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Eating NAFTA: Trade, Food Policies, and the Destruction of Mexico
Mexican cuisine has emerged as a paradox of globalization. Food enthusiasts throughout the world celebrate the humble taco at the same time that Mexicans are eating fewer tortillas and more processed food. Today Mexico is experiencing an epidemic of diet-related chronic illness. The precipitous rise of obesity and diabetes—attributed to changes in the Mexican diet—has resulted in a public health emergency.
In her gripping new book, Alyshia Gálvez exposes how changes in policy following NAFTA have fundamentally altered one of the most basic elements of life in Mexico—sustenance. Mexicans are faced with a food system that favors food security over subsistence agriculture, development over sustainability, market participation over social welfare, and ideologies of self-care over public health. Trade agreements negotiated to improve lives have resulted in unintended consequences for people’s everyday lives.
In her gripping new book, Alyshia Gálvez exposes how changes in policy following NAFTA have fundamentally altered one of the most basic elements of life in Mexico—sustenance. Mexicans are faced with a food system that favors food security over subsistence agriculture, development over sustainability, market participation over social welfare, and ideologies of self-care over public health. Trade agreements negotiated to improve lives have resulted in unintended consequences for people’s everyday lives.
288 pages, Paperback
Published September 18, 2018
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Displaying 1 - 16 of 16 reviews
October 3, 2019
I don’t typically gravitate to food studies books, but Alyshia Galvez’s Eating NAFTA: Trade, Food Policies, and the Destruction of Mexico has become one of my new favorite reads. Galvez, a Lehman University medical and cultural anthropologist has written a groundbreaking book that examines the underbelly of NAFTA and how it has impacted traditional foodways in Mexico. There are apparently studies on the subject but hers deftly integrates scholarly work on the economic effects of NAFTA, historical background on agriculture policies dating back to the Porfiriato era, health-related research on such chronic disease as diabetes, and field research on families in Mexico post-NAFTA. There have been tragic consequences due to the erosion of trade barriers resulting in a greater availability of highly processed foods and sugary snacks and a lesser prevalence of traditional milpa-based cuisine, or food centered around ground corn and fresh vegetables for masa and salsas. When the availability of the processed foods has become more cost-effective to sell at local neighborhood tiendas throughout Mexico than fresh fruit and vegetables something has gone painfully wrong with free trade.
Fortuitous consequences of the radical diet changes are pandemic chronic illnesses like diabetes and obesity in the last 25 years in Mexico. According to Galvez, obesity has risen to more than 32% with 71% considered overweight since NAFTA and an astonishing 16% rate of diabetes by 2017. Globalization has created health problems fully supported by Mexico’s health ministry which has labeled milpa diets as woefully inadequate while promoting “healthier” options such as processed “low fat” or “gluten free” alternatives. This book, in short, mind boggled me as although I’d considered the negative economic effects of NAFTA, I’d not really ruminated on the dire health effects. Though Galvez spends most of the book examining the underside of NAFTA in terms of health and diet, she also explored the cultural appropriation of milpa-cuisine by high-end chefs who seek to “elevate” the “peasant foodways” for exorbitantly high-priced dining experiences. When William Sonoma has cultural appropriated pork tamales to sell in their holiday catalogues something has gone awry in the food universe. I highly recommend the book for foodies and those interested in Latino and Latin American Studies.
Fortuitous consequences of the radical diet changes are pandemic chronic illnesses like diabetes and obesity in the last 25 years in Mexico. According to Galvez, obesity has risen to more than 32% with 71% considered overweight since NAFTA and an astonishing 16% rate of diabetes by 2017. Globalization has created health problems fully supported by Mexico’s health ministry which has labeled milpa diets as woefully inadequate while promoting “healthier” options such as processed “low fat” or “gluten free” alternatives. This book, in short, mind boggled me as although I’d considered the negative economic effects of NAFTA, I’d not really ruminated on the dire health effects. Though Galvez spends most of the book examining the underside of NAFTA in terms of health and diet, she also explored the cultural appropriation of milpa-cuisine by high-end chefs who seek to “elevate” the “peasant foodways” for exorbitantly high-priced dining experiences. When William Sonoma has cultural appropriated pork tamales to sell in their holiday catalogues something has gone awry in the food universe. I highly recommend the book for foodies and those interested in Latino and Latin American Studies.
December 23, 2019
Anthropological and social science overview of the economic, political, and social changes affecting the Mexican agrifood system since the 1994 adoption of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). A social and structural analysis of NAFTA's links to Mexico's public health problems, as food and food systems changed the structure of the Mexican agricultural and food system and the shifting nature of Mexican food ways, again, under stresses of NAFTA (neoliberalism, immigration, etc.). The book identifies and debunks prevailing public health discourses and policy orientations that see overweight, obesity, diabetes, and other diet-related chronic health problems as consequences of individual behavior - bad choices made by poor people - and which seek to resolve them by stimulating behavioral change, through education and incentives. This “personal responsibility” perspective is straight out of neoliberalism's playbook. Galvez's work comprehensively refutes public health policy discourses that blame individuals and their irresponsible personal choices for diet-related public health crises. Some great take-downs of arrogant first-world chefs "rediscovering" the tortilla, and other equally douche-y hipsters and their $15 orgasmic avocado toast!
February 23, 2022
I found this a frustrating book.
On the one hand, Galvez performs a damning and detailed analysis of the socioeconomic destruction NAFTA has wrought in Mexico. She deftly weaves history, economics, and anthropology to describe the not-so-slow-motion catastrophe NAFTA has been for most working people on both sides of the US-Mexico border in terms of their finances, their communities and social structures, and their health.
However, some of Galvez's arguments can come off as a bit self-contradictory. At times, she warns against the negative health implications of rising obesity levels as evidence of structural violence against Mexicans. At others, she argues that "the obesity epidemic" may not be real and that ideas of "health" can police body conformity. These seem mutually incompatible. Is this a question of presenting a fair overview on both sides of the issue, or is it an insurance policy against criticism?
This is tied to my second criticism. Given the inter- or trans-disciplinary nature of this topic, I would have really appreciated perspectives from physicians, economists, and agroecologists. While these are present, they are always presented and translated through Galvez, who is an anthropologist. The arguments she makes that draw upon her primary ethnographic data coupled with socioeconomic analyses seem really solid, but I feel things get shaky when the analysis extends to statistics and biophysical systems.
Finally, at one point,the author cites Gustavo Arellano's criticism of Rick Bayless as evidence that foodie culture appropriates traditional Mexican food, ignoring that the title of his article is: "The problem isn't Rick Bayless cooking Mexican food—it's that he's a thin-skinned diva." Not to mention that Arellano has also written stinging rebukes of the "cultural appropriation" argument like, "Let White People Appropriate Mexican Food—Mexicans Do It to Ourselves All the Time." Look, I think that traditional foodways are often victims of appropriation, and there's lots of citations that really do make that argument, so why cite a source that doesn't? It makes me question the integrity of the sources the remainder of the arguments are based on.
On the one hand, Galvez performs a damning and detailed analysis of the socioeconomic destruction NAFTA has wrought in Mexico. She deftly weaves history, economics, and anthropology to describe the not-so-slow-motion catastrophe NAFTA has been for most working people on both sides of the US-Mexico border in terms of their finances, their communities and social structures, and their health.
However, some of Galvez's arguments can come off as a bit self-contradictory. At times, she warns against the negative health implications of rising obesity levels as evidence of structural violence against Mexicans. At others, she argues that "the obesity epidemic" may not be real and that ideas of "health" can police body conformity. These seem mutually incompatible. Is this a question of presenting a fair overview on both sides of the issue, or is it an insurance policy against criticism?
This is tied to my second criticism. Given the inter- or trans-disciplinary nature of this topic, I would have really appreciated perspectives from physicians, economists, and agroecologists. While these are present, they are always presented and translated through Galvez, who is an anthropologist. The arguments she makes that draw upon her primary ethnographic data coupled with socioeconomic analyses seem really solid, but I feel things get shaky when the analysis extends to statistics and biophysical systems.
Finally, at one point,the author cites Gustavo Arellano's criticism of Rick Bayless as evidence that foodie culture appropriates traditional Mexican food, ignoring that the title of his article is: "The problem isn't Rick Bayless cooking Mexican food—it's that he's a thin-skinned diva." Not to mention that Arellano has also written stinging rebukes of the "cultural appropriation" argument like, "Let White People Appropriate Mexican Food—Mexicans Do It to Ourselves All the Time." Look, I think that traditional foodways are often victims of appropriation, and there's lots of citations that really do make that argument, so why cite a source that doesn't? It makes me question the integrity of the sources the remainder of the arguments are based on.
February 4, 2021
This book was excellent and covers very important ground. As a person engaged in policy making it's super critical to have books like this that outline the harms of short-term thinking and policies based on the advancement of societies through a eurocentric lens. This book is a cautionary tale for how harmful bad policies can be and show the importance of understanding capitalistic powers, imperialism and the history of food and health.
While I learned so much I'm giving it 4/5 for two reasons. The first was I was disappointed by the lack of discussion around Canada (1/3 of NAFTA and also a great producer of corn) and it's role or maybe lack of role in harming Mexico. I understand the US held a lot of weight in the negotiations but I would have been interested to have heard even a little bit about Canada's role. Especially with issues like the temporary foreign worker program in Canada and how that was impacted if at all by NAFTA.
Second, as a policy person I found there to be a lot of repetition. I know academia loves to repeat and to write more than less, but it made some chapters a bit cumbersome to get through. I also acknowledge books like this have their chapters often read independently of the rest - so I knows there's value in repeating previously mentioned theories but this went beyond.
Aside from that this is an amazing read. Id read more of her work for sure.
While I learned so much I'm giving it 4/5 for two reasons. The first was I was disappointed by the lack of discussion around Canada (1/3 of NAFTA and also a great producer of corn) and it's role or maybe lack of role in harming Mexico. I understand the US held a lot of weight in the negotiations but I would have been interested to have heard even a little bit about Canada's role. Especially with issues like the temporary foreign worker program in Canada and how that was impacted if at all by NAFTA.
Second, as a policy person I found there to be a lot of repetition. I know academia loves to repeat and to write more than less, but it made some chapters a bit cumbersome to get through. I also acknowledge books like this have their chapters often read independently of the rest - so I knows there's value in repeating previously mentioned theories but this went beyond.
Aside from that this is an amazing read. Id read more of her work for sure.
April 18, 2021
Wowzas. This book is a firm, well-documented takedown of the neoliberal destruction of the Mexican food system by the United States & NAFTA. For anyone interested in food sovereignty, social justice, and building more humane, healthy food systems, this is a must-read.
February 10, 2021
Informative, important. For anyone working in public health, medicine, or international policy- this is a must read.
September 9, 2025
I picked Gálvez's book as part of my research for my thesis. I am interested in learning more about how NAFTA affected life in Mexico for agricultural workers. There was some useful information in this book along those lines but the vast majority was focused on the changing dietary habits of Mexicans after U.S. style processed foods flooded the Mexican market and the resulting deterioration of health and expanding waistlines. This book is a great example of the unintended consequences that can result from upsetting the status quo.
The arguments in the book do seem to become repetitive but do illustrate how the health and culture of working class Mexicans have been disrupted by this sweeping trade deal. I found it to be an informative read but not one that will likely draw me back for further examination.
The arguments in the book do seem to become repetitive but do illustrate how the health and culture of working class Mexicans have been disrupted by this sweeping trade deal. I found it to be an informative read but not one that will likely draw me back for further examination.
September 9, 2025
I picked Gálvez's book as part of my research for my thesis. I am interested in learning more about how NAFTA affected life in Mexico for agricultural workers. There was some useful information in this book along those lines but the vast majority was focused on the changing dietary habits of Mexicans after U.S. style processed foods flooded the Mexican market and the resulting deterioration of health and expanding waistlines. This book is a great example of the unintended consequences that can result from upsetting the status quo.
The arguments in the book do seem to become repetitive but do illustrate how the health and culture of working class Mexicans have been disrupted by this sweeping trade deal. I found it to be an informative read but not one that will likely draw me back for further examination.
The arguments in the book do seem to become repetitive but do illustrate how the health and culture of working class Mexicans have been disrupted by this sweeping trade deal. I found it to be an informative read but not one that will likely draw me back for further examination.
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November 14, 2022En este libro se realiza una revisión sobre los efectos que le TLC ha producido más allá de la economía, ya que su impacto ha cambiado y transformado nuestros hábitos alimenticios, la forma de elaborar nuestros alimentos y por ende ha impactado en el estado de nuestra salud. No en balde los casos de enfermedades crónico- degenerativas se ha elevado, así como enfermedades como el cáncer han incrementado desde que en nuestra dieta se han incluido alimentos ultraprocesados, con enormes cargas de azúcares y grasas. Un libro para educarnos sobre aprender a seleccionar nuestros alimentos, así como aprender a educarnos como consumidores.
November 1, 2024
On one hand, this book truly captures something about our society today. Its insights can be understood in a broader global context and are worthy of reflection no matter where you live. How we eat and how our lives have changed around food has evolved not only in Mexico but worldwide. On the other hand, I sometimes feel that the book stays at the surface of the subject, making broad statements that may not always hit the mark in its arguments. Still, it is clearly well-explained, easy to read, and quite engaging.
February 21, 2024
Concise but effective anecdotes introduce each chapter, with a good combination of economic law, updated views on marxist anthropology, and critiques on avant-garde gastronomy. This book is an excellent case study of US-LATAM agrifood relations, and how they impact the health, autonomy, and wellbeing on their respective populations.
November 30, 2022
I read this for a graduate course and REALLY enjoyed it. Great for anyone working in public health, international policy, food systems, or who just wants to learn more about how shitty NAFTA and corporate control of food is
June 5, 2025
Coca cola is cancelled.
January 13, 2025
I knew that one of the negative repercussions of NAFTA (a free trade agreement forged between the US, Canada, and Mexico in 1994) was that Mexican peasant maize farmers could not compete with US corn agribusiness subsidized by the American government. It drove many of these small-scale farmers out of business. Some moved to cities in search of factory or other urban employment. Large numbers have migrated to the US as well. I had not thought through the environmental, dietary, or health implications of this trade agreement, though. And that is precisely what this book focuses on.
To the first point, Mexicans grow a variety of heritage strains of maize. They are each unique, highly flavorful, thrive in areas where it might be otherwise hard to grow crops, and promote biodiversity. American commodity corn, in contrast, is genetically-modified, mass-produced, uniform, less tasty, and depletes the soil of nutrients more quickly. The Mexican government has tried to get locals to grow this foreign corn because of potentially higher yields, but the sterile plant requires constant purchasing of seeds and fertilizers and is ultimately more expensive. It also can be harder if not impossible to grow on small, rocky, or dry plots, unlike heirloom varieties.
Ironically, heirloom corn is beginning to experience a renaissance, not in Mexico, where most people can't afford to purchase it, but in high-end Mexican restaurants in the United States. This is terribly ironic and terribly unfair (don't forget it's both tastier and healthier than the commodity version, not to mention culturally significant) but there is also some positive to come from it as well. Organizations like MASECA have formed to persuade Mexicans to go back to growing heirloom corn and to help them sell this product at a fair price to foreign restaurants. Think of it as like a fair trade network. Additionally there are efforts to create seed banks of heirloom corn to help preserve such biodiversity.
While well-off, often foreign foodies are enjoying healthy tortillas made from heirloom corn, poorer Mexicans, both at home and abroad, are now surrounded by cheap snacks and soda, often made with high fructose corn syrup. These products, like commodity corn, flooded the market thanks to NAFTA, and they seem necessary as more people work in urban jobs without access to fresh food or the time to cook it. Sadly, Mexico and the US trade off the "honor" of having the world's highest soda consumption. As a result, Mexicans suffer from high levels of obesity and diabetes, as well as other diet-related diseases.
The Mexican government has, within the last decade, finally begun trying to improve health standards. Mexico became the first country in the world to place a tax on soda and other junk foods. Additionally they have reworked their nutrition labels to have bigger text, color coding, and warnings about the healthiness of products. There are stricter rules about what can be served in school lunches as well. While in some way these measures are revolutionary and have inspired other countries to do the same, the effectiveness of these measures have been challenged by corporations that have fought back. For example, these food and beverage companies have helped to design the new labels and they have purposefully made them more confusing than they should be. Additionally, health officials still blame individual people's eating choices, which lets the government off the hook. Most officials are not talking about how structural problems like poverty, unemployment, and of course, NAFTA, have contributed to unhealthy eating.
This is an excellent book that invites the reader to think about the effects of neoliberal "free" trade agreements in all new ways.
To the first point, Mexicans grow a variety of heritage strains of maize. They are each unique, highly flavorful, thrive in areas where it might be otherwise hard to grow crops, and promote biodiversity. American commodity corn, in contrast, is genetically-modified, mass-produced, uniform, less tasty, and depletes the soil of nutrients more quickly. The Mexican government has tried to get locals to grow this foreign corn because of potentially higher yields, but the sterile plant requires constant purchasing of seeds and fertilizers and is ultimately more expensive. It also can be harder if not impossible to grow on small, rocky, or dry plots, unlike heirloom varieties.
Ironically, heirloom corn is beginning to experience a renaissance, not in Mexico, where most people can't afford to purchase it, but in high-end Mexican restaurants in the United States. This is terribly ironic and terribly unfair (don't forget it's both tastier and healthier than the commodity version, not to mention culturally significant) but there is also some positive to come from it as well. Organizations like MASECA have formed to persuade Mexicans to go back to growing heirloom corn and to help them sell this product at a fair price to foreign restaurants. Think of it as like a fair trade network. Additionally there are efforts to create seed banks of heirloom corn to help preserve such biodiversity.
While well-off, often foreign foodies are enjoying healthy tortillas made from heirloom corn, poorer Mexicans, both at home and abroad, are now surrounded by cheap snacks and soda, often made with high fructose corn syrup. These products, like commodity corn, flooded the market thanks to NAFTA, and they seem necessary as more people work in urban jobs without access to fresh food or the time to cook it. Sadly, Mexico and the US trade off the "honor" of having the world's highest soda consumption. As a result, Mexicans suffer from high levels of obesity and diabetes, as well as other diet-related diseases.
The Mexican government has, within the last decade, finally begun trying to improve health standards. Mexico became the first country in the world to place a tax on soda and other junk foods. Additionally they have reworked their nutrition labels to have bigger text, color coding, and warnings about the healthiness of products. There are stricter rules about what can be served in school lunches as well. While in some way these measures are revolutionary and have inspired other countries to do the same, the effectiveness of these measures have been challenged by corporations that have fought back. For example, these food and beverage companies have helped to design the new labels and they have purposefully made them more confusing than they should be. Additionally, health officials still blame individual people's eating choices, which lets the government off the hook. Most officials are not talking about how structural problems like poverty, unemployment, and of course, NAFTA, have contributed to unhealthy eating.
This is an excellent book that invites the reader to think about the effects of neoliberal "free" trade agreements in all new ways.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
June 3, 2021
One of the best books I’ve read in a while. It’s very interdisciplinary with implications in public health, economics, politics, and anthropology. Would probably recommend this book to anyone who is a consumer (and we all are consumers in our capitalist society of hyper-consumption! Woohoo!!!)
February 26, 2025
If you want to know about the effects NAFTA had on Mexico, this is the book. Beyond this, Gálvez paints an intricate picture of foodways in the nation. Perhaps the most necessary study in understanding the Mexican foodscape and condition post-NAFTA.
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