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High Infatuation: A Climber's Guide to Love and Gravity
* A collection of vivid, intimate essays and prose poetry on the universal themes of life, love, friendship, personal empowerment, and more, told through a career in climbing
* 40 percent of these pieces debut here for the first time
* Davis has been profiled in publications including Outside, Men's Journal, W Magazine , and Sports Illustrated .
Throughout her life, Steph Davis has chosen to take risks, to trust her impulses, to make decisions based on what feels right inside -- and never look back. Studying to be a concert pianist, she quit music the day she was introduced to rock climbing. Later, she abandoned the respectability of university life and pursuit of a law degree to become a "dirtbag climber," living out of her grandmother's hand-me-down Oldsmobile sedan with Fletcher, a heeler mix dog. Today, through courage and perseverance, Davis is a high-profile athlete whose sponsors have included Patagonia, Mammut, Clif Bar, Five Ten and Cascade Designs.
In High Infatuation , Davis writes on the universal themes of life, love, friendship, personal empowerment, and more, told through a career in climbing. We wait with her in the tent through weeks of rain, wind, snow, and sleet, hoping for the weather to improve in the mountains of Patagonia, then race with her up a towering rock wall of Yosemite's El Capitan in a single day. More than adventure stories, these pieces reveal Davis' soul. They draw us into her struggles with safety, independence, ambition, and compassion. By following the journey of this remarkable woman, we learn what it means to live a truly adventurous life.
* 40 percent of these pieces debut here for the first time
* Davis has been profiled in publications including Outside, Men's Journal, W Magazine , and Sports Illustrated .
Throughout her life, Steph Davis has chosen to take risks, to trust her impulses, to make decisions based on what feels right inside -- and never look back. Studying to be a concert pianist, she quit music the day she was introduced to rock climbing. Later, she abandoned the respectability of university life and pursuit of a law degree to become a "dirtbag climber," living out of her grandmother's hand-me-down Oldsmobile sedan with Fletcher, a heeler mix dog. Today, through courage and perseverance, Davis is a high-profile athlete whose sponsors have included Patagonia, Mammut, Clif Bar, Five Ten and Cascade Designs.
In High Infatuation , Davis writes on the universal themes of life, love, friendship, personal empowerment, and more, told through a career in climbing. We wait with her in the tent through weeks of rain, wind, snow, and sleet, hoping for the weather to improve in the mountains of Patagonia, then race with her up a towering rock wall of Yosemite's El Capitan in a single day. More than adventure stories, these pieces reveal Davis' soul. They draw us into her struggles with safety, independence, ambition, and compassion. By following the journey of this remarkable woman, we learn what it means to live a truly adventurous life.
190 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2007
50 people are currently reading
1172 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 91 reviews
June 13, 2013
I loved this book! For such a short book it was a long read. Her writing is spacious, and every word counts. I was pausing a lot to take in her stories and reflections. She spoke to safety and the unknown really beautifully. As a female climber, a lot of the things people say to deter people from climbing "oh it's really dangerous" get augmented by how society places a lot of protection around women, protection that can be really limiting to our growth and new experiences. She talks honestly about the risks of climbing, but also wholeheartedly about her ongoing relationship with it. This book also really broke a lot of boundaries for me in terms of who the "real" or "good" climbers are. She acknowledges how difficult climbing is for her, mentally, physically, and emotionally, so now I avoid putting other climbers up on pedestals. The way her motivation and reasons for committing to the sport changed over time has helped me see that our relationship to climbing can change, and we can just meet ourselves where we are with the sport. Without spoiling the end, she kind of starts over in an amazing humbling way. I loved the mixture of climbing, philosophy, and human appreciation in this book. It was also cool to see her stories in more alpine areas and on big walls. Read it! Read it!
December 16, 2010
Finished the book in 24 hours; a very fast read. I actually met and climbed with Steph at Carderock in MD when we were both students (new climbers and in colllege) at the U of MD, before she moved CO to pursue climbing and finish undergrad. That was a long time ago! She was super fun and I am still amazed by her especially after reading her book. She is so much fun, so smart, engaging, and is an absolute joy to climb with! I suppose I'm biased, but I thoroughly enjoyed this book and so did my husband. ;-)
July 8, 2024
Awe inspiring and totally badass!!! I love seeing women pave the way fearlessly and humbly in the outdoor community. Such a quick and engaging read!
August 23, 2025
Finished this while having an insanely sprained ankle from a climbing fall, feeling so inspired and can’t channel the energy rn
April 11, 2011
I was in Pakistan in 2000 when I learned that Steph, Dean and Jimmy were climbing just a few valleys over. She wasn't married at the time so of course I wrote her a note, handed it to my porter who passed it along to her porter. That's as close as I ever got. haha.
The book is a good read. It's rare that I'll read a book in one day but I did with this one. It was differently paced, the flow was somewhat random, but in that it seemed poetic and a bit like a climber.
What I liked the most was the way that Steph described some of her own self-doubts, thoughts of others and how she overcame those internal voices. I like that she incorporated her spiritual longings and hope she finds that still small voice in the swirl of the many others she mentioned.
The book is a good read. It's rare that I'll read a book in one day but I did with this one. It was differently paced, the flow was somewhat random, but in that it seemed poetic and a bit like a climber.
What I liked the most was the way that Steph described some of her own self-doubts, thoughts of others and how she overcame those internal voices. I like that she incorporated her spiritual longings and hope she finds that still small voice in the swirl of the many others she mentioned.
February 12, 2013
This book doesn't much live up to its title and tag line. It's a disjointed collection of stories SD wrote for climbing magazines, with some vaguely-connection making biographical stories in there as well. The stories are interesting enough, but the whole thing has this pervading sense of superficiality. Things happen that seem to bear some serious reflection, and maybe that reflection happened in life, but the journey isn't on these pages. Overall it feels like a rushed job, collect the pieces, fill in blanks with a thin biography, and just pack some words behind an awesome title/subtitle and public persona. Disappointing.
August 21, 2025
High Infatuation is a series of essays interspersed with poems. It is memoir. It is self-indulgent remembrances, pointed social commentary, and breathtaking nature writing. It isn’t overly polished which lends it a DIY flavor - a perfect container for these particular ramblings. It often feels like reading an actual journal, complete with poetic musings. I know nothing about climbing and have no interest in ever attempting even the most basic wall and yet I stayed glued to Steph Davis’ words from beginning to end. There is something fascinating about hearing other people share their obsessions. I have suggested this to several friends who climb but I think it would also appeal to anyone, like me, who is content to live this type of adventure vicariously. Thank you to the author, Kendra Scarlavai for the natural narration, Tantor Audio, and NetGalley for the audioARC.
September 6, 2023
This book made me want to climb so much more and see so much more. Steph is a really great storyteller and conveys the confusing and intense relationship I and I know others feel about outdoor sports. Her anecdotes about feeling contradictions, her dog, fear, are relatable and touching. Her revelation at the very end about feeling like being so driven was/could be in contradiction to some of her proclaimed philosophies… that was interesting to me. It made me pause and think, and i wish she talked more about that. Beautiful story i found it really inspiring.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
March 24, 2020
A tale of a bad ass female reaching for her dreams and evaluating the meaning of life through climbing.
May 12, 2025
solid book, nice and entertaining. only criticism I'd have is she definitely has the white gaze goggles on big time. also Goodreads, please start capitalising my sentences. that's not me anymore!
January 27, 2018
SIGH! 😍
Great writing. Dreamy, introspective, technical, straightforward, gritty, honest.
Great writing. Dreamy, introspective, technical, straightforward, gritty, honest.
July 8, 2016
Although Davis's achievements are a triumph for white women in this male-dominated field, she fails to consider the anglo-centric and privileged position from which she views and comments on different cultures and people she encounters on her climbs. There are many instances where she projects her gaze onto or makes false assumptions about individuals and customs, and was not critical to correct these preconceived notions or to deliver to readers a balanced and ethical account of her experiences with them. For example, Davis describes Jushua, an Inuit, as "almost like a wild animal indoors" until he enters the 'natural environment' which Davis has drawn out for him in her mind. Jushua then ceases to be an animal, but an "alpha male", "a cross between a cowboy and a Harley rider" upon entering the environment alien and cold to Davis but which she imagines is the only place where Jushua 'naturally' belongs to. He is anything to her but himself. Her other trips, whether to Kyrgysrtan or Pakistan, are also filled with problematic accounts of its people and landscapes. The individuals are never as fully human as she is in her stories. She neither sees nor regards them. They are only around for Davis's use, for the conquering and naming of foreign landscapes, that serve as a projection of herself once she begins scaling their heights.
September 26, 2012
Great read. I really liked that she didn't try to dumb down the language of climbing like so many climber-authors do to try to reach a wider audience. I really felt like this was written unapologetically for other climbers who will understand her emotions and actions.
September 5, 2011
An amazing life.
August 8, 2024
It has taken me a long time to get through this book, but not for a lack of quality content. Rather it's the opposite, each story is so packed with experiences and sometimes almost poetic reflections, that I have always had to pause after each and really take it in. As I found this book in my book case again after a year or so since reading it last, I will have to reread the earlier chapters to take in the whole before making my full judgements. But as my memory serves me I have truly loved this book. The raw openness about the ever changing relationship to climbing and life. I do truly wish there was more of a conclusion to the themes brought up in the last chapter, or maybe more debating, but as I find myself in my late twenties, a lot of life is not so definitive. Life is more like a long series of open ended questions with no clear answers and all we can do is try to navigate them as best we can. As such, I love Steph's many open questions and themes she touches on in her short stories. No definitive answers, but reflections and feelings leading to her climbing achievements and journeys. I guess we could ask for more, and maybe especially more on the themes of love since it is in the title. But most of the time, life does not give all the answers.
Something I was truly surpised by, was how relatable many of Steph's perspectives were to me (a humble lower grade sport climber, that has only dabbled in trad and multipitch climbs). To me Steph is a legend, but she portrays herself exactly the way it is, including fears, doubts and the feeling of never catching up with the experienced climbers surrounding you. I truly hope she has taken some pride in her astonishing achievements since this book has been published, because to me and many other she is the one we look up to.
It's obvious to me why I love this book, as I feel I can go on and on about the themes brought up. I will limit myself at just one more rambling. The strange contradiciton of extreme selfishness and utter selflesness that is involved in climbing. Most of the time, to do a big project, a climber needs help from so many people. Food and water must be organized. A belayer is needed. Ropes and bags hauled. And climbers as a community I have always found to be so giving. Always helpful and excited for a day out. On the other hand, there is a lot of goal setting, and obsessing over personal routes or projects. You need to have the integrity to have your own goals and accept that sometimes they do not align with partners or friends. Steph for example can't rely solely on her partner or friends to help her with certain big projects, and seems reluctant to even raise the question sometimes. The balance here is so complicated I think and I relate to Steph as she seems to sadly have the female trait of not wanting to bother people too much. At the same time these projects are big asks, and you got to respect people's time and energy. Relationships in climbing can because of this feel hard as well, especially if you are not at the same level as your partner or friend. Who's preference is the deciding factor when planning a trip? How much is too much compromise? Is it rude to go off on your own projects for long stretches of time leaving your partner behind? Who should follow who in that case?
If you are looking for answers, I would say this is the wrong book. But if you are looking for more great questions about life and climbing, that will leave you reflecting on your own relationship with climbing and life, then this is the perfect book.
Something I was truly surpised by, was how relatable many of Steph's perspectives were to me (a humble lower grade sport climber, that has only dabbled in trad and multipitch climbs). To me Steph is a legend, but she portrays herself exactly the way it is, including fears, doubts and the feeling of never catching up with the experienced climbers surrounding you. I truly hope she has taken some pride in her astonishing achievements since this book has been published, because to me and many other she is the one we look up to.
It's obvious to me why I love this book, as I feel I can go on and on about the themes brought up. I will limit myself at just one more rambling. The strange contradiciton of extreme selfishness and utter selflesness that is involved in climbing. Most of the time, to do a big project, a climber needs help from so many people. Food and water must be organized. A belayer is needed. Ropes and bags hauled. And climbers as a community I have always found to be so giving. Always helpful and excited for a day out. On the other hand, there is a lot of goal setting, and obsessing over personal routes or projects. You need to have the integrity to have your own goals and accept that sometimes they do not align with partners or friends. Steph for example can't rely solely on her partner or friends to help her with certain big projects, and seems reluctant to even raise the question sometimes. The balance here is so complicated I think and I relate to Steph as she seems to sadly have the female trait of not wanting to bother people too much. At the same time these projects are big asks, and you got to respect people's time and energy. Relationships in climbing can because of this feel hard as well, especially if you are not at the same level as your partner or friend. Who's preference is the deciding factor when planning a trip? How much is too much compromise? Is it rude to go off on your own projects for long stretches of time leaving your partner behind? Who should follow who in that case?
If you are looking for answers, I would say this is the wrong book. But if you are looking for more great questions about life and climbing, that will leave you reflecting on your own relationship with climbing and life, then this is the perfect book.
December 11, 2021
High Infatuation is a booked intended for knowledgeable (female) climbers, and was lent to me by one. Seeing as I am not the intended demographic, I did not super enjoy this. Some of the stories (Pakistan, one day ascent of Free Rider, and Salathe) were decent. The less just seemed like your friend who does cool stuff was talking about cool things they'd done, but had no real reason for telling you them.
It didn't seem as if Davis had a real reason for writing this book. There was absolutely zero narrative arc in High Infatuation. This irked me immensely. For instance, she tells a story of being the happiest she's ever been after summiting Fitzroy with a guy named Phillip—after separating from her husband/climbing partner, Dean—and then the next story she tells is one of simul-climbing with Dean on Torre Egger, which she describes as the highest form of trust in a partner. Very poor editing!
Maybe if you know a lot about climbing, you could glean some powerful insights about how to choose a partner, persist through challenging climbs, and staying true to your love of the sport. However, as someone with a very passing interest in climbing, I drew no such pearls of wisdom.
2.5/5 stars
It didn't seem as if Davis had a real reason for writing this book. There was absolutely zero narrative arc in High Infatuation. This irked me immensely. For instance, she tells a story of being the happiest she's ever been after summiting Fitzroy with a guy named Phillip—after separating from her husband/climbing partner, Dean—and then the next story she tells is one of simul-climbing with Dean on Torre Egger, which she describes as the highest form of trust in a partner. Very poor editing!
Maybe if you know a lot about climbing, you could glean some powerful insights about how to choose a partner, persist through challenging climbs, and staying true to your love of the sport. However, as someone with a very passing interest in climbing, I drew no such pearls of wisdom.
2.5/5 stars
July 27, 2025
I enjoyed listening to High Infatuation by Steph Davis! I’ve only done bouldering at a rock climbing a few times, and it was interesting to listen to Davis’ memoir about how she got her start in climbing and her journey through belay to free solo and her adventures around the world. Connecting climbing to relationships was also another interesting perspective for the memoir.
Davis paints vivid descriptions of the landscape for the different locations she was climbing and also the reader can connect to her mindset while she was training and climbing. She shared a lot about her milestones and the challenges she faced along the way, including El Capitan in Yosemite as well as Yosemite, Pakistan, and Kyrgyzstan.
Davis presents climbing terminology very clearly and accessibly so that readers who have not climbed before can understand the world of climbing.
The themes of this memoir are not just applicable to climbing, but to things we are passionate about they bring us joy and how the everyday things have significant meaning.
Kendra Scarlavai was a great narrator as well. I would recommend this memoir. Thank you to Net Galley and Tantor Media for the opportunity to review this Advanced Listener Copy in exchange for an honest review.
Davis paints vivid descriptions of the landscape for the different locations she was climbing and also the reader can connect to her mindset while she was training and climbing. She shared a lot about her milestones and the challenges she faced along the way, including El Capitan in Yosemite as well as Yosemite, Pakistan, and Kyrgyzstan.
Davis presents climbing terminology very clearly and accessibly so that readers who have not climbed before can understand the world of climbing.
The themes of this memoir are not just applicable to climbing, but to things we are passionate about they bring us joy and how the everyday things have significant meaning.
Kendra Scarlavai was a great narrator as well. I would recommend this memoir. Thank you to Net Galley and Tantor Media for the opportunity to review this Advanced Listener Copy in exchange for an honest review.
September 10, 2024
I've been a bit intrigued by Steph Davis for a few years, from the few bits of information I knew about her: soloist, base jumper, desert lover. I saw this book in a climbing store, and having recently read Beth Rodden's memoir, I was very curious to hear about Steph's own journey through climbing.
Davis writes well, and her adventures are engaging stories. I liked how she talked about having strong emotions, and how they were both her greatest strength and greatest weakness. I felt like I never got to really know her, however. She comes across as relentlessly driven by ambition, but I never quite understand why. This book feels a bit caught between a traditional "badass climbing story" and a desire to go deeper into her thoughts and feelings. I found her characterizations of people from non-Western cultures to be somewhat superficial.
Overall, it was an enjoyable read. It would help to be familiar with climbing to read this book, as she uses a lot of technical language in her descriptions.
Davis writes well, and her adventures are engaging stories. I liked how she talked about having strong emotions, and how they were both her greatest strength and greatest weakness. I felt like I never got to really know her, however. She comes across as relentlessly driven by ambition, but I never quite understand why. This book feels a bit caught between a traditional "badass climbing story" and a desire to go deeper into her thoughts and feelings. I found her characterizations of people from non-Western cultures to be somewhat superficial.
Overall, it was an enjoyable read. It would help to be familiar with climbing to read this book, as she uses a lot of technical language in her descriptions.
December 26, 2019
This read had some breathtaking adventures and great reflections on them, on climbing in general. A lot of inspiring material that met me where I’m at as a new climber. I did struggle a bit with the way she describes some of the cultures she engaged with while climbing around the world; I’m not sure some of these perceptions could still be featured in outdoor publications now what with today’s context of the momentum behind DEI representation and changing how adventure communities engage with and acknowledge the lands and cultures where they explore, as well as their privilege in being able to do so.
It is nonetheless a beautiful book with stories I’ll remember. I love this quote: “I have to admit, when I first started climbing I assumed I was on a path and that eventually I would get ‘there.’ I loved that feeling. Now I am starting to discover that there is no ‘there,’ and there may not even be a path most of the time.”
It is nonetheless a beautiful book with stories I’ll remember. I love this quote: “I have to admit, when I first started climbing I assumed I was on a path and that eventually I would get ‘there.’ I loved that feeling. Now I am starting to discover that there is no ‘there,’ and there may not even be a path most of the time.”
February 4, 2018
This was a thoroughly enjoyable, thought provoking read. It’s a short book, that I wanted to tear through because it was so fascinating to get an inside peak into a climbers life. But because I found it so interesting, I purposely reigned myself in, slowing down my reading pace, in order to savor and really consider the stories. Life lessons could be gleaned from many (well, actually most) of the passages. That, coupled by the laser focus, determination, physically strength and mental fortitude displayed by this fascinating climber, resulted in an inspiring and thoroughly satisfying read! It also didn’t hurt that mountain adventure tales are my top choice literary preference! Thumbs up!!
September 29, 2019
This a collection of the author's essays on tough climbs around the world with many different partners including in Pakistan, Patagonia, Yosemite and Moab. She is very driven, committed and will do whatever it takes! Climbing and being on rock is her connection to the world and teaches her many lessons that range from going with the flow and not forcing an outcome to balancing this with the work ethic that makes a desired result. She is a role model for staying true to making success on one's own terms and recruiting much help along the way.
April 7, 2024
An incredible story told by Steph Davis of her journey rock climbing and what it means to her. It’s hard to rate an autobiography/pieces of work because it’s hard to rate someone’s life. I found the format of this book much different than other climbing books which was just not my personal preference but the substance of the stories were quite something. You learn what each climb means to her and how much effort she puts forth for herself. Inspiring as a climber myself, and another outlook I’d like to apply to my climbing.
July 22, 2025
Really enjoyed this audiobook.
This is a second release (I assume?) and really happy to have discovered it.
Even in the 90’s to early 00’s the sexism and misogyny in climbing and even traveling for sport is so clear in these essays. The sisters story horrified me, so much so I am glad their story made its rounds even through word of mouth.
You don’t need to know to much about climbing to read and follow her journey, but I’m glad I had a background knowledge bank to reach from.
The essays felt emotional, chaotic, and wild. Really cool 😎.
Thanks NetGalley for the ARC!
This is a second release (I assume?) and really happy to have discovered it.
Even in the 90’s to early 00’s the sexism and misogyny in climbing and even traveling for sport is so clear in these essays. The sisters story horrified me, so much so I am glad their story made its rounds even through word of mouth.
You don’t need to know to much about climbing to read and follow her journey, but I’m glad I had a background knowledge bank to reach from.
The essays felt emotional, chaotic, and wild. Really cool 😎.
Thanks NetGalley for the ARC!
December 30, 2018
Excellent book. It was refreshing reading an adventurous book from the perspective of a woman. But don't let that fool you either, Steph is a badass and her stories will leave you craving more. I also love her writing style. I totally feel like I am there. Beyond the amazing adventures, she also shares some valuable perspectives on life. I recommend this book to anyone seeking adventures (beyond your own), and to anyone looking to understand life a little better.
January 13, 2021
I cannot really describe why this book resonated with me so much.
It's not a continuous story. It's not a guide to anything. There isn't a red line. Many themes are touched upon. And yet I felt inspired and moved and I felt incredibly drawn to the mountains, as the author did (does). In some way this book feels like a dream I wish I could live in.
Maybe there is some kind of essence all of us who climb share which she captured.
It's not a continuous story. It's not a guide to anything. There isn't a red line. Many themes are touched upon. And yet I felt inspired and moved and I felt incredibly drawn to the mountains, as the author did (does). In some way this book feels like a dream I wish I could live in.
Maybe there is some kind of essence all of us who climb share which she captured.
December 15, 2022
This book was disjointed and often glossed over parts of her life and story that would otherwise provide some much needed context. That and she comes across as a selfish, self centered person who, despite acknowledging her shortcomings, never seems to be interested in personal growth outside of being a better climber. She's accomplished many amazing climbing feats but seems fine stepping on others to get there.
March 14, 2025
I really enjoyed this book. I wanted to find out what drives a person like this and what she feels is her purpose in life. And I guess at the root of it, she really enjoys existing, touching rock, feeling the sun, and petting her dog. A very simple existence. Apparently she also enjoys pain and suffering, because man... lots of no sleep and sleeping in snow caves and almost freezing or starving. I also think she is a very humble person who cares about other people. 10/10!
May 12, 2017
The writing was good; I felt like I was in the author's head. I only gave the book three stars, because I found it more technical than thrilling. I imagine if you were a rock climber, the book would be more interesting because of familiarity with the different locales and climbs. For me, it was an interesting peek into the rock-climbing world, but it wasn't a suspenseful adventure story.
May 16, 2020
Any one who climbs for more than just the physical sport of it should read this book. It covers a lot of Steph's climbing life, from early days in Colorado & Wyoming to the peaks of Patagonia, through the emotional struggle of life.
This book isn't really all about the climbing and doesn't need to be. Anyone should read this book.
This book isn't really all about the climbing and doesn't need to be. Anyone should read this book.
August 23, 2020
As a climber, I was very excited to read about Steph Davis's history and experience. She doesn't ever let you know her though. She'll tell you about her experiences but that's all you'll get. She won't explore her own infatuation with climbing, she won't give you a glimpse into her relationship with Dean Potter, and she'll leave you wondering why she even bothered to write a book.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 91 reviews