What do you think?
Rate this book
Залишитися живим. Мої 14 восьмитисячників.
Гора за горою, експедиція за експедицією Райнгольд Месснер бере нас із собою на всі 14 восьмитисячників, на які він піднявся упродовж 1970–1986 років переважно невідомими маршрутами альпійським стилем. Зокрема подорожі, які знову і знову вчили його терпіти поразку: від трагічної експедиції на Нанга Парбат до Макалу та Лхоцзе. Екстремальні моменти своїх подорожей за межі цивілізації, які й досі важко собі уявити, Месснер аналізує у своїй захопливих дописах та вплітає їх в історію підкорення найвищих гір світу.
Формат - 150 х 210 мм
Тверда обкладинка
Формат - 150 х 210 мм
Тверда обкладинка
280 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1987
9 people are currently reading
783 people want to read
About the author
Reinhold Messner
202 books243 followersReinhold Messner (born September 17, 1944) is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from South Tyrol, often cited as the greatest mountain climber of all time. He is renowned for making the first solo ascents of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen "eight-thousanders" (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level). He is the author of at least 63 books (in German, 1970–2006), many of which have been translated into other languages.
Ratings & Reviews
Friends & Following
Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!
Community Reviews
Displaying 1 - 19 of 19 reviews
January 23, 2012
Reinhold Messner is perhaps the most remarkable human being on the planet. Without supplemental oxygen - and against the advice of physicians who feared that oxygen levels above 8,000 metres were insufficient for human survival - Messner ventured into the realm known to climbers as 'the death zone', trusting his own instincts rather than the unproven opinions of doctors. He became the first man to summit all fourteen of the world's highest mountains, the monolithic monsters that tower above 8,000 metres. Messner made several of his ascents solo, travelling light and climbing in his favoured fast 'alpine style'. He is a pure climber, the antithesis of the wealthy businesspeople who pay Sherpas to drag them and their supplies up Himalayan and Karakoran mountains. Reinhold Messner achieved his record-setting ascents under his own steam, which makes them all the more impressive. This book is Messner's first-person account of his legendary climbs. It also includes a wealth of climber's-eye photos that are nothing short of breathtaking.
November 18, 2012
To date, I've read Viesturs, Herzog & now Messner. The three, I hold in high regard as mountaineers and adventurers - though the three are incredibly different. Each has a unique writing style and a different voice in the telling of their exploits. Of course, Messner is read only through translation - and there is a certain art to translating that may not capture the original perfectly.
That said, I enjoyed the individual accounts of each of the 14 peaks as each read as a story in and of itself. However, at times, I had a hard time differentiating between expeditions, as Messner regularly had to make multiple attempts on individual peaks - and all expeditions were in part discussed under each mountain's chapter.
I admire his dedication to attempting difficult routes during the various seasons and attempting faster, alpine-style "assaults" as opposed to the previous norm of massive militaristic campaigns. However, Messner contradicts himself a few times by saying that individuals must place all of their own pro and ropes and break their own trails, then turns around and mentions using previously established ropes and (unapologetically) riding on the backs of an Everest expedition on his way up Lhotse - I'll not criticize this approach that is standard practice, but was disappointed in how cavalier he was about it, given all of his high talk on the importance of doing everything for yourself to build a proper relationship with the mountain and build an understanding of its unique personality.
Throughout the book, I did feel that he changed with experience - the more he climbed, the more he talked about caution, risk analysis and less about "survival instinct / ability" (which often came across as a sort of bravado about just coming though after taking risks that many other climbers likelywould have seen as unacceptable). He did seem to become more cautious with age / experience in the high Himalaya.
The closing of the book was particularly fascinating as it went into some depth on the issues with alpine fever and the commercialization / commoditizing of the 8,000ers and the manifold issues associated with having so many amateurs, that shouldn't be on the mountains in the first place, up there in such vast numbers.
In sum - it was a fascinating and real account from one of high-altitude climbing's most highly regarded adventurers.
That said, I enjoyed the individual accounts of each of the 14 peaks as each read as a story in and of itself. However, at times, I had a hard time differentiating between expeditions, as Messner regularly had to make multiple attempts on individual peaks - and all expeditions were in part discussed under each mountain's chapter.
I admire his dedication to attempting difficult routes during the various seasons and attempting faster, alpine-style "assaults" as opposed to the previous norm of massive militaristic campaigns. However, Messner contradicts himself a few times by saying that individuals must place all of their own pro and ropes and break their own trails, then turns around and mentions using previously established ropes and (unapologetically) riding on the backs of an Everest expedition on his way up Lhotse - I'll not criticize this approach that is standard practice, but was disappointed in how cavalier he was about it, given all of his high talk on the importance of doing everything for yourself to build a proper relationship with the mountain and build an understanding of its unique personality.
Throughout the book, I did feel that he changed with experience - the more he climbed, the more he talked about caution, risk analysis and less about "survival instinct / ability" (which often came across as a sort of bravado about just coming though after taking risks that many other climbers likelywould have seen as unacceptable). He did seem to become more cautious with age / experience in the high Himalaya.
The closing of the book was particularly fascinating as it went into some depth on the issues with alpine fever and the commercialization / commoditizing of the 8,000ers and the manifold issues associated with having so many amateurs, that shouldn't be on the mountains in the first place, up there in such vast numbers.
In sum - it was a fascinating and real account from one of high-altitude climbing's most highly regarded adventurers.
March 28, 2016
Mount Everest is often referred to as the “third pole.” After reading Reinhold Messner’s accounts of climbing every one of the 14 mountains in the world higher than 8,000 meters, I think the plural of “third poles” might be more appropriate. Messner was not the first to reach of the top of each mountain, but over the period from 1970-1986 he was the first to climb each one without the use of supplemental oxygen, ropes or securing rings and bolts. In “Alpine Style” he free climbed every wall with only the use of crampons and pickaxes. He was also the first to climb three "8,000ers" in one season, climb two of the peaks on one tour, and one in winter.
Over 16 years, Messner reached the peak of an 8,000er 18 times, of the 14 peaks, he accomplished four of them twice. Eleven times he broke off the ascents before reaching the top. The fact that he stuck with it is more astounding considering that his first two expeditions were also the most tragic. On his first, an ascent of Nanga Parbat in northern Pakistan, his brother Günther died on the descent. On his second, Manaslu in Nepal, two of his companions died after they became separated and tried to help others. Each of these experiences caused Messner to reassess his outlook. His future expeditions would be lean, relying on either single ascents or with one or two companions.
Messner traveled light, quickly and with zealous attention to detail. He was a pioneer not only in proving that humans could climb about 8,000 meters without supplemental oxygen, but also by often choosing the most difficult routes. Messner was the also among the first of the “entrepreneurial” climbers who financed expeditions through sponsorships with rights for films, books, and equipment, a target for many of his detractors.
The stories behind every successful ascent incredible, humbling adventures that demonstrate what people are capable of accomplishing. Although difficult to convey, one gets a sense of fears that can drive men to reach seemingly impossible goals. One learns about living as a partner with death, not living in fear of it. We see a man who is humble with prideful ambition, but never seems to let it lead him to foolhardy choices. We also see the end of an age, before great mountains became playgrounds for the privileged rich to hire teams to clear the way for them as they destroyed and littered the sanctity of the most holy, natural places in the world. This, together with the astounding photographs, makes a great story that deserves more exposure than just to those interested in the beauty and splendor of many amazing mountains and places that are inaccessible to most of us.
Over 16 years, Messner reached the peak of an 8,000er 18 times, of the 14 peaks, he accomplished four of them twice. Eleven times he broke off the ascents before reaching the top. The fact that he stuck with it is more astounding considering that his first two expeditions were also the most tragic. On his first, an ascent of Nanga Parbat in northern Pakistan, his brother Günther died on the descent. On his second, Manaslu in Nepal, two of his companions died after they became separated and tried to help others. Each of these experiences caused Messner to reassess his outlook. His future expeditions would be lean, relying on either single ascents or with one or two companions.
Messner traveled light, quickly and with zealous attention to detail. He was a pioneer not only in proving that humans could climb about 8,000 meters without supplemental oxygen, but also by often choosing the most difficult routes. Messner was the also among the first of the “entrepreneurial” climbers who financed expeditions through sponsorships with rights for films, books, and equipment, a target for many of his detractors.
The stories behind every successful ascent incredible, humbling adventures that demonstrate what people are capable of accomplishing. Although difficult to convey, one gets a sense of fears that can drive men to reach seemingly impossible goals. One learns about living as a partner with death, not living in fear of it. We see a man who is humble with prideful ambition, but never seems to let it lead him to foolhardy choices. We also see the end of an age, before great mountains became playgrounds for the privileged rich to hire teams to clear the way for them as they destroyed and littered the sanctity of the most holy, natural places in the world. This, together with the astounding photographs, makes a great story that deserves more exposure than just to those interested in the beauty and splendor of many amazing mountains and places that are inaccessible to most of us.
May 21, 2015
In 2015, I had the once-in-a-lifetime honor to meet Reinhold Messner in person, and also to attend one of his lectures. Like many others in the climbing world, I've looked up to Messner since the very first time I learned about his accomplishments, which those of us in later generations have no hope of replicating - only to look at them for inspiration. What struck me about Messner, and the thing I notice again and again whether it's by being in the same room with him, watching a video interview or reading a book like All 14 Eight-Thousanders, is that beyond being a supremely gifted climber, Messner was first and foremost a dreamer. Nothing that he did could have happened without a vision and the desire to make it happen. Sure, like all us, Messner was not flawless: at times proud, arrogant and in need of attention, Messner nevertheless always remained true to his core principles and to himself. Because of his complete dedication to preparing a climb and training for it, he was able to come back alive from all his extreme adventures and, not only that, far into his twilight years he continues to respond warmly to those seeking his wisdom.
The edition of this book that I read was published in 1988, only a few years after Messner ended his high-altitude career. His entire life Messner has had to fend off attacks from those who didn't understand what he was doing. The techniques, tools and philosophies we take for granted today are due in large part to him breaking down one barrier after another in the 1970s and 80s. However, the disappointment and bitterness from always having to prove himself not egotistical or irresponsible are palpable throughout this account, which features moving tributes from many mountaineering legends. Connecting everything is Messner's narrative voice, which, if you happened to hear him speak, is pretty much stream of consciousness, yet never imposing. Every time I read something by Messner I feel like I am there with him, reliving every climb. In doing so, I absorb his hard-won lessons not just about what is possible with the human body, but also how far the mind can carry each individual. To use one of Messner's most famous phrases, "murdering the impossible" begins with staying true to oneself.
The edition of this book that I read was published in 1988, only a few years after Messner ended his high-altitude career. His entire life Messner has had to fend off attacks from those who didn't understand what he was doing. The techniques, tools and philosophies we take for granted today are due in large part to him breaking down one barrier after another in the 1970s and 80s. However, the disappointment and bitterness from always having to prove himself not egotistical or irresponsible are palpable throughout this account, which features moving tributes from many mountaineering legends. Connecting everything is Messner's narrative voice, which, if you happened to hear him speak, is pretty much stream of consciousness, yet never imposing. Every time I read something by Messner I feel like I am there with him, reliving every climb. In doing so, I absorb his hard-won lessons not just about what is possible with the human body, but also how far the mind can carry each individual. To use one of Messner's most famous phrases, "murdering the impossible" begins with staying true to oneself.
July 2, 2018
Райнхольд Месснер – альпініст, який першим піднявся на всі «восьмитисячники» планети. А їх, на секундочку, чотирнадцять (!!!).
Однозначно, він був сміливим. Але разом з тим діяв помірковано. Райнхольд неодноразово спускався з гір, коли розумів (чи відчував?), що спуск не буде успішним. Так на одну з вершин він піднявся лише з четвертого разу.
Мене особливо вразило те, що автор після розповіді про кожну із експедицій додав найважливіші дати та історії сходжень на цю ж гору. Його критикували інші альпіністи та заздрили через популярність, люди, які ніколи не були на «восьмитисячниках» давали «цінні поради». Але він мав мету і впевнено рухався у її напрямку. А ще просто залишився живим...
Однозначно, він був сміливим. Але разом з тим діяв помірковано. Райнхольд неодноразово спускався з гір, коли розумів (чи відчував?), що спуск не буде успішним. Так на одну з вершин він піднявся лише з четвертого разу.
Мене особливо вразило те, що автор після розповіді про кожну із експедицій додав найважливіші дати та історії сходжень на цю ж гору. Його критикували інші альпіністи та заздрили через популярність, люди, які ніколи не були на «восьмитисячниках» давали «цінні поради». Але він мав мету і впевнено рухався у її напрямку. А ще просто залишився живим...
May 13, 2019
Reinhold is the icon for climbing world. This book about his "14 8000m " initiative is brief and well-written along with the mountain's history. I really like to idea of banning Oxygen cylinders in all 8000 m. This policy might be helpful to reduce tragedy in the mountains along with trash reduction. With the philosophy of Alpine climbing style only well prepared climbers will attempt a 8000m so less trash, less tragedy, minimum bottleneck in the popular routes and proper solitude in the mountains who want to experience mountains as is.
April 13, 2021
Reinhold Messner is one of the most accomplished mountaineers of all time and this is a classic book that summarizes his feat of being the first to reach the summit of all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. There are so many added features to his essays that enhance the reader's experience, including maps to visualize the placement of these peaks, graphics of the routes taken, and submissions by other climbers.
September 11, 2018
Did not finish reading it because (a) lack of time & (b) he is so caught up in himself, comparing his accomplishments to others, and defending his offences to others.
He is a very accomplished climber and I will eventually read it for the sheer fascination of the climbs, but I don't like him as a person.
He is a very accomplished climber and I will eventually read it for the sheer fascination of the climbs, but I don't like him as a person.
October 23, 2018
What he did: 5 - waw. Capable - and !!lucky!! man ..
Reading entertainment factor: 3 - I guess it also wasn't meant to be an entertainment, more a very compact description of how he climbed all 14 peaks ..
Reading entertainment factor: 3 - I guess it also wasn't meant to be an entertainment, more a very compact description of how he climbed all 14 peaks ..
July 15, 2022
Den förste att bestiga alla 8000 meters toppar utan syrgas.
May 17, 2025
Really loved the photography. Obsessed over the details of each mountain. Absolutely inspirational.
August 18, 2025
Reinhold Messner findet sich selbst so toll, dass es nervt
December 25, 2025
Ein extrem interressantes Buch für alle, die sich fürs Bergsteigen begeistern bzw. Die Berge faszinierend und schön finden.
June 5, 2012
What can you say about possibly the greatest Alpinist to have ever lived? That's he arrogant? That he went against the old saw: Old climbers and bold climbers but no old, bold climbers?
In 1975 Mesnner and Peter Habeler climbed an 8 KM high peak in 3 days. 3 days. By a new technical route no less of a peak which was climbed first by Americans taking a couple months by an easier route. OK, he did a couple 8 KM peaks before that starting with Nanga Parbat (a mountain few English speakers have even heard of) by the longest, tallest face on the Earth by somewhat traditional expedition means and Manaslu most non-climbers have never heard of it either. These are men who did an Eiger original route in 10 hours (a 17 hour ascent had happened decades earlier). And Messner soloed a ice face in the Alps which took people 2-3 days in 8 hours.
So many people predicted Messner's demise, it got very boring. And the number 14 is twice the George Miller magical number 7 plus or minus two (for people who study attention and cognition). Few people could name all 14 peaks. So I think the average reader can be excused if they get a little fatigued reading this book. Messner climbed each of the 14 8 KM peaks in chapters whereas other climbers wrote entire books (to help defray expedition cost) Messner descended and go to the next 8 KM peak (a couple, like Everest, he did more than once), oh, and also he climbed all these peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. How could he really afford the expense of all this? Oh, he doesn't have to pay for supplemental. Sorry to say that along the way he alienated his seemingly perfect partner in Peter Habeler as well as his beautiful wife.
Messner completely studied all available literature on these mountains. He does his homework. Yet he has to make editorial decisions on what to write. The maps are reasonably well done. The English language translation is OK. If you think his writing is clunky, blame his translator.
The English language edition which I acquired include tables and bar graphs on period up to publication which has mildly interesting statistics of ascents of these peaks (and deaths) up to that time. The book is more of a quick accounting (with photos of dead frozen climbers which the book was criticized for) of all descents than an adventure narrative. Think of it as a survey.
In 1975 Mesnner and Peter Habeler climbed an 8 KM high peak in 3 days. 3 days. By a new technical route no less of a peak which was climbed first by Americans taking a couple months by an easier route. OK, he did a couple 8 KM peaks before that starting with Nanga Parbat (a mountain few English speakers have even heard of) by the longest, tallest face on the Earth by somewhat traditional expedition means and Manaslu most non-climbers have never heard of it either. These are men who did an Eiger original route in 10 hours (a 17 hour ascent had happened decades earlier). And Messner soloed a ice face in the Alps which took people 2-3 days in 8 hours.
So many people predicted Messner's demise, it got very boring. And the number 14 is twice the George Miller magical number 7 plus or minus two (for people who study attention and cognition). Few people could name all 14 peaks. So I think the average reader can be excused if they get a little fatigued reading this book. Messner climbed each of the 14 8 KM peaks in chapters whereas other climbers wrote entire books (to help defray expedition cost) Messner descended and go to the next 8 KM peak (a couple, like Everest, he did more than once), oh, and also he climbed all these peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. How could he really afford the expense of all this? Oh, he doesn't have to pay for supplemental. Sorry to say that along the way he alienated his seemingly perfect partner in Peter Habeler as well as his beautiful wife.
Messner completely studied all available literature on these mountains. He does his homework. Yet he has to make editorial decisions on what to write. The maps are reasonably well done. The English language translation is OK. If you think his writing is clunky, blame his translator.
The English language edition which I acquired include tables and bar graphs on period up to publication which has mildly interesting statistics of ascents of these peaks (and deaths) up to that time. The book is more of a quick accounting (with photos of dead frozen climbers which the book was criticized for) of all descents than an adventure narrative. Think of it as a survey.
August 29, 2015
Messner mentions several times throughout the book how he "only wrote about his experiences as a way to fund his expeditions." This is apparent. Despite being translated from German, this book is written in an odd style. Messner chooses to describe some of the most harrowing ascents in all of mountaineering with little more than "On the 3rd day we went to the top in good weather." This book does contain a lot of good information and the pictures are truly phenomenal, I just didn't feel compelled to complete it despite being a subject so dear to me.
October 10, 2007
"I'm not proud of this collection, which I do not regard as such. I'm not proud of success, thought I have sought it for a long time. But I am proud to have survived..."
This book is a celebration of man's life who have begun the journey, through the horizontal and vertical limit, reached all the roof of this planet, all the 14 peaks with eight-thousand meter or more height, and still alive!
This book is a celebration of man's life who have begun the journey, through the horizontal and vertical limit, reached all the roof of this planet, all the 14 peaks with eight-thousand meter or more height, and still alive!
March 10, 2013
Good ole Reiny. An excellent "coffeetable" type of book with some fantastic photography, general history of each of the peaks, and Messner's philosophical musings. He always makes me laugh unintentionally, but I genuinely love his viewpoints towards climbing.
January 2, 2015
Not the best read, but a well illustrated book.
June 1, 2015
What a great book. Heart pounding, gut wrenching adventures.
Displaying 1 - 19 of 19 reviews