Еверест - трудният път

by Chris Bonington, Крис Бонингтън

Книгата представлява подробно описание на изкачването на югозападната стена на Еверест през 1975 г., осъществено под ръководството на автора.

Genres: Nonfiction, Mountaineering, Climbing, Adventure, Travel, Biography, Autobiography

164 pages, Unknown Binding

First published January 1, 1976

About the author

Chris Bonington was educated at University College School, London and the Royal Military Academy at Sandhurst. He was commissioned in the Royal Tank Regiment in 1956. He spent three years in North Germany in command of a troop of tanks and then two years at the Army Outward Bound School as a mountaineering instructor.It was during this period that he started climbing in the Alps, making the first British ascent of the South West Pillar of the Drus in 1958 and then the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney on the south side of Mont Blanc in 1961 with Don Whillans, Ian Clough and the Pole, Jan Dlugosz. At that time this was one of the most difficult climbs in the Alps and even today is considered one of the great classics of the Mont Blanc region.He made the first British ascent of the North Wall of the Eiger in 1962.

Reviews

[Taniplea · Rating 4 out of 5]

Last year, after I had watched the movie "Everest", I got really interested in Everest expeditions and wanted to read some books about it. A few days later I came across this book, which was given away for free by one of the many op-shops here. Even though it is in a horrible condition (it must have been stored in a moist room, and since I am allergic to mould I sometimes had to read this with my reading glasses on just so my eyes wouldn't get itchy) I took it with me, to read about another expedition on everest, written by the expedition leader Chris Bonington himself.
And in the last few days I finally read it.
I don't really know anything about mountaneering but I still ended up enjoying this book. Everything is described nicely and not too hard to understand, even for people who have no experience with climbing and a bad sense of orientation as well (there was photos of the mountain and a map right next to it, which made it really easy to see where they were on the mountain at different stages of the book.) Bonington uses excerpts from other people's diaries and letters, which shows the different (and also the common) experiences really well.
The only thing that made me feel a bit uncomfortable was reading about tragedies, since these are real persons. But I guess you have to be prepared for accidents when going to Everest.
Now the only thing left for me to decide is if I want to take this book back to Germany with me or not. (Exchange student struggles, the postage is really expensive...)

[Alexandra · Rating 4 out of 5]

Изключително увлекателна, чете се на един дъх. Зад всяка една експедиция - независимо дали до Еверест, около Екватора или някъде другаде - стоят страшно много усилия и средства, планиране и подкрепа - не само финансова, но и на съмишленици. Понякога колкото и малки да изглеждат шансовете нещо да се случи, все пак трябва да се направи опит, само тогава може да се стигне до успех. Препоръчвам я, за да надникнете зад кулисите на една експедиция с нейните тревоги и опасения, със споделените успехи и мъка, с колебанията и тежестта на решенията, но и със силния дух и желание за покоряване на непокореното.

[Tal Taran · Rating 3 out of 5]

"I found myself talking to my feet. I personalised them to such an extent that they were two separate beings needing help. The left one was very slow to warm up and, after conversations with the right one, we decided I had better concentrate on rubbing it hard. And all the time my external mind was putting its spoke in as well." - Doug Scott (on spending the night bivouacking in a snow cave with Dougal Haston at 28,700ft with no sleeping bag or down suit after a successful summit)

Although intermingled with tragedy - the first ascent of the South West Face of Everest in 1975 was a daring and phenomenal achievement. Chris Bonington's account as expedition leader is a fantastic insight into a large scale expedition and his involvement of each climber's journal entries is insightful however he doesn't speak of adventure with the same yearning and zeal that Edmund Hillary manages to capture in his autobiography 'Nothing Venture, Nothing Win': https://www.goodreads.com/review/show...

[Nonny · Rating 5 out of 5]

Brilliant book, would like to read more by Chris Bonington. Great leadership skills, even to the point of stepping back from the chance to be part of the third summit team as he knew it wouldn’t be the best decision for the group as a whole. Very technical book but perfect if you’re looking for a an unadulterated view of climbing Everest.

[Heather · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a great story documenting a climb to the summit in the 1970s. While I am sure the equipment has been improved since then, it gives the reader a great understanding of what it takes to summit the highest peak in the world. It takes huge teams (not all of who will even make the peak), experienced porters, months of planning, a lot of money (I think current estimates are about $40-60,000 per person at this time; only $10,000 for a permit in the 1970s), and a lot of time. It took about two months for this group to make it to the summit. Great photos included.

[James Morrison · Rating 5 out of 5]

I picked up this book cheap at a thrift store and it was a first edition signed by the author. Wow. It is simply one of the greatest mountaineering adventures ever. It starts out a bit slow, but it is necessary to understand the complexity of such an enormous undertaking. The climbing is accurately described and the courage, skill and determination of the climbers are certainly evident in his writing. I recommend it to anyone. It is a fascinating story where life hangs in the balance. Chris Bonington is one of the world's leading mountaineers, to say the least.

[Verginiya Georgieva · Rating 5 out of 5]

Няма по-голямо удоволствие от това да чета за изкачване на Еверест през погледа не само на алпиниста, но и писателя Крис Бонингтън . Детайлно, внимателно, красиво, с възхищение към планината и приключението. Надникването в дневниците на останалите от експедицията допринасяше с гледни точки и емоции. А няколкото снимки вътре, направени през 1975 г. зяпах дълго време - носят съвсем различна енергия от цялата планинска фотография, с която се затрупваме в днешно време ежедневно.

Нещо много съкровено е този разказ в зората на първите изкачвания на Еверест.

[Ambar · Rating 4 out of 5]

He is one of my favorite adventures writer. Sir Bonnington proved as great leader of British Everest Expedition as well as a climber. He put accounts of his expedition member on the book which make the ingredients quite various. You can read from the members perspective about his leadership and also Bonnington view about the climbers.
Great book for people who want to learn about hardship, management, and leadership.

[Jennifer · Rating 4 out of 5]

I am an armchair adventurer. I like reading about Everest and what people have to go through to get to the summit. This was a very interesting read in that it happened in the 70's. It's hard to imagine what they carried when I know that technology has improved the supplies for an Everest Expedition. There is an appendix chapter in which members of the team write about their contribution to the expedition! It was just as interesting as the chapters on the climb itself.

[Dolf van der Haven · Rating 3 out of 5]

I must have had this book since about 1988. It is an interesting story about the first successful attempt at climbing Mount Everest via the Southwest Face. Overall a gripping story, but too much leaning towards the technical and not enough to the experiential side. This 350-page book could have more of the latter, especially given that the actual story only covers 200 pages. The rest are various technical appendices.

[Ajay Ramachandran · Rating 5 out of 5]

Masterclass by Sir Chris in explaining the intricacies of a huge expedition like this one. The way the author places the accounts of his fellow climbers in between his experiences is exceptional. Albeit a tragic end, this is well told tale of the first time Everest was overcome by the South-West Face. Highly recommended ! !

[Sheena · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm not normally into reading non-fiction. But there is something about this
book that fascinated me. It did take me a long while to read, but it was well
worth the time! Anyone who likes climbing or true stories...this is the perfect
book for you!!

[Andy Weston · Rating 4 out of 5]

Read often and used in assemblies at Lytham and Wallasey.

[kunkku · Rating 3 out of 5]

good effort by the aging chris bonnington...

[Robin Hunter · Rating 5 out of 5]

Boys Own Stuff, really well written .

[Adrian · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really enjoyed this. I'll never climb a mountain though - that's what books like this are for.

[Linda · Rating 3 out of 5]

A classic of mountaineering nonfiction that has been on my list for some time. Bonington organized a large expedition to Mt. Everest to try to climb the unexplored Southwest Face that was quite off the usual routes climbers had been taking, and to do it during the off-season in September-October when the monsoon ends, but the snow from it is especially deep and the weather is much colder than the usual May season. The first half of the book is quite dry and documents all the planning decisions, team selection, and financial and logistic challenges. I found it strange that a couple enormously overloaded trucks drove all the equipment overland through Europe, Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India as a more certain way of getting it there by the time they actually would need it. I've forgotten that the world was quite different in 1975. And Everest wasn't the tourist destination that it is now. All of the team members were very experienced. The actual climbing turns out a bit nail-biting, with the first team of two needing to dig a snow cave to survive being still in the open when dark fell. Bonington includes long sections written by team members, as he did not attempt the summit himself, having given up the idea after being convinced by the team doctor. Much of the way was sheer slogging determination, as Doug Scott described in one of his passages: "It was one of those mornings when you keep going because he does, and he, no doubt, does because you do." The team was convivial and Bonington doesn't spare some of their colorful language. He gives special attention and respect to the Sherpa climbers and porters for being partners in decisions, and 22 years after Everest was first climbed, he recognizes their abilities and experiences in careers they had not dreamed of previously.

[Kirsten · Rating 5 out of 5]

Chris Bonington zeigt mit seinem Bericht alle Aspekte einer Expedtion. Von den schönen Momenten habe ich schon viel gelesen. Aber wie man sich fühlt, wenn man einen Freund am Berg verliert und gerade auch, wie schnell das Leben weitergehen muss, habe ich so noch nie gelesen.

Auch die Planung war unglaublich interessant. Hier kam nicht nur der Autor zu Wort sondern auch das Expedtionsmitglied, das für den beschriebenen Teil verantwortlich war: der Mediziner, der Koch usw... Chris Bonington hat einen befreundeten Programmierer gebeten, ein Programm zu entwickeln, mit dessen Hilfe er die Besteigung des Mount Everest bis auf die Stunde planen konnte. Dazu gab es noch seitenlage Listen mit Listen von Ausrüstung, Packlisten und täglichen Kilometern und Höhenmetern. Das habe ich in noch keinem Expedtionsbericht gelesen.

Fazit: ein sehr interessanter Bericht aus einer Zeit, an dem es beim Mount Everest noch ums Bergsteigen ging und nicht um den Kommerz.

[Pintxo_Gromperekichelcher · Rating 5 out of 5]

Amazing. This is the first time I read a real mountaineering story book. I learned so much and even rooted for all characters as if it was fiction. Loved the images, especially the ones displaying all characters from the expedition which made everyone so real and fragile. Those people really existed! I could even look them up in Wikipedia it was so cool. Many of them ended up dying in later summits. What a life, alpine mounteneering…

shivers with “the chapter that follows belongs to Douglas haston and Doug Scott, and I leave them to tell their story between them” when these two heroes where about to make the final push for the summit.
Also liked how short excerpts from the journals of expeditions members were added throughout the book:
Also cool to see 100 pages of appendices in the end of the book such as “organization in Nepal” or “equipment” covering all logistics.

Bought it for 2-3 euros second hand in the 2025 bazaar Luxembourg.

[Anne Macnamara · Rating 5 out of 5]

I am sure that I have read this before and and special edition was a great excuse to revisit. I’be always been fascinated by mountaineering and adventures and Chris Bonington chronicles both so well.
From initial plans and logistics, through the various ways that the team made it to Nepal, this book takes you with the team through all of the trails of an expedition. I love how there are sections from other’s journals to give different perspectives on the climb and decision making on an expedition and all the details at the end.
And makes me want to read more of women’s adventures - this is a male only trip and a reminder that women’s voices are not heard enough in this sphere - and Vertebrate Publishing, who printed this edition, are so good at bringing us a range of voices.

[Nigel · Rating 4 out of 5]

Simply for the remarkable achievement this has to be one of those "important" climbing books. The biggest unclimbed face on the highest mountain had remained unclimbed after maybe 6 previous attempts. And then Bonington's second major expedition comes along. Some outstanding climbers, some important technology particularly the tents, some experienced leadership and some luck. It's well enough told by Bonington and better than some of his books. He allows the expedition's climbers to narrate significant sections. It all adds up to a decent read. The photos are good too and for those who want it there's plenty of details in the appendices.

[Timmy · Rating 5 out of 5]

I'm not sure if it's better than "Into Thin Air" which is the gold medalist of mountaineering books but if not it's a close second. Terrific from start to finish. Something about 16 climbers and 60 Sherpas working in unison to accomplish a goal that even the glass half full folks thought 50% at best. My one complaint is that it seemed to brush over the ending in 20 pages or so. Regardless, the personalities of the greatest climbers in Britain trying to decide who was worthy of the summit bid was high level theater. Had I been on the attempt I surely would not have been chosen. I get nervous pressing any elevator button higher than 10.

Everest the Hard Way.....Five stars

[Rob Harrill · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a re-read, actually. I read it when it first came out in the late ‘70s and my friends and I were devouring climbs in the Sierra Nevada and stories about the adventures of the great figures of the day. It was fun going back to Bonnington’s account more than four decades later. Still an entertaining and informative insider’s look at organizing and pulling off a major siege-style expedition. And still sad about Mick…

[Tim · Rating 5 out of 5]

A very informative account of the almost industrial attempt to climb the SW face of Everest. Surprisingly exciting and the detail provided gives an inside view of the massive amount of administration needed to organise a big expedition. The appendices form about 40% of the book, but are well worth reading. The glossary of terms in Appendix 11 are worth reading before main text.

[Patrick · Rating 1 out of 5]

traip

[Graeme Hadwin · Rating 4 out of 5]

It is a classic tale of adventure from a great mountaineer. Drama, personal achievement, and tragedy. A good read.