Winner of the prestigious André Simon Drink Book AwardThe first definitive reference book to describe, region-by-region, how the great wines of Europe should taste. This will be the go-to guide for aspiring sommeliers, wine aficionados who want to improve their blind tasting skills, and amateur enthusiasts looking for a straightforward and visceral way to understand and describe wine.In this seminal addition to the wine canon, noted experts Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay share everything they've learned in their decades of tasting wine. The result is the most in-depth study of the world's greatest wine regions ever published. There are books that describe the geography of wine regions. And there are books that describe the way basic wines and grapes should taste. But there are no books that describe the intricacies of the way wines from various subregions, soils, and appellations should taste. Now, for the first time ever, you can learn about the differences between wines from the 7 grand crus and 40 premier crus of Chablis, or the terroirs in Barolo, Champagne, and Bordeaux. Paying attention to styles, winemakers, soils, and the most cutting-edge of trends, this book explains how to understand the wines of the world not in the classical way, but in the modern way--appellation by appellation, soil by soil, technique by technique--making it an essential reference and instant classic.
There is no real reason to read another wine book, but I am glad that I gave in and spent some time with Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay.
The authors have a way of educating while challenging and entertaining: Here are three quotes from their discussion of the white wines of the Loire valley:
"Sancerre is the knee-jerk selection of people who don’t bother to engage with wine. It’s the same as saying, “I’ll have a Bud” or “Give me a gin and tonic” without bothering to look at a menu."
"QUESTION OF TASTE What are the differences between the tastes of Sancerre from limestone, silex, and Kimmeridgian marl?"
"The question is not just which soil type defines a vineyard, but how deep that soil is before the tips of the vines make their way into the tuffeau underneath. In general, heavier clay returns heavier, rounder wines with more fruit. A preponderance of clay and aubuis atop the tuffeau is what gives Vouvray its famous weight. It’s the presence of limestone in the vicinity of the vines’ roots, François Chidaine tells us, that slows Vouvray’s maturation of the grapes and allows vignerons to take them further in terms of richness."
The previous is characteristic of how the Atlas of Taste takes us around European vineyards. My father enjoyed German Riesling wines and that was the start of my enjoyment of them. But I found ways of honing that interest in this book. Take these observations for example:
"The path from sweet to very dry has not been without its stumbles. In their rush to return to dry wines, many producers forgot why sweetness was ever left in wines to begin with: to balance Riesling’s incredible acidity. The first several years of widespread dryness brought wines that were often undrinkably austere and acidic. Over time, German producers learned how to deal with that acidity. They’ve also learned that their regions and terroir have something to say. Dry wines are more natural fits in warmer places like the Rheingau, Baden, and Pfalz. In the cool Mosel, having a little more residual sugar to balance the elevated acidity makes sense."
"But the Trockenwelle has more than anything been a celebration and showcase for the brilliance of German winegrowing today. As famed producer Johannes Leitz tells us, “To make a dry Riesling is much more difficult than a sweet one. Much more. I always call dry wine ‘naked.’ Sugar provides a very nice cover to mask flaws and deficiencies in a wine.”"
When you decide that it is worth cultivating grapes on very steep slopes there are challenges and consequences: “(J)ust a few feet from a stone ledge overlooking a vertiginous free fall to the river over 650 feet below. Some parts of this vineyard reach a slope of 86 degrees, and to even approach the edge, with crumbly, slippery slate beneath your feet…”
In electronic form, I would want to carry this book with me while visiting some of the areas and specific vineyards cited. Others have pointed out one of the greatest shortcomings of this book: It is an atlas without maps. That’s not a deal-breaker for me, but if there is ever a second edition, I hope that this will be remedied. 4.5*
Don't be offput or intimidated by the word SOMMELIER in the title. If you have passion for and curiousity about wine, this book will become a new go-to reference. A big thank you to the authors!
An excellent book that was both a pleasure to read cover to cover, and no doubt a useful resource well into the future. I felt this was a great overview of our current wine moment and how we got here - shifting tastes and trends in the marketplace and among sommeliers, a backlash against the old world of the Parker palate, a preference for elegant wines that speak of place. In each region they cover, the authors do a great job of addressing the basic elements - geology, then the history of winemaking which tends to follow a common pattern: old traditions, devastation by war and phylloxera, followed by further declines due to urban industrialization, then mass production and its side effects, and revitalization by singular winemakers. Then discussion of each region is framed around visits and discussions with some of the most exciting winemakers, modern and traditional, who convey a sense of place and style. Throughout, the writing is clear and concise, defining harder topics like 'taste' and 'minerality', and going to great lengths to describe how the best wines of a given region should actually taste and what this sensation conveys.
As the title suggests, this book is directed primarily at Sommeliers, and provides a good overview of the classic European appellations. The viewpoint is decidedly terroir driven, and while acknowledging that factors other than location drive wine styles, chooses to focuses primarily on soils, and less on climate, winemaking and other factors that affect style. The introductory material does a good job of setting the context, noting the variety of factors that affect style and why the authors chose to focus on terroir. In the end, it is a concise and useful guide to the appellations it covers, benefiting from Rajat Parr's encyclopedic knowledge and exceptional palate, and from co-author Jordan Mackay's felicitous writing style (even if the descriptions of the wines began to seem repetitious by the end).
Hands down one of the most beautiful and aesthetically pleasing books I have ever read. A quintessential coffee table book, and I don't mean that as an insult.
Like many other reviews on here, I also wish there were at least a few maps included in a book title "Atlas of ___". Especially since so much discussion in this book is terroir-driven, it would have been nice to have some additional visual guides for that information. I instead had to settle for having Google Maps pulled up on my phone next to me while I would read each section.
That aside, there is a wealth of information contained within this book for the advanced wine drinker and fanatic. A granular view, with each section being extremely dense (there's a reason it took me 5 months to finish). This is not a book you can read in one go, and is instead one you have to pick up and put down and take bit by bit.
Very good guide to European wines and terroirs. My favorite part was the opening, where the authors outline their methodologies, the definitions of floaty wine tasting terms, and their general views on what separates a good wine from an outstanding one. I didn't enjoy the more travel guide aspects of the book (particularly the restaurant recommendations) and I found the in-depth discussions of specific estates to be beyond my level. I also thought the narrator was too spokesman-like, and could have been more naturalistic. But otherwise, I do recommend this book if it's what you're looking for, because I think it is executed well.
As a fan of wine who’s already been to many vineyard and also been a part of the process I enjoyed this book. The descriptions are detailed covering everything from the tastes and aromas, the history, the diffrent regions or type of grapes. Soo if you've ever wondered what makes some wines stand out,this book might be a good option for you.
Great book. However, for a book called "A Sommelier's Atlas of Taste," some basic maps would be helpful for people who aren't familiar with the wine regions discussed.
Rajat Parr is a rock star in wine circles. I went to a party he hosted at IPNC 2017. Blew my mind at how fun walking around with magnums of pinot could be. This is a master reference book.