book as a whole and many of the author's insights provide some of the funniest parts of the narrative.
My favorite section was the last one, her travels in Morocco, where 40 years before her parents had spent time as young hippies and where they met an independent young Moroccan woman for whom the author is named. When her parents join her for their first return visit to the country since the 60's the story becomes wonderfully personal and moving.
This is an exceptionally well-written travelogue, witty and wise, and I can highly recommend it to anyone, not just fans of travel books.
The long: I can't believe how much I related to the author. We both started studying Arabic in US universities around the same time (very early 90s), rejected academic study of the language for 3ameyya/colloquial, and we share a strong love for Cairo, warts and all. There were several times I felt like I was reading stories I could have written or reading about folks I could have met. She has had some great experiences and I liked her writing style very much. I highly recommend this solid book for language lovers in general, and Arabic language lovers and long time learners in particular. Both the vast and subtle differences between dialects and the level of lifetime learning Arabic takes will have you feeling less alone in the world!
What happens when a middle-aged woman from the US decides to try and master her limited Arabic by travelling around the Middle East to different countries, learning some of the ins and outs of each version of the language? A bit of chaos, a bit of confusion, and an interesting history lesson thrown in. In short, you have 'All Strangers Are Kin'.
This book was a bit of a toss-up for me in regards to the actual reading. The parts where the author emphasized so much of the language were slow and confusing - not a surprise, really, since the language is one of the more complicated ones. However, the parts where the author spends more time talking about the places, the people, and the history of the different locations were far better and are what kept me going throughout. She has an easy way of writing that really works in getting her story out. Frankly, I recommend skipping the second chapter in the Egypt section, because she seems to have gone on a word-bender...the rest is good to go.
Overall, while I'm not sure that I would really recommend this to many friends, it was worth the reading time simply to get a different perspective on the culture of the area, as well as the constant wars. For me, this would be a library book rather than a purchase.
One of my new favorites. Funny and engaging. I already love Arabic, but this made the language all the more delightful. What a grand way to get a taste of the flavor of so many different Arabic-speaking countries. If you're not an Arabic speaker, this is a great- and needed- intro to a part of the world that sadly evokes fear in many Westerners. If you have ever been a student of Arabic, you'll get a kick out of her descriptions!
I came to this book through the NPR podcast The World in Words, and I'm so glad I read it. To a language nerd, the heartfelt hand-wringing over accuracy vs. connection is both familiar and delightful. The descriptions of popular culture, traditional language, and human connection in Arab cities are vivid and warm. I only wish it was available in audio so I'd know how to properly say many of the phrases I read.
A fun and highly informative tour through several stops in the Arab-speaking world. O'Neill introduces us to many compelling characters in Egypt, the UAE, Lebanon, and Morocco. Along the way she provides plenty of insight into (transliterated) Arabic that was fascinating even for those of us who know no Arabic.
O'Neill's journey is personal as well, and we learn a lot about her through some moving passages about her family, her struggles with Arabic, and her navigation through the Arabic-speaking world as a (frequently) solo female traveler. This is a wonderful book!
I love this book. Her journey to discover the nuances of a foreign language and become fluent in a language with as rich a history as Arabic is wonderful. The humor, the danger and the overall insights provided into the Muslim culture through its language is fascinating. If you are a word nerd as I am, you will be enthralled and amazed by zora's adventures.
I have been wanting to read this book for a whille. For one, i love Travel Memoirs and two, i have an interest in the Arabic language. This covers Zora O'Neill's travels to Egypt, United Arabic Emirates, Lebanon and Morocco. Zora starts in Egypt, where the dialect is very different from words that are used in other Arabic dialects. Next she travels to the United Arabic Emirates, where they are very wealthy and like to make it known. Maids attend to the homes and there is an awful lot of the sex trade going on. This is where the locals manage in life and foreigners have to do the work. Next up is Lebanon, here she meets people who have been victimized by landmines left over by the civil war. Lastly she goes to Morocco, this was my favourite part in the book. Here is where her parents lived as hippies before she was born. And her parents join her for their first return visit to the country since the 1960's. There were areas of the book that goes into a lot of detail about the history of the various countries which i found at times very mind boggling and not exactly interesting because i wanted to read more about Zora's actual trip, what she did, what she saw, who she met, what she ate and i wanted to read more about the sights and sounds to get a real feel of the places she was in. We get a lot of information about the Arabic language, including words thrown in throughout. I think this would only appeal to you if you have used or learnt Arabic. There are parts we learn from Zora about living in an unfamiliar culture and opening herself up to some situations good and bad. Arabic is an amazing language to learn, but at times Zora seemed self conscious to use it and she found it difficult initiating conversations. But she did well and i think that is part and parcel of expressing a new language that you have learnt. The Arabs love that you have taken the time and effort to learn or pick up the language, so never be afraid to give it a go.
All Strangers Are Kin is a fascinating book about travel, as well as the logistics of the Arabic language. Throughout the memoir, the reader comes to understand Zora and why she is motivated to travel the world. Zora discusses the nuances of Arabic and its many dialects and colloquialisms. By the end of the book, the reader understands that, through her travels, Zora not only better understands the Arabic language, but now better understands the breadth of the human experience.
As someone who has not studied Arabic, I think that an audiobook version would have benefitted me in understanding the struggles and successes of Zora in regards to the dialects and vocabulary . I found myself skimming over the paragraphs that were filled with phrases and explanations of sentence structure because of my unfamiliarity with the language.
Loved this book! O'Neill expressed the same frustrations and challenges that I have gone through trying to learn Arabic, and yet interwoven are the warm people she dares herself to meet, as she travels alone throughout the Middle East. Very brave, and very insightful!
This is a most unusual, beautifully written, memoir. At the age of 40, the author's desire to learn more about the Arabic language led to her taking a year-long trip to four different Arabic-speaking countries. Highly recommended!
I really enjoyed reading about the authors adventures and misadventures in learning Arabic and different dialects. As someone living in Morocco and struggling daily with Darija, this was comforting. I hope I can take the advice of just winging it but also asking clarifying questions when necessary
OK, I'm a language nerd. I love learning about different languages and their history. Zora tells a fascinating story from a perspective rarely explored when visiting the Middle East. Very refreshing and entertaining.
I expected Zora's "grand tour through the Middle East" would, for the most part, sweep the reader up with cultural experiences peppered with the odd reference to language and vocabulary. But what a delight that the converse was true. Zora does recount her experiences but her real skill lies in her ability to delve surprisingly deep into the nuances of the language. Her frustration between the classical and popular languages had me equally disheartened until she abruptly turned the whole matter on its head. This language is dynamic and her fearless leap into dictionaries and poetry and regional paradoxes was impressive.
If you're looking for a casual travel narrative, you may find yourself in a vernacular daze muddling through the vast number academic passages. But if you're a lover of language, be delightfully warned: This book is a steady stream of language analysis; and if that's your thing, this is your book.
I liked a lot about this book - for instance, the author is older (40) when she goes on her travels, and though she's mostly alone while traveling, she's married, so there aren't any sexual escapades which seem standard in so many other travel memoirs.
O'Neill accurately describes the highs and lows of language learning, including the fact that it's just plain exhausting, which is something so many people (non-language learners, mostly) don't understand. I also appreciated (and agreed with) her assertion that there's a certain advantage to learning a language as an adult - namely, because you're more confident in who you are and more willing to make a complete fool of yourself, which is a prerequisite for the speaking practice needed in language learning.
She goes into a lot of detail about the Arabic language/dialects, which was interesting at first but, since I've decided not to learn it myself, did seem like overkill and I definitely didn't get all the jokes, even with her explanation.
It was a bit on the long side. There were no chapter numbers, just headings, which is a big pet peeve of mine.
God's name was misused. The author also describes herself and others as "Christian" in the sense that they come from Christian-influenced, western nations (rather than holding Christian beliefs) which was rather confusing. I thought that could have been handled better.
I first picked up this book years ago when I was in a travelogue phase, but it somehow got lost in the shuffle.
Fast forward many years and it randomly popped up on my mind. After some intense searching with the help of a colleague, I found it and was again launched into the world of language learning, this time in Arabic.
Zora's reverence for the Arabic language brings this books and the worlds she describe to life. I am there, in the dust covered streets with the tour guide who loves puns. Or the woman whispering a secret on a rooftop. Or even on the speedboat to the bar with the uncle that reminds you of James Bond. All of this happens in one book, and not disjointedly. I swear, I can smell the heat, sand, and exhaust.
God, it's such a good book. If you love language, culture, and travel, you will love this book.
This started out as a 3.5 stars and degraded to 2.5 stars....
Loved the premise - - exploring a region through its language dialects, looking at similarities or the vast differences in various Arabic countries, both linguistic and cultural, through the specific lens of this American female author.
Part memoir, part linguistic history, part travelogue, this book works on many levels for a while. But after a while, the heavy emphasis on a language that I know nothing about it more of a slog to get through than something I was enjoying or learning from. Because I have no background in Arabic, I had no starting frame of reference for the vocabulary and grammatical detours she would take in each country. There was a lotttttt of very specific, very detailed examinations of dialect-specific words or syntax or pronunciation, and when you have zero context for how a language sounds, this can become soooooo tedious.
The memoir portion of it also never really took off, imo. Usually, memoirs are framed around a traditional narrative arc, with one or more characters learning and growing. While the author definitely experiences and demonstrates growth in her approach to learning an insanely complex language, I didn't feel much of an emotional connection to her or her journey, and never really felt it climbing to a natural climax. When she wraps up at the end, kind of summarizing her journey, I could see how she did address this arc, but I think it was too subtle to keep me engaged.
I do have a better understanding of Arabic as a whole, but I can't recall details about any of the country-specific dialects. It was just too in thr weeds and needed to be a bit more broad in its approach to the language aspect of the story.
Would recommend this for super labgaue nerds or anyone studying Arabic.
I absolutely loved this book. I love languages and linguistics. Although I did not intend to read this book at this particular moment (I am currently attempting to read all the books on the SC Librarians Association book award nominee lists for middle grades and high school), after mistakenly checking the kindle version out from the library, I went ahead and read it. Devoured it, is more like it.
Although I do not hold a strong desire to learn Arabic, I possess an intense desire to become more fluent in Spanish, a language which I have dubbed my "heart language." To read this book while on vacation in Spain? The word "serendipitous" comes to mind.
Although O'Neill's chronology could use some work differentiating for the reader between what happened on her previous study abroad trips to these areas and what happened on the trips taken for the express purpose of writing the book (the reason for four stars instead of five), I loved this book. I could nearly feel her passion for the language and every other emotion she felt on this journey ooze out from the pages. I seriously want to undergo intensive study in Spanish now. Maybe two summers from now?
I highly recommend this book, especially to all the language lovers out there.
Loved this book. The author tells the story of her travels in 4 different areas of the Arab world in order to study Arabic and the dialects spoken in these regions. She had studied Arabic in college and was now wanting to learn more about this fascinating language. Her travels are interesting but also of interest is what she learns about the language and its grammar and usage in these various regions. She first goes to Egypt, then to Dubai, next to Lebanon and finally to Morocco. There is a lot of detail on the language, pronunciation, word use, etc. If you like to read about travels in the Middle East and/or are interested in the Arabic language, this is the book for you.
Zora is a friend of mine and she never ceases to amaze me. This memoir is very conversational and funny and really takes you along for the ride on her adventures; so much so that at times I found myself wanting to say: "No Zora! Don't go with that person. What are you thinking?" It is deliberately and refreshingly anti-political and just presents the people she has met as ordinary people who happen to speak and pray differently from myself. What a joy!
As a language teacher and learner, I enjoy reading about other people's experiences with studying foreign languages. Who knew there were several variations of Arabic? This woman's experience was like a learner of English going to the UK, the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand in one year to learn to speak English. How confusing would all the slang be? If you like languages, this is a very fun book.
It shouldn’t have taken me this long , I just had no reading time. I really loved this book. In some ways her journey with Arabic is mine with Spanish or Japanese. Some words are just us. I love how her journey came full circle with an understanding that language learning doesn’t need to be perfect as well as bringing her parents back with her.
I got halfway through this book and then had to stop because this book lacks heart and spirit. I kept waiting for the author to unpack some of the racial politics of travelling through the middle east, but she never does, and that was disappointing. Overall, this book lacked life.
To make people laugh in a foreign language. What a wonderful life goal! Languages all have their personalities--and so in many ways when you switch languages you become another person.
I had read about Arabic, as well as Farsi, having their high and low literary and colloquial tongues. I also knew that there are many "Arabics"-- so a person would study Egyptian or Syrian --or Moroccan-- and while they’re related, they are not mutually comprehensible. I knew this as facts but it was only in this book where I got to really understand what that means.
The author is a brilliant storyteller and a genuinely great person! A wonderful ambassador to the world, I was thinking. her story is a scene-driven super fun travel memoir. Somehow she makes the intricacies of Arabic--what makes it hard?-- come alive on the page mainly by showing it in her great scenes. So reading entertaining stories you realize how much the Ottoman empire influenced vocabulary or how much Egyptians like to joke around. Also how Moroccans "hear" Egyptian. I actually felt my eyes fill with tears reading one scene where a family suddenly called her over to join in their picnic out in front of the museum in Cairo-- it was such a spontaneous act of hospitality and O'Neill had the grace of the perfect guest to plop down and join them. I also loved the scene on the bus in Lebanon when she meets a Druze lady who spent a lot of time in Chicago. They talked about life in America and her religion... the next morning O'Neill gets a text message that reads: "Hi baby".... as a translator and twenty-year expat (Japan), I thought this was one of the greatest language memoirs and reminded me a lot of the struggles involved in always being a student--even in her forties.... and to just keep going. The ending when her parents join her in Morocco was the perfect ending... from her beloved Egypt to the Gulf to Lebanon and finally where her fascination began with her parents in Morocco this was a great read!
Being a non-native Arabic speaker and picking up Egyptian Ammiya from holidays spent visiting family in Egypt over the span of 15 years, I envied my few and far-between Arabic teachers and their complete command of the Arabic language. All being able to switch from dialects to Fusha and Ammiya Al Muthafiqeen - all without so much as a second thought. In fact, some Arabic teachers and Arabic-speaking colleagues would enjoy switching into Ammiya for me to make me laugh or tease me. Seeing them having to concentrate to 'dumb down' their Arabic to meet mine would make me wince a little on the inside, for not having learnt a 'better' or more 'sophisticated' dialect that was close to Fusha - like the Syrian dialect, for example.
Zora's experiences were my lived experiences, although all within the context of family and sometimes new friends. Visiting a stranger's house for lunch and having them insist you take a nap, Arabic teacher's tssk'ing at me and providing me with the preferred words to my self-taught Ammiya and forever learning that a word I know has several different meanings and can change from a compliment to an insult with the slightest emphasis or intonation on a particular vowel.
Accompanying me in any and every bit of down time, Zora kept me company with her sense of humour, hilarious observations and dramatic scenarios she would make up in her head - 'I had convinced myself I was sleeping in Bitissam and Yacine's recently deceased daughter's room'. Some characters will stay with me - Houria, Tony and his overbearing Dad, and the extremely polite and refined Si Mohammed. Others, I've come across my own versions of and resembled strangers I too have maybe met.
If I've learnt one Arabic word from this wonderful book, it's the very useful - niswangi.
Since 1996, I've had an interest in the Arabic language. At first, I was fascinated by the script but now I am fascinated by the "root system" and word formation! About ten years ago, I started learning it. Needless to say, it has been an adventure & a challenge. Though I have not been to all the places the author has visited, I could relate to her adventures & her frustrations in language learning. This memoir gives a glimpse into the "real" Arab world where preconceived perceptions of politics and religion dissipate and where genuine connection happens. It's entertaining and meaningful. Thanks, Zora, for sharing your engaging stories. I could identify with much of what you shared!
Most relatable quotes: "Yacine had chanced his house wardrobe that day too. Instead of the his usual undershirt, he had donned a frayed white tee that read, in a sort of eye-chart layout: I CAN'T SAY WHAT I'M THINKING RIGHT NOW During the many lulls in conversation, I read and reread this message. Yacine had given me the motto of my entire Arabic-learning life."
"In Morocco, I had learned - relearned; I was always relearning - that Arabic didn't have to be a looming concept, a complicated choice between dialects and formal structures, a vessel of scripture or poetry, a reflection of my whole self image. It could simply be a way of creating a connection. 'Moroccans will always cross the bridge,' Si Mostafa said, characterizing the effort required to communicate in some form of Arabic or another."