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Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing
Steck was considered by many to be one of the strongest climbers who ever livedThe holder of six amazing speed-climbing recordsThe first and only English-language book by this much loved alpinistA climber of incredible strength, Ueli Steck set climbing records for speed and endurance that no one had previously thought possible. This deeply personal and revealing memoir, Ueli My Life in Climbing, is the only one of his books to be published in English.In 2016, Ueli established a new speed record on Eiger’s North Face—beating his own record! That same year he climbed all 82 four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps within 62 days (traveling between the peaks by bicycle), and summited Annapurna’s south face in 28 hours. But the dramatic events of the previous two years—the internationally reported conflict with Sherpas at Mount Everest, and the discovery of Alex Lowe’s body on Shishapangma—changed him and made him rethink his approach to the mountains.After withdrawing from the sport for a period, Ueli rediscovered his love of climbing, and in this memoir he explains how his perspective changed. While his drive to achieve in the mountains hadn’t diminished, an evaluation of his experiences helped him find a new way to process the emotional and mental challenges that shaped his athletic outlook. Structured around key climbs, Ueli My Life in Climbing provides the history of each mountain and route, Ueli’s reasons for attempting it, what happened on each climb itself, and what he learned from the experience. It also includes some fascinating insights into his training regimen.Ueli infuses his story with the joy and freedom of climbing and running. He is honest, direct and, at times, exhibits the self-absorption common to many elite athletes. Ultimately, however, his experiences brought him to a place of self-awareness and he was no longer the same climber who first set the speed record on the Eiger’s North Face. Ueli was determined that he would take only acceptable risks. Unfortunately, Ueli’s bar for risk was still very high—he died while on a training climb on the Himalayan peak Nuptse on April 30, 2017.
181 pages, Kindle Edition
Published December 12, 2017
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442 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews
November 11, 2021
I don't like alpine books, it appears. I can't write a poor review of an autobiography by a dead man without speaking ill of the dead, so let me just vague it up and explain why I don't like any of these stories.
1) Diarrhea- Don't you have an editor to tell you that your reader will not be engaged in this discussion?
2) The recurrent theme of ignoring the well-being of your wife despite her reasonable pleas that you not make this horrible choice.
3) Chronic insistence that if a choice is devoid of fear, that means the choice is rational. Because all fear is irrational! Go base jumping! Go free soloing! Cut yourself! Harass great white sharks! Fear is for ladies! NOTHING CAN HURT YOU.
All of these books are wrought with tragedy even if the authors are, at press time, technically alive. But the authors find myriad ways to convince themselves to continue upward and onward, regardless of whether or not they may orphan their children. How long can we root for the girl running up the stairs in the scary movie? Personally, I am quitting this genre because I am about to start rooting for the mountain. I need my literary heroes and heroines to be a little better at pattern recognition. How many bodies do you have to find before it dawns on you?
1) Diarrhea- Don't you have an editor to tell you that your reader will not be engaged in this discussion?
2) The recurrent theme of ignoring the well-being of your wife despite her reasonable pleas that you not make this horrible choice.
3) Chronic insistence that if a choice is devoid of fear, that means the choice is rational. Because all fear is irrational! Go base jumping! Go free soloing! Cut yourself! Harass great white sharks! Fear is for ladies! NOTHING CAN HURT YOU.
All of these books are wrought with tragedy even if the authors are, at press time, technically alive. But the authors find myriad ways to convince themselves to continue upward and onward, regardless of whether or not they may orphan their children. How long can we root for the girl running up the stairs in the scary movie? Personally, I am quitting this genre because I am about to start rooting for the mountain. I need my literary heroes and heroines to be a little better at pattern recognition. How many bodies do you have to find before it dawns on you?
September 16, 2019
Particularly enjoyed the chapter where he recounts his solo ascent of Annapurna. Also enjoyed thinking of his time climbing/running with Killian Jornett, like some kind of rock supergroup except with rock climbing not rock music. And of course the opening chapter describing his infamous run in with a bunch of sherpas that nearly beat him to death was fascinating. Sad he's no longer with us. Though of course not surprising. RIP the Swiss Machine.
October 4, 2023
Truly inspiring!
Not only does this book tells the story of an incredibly fascinating human, it does it while making us reflect on deeply important questions. What drives us in life? It is always justifiable to live solely for your dreams?
Not only does this book tells the story of an incredibly fascinating human, it does it while making us reflect on deeply important questions. What drives us in life? It is always justifiable to live solely for your dreams?
April 8, 2018
What is a mountaineer? What are they about? Risk? Reward? Godlike feats of super-endurance? Ueli Steck was one of the finest mountaineers ever to have lived and he managed to also be one of most unique. Combining incredible first ascents and solo projects with an incredible generosity and warmth of spirit he truly rose to the top of what a person can be. This book; the first to have been translated into English, covers some of his most famous accomplishments and reads much like you were having a conversation over coffee with the man himself.
We begin with Everest and the now infamous events that Steck found himself in the middle of. Steck doesn't try to take sides, he gives a fair handed account of what went wrong from his point of view without trying to make himself seem innocent or anyone else especially villainous. The thing that stands out the most about the way he talks about the whole situation is the obvious love he has for Nepal and its people, and for the mountains themselves. Rather than anger or bitterness the main emotion seems to be regret that things ever got that bad, it seems clear to me that Steck sees Everest as much more than just an adventure playground and genuinely wishes that a solution to the current problems can be found.
As we move through Annapurna, the Alps and South America the reader is treated to some of the best descriptions of life in the death zone that I have ever read. Steck retains his humour and force of spirit even when recounting some of his darkest times. As he navigates death and an almost supernatural run of poor luck and misfortune he never seems to lose sight of who he is but instead uses this adversity to try to improve both spiritually and in terms of his climbing. The result is a genuinely uplifting read, and a fitting celebration of a life lived earnestly. Steck was tragically killed whilst in the Everest region in 2017 and it is fitting that his words are reaching an English audience so that his remarkable life and attitude can reach a new audience.
Tsam
We begin with Everest and the now infamous events that Steck found himself in the middle of. Steck doesn't try to take sides, he gives a fair handed account of what went wrong from his point of view without trying to make himself seem innocent or anyone else especially villainous. The thing that stands out the most about the way he talks about the whole situation is the obvious love he has for Nepal and its people, and for the mountains themselves. Rather than anger or bitterness the main emotion seems to be regret that things ever got that bad, it seems clear to me that Steck sees Everest as much more than just an adventure playground and genuinely wishes that a solution to the current problems can be found.
As we move through Annapurna, the Alps and South America the reader is treated to some of the best descriptions of life in the death zone that I have ever read. Steck retains his humour and force of spirit even when recounting some of his darkest times. As he navigates death and an almost supernatural run of poor luck and misfortune he never seems to lose sight of who he is but instead uses this adversity to try to improve both spiritually and in terms of his climbing. The result is a genuinely uplifting read, and a fitting celebration of a life lived earnestly. Steck was tragically killed whilst in the Everest region in 2017 and it is fitting that his words are reaching an English audience so that his remarkable life and attitude can reach a new audience.
Tsam
March 16, 2018
The language used is simple, yet technical and never boring. You'll get immersed in no time.
I loved being transported to all those places - be it a peak in the Himalaya or in the Alps, in a bivouac or on the ridge that leads to the summit. And what I loved most, was being in his mind, seeing how he was reasoning about the mountain in general, and about risk and experiences.
You can tell he was preparing for all expeditions, minimizing risk as much as possible. Interspersed in the book you'll find him offering very specific and really detailed technical insights, such as the degrees of the inclination of a slope and whether he'd be able to climb it with his feet only, or the thickness of the ice that let him decide what gear to use or which route to take.
The numbers cited are also mindboggling to me. He'd ascend the Eiger three times in a day - just for training.
And yet, it becomes clear how genuine of a person he was, knowing when his skills were better than those of his companions - so that he could decide it was safer for him to lead or to put others on belay - and when they were worse, such as when he'd run with Kilian, an ultrarunner, to the base of the Eiger.
He had faced death a few times, but deep in his soul, he couldn't resist the experience he could get in the mountains. He'd simply not be himself if he restrained from going there. He knew the risks were there but he also knew they were worth running.
Overall, the book offers an illuminating cross-section on his way of thinking and living.
For me, it was inspiring to the bone.
The only minor note is for the edition: it would have been awesome to have a few more pictures and maps. On the latter, specifically, don't get me wrong, Ueli does an amazing job at describing where peaks, valleys, ridges, and faces are, but it would be so much better to benefit from a visual aid that accompanies the text.
I loved being transported to all those places - be it a peak in the Himalaya or in the Alps, in a bivouac or on the ridge that leads to the summit. And what I loved most, was being in his mind, seeing how he was reasoning about the mountain in general, and about risk and experiences.
You can tell he was preparing for all expeditions, minimizing risk as much as possible. Interspersed in the book you'll find him offering very specific and really detailed technical insights, such as the degrees of the inclination of a slope and whether he'd be able to climb it with his feet only, or the thickness of the ice that let him decide what gear to use or which route to take.
The numbers cited are also mindboggling to me. He'd ascend the Eiger three times in a day - just for training.
And yet, it becomes clear how genuine of a person he was, knowing when his skills were better than those of his companions - so that he could decide it was safer for him to lead or to put others on belay - and when they were worse, such as when he'd run with Kilian, an ultrarunner, to the base of the Eiger.
He had faced death a few times, but deep in his soul, he couldn't resist the experience he could get in the mountains. He'd simply not be himself if he restrained from going there. He knew the risks were there but he also knew they were worth running.
Overall, the book offers an illuminating cross-section on his way of thinking and living.
For me, it was inspiring to the bone.
The only minor note is for the edition: it would have been awesome to have a few more pictures and maps. On the latter, specifically, don't get me wrong, Ueli does an amazing job at describing where peaks, valleys, ridges, and faces are, but it would be so much better to benefit from a visual aid that accompanies the text.
May 16, 2020
A fascinating autobiography of a driven mountaineer pushing the boundaries of what is possible on the world’s highest mountains, achieving some extraordinary feats entailing the acceptance of quite high levels of risk, levels that would eventually end with his death in the Himalayas (though no-one can ever know what caused the fall that killed him on Nuptse in 2017).
The book is well-written, and well-translated by Billi Bierling; a worthy addition to the canon of mountain literature. On the whole, it as an enjoyable read but at times you feel that it is lacking in detail. For example, whilst he spends 72 pages on his solo ascent of the South Face of Annapurna I, he covers his 62-day traverse of all 82 4000m peaks in the Alps in just 52 pages. If you have no prior knowledge of the locations, places and routes he describes, it may lessen the enjoyment of the read; knowing (or having been to) the places and things he talks about definitely adds to the sense of awe at what he achieved. That said, as a mostly solo climber moving extremely quickly, there is probably not too much he can say compared with more expedition-style books by the likes of Bonington or the early days of Alpine-style ascents by Messner.
What is particularly interesting about his story, though, is the insights he provides into his thinking and reasoning, notably the aftermath of the infamous ‘brawl’ on Everest (that opens the book) and his re-evaluation of his own drivers and preparedness for taking risks after the Annapurna ascent.
The climbing fraternity lost a shining star in 2017 but Ueli Steck’s legacy will long endure, as he showed us all what is possible in our sport, both physically and mentally.
The book is well-written, and well-translated by Billi Bierling; a worthy addition to the canon of mountain literature. On the whole, it as an enjoyable read but at times you feel that it is lacking in detail. For example, whilst he spends 72 pages on his solo ascent of the South Face of Annapurna I, he covers his 62-day traverse of all 82 4000m peaks in the Alps in just 52 pages. If you have no prior knowledge of the locations, places and routes he describes, it may lessen the enjoyment of the read; knowing (or having been to) the places and things he talks about definitely adds to the sense of awe at what he achieved. That said, as a mostly solo climber moving extremely quickly, there is probably not too much he can say compared with more expedition-style books by the likes of Bonington or the early days of Alpine-style ascents by Messner.
What is particularly interesting about his story, though, is the insights he provides into his thinking and reasoning, notably the aftermath of the infamous ‘brawl’ on Everest (that opens the book) and his re-evaluation of his own drivers and preparedness for taking risks after the Annapurna ascent.
The climbing fraternity lost a shining star in 2017 but Ueli Steck’s legacy will long endure, as he showed us all what is possible in our sport, both physically and mentally.
October 17, 2021
straightforward writing style, sometimes maybe a little too play-by-play, depicting some of his incredible accomplishments. The part about solo climb of south face of Annapurna was maybe the best, as he really dives into his own fears, close calls, sense that he might really have pushed it too far that time, etc.
The long section concerning climbing all 82 >4,000 meter peaks of the Alps, on the other hand, was a little boring at times, as though the major challenge was the logistics involved, making arrangements with temporary partners, waiting out bad weather, etc., as the actual climbing was apparently pretty easy for him (averaged more than 1/day).
Consistent with my view that all famous people know each other, he does some climbing with the famous mountain runner/ultramarathon God Killian Jornet at one point.
Sadness looming over all of it is that you know [if you read the jacket copy first, as I always do!] he died in the Himalaya in 2017 in a fall, but of course we don't hear about what led to that tragedy.
might have been good, if feasible, to include a chapter by his wife. He alludes to her disapproval of some of the risks he took, but it came off as though the resolution was just always for him to more or less put his foot down and say that he's gotta be himself.
I guess his engine just wouldn't idle -- at one point he depicts an "ice line" as "not too steep at about 70 degrees" (p 83). Guessing he would not be too blown away by my treadmill hill repeats at up to 8 degree incline.
anyway, nothing too new if you read a lot of mountain climbing books [which is safer than actually climbing] but fun to follow along as long as it was going well for him.
The long section concerning climbing all 82 >4,000 meter peaks of the Alps, on the other hand, was a little boring at times, as though the major challenge was the logistics involved, making arrangements with temporary partners, waiting out bad weather, etc., as the actual climbing was apparently pretty easy for him (averaged more than 1/day).
Consistent with my view that all famous people know each other, he does some climbing with the famous mountain runner/ultramarathon God Killian Jornet at one point.
Sadness looming over all of it is that you know [if you read the jacket copy first, as I always do!] he died in the Himalaya in 2017 in a fall, but of course we don't hear about what led to that tragedy.
might have been good, if feasible, to include a chapter by his wife. He alludes to her disapproval of some of the risks he took, but it came off as though the resolution was just always for him to more or less put his foot down and say that he's gotta be himself.
I guess his engine just wouldn't idle -- at one point he depicts an "ice line" as "not too steep at about 70 degrees" (p 83). Guessing he would not be too blown away by my treadmill hill repeats at up to 8 degree incline.
anyway, nothing too new if you read a lot of mountain climbing books [which is safer than actually climbing] but fun to follow along as long as it was going well for him.
January 4, 2020
One thing I appreciate about this book, is how it starts. We don't have much in the way of a typical biography with a few chapter summary about childhood, or how the pursuit of climbing began. Instead, we start off by staring up at Everest, and it isn't long before we are hip deep in snow, ice, and conflict. The rest of the book moves at a pace that does Ueli justice, we the reader, are always on the move. While some of the feats are downplayed or humbly recounted, even a casual reader can see the effort and dedication that lurks between lines. No matter how fast the book is read, during most of the pages, you can't help but feel like you are right in the middle of a speed climb.
This book offers more potential enjoyment for the reader who has at least a novice level of understanding about mountaineering and climbing. While it is not necessary, there are not a lot of details explaining some of the technical aspects or equipment, which might be dull for someone simply seeking to read an adventurous tale. Worth the read.
This book offers more potential enjoyment for the reader who has at least a novice level of understanding about mountaineering and climbing. While it is not necessary, there are not a lot of details explaining some of the technical aspects or equipment, which might be dull for someone simply seeking to read an adventurous tale. Worth the read.
January 30, 2021
Every night, I looked forward to curling up in bed and immersing myself in Ueli's world. His words transported my mind to the summits of the worlds highest mountains and I really did feel like I was there with him. I knew Ueli was a great mountaineer and a great risk taker but this book really helped me to understand his mindset. He understood the risks and always questioned whether he was taking it too far. His almost suicidal attitude in dangerous situations haunted him at times and he battled himself constantly. He pushed himself to be the best at his field, and always strived to manage risk and climb safely. His last words in the book highlight his wish to continue "without killing himself" but ultimately, he met his tragic fate in the mountains. Heartbreaking...
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
June 29, 2022
Book: The translator’s commitment to this project despite the emotional challenge comes through in a beautiful job well done. Ueli’s own insights on life and climbing are thoughtful, determined, measured and clear.
Personally: Reading the book knowing the end story was of course different than the books of other still living alpinists. This one is so special though - I don’t normally “relate” to people I don’t know or celebrity type persons but my first reel rock film was Ueli climbing, the Eiger filming against Radical Face introduced me to a cherished music, I was facing my own challenges and Ueli inspired me and saddened me when I learned of his death. Just a wonderful person and legacy. I’ll look forward to sharing this book with my children.
Personally: Reading the book knowing the end story was of course different than the books of other still living alpinists. This one is so special though - I don’t normally “relate” to people I don’t know or celebrity type persons but my first reel rock film was Ueli climbing, the Eiger filming against Radical Face introduced me to a cherished music, I was facing my own challenges and Ueli inspired me and saddened me when I learned of his death. Just a wonderful person and legacy. I’ll look forward to sharing this book with my children.
April 29, 2020
The book of my fallen idol.
I was lucky enough to meet Ueli Steck during an AAC event in Boston, back in 2016, and only a few months before he’d meet his untimely end in the Himalayas. Mr. Steck has long been a hero of mine, and meeting him in person was a great honor.
From his speed records on the north face of the Eiger to his peerless feats in the Himalayas, this posthumous book retraces the life of the world’s most complete mountaineer.
A great soul taken much too soon...this book is a worthy testament to a life (too?) well-lived!
I was lucky enough to meet Ueli Steck during an AAC event in Boston, back in 2016, and only a few months before he’d meet his untimely end in the Himalayas. Mr. Steck has long been a hero of mine, and meeting him in person was a great honor.
From his speed records on the north face of the Eiger to his peerless feats in the Himalayas, this posthumous book retraces the life of the world’s most complete mountaineer.
A great soul taken much too soon...this book is a worthy testament to a life (too?) well-lived!
December 23, 2022
Ueli Steck was not only an INSANE athlete, he truly loved the sport of climbing and mountaineering (and biking and trail running etc etc)
The two things that blew me away were, firstly, his expeditions and, in a close second, his passion.
He used the words “love” 100+ times, “fun” 100+ times, and “joy” 50+ times. Truly someone that loved his craft, loved pushing himself, and loved the mountains.
A great book about some mind boggling accomplishments through the lens of a uniquely driven individual. Beautiful!
The two things that blew me away were, firstly, his expeditions and, in a close second, his passion.
He used the words “love” 100+ times, “fun” 100+ times, and “joy” 50+ times. Truly someone that loved his craft, loved pushing himself, and loved the mountains.
A great book about some mind boggling accomplishments through the lens of a uniquely driven individual. Beautiful!
November 13, 2023
On par with other outdoor/adventure memoirs I have read. For a short book, Ueli provides an incredible amount of detail into the routes and logistics of his climbs and projects. As a runner, I really enjoyed how much he attributed to his commitment to running for mountaineering fitness and the inspiration he took from ultrarunner Killian Jornet in further incorporating speed in his approach to mountaineering. Without a doubt a visionary of his craft who pushed the sport forward.
January 18, 2025
This mountaineer was an absolute animal and I mean that in the best way possible, just a powerhouse. Although I’m sure it shares similar stories and experiences that many other mountaineers had, this guys passion, motivation, and ability to do it alone, made for an inspiring read. I would recommend referencing a map to help you follow his adventures.
December 27, 2018
A great insight into the thinking of one of the most athletic mountaineers ever. His relationship with risk was clearly different than many others, and it's interesting to see stories told from that point of view.
April 27, 2020
A Great book
An excellent translation massively helps this truly inspiring book.
"Thank you, Ueli. We can never repay you. Or perhaps we can—by following your example" - Steve House
An excellent translation massively helps this truly inspiring book.
"Thank you, Ueli. We can never repay you. Or perhaps we can—by following your example" - Steve House
March 23, 2018
Thrilling content, but the writing is average. This is a collection of memoirs about some of Steck’s big climbs. He was driven to push himself beyond what he thought he could do at any cost.
August 12, 2019
Given the guy died while this was being translated, it's pretty great. Definitely a good insight into the risk/reward debate going on in a cutting edge athlete in a dangerous sport
May 12, 2025
This book was crazy , he’s so nuts!!! Will say home boy is a little full of himself but I guess I would be too if I set speed records like that. Rip legend
August 1, 2025
Ueli steck one of the greatest alpinists ever and a very well written book!
October 3, 2025
Love a mountain book, and this one from Ueli was solid. A stream of consciousness on a few key expeditions and goals. What an awesome person.
July 4, 2024
The love for Ureli is apparent. He was an incredible athlete who had a desire to do hard things, scale mountains, live in the moment, and just LIVE. These things do not come without some sort of selfishness, disregard for others (especially his wife) and the overall safety of others. I find that these type of people excel well in alpine conditions but their social aptitude lacks. I’m sad that Ueli died & i am deeply impressed by his accomplishments. Over all, it’s just sad. Sometimes I don’t think the risk is worth it.
December 4, 2021
Ueli Steck is one of my favorite alpinists of all time.
He accomplished feats like no other could. He was dedicated.
This book was his last gift to the world, and showed me how he tackled the most difficult problems in the Alps & Himalayas.
It can be quite difficult to get through this book if you don't know all the names of the mountains and villages in the Alps, so it was for me. However, if you are into Alpinism this book is a must-read, and maybe you will learn all the classic peaks and routes he describes.
He accomplished feats like no other could. He was dedicated.
This book was his last gift to the world, and showed me how he tackled the most difficult problems in the Alps & Himalayas.
It can be quite difficult to get through this book if you don't know all the names of the mountains and villages in the Alps, so it was for me. However, if you are into Alpinism this book is a must-read, and maybe you will learn all the classic peaks and routes he describes.
November 11, 2019
Enjoyable book, but sad that he died suddenly at the peak of fitness.
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews