Topic:
The story of the city we now call Istanbul spanning three millennia, from Byzantion’s semi-mythical origins as a Greco-Thracian colony along the Bosphorus circa the 7th century BC, steeped in legends of Argonauts and Homeric epics, with shifting allegiances between Athens, Sparta, Persia, Macedonians, and rival Roman emperors, to the city’s rebirth as Roman Byzantium by the 1st century AD and rechristening as Constantinople 300 years later as the New Rome, to its transformation into the cosmopolitan Ottoman imperial capital Konstantiniyye (alternatively, and later only, Istanbul), the seat of Europe’s longest-lasting caliphate, from the 15th century AD until the empire's disintegration by WWI, culminating in the modern Eurasian metropolis. The author tries (and largely succeeds in) constructing a unified and dramatic narrative of the city through this thick jungle of history.
I timed this book to coincide with my first visit to the country and city in 2019. I managed to get to the Crusades by the time I reached Turkey and finished the rest within a week of leaving. If you haven’t visited or don’t currently have plans to, it will be hard to resist after finishing this book. On a side note, I alternated between the audiobook and hard copy, about 60/40 breakdown as there many maps, illustrations, and pictures included.
Style:
The author, a fellow at Cambridge with a background in classical studies, is not only a fantastic writer, but an excellent narrator in the audiobook, fully embracing the theatricality of the rich oral history that has contributed to the myth and awe of Istanbul in all its incarnations, sometimes at the expense of actual facts (“rumor and gossip are often the drivers of history"). One of my favorite podcasts, Dan Carlin’s Hardcore History — whose epic three part “King of Kings” on the Achaemenid Persian Empire is a great companion to the first part of this book — has a similar sense of self-reflection on both the macro and micro: marveling in hindsight at the evolution of the city’s various rulers, communities, beliefs, and architecture without ignoring how contemporaneous day-to-day smells, tastes, superstitions, violence, and emotions informed (and were informed by) now-well known events. A few fun snippets include:
• the sacred ecumenical councils based in or near Constantinople which still form the foundation of today’s mainstream Christian beliefs, so fiercely debated that St. Nicholas a.k.a. “Santa Clause” was urinated on after punching the now-heretic Arius for denying Jesus as co-equal to God the Father;
• the Western Crusaders’ wholesale destruction, looting, and eventual partitioning of the diverse and culturally rich Byzantine city (so famous for wonders such as Emperor Justinian’s Hagia Sophia that the Arab Umayyads modeled the layout of their capital Damascus after failing to conquer the city and even the Chinese elite of the faraway Tang Dynasty buried themselves with imitation solidi coins from "the Fortunate City, Fulin”), a watershed moment which ironically helped usher in the Italian Renaissance via Greek migration; and
• the Ottoman victories and defeats in Europe through the end of WWI, the effects of which are still felt and remembered today (The Battle of Vienna in 1683 with the largest cavalry charge in history is chronicled extensively in Western art and literature, but often overlooked is the more ambitious but failed plan over a century earlier by Suleiman the Magnificent to grab not only Vienna but Italy with a fleet commanded by the famed admiral Barbarossa), which, combined with various earthquakes, plagues, comets, and visions, sparked recurring Christian and Muslim eschatological fears.
What makes this book exceptional is that, alongside this riveting narrative of armies, omens, and opulence (worthy of the popular fiction it has clearly inspired such as Game of Thrones or the Lord of the Rings), the author still finds time to be a travel writer and scholar. In addition to the dozens of maps and illustrations, a detailed thirty-page timeline of the city, and another sixty pages listing all the primary and secondary sources cited, the author visits abandoned sites of ancient Mediterranean battles and describes many relevant archaeological findings as far away as Britain and China. She even takes time to conduct a scientific experiment to confirm that the bronze Temple of Marneion built by Emperor Hadrian in 2nd Century AD Palestine was, as history records, actually torched to the ground with its worshippers some three hundred years later using oil, sulfur, and pig fat on the orders of the Empress Eudoxia at the behest of (now Saint) Porphyry of Gaza as retribution for the past persecution of Christians.
Organization:
This is a very dense 800 pages and 78 chapters, divided into 8 parts corresponding to different phases of the city’s history. Given its ambitious scope, this could have ended up another bland textbook, but the author adds plenty of zest to the many bite-sized chapters, structured more like an anthology of chronological essays/lectures on an array of topics, such as the presence and influence of Hippodrome chariot racing club hooligans, the elite Viking Varangian guards, Jewish refugees from Catholic Spain, rival Venetian and Genoese merchants, the mafia-like Janissary corps, powerful Anatolian and Ethiopian eunuchs, and the artistic and charitable female patrons, notably former-prostitute-teen-mom-turned-Christian Empress Theodora’s hospitals and legal reforms benefiting women and children and the various Christian-origin concubines of the Topkapi harem such as Hurrem, Nurbano, and Safiye who rose to the rank of Valide Sultan (“Queen Mother”) and were so powerful that the Europeans described the empire as ruled by “the Sultanate of Women.”
She also takes time to balance admiration of the past with reminders of the brutality and violence sadly common to every era. For example, the author opines that Constantine's deathbed conversion to Christianity (and the motivation for his mother Helena's pilgrimage to the Holy Land to retrieve relics) was perhaps, in part, atonement for ordering the execution of his son and second wife on suspicion of an affair. There are horrible tales of pagan Romans persecuting early Christians, Byzantines burning alive Christian Franks, Russians raping Circassians, Turkish mobs killing Armenians, nationalist Greek Christians attacking their Muslim and Jewish neighbors, etc. She doesn’t shy away from critiquing Orientalist fantasies of odalisques while still decrying the sexual slavery that led many women into harems with few options.
The author has added many parenthetical cross-references to different eras (e.g., foreshadowing Christian saints or Ottoman battles when describing events in Hellenic Byzantion and vice versa) to help bind the story and make these chapters easily reread/listened in any order.
Takeaway:
I loved this book. If you enjoy history or are already enamored with Istanbul, then this is an epic account of not only the city’s history but also a heritage across three continents. The closing of her book neatly sums it up: "To know Istanbul is to be cosmopolitan -this is a city that reminds us that we are indeed citizens of the world.”
There are a million things in this book that make for fascinating discussion and so many interesting tidbits of history that will leave you curious to investigate further. However, what’s really worth appreciating is the author’s creation of a coherent narrative of the city with recurrent themes across many different eras with rulers often antagonistic to each other. Each of the city's rulers (and inhabitants) were fans of its history and mythology, and were aware that possession of the World's Desire was a necessary part of their ambitions. One example is the legend of the fallen city of Troy, which the Romans considered their ancestral home, where Julius Caesar considered relocating Rome and both Constantine and Mehmed the Conqueror made pilgrimage as Rome's heirs, and stories of which were still carried in copies of the Iliad by WWI Allied forces at Gallipoli.
Not surprisingly, a lasting impression on readers will be what an enormous influence the Byzantines and especially the Ottomans had on both East and West. While certainly reminding the readers of Turkish possession of the Arab Near East and religio-cultural affinity with Persian Safavids and Indian Mughals (Mimar Sinan, the genius architect responsible for much of Istanbul's landscape, apparently had an indirect hand in the Taj Mahal's design), the author does emphasize the very Western gaze of the Ottomans, seeing themselves as "Renaissance princes" of Europe and the new Roman Empire. European history schoolbooks typically limit the Ottoman to a a military threat to continental Europe, leaving out the very normal cultural exchange that carried over from the Byzantines, often with the help of polyglot Greek dragomans. The Ottomans were more than just Orientalist tropes and scary villains. Da Vinci sought Ottoman patronage by designing a precursor to the Galata Bridge that was rejected (too advanced?) by Sultan Bayezid II who purportedly asked Michelangelo as he was getting ready to paint the Sistine Chapel. The works and travels of Lord Byron, Mozart, Pushkin, Delacroix, Florence Nightingale, to name a few, brought Constantinople to German, English, French, and Russian audiences. The Baroque influences on Dolmabahce Palace and the Ortakoy Mosque are apparent to anyone and testament to this unique European outlook even before Atatürk came along. Lumping all of this under "Muslims Empires," as my college Art History textbook did, is just plain silly.
Reading this around the time I visited Istanbul was especially cool, as the author has clearly walked every inch of the city. I would recommend a daytime boat ride up and down the Bosphorus and into the Golden Horn, which allows you to spot many of the events and locations she recounts.