It'd be remiss of me not to start this review with its most pervasive fact.
"The average age of a building in Tokyo is 26 years old."
I came across that single fact in no less than 6 of the different pieces that make up this book. The first time I was probably as astounded as you are right now. The book can further add to your disbelief with.
"The average age of a person living in Tokyo is 44 years old."
Yep the average person is nearly double the age of the average building in Tokyo.
On a recent trip to Japan I was struck by the vast concrete jungle of Tokyo, how homogeneous and lacking in distinctive features it was. In lieu of distinctive architecture Tokyo Totem attempts to find and define the various totems that people use to anchor themselves to life in Tokyo. These totems bring meaning and can be anything from the bird call sounds of a pedestrian crossing alarm to the steam rising from the exhaust of a local bath house. Tokyo Totem attempts to show that Tokyo's history has not been preserved through its buildings, the way a Western city would be. Rather the fabric of social mores and traditions, the way of life, and the people, are what connects Tokyo to its past.
Though the built environment has gone through so many iterations there's still a legacy from ancient times in the structure of the city. For example nearly all of the feudal manors of the last millennia are gone but the land distribution and plot size remains the same and so the manors on the hills are now the site of giant towers, while the low land areas formerly of the peasantry and their smaller plots are filled with small residential apartments. Many of the gardens in between remain but have been transferred from private ownership to state ownership. The plot sizes of properties and buildings are largely as they were thousands of years ago it's just that their ownership got transferred through the Meiji period and the land repurposed. In some ways the shape of Tokyo maintains its old power distribution even if the buildings are not the same.
You may have heard of the famous shrine at Ise, that gets rebuilt every 20 years. It's instructive in the process of how people live in Tokyo "At Ise, we are in the presence not of a 'finite object', but of an 'infinite process'; and this is merely another way of saying that what constitutes the heritage here is as much the subject (the participants in the rite) as it is the object (the temple)."
A further example would be the Zojoji Temple which famously stands right next to Tokyo Tower. The temple was built in 1974, whereas Tokyo Tower was erected in 1958. Looking at the two buildings you could be mistaken for thinking the Temple predates the tower by at least a thousand years. But unlike the churches of Europe, the temple is not centuries old. Instead it is a reconstruction on the site of the previous temple, and the temple before that. Every fifty to a hundred years the Zojoji Temple has been rebuilt on the same spot (for at least the last 400 years), and before that the temple stood in the Hibiya neighbourhood for at a further thousand years. Tokyo is not the buildings themselves but the process of building and the connection to the site they are on.
There are many forces that have sent Tokyo down the path of constant renewal. To name a few, the same beliefs that drive the renewal of the shrine at Ise, the metabolist architectural movement, the Meiji transformation, the embracing of the western nuclear family as the central entity, the increase in single person dwellings, the tradition of inherited property being knocked down and rebuilt, the impact of earthquakes, World War II, and the list goes on.
Another thing to reflect on is the name Edo, essentially meaning estuary. That's what the small fishing town was before the Tokugawa decided to start its transformation into the Tokyo we know today. Such a huge amount of the land that Tokyo currently sits on is reclaimed. The Tokugawa set up vast systems of canals feeding off the numerous rivers on the plains that make up Tokyo. Most of the canals have long since been filled in and are now roads or train tracks. Equally many of the rivers no longer flow, or are now subterranean. But they also just reclaimed huge parts of land from the ocean.
This isn't a guide book in so much as a chance to see through the eyes of several dozen architects, artists, and intellectuals who have lived in Tokyo and attempted to understand the city beyond the surface level. Many of these don't succeed, some are glib, some are too bogged down in the artifice of academic language, and some are just wrong. But in amongst the chaff there's some good morsels. The team who set out to understand how the Japanese building code is shaping the city nailed their contribution. There was actually a short piece about a male host at a club for lonely women that stood out as well.
The single biggest problem with this book is the truly horrific editing. There's a typo on nearly every other page. The first few I was willing to excuse but it started to become a joke and annoy me more and more. I'm not sure whether it was because a lot of the book was originally written in other languages and then translated or it was written in English but checked by Dutch speakers. I can't put my finger on it but I really wish they'd got the editing right.
Despite the grammatical errors this book does bring something really fresh to the table. I loved finding a new way of looking at humanity's largest city and the Totems that have guided others in their relationship with it.