Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen

by David Sax

James Beard Award A cultural history and culinary travelogue from “the M.F.K. Fisher of pickled meats” (A. J. Jacobs). These days there are very few places you can get authentic hot pastrami sandwiches, delicious matzo ball soup, and chewy, crusty rye. In this travelogue, die-hard delicatessen lover David Sax searches out the best Jewish delis around the United States—and the world—and digs deep into the history of the its characters, greatest triumphs, spectacular failures, and uncertain future.   Going far beyond New York landmarks, past and present, like Katz’s, the Carnegie Deli, and the Second Avenue Deli, to Chicago, Florida, LA, Montreal, Toronto, Paris, and beyond, Save the Deli is the story of diaspora, and of one man’s quest to save a defining element of the culture—and the food—he loves. It even includes a glossary of food and Yiddish terms, for the goyim or the woefully assimilated. Just don’t read it on an empty stomach.   “An epic journey, akin to The Odyssey but with Rolaids.” —Roger Bennett, author of Bar Mitzvah Disco

Genres: Food, Nonfiction, Food History, Food Writing, Jewish, History, Food and Drink

340 pages, Kindle Edition

First published October 19, 2009

About the author

David Sax is a journalist, writer, and keynote speaker specializing in business and culture.

David's latest book, The Revenge of Analog: Real Things and Why They Matter looks at the resurgence of analog goods and ideas, during a time when we assumed digital would conquer all. It's available in various formats, but especially in paper, and was a Washington Post Bestseller. David's first book, Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen and won a James Beard Award for writing and literature, as well as other awards and the praise of deli lovers everywhere. His second book is The Tastemakers: Why We're Crazy for Cronuts but Fed Up with Fondue, which is chronicles how food trends emerge, grow, and ultimately make a difference in our world.

In April 2020, he will publish The Soul of An Entrepreneur: Work and Life Beyond the Startup Myth, which examines the meaning of entrepreneurship and working for yourself.

He lives in Toronto, Canada.

Reviews

[Davida · Rating 4 out of 5]

It's a testament to David Sax's writing that I finished this book since it is the most meat-centric thing I have ever read. I had a kind of idea going into it, as its subtitle includes the words "perfect pastrami." Sax spends a lot of time discussing the intricacies of pastrami, corned beef, salted meat, smoked meat, salami, schmaltz, you get the idea. And he eats a ton of it. However, beyond that part of the book, there is a lot to learn and enjoy. I learned about Jewish/Yiddish history, geography, cuisine, culture, and just plain Yiddish language, all things I love.

The book brought me down sometimes because time after time Sax would lament the death of the deli (a title he considered giving the book actually), so much so that it got repetitive and hard to read. But I think that was his point. This is happening all over and his mission was to find out why and to try to convince his readers (and the world?) why deli needed to be kept alive. He shows us the warmth, hard work, tradition, and delicious food available in delis. And he shows us how corporate food is taking over what these family-owned places have to offer.

Of the delis I've been to, I suppose I haven't truly experienced everything they have to offer since I have never ordered anything with meat and according to Sax, that's the whole point of a deli! I can, however, relate to the shared meal and the carrying on of Jewish tradition and food served with love and sass.

[Phoenix · Rating 5 out of 5]

A Paen to Pastrami, a Broucha on Baby Beef

This book is delicious. The words slide off the page like moist corned beef on a page of triple seeded kimmel rye. Its a full throated meal which not only satsifies but comes complete with a full sour dill pickle of Jewish ethnic history, Sax eschews the chains and sings a klezmatic freilach to family owned busnesses catering to local taste and memories instead of the blandest common denominator, a lesson as applicable to Korean kimchee or Portuguese churrasqueiras.

This is an exuberant cel-ray-atory emotional rollercoaster of a book. I laughed, I kvelled, the surprise ending brought tears to my eyes. This is a story of life and love, brought to you with a slice of knish and kneidel a matzah ball and some kreplach in a bowl of home made chicken soup. Along the way I learned that "baby beef" is a Toronto specialty and that you can get kosher deli when you are at Sundance in Utah.

I love deli food, cole slaw and Brown's cherry cola with a maraschino cherry (or two) thrown in for extra flavour.. A trip to the Noshery was a regular after shopping treat when I was a child. Hot hot mustard is an essential ingredient, hot pickled pepper on the side. An elder cousin grew up over a deli. When he went into the army he thought he had died, that the fire had gone out of him. Turned out he had heartburn all of his life and had never known it. He's in his 70s, still in the business, still has the fire and can't live without it. .

The directory of deli's at the back is invaluable. As I write this I'm finishing off the last of some sliced Montreal smoked that I picked up at Schwartz's in Montreal a couple of weeks ago. (The St. Viateur St. bagels are already long gone.) I've been meaning to go the Centre Street Deli since it opened and it's only a few blocks away. Both Detroit and Ann Arbor have deli's and I pass thru on occasion and never knew. In New York I usually go to the Carnegie but now I'll have to try some of the others.

My copy was signed by the author at the book's launch at Caplansky's deli in Toronto - and it was worth it! So what do I know?? Ask my two best friends, Essen and Fressen! ;-{} Yes, they had free samples for the opening, but I'm definitely heading back. They slice the brisket at the counter where you can see it and it's a glistening work of art, made all the more beautiful now that I've read the book and all lore that goes with it. The briskets are cured in the basement. Yasher koach David Saxs, you did a such a mitzvah!. May you and the deli tradition go from success to success!

Recommended for any foodie or business person, especially food entrepreneurs seeking to compete against the large chains which the author eschews and spits out, Sax reveals that the secret of success is to be true to what you are. A travelogue in food and very well written.

[Crystal · Rating 4 out of 5]

Way more about deli than I ever needed to know, but hey, the Mel Brooks interview made my heart sing. Also, I've never eaten pastrami quite like the kind described-need to get my hands on some.

[Melissa · Rating 4 out of 5]

If it's about food, I'm probably going to read it. And while I'm not exactly a connoisseur of deli (although I do love me some pastrami), I thought reading about the deli would be interesting. And I was right, Sax leads us on quite the adventure in search of the remaining deli's in the world.

Sax has a mission. Save the Deli, or so the title of his book says. In reality, this book is an exploration of the delis that are left in the world. It is divided into three parts: New York, the rest of the USA, and the World. In each section he explores the delis available, gives his opinions on them, and lists out the types of food they have and whether or not they are authentic. He also talks about the types of people that run a deli, to the lifers to those who are just wanting to make a quick buck and franchise. Throughout the whole book, there is Jewish history, customs, and culture explored as well.

Sax doesn't pull any punches. If he thinks a deli is crap when he visits it, he says so. But he is also lavish in his praise for those he thinks gets it right too. In fact, he even acknowledges that he's going to make people mad when he says that New York is not the deli capital of the world, that there are better in Los Angeles and Montreal. And seeing as how New York prides itself on its delis, that's really saying something. Of course, it is just his opinion, although he seems to be well versed in deli lore. I mean the man eats tongue everywhere he goes which is just plain odd (and not something I ever think of when I think of the deli).

The whole point of this book is to point out that delis are dying around the world. People are looking for other things and cured meats are falling by the wayside. As are gefilte fish, matzo balls, and other things. And how can this be? Sax explains it as different tastes for today's Jewish youths, health reasons (most of this food can be artery clogging) and deli not being done right so that it's tasteless. The way he describes pastrami in this book makes me think that I've probably never had a good authentic one. And if I like the type I can get out of the case at Kroger, what on earth would I think of the actual stuff? I probably would have to set a tent up in front of the front door of that deli and eat there every day. Sax does do a wonderful job of describing the food. Even the tongue that sounds unappealing to me he manages to make sound delicious and decadent. Enough that if I were offered a free sample I would probably take it. And I do like that he talked about the people of the deli, the so called Deli Men who made it their whole life and did it right, carving the meat against the grain. And even the history and culture of Jewish people was appreciated as aside from what everyone knows about the Holocaust, I haven't really learned much about the culture. And to make the book even better, there's a listing of what the different foods are and the different deli locations in the back.

I different kind of food book. It was part travel, part history, part commentary, and all about one man's love for the deli. His obsession made for a great book and he researched it well. I know that based on this book, a trip to Zingerman's is probably in my future.

Save the Deli
Copyright 2009
288 pages

Review by M. Reynard 2012

More of my reviews can be found at www.ifithaswords.blogspot.com

[Carianne Carleo-Evangelist · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book went from wonderfully engaging to dragging slightly to a powerful close, and it was especially poignant in timing as Carnegie Deli announced their closing as I was mid book. I really enjoyed as Sax traced the Jewish diaspora within America through its delis before returning to its roots in Western and finally Eastern Europe. The deli as somewhat of a gentrification marker in the American midwest was interesting and unexpected to this reader.

I found that Sax's writing brought the food to life and made the dishes he sampled as much of characters as the deli men he interviewed. I'm not a big deli eater, but I had a craving for noodle kugel, challah, lox and more.

I think the only reason the Canadian deli traditions didn't interest me as much as I'm not that interested in their food scenes. I had a stronger tie to other cities and I think that's why I enjoyed them more. If I didn't know the deli, I often knew the neighborhood. In the case of Stage and Carnegie, I walked past them daily en route to and from work. In addition to the iconic Carnegie, closing at the end of 2016, Jimmy and Drew's in Boulder has also closed since his research trip. Delis truly are dying off. Made me even more grateful for the rebirth of the 2nd Avenue deli and I'm glad both NYC locations are still thriving to this day.

Poland, and the literal death of Jewish culinary traditions in the holocaust was a perfect ending to the original research. How many recipes and deli men had died off in that, the world's largest Jewish cemetery. I wonder where the delis would be today with those six million alive. I can only hope that the resurgence in some midwest cities, as well as Ben's and Katz's here, will keep the tradition alive for another generation.

[Benjamin Kahn · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book. I love smoked meat sandwiches, and always associate them with Montreal and my grandparents who lived there. A lot of deli foods - knishes, blintzes, bagela - I know only through my Jewish grandparents and frequent visits to Montreal, so I especially enjoyed the chapters that dealt with Montreal and my hometown of Toronto.

I could relate to David Sax, too, who grew up in Toronto but whose parents were Montreal Jews. He says his grandmother lived around the corner from Snowden Deli - my grandparents were walking distance from Snowden Deli too. The main difference is his parents moved to T.O. fleeing the separatists in the '70s, and my dad came to Toronto to go to U. of T. in the '60s. Also, both his parents were Montreal Jews, and my mum was an Anglican from Thunder Bay. So my connections to Judaism were mostly through my grandparents and were cultural, not religious.

I liked his tribute to the dying of the deli, and his hopes for a future resurgence. I found the list of Jewish dishes interesting and admired his enthusiasm for really well-made deli food. I understand to some extent - I've had lots of bad smoked meat/corned beef/pastrami over the years, and it's really not worth eating. But when it's good, it's great.

A good overview of delis, their history, and their future. It gets depressing when he talks about Poland and the effects of the Holocaust, but for most of the book, it's a fun, light read, especially for those who like deli!

[Chris Aylott · Rating 4 out of 5]

A "world's foremost expert on delicatessen" -- I'm not sure what his qualifications are, beyond an obvious enthusiasm -- explores the history of the Jewish delicatessen, eating his way through as many delis as he can find around the world. Not a good book to read while hungry, since it makes you crave pastrami.

Aside from that flaw, the book is breezy and informative. There's enough economics in there to explain while the classic Jewish deli is a rare sight these days (short version: high rent and premium wholesale prices for what used to be unwanted cuts of meat). There is also the usual breast-beating about "why can't we preserve the old way of doing things even though it no longer makes financial sense to do so?" However, the book ends on a hopeful note, pointing out a new generation of deli owners who are not just preserving classic Jewish food, but figuring out how to take it into the new century. Purists may sniff, but I am a lot more excited about a cuisine that is evolving instead of steadfastly imitating what the grandparents cooked.

[Jeanne · Rating 3 out of 5]

On my first trip to NYC, my husband and I ate deli twice—Artie’s and Ben’s. We could not wait; there is nothing like it in the Twin Cities. Little did we know that the Jewish delicatessen is dying.

That’s right: according to Sax, delis have been closing in large numbers over the years. I guess it’s tough to get a good pastrami sandwich anywhere, not just Minnesota. So, our intrepid author tackles the dilemma of the dying deli and travels across North America (and even Europe) to find out whether great Jewish deli still exists.

Sax covers NYC, Chicago, Detroit, LA, Montreal, Toronto, London, Paris, and several more places. He is a master when it comes to writing about deli food—my mouth was watering as I read this book. He possesses a deep and abiding love for pastrami and rye, and he is dedicated to telling his readers where to find the good stuff.

And to be extra helpful, he includes a listing of the delis mentioned, as well as a food and Yiddish appendix.

Tasty and tempting!

[Elwood D Pennypacker · Rating 4 out of 5]

Did Fox News kill the good kosher or kosher style deli? I ask you. Probably not but provocative enough - especially in the Florida chapter of this book. But don't get me started on Florida.

This is a loving ode to a dying culinary experience. The pleasure of a salty, fatty piece of a cow prepared in succulent ways and all the to-do around it (Kishke, kasha, kugel, kreplach, knedelach, on it goes, without the letter K too).

I grew up (and out) on Adelman's, Empress, and 2nd Ave Deli in New York. So to read this, especially about Abe at 2nd Ave, was to read a family history, more so than the recent Knish book (which is a perfect compliment to this one).

I may not believe in god, kosher kitchens, or separating the sexes but I will be a Jew to the end, if only because my Bubbe made the best matzoh ball soup and my city made the best pastrami on rye.

That's some good work you did there, Sax. Maybe I'll see you at Schwartz's or Caplansky's one of these days.

[Nancy · Rating 3 out of 5]

Loved the tour of Jewish delis! As I read about corned beef, pastrami, and the "ks" -- knishes, kreplach, kugel, I could almost taste them!

[Jessie · Rating 5 out of 5]

I strongly enjoyed this book. David Sax did an amazing job of putting history and feeling into this book. It isn't a novel, for me, it was just like ready a documentary instead of watching one. I'll be completely honest and say that I love the "Deli." From where I reside now, I can't get much of that whenever I please. Half of the time, people and classmates don't even know what I'm talking about when I discuss the craving of my pastrami on rye with a can of Dr. Brown. Anyways, this book was very good in keeping me interested with the language and set up that he chose. He made it educational and informational, while at the same time not being boring. It kept my mouth-watering and my stomach growling.

[Gary Burk · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the last book that I have read and I thorougly enjoyed it. I guess that was because I couuld identify. Although Pastrami wasnt my favorite I did chase a good corned beef sandwiche at quite aa few deli's in my day. As I recall I never visited any of the deli's in the book with the exception of the ones in Los Angeles and Las Vegas, I still enoyed reading about Sax's experiences, The book was funny and poignant at the same time. It was a good summer read and well worth the time. I was certainly able to reminice as it added to my pleasure of days past. Iwould recomend this book to any one who just a good laugh or at least some chuckles. Its not heavy , but a pleant enjoyable book.

[Samira · Rating 3 out of 5]

I could also see giving this 4 stars, but I am feeling cheap.

This was an interesting book to read as a vegetarian--I generally have little use for delis, especially kosher ones, and I kept reading descriptions of food, aware that they were supposed to be appetizing, but instead basically being grossed out. But it also was a fascinating look into a culinary institution. The author loves deli the way that I love New Haven pizza and I can respect that, a lot. And it took me back to the days before I was vegetarian, when I loved delis and would look for my grandfather in every one we went to. I was always confused as to why he was not there, since he lived in Delhi.

[Nazary · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a great book but ultimately it leaves the reader with an appetite for more. Sax spends too much time lamenting the old delis of New York and Toronto to give room for the truly exciting stuff happening literally anywhere else. His chapter on Europe could be a stand alone book, especially Poland. It's a quick read but you ultimately get tired of the same descriptions of pastrami and matzo ball soup. It makes sense that it was spun off a college paper. It reads like one, light and perhaps forgettable. The book lacks any heft. Fans of delis will be hungry for more, non-believers won't be converted.

[Rogue Reader · Rating 4 out of 5]

Have long wanted to read this 2009 book, and finally picked it up at Powells last year. While the author's passion for salted meat is clear, I'm not sure I share his exultation. Maybe I should have known that pastrami is cut from around the navel, and now I wish I didn't. I love though his search for the Jewish delicatessen, in its New York past and today, in New York still and all over the country. Amusing and useful appendices - on Yiddish food terms, the addresses of the delis mentioned in the book, also a good index - unusual these days. A new forward picks up on some delis Sax missed the first go around, including Portland's Kenny and Zuks.

[Katie · Rating 2 out of 5]

After 264 pages of MONOTONOUSLY detailing the demise of delis nationally and globally due to soaring rents, shifting demographics, preferences for healthier foods, the younger Jewish generation not eating traditionally… I cannot adequately express my complete surprise when straight out of left field Sax concludes that the “Nazi destruction of the Yiddish world…above all else, was the reason that the deli was dying.” (265) I guess that was easier than tying together the content of the book to draw a conclusion.

[Janet · Rating 4 out of 5]

David Sax examines the history and decline of the Jewish delicatessen in North America and Europe. He gives several reasons for the decline; such as the high cost of running a deli, children who don't want to carry on the family business, a shift towards eating healthier foods, and the rise of new food trends. This book made me hungry for traditional Jewish delicatessen food. Sadly, the DC area delis mentioned in the back of the book have gone out of business. If I visit another city I will try to search out a Jewish deli.

[Phil · Rating 2 out of 5]

So, so - the story of the loss of real Jewish Delis. Sax travelled arond the country, but missed some big areas, like Boston - mmm- I can still picture (and smell) Jack and Marion's in Brookline when I was a kid. My folls would go on a Sunday afternoon for corned beef sandwiches! Interesting to note, though, that most Jewish style corned beef comes from one plant in the midwest!

Would have made a better long essay for the New Yorker than a book - too much repetition.

[Judy · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed the book, which is a history/travelogue of "real" delis past and present, in this country and elsewhere. (A real deli is family-owned and -run, with countermen who fresh-slice pastrami, etc. to order, and that draws on Jewish culinary traditions.) The author is more than a little obsessed, and at times the writing is a little rough - but his heart, and his passion, are 100 percent behind the Jewish delis of this world, which he sees as a repository and a map of the culture.

[Kristina · Rating 3 out of 5]

I don't live in a deli town and I am not Jewish so I don't have a deep personal history in New York Deli. Even so, Sax really makes you salivate for the traditional flavors of "Jewish" deli across NYC, the US, and the World. I could almost give this book 4 stars, but I found that occasionally the book felt a bit repetitive (there are only so many ways can you describe a kreplach or matzo ball soup). Very well researched and an interesting read- especially if you love pastrami!

[Lacey · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is a delightful trip around the world of deli. Growing up in a large Jewish family, we would often have family birthday parties and celebrations at delis, and I've grown up loving deli food. I definitely want to visit some of the delis mentioned (the listing at the end of the book is quite helpful). I also laughed at the glossary of terms. My mom and I particularly got a kick out of the definition for white bread.

[Ilana Waters · Rating 4 out of 5]

A breathtakingly informative, game-changing book about the past, present and future of deli. Sax truly went all-out in his global (yes, global) quest to find, sample, and explain the concept of deli and where it's headed. It's true that he goes on a bit too long in parts, and is more than a little disdainful in others. But overall, Save the Deli is both an homage and a call to action for everyone who loves Jewish culture, pickled meats, and well-crafted food. L'chaim!

[Dave Guia · Rating 4 out of 5]

What fun...a trip through some of the old delicatessens along with some new ones. I'm glad that the author decided against the title "the death of the deli" because I'd like to think that there will still be delicatessens for many generations to come. This book inspires me to try to get to visit more delis in the future...
Better to read this book when you're feeling hungry, as it will fill you up without adding a calorie!

[Kim · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fun, passionate read. I'll forgive him for ignoring my section of the country (and regretting not going to the wrong place when he does - there is MUCH better brisket and corned beef and pastrami and knishes down the street) for what he says about elsewhere. Um, don't read this one while hungry or in a state where hungry is a possibility.

[Susan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Canadian Sax puts together a lot of information and a lot of love, as he gives the history of the Jewish-American delicatessen, whether Kosher or not, and combines it with a tour of selected United States and Canadian locations and a foray into Europe for their take on delis. He also discusses the forces that are combining to destroy delis all over the country.

[Harry Rubenstein · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fun book about the culture of Jewish deli. Big personalities meet big appetites. Pastrami will definitely taste different from now on. Surprised Sax didn't hit Meyer's in Amsterdam and Israel's only mention was a throwaway line. Since publication there has been a minor deli revival. Interested in seeing where things are in another ten years.

[Jason Tham · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book was a great mix of sociology and foodieology (whatever the actual appropriate word to describe that is). While I found the history of the Jewish deli to be fascinating, I must warn you, read this book on a full stomach. Sax is a little too good at describing Jewish deli, so much so that I found myself hungry unless I had eaten just before picking it up.

[Cade · Rating 4 out of 5]

As someone raised in the semi-rural South and a former resident of the very rural South, I have eaten what some would call strange things over the years. It's just what we do. So I couldn't very well draw back in too much horror over some things I discovered are traditional Jewish fare. Anyway, excellent read, awesome research, would definitely recommend it....but tongue?? sorry, no. lol

[shannon · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed reading this book. I definitely had some moments when I wanted to drive somewhere to try some good deli fare. It is a bit disappointing to realize that the Jewish deli is at risk of completely disappearing. Let's Save the Deli!

[shannon · Rating 4 out of 5]

"if the toilets dare exhibit a level of sanitation any less than a japanese nuclear plant, no Jew will ever eat there. Period."

in a word, awesome. and right before my trip to montreal, too. also given me a reason to want to visit friends in detroit, which is weird.