''Фрам'' през Полярното море

by Fridtjof Nansen, Фридтьоф Нансен, Стоян Икономов (Translator)

Книгата описва знаменития преход на кораба"Фрам" през ледовете на Гренландия и другите негови експедиции. Дневниците на великия норвежки изследовател се считат за класически в световната пътеписна литература. Приложена е карта описваща маршрута на "Фрам".

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Travel, Biography, Adventure, Memoir

359 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 1897

About the author

Fridtjof Nansen (1861-1930) was a Norwegian explorer, scientist, diplomat, humanitarian and Nobel Peace Prize laureate.

Best known for the Fram expedition, an attempt to reach the North Pole by using the natural drift of the polar ice in the ship Fram, carrying fuel and provisions for twelve men for five years.

Reviews

[Mark Fallon · Rating 5 out of 5]

I just finished reading Farthest North: The Epic Adventure of a Visionary Explorer, by Fridtjof Nansen. The book chronicles the 1893-1896 polar expedition of Nansen and his crew aboard the schooner Fram.

I continue to be fascinated by the exploits of men like Nansen and his crew. In pursuit of knowledge, they subjected themselves to the relentless elements of the Arctic. With a crew of only 12, they took turns at the roles of sailor, scientist, cook, mechanic – or whatever the situation demanded. And somehow remained in good spirits while stuck fast in the ice during the endless polar night.

Nansen’s book is equal parts adventure story, scientific observations and poetry. He captured the valiant efforts of his men, the new information they brought back about the Arctic, and his reflections while separated from his loved ones. I was spellbound by his writing.

Definitely a book to consider while staying warm and cozy in your house this winter.

[J_BlueFlower · Rating 5 out of 5]

I recently saw an exhibition about Fridtjof Nansen and ”Fram” and though that with a little luck someone wrote a novel about it. There was definitely a lot of good material. Bad-ass 19-centrury scientist-.... need I say more? I turned out that Nansen himself wrote the book!

This book is a hidden pearl. So strange it is not more known. The very fine ratings (presently 4.07) are fully deserved. Fridtjof Nansen does a great job conveying his thoughts, both scientific reasoning and more poetics views. He must have been one of the most multi-talented people in history. He was explore and scientist.... but evidently he could also write on a level with a good professional author. And then through in some watercolor paintings for illustrations, and some photos of Fram in the ice and moonlight (remember in the 1890'is you did not just press the button – he mentions hour long exposure, likely taking one photo per day, and spending half an hour developing it).

These men must have been some of the most isolated people in human history. Away from civilization for 3 years. No connection to the outside world, not even one way commutation telling where they were. And even if they could, nobody could reach them.

This book can easily be read like a good fiction novel. It is just so much better. A good author who want to write fiction in a polar setting may spend a few weeks somewhere collecting impressions. That is absolutely nothing to compared with Nansen spending three years there! He fells these three years and he is a first class writer: He can condense those feelings into words. Like the subtle way the idea about leaving Fram slowly develops.

Do not be discouraged about the few first pages of the book dealing with Myths. He is just explaining how little was know about the polar area.

I read an ebook version of the original Norwegian edition. Nansen's Norwegian is fairly easy to read for a Dane.

"Så ufattelig velgjørende det er at kunne ta på klærne sine uden at bli fedtet, og så at kunne røre sig uden at kjende dem klisse til kroppen ved hver bevægelse!"

[Lyndsay · Rating 3 out of 5]

By and large this was enjoyable, but I really found the treatment of the dogs to be upsetting, as well as the (frequent) depictions of polar bear hunting. At least Nansen was honest about how the dogs were treated, and had the decency to express regret about it. I understand that this was largely by necessity but it really took away from my enjoyment of the book. It was at times fairly tedious as well, with many descriptions of the northern lights and ice that were well-written but repetitive.

[Tilda · Rating 5 out of 5]

Kui Norra teadlane, polaaruuria Fridtjof Nansen (1861 - 1930) otsustas korraldada uurimisretke Arktikasse, seejuures lastes külmuda oma laeval Põhja-Jäämere jäässe, nimetati teda hulluks. Varasemalt olid polaaruurijad püüdnud korraldada oma ekspeditsioone liikudes võimalikult maismaa ligi. Ja seda igati loogilisena näival põhjusel. Kui juhtub, et laev jääb jääse kinni või saab vigastada, on meeskonnal võimalik laevalt maale lahkuda. Vaatamata igat sorti kriitikale jäi Nansen endale kindlaks. Ta leidis on ideele pooldajad ja rahastuse ning lasi ehitada täiesti uut moodi laeva, mille nimeks sai "Fram".

""Fram´i" nina, pära ja kiil, kõik sai ümmarguseks tehtud, et jää kusagil püsi ei leiaks. Laeva küljed olid kolmest paksust plangikorrast kõige paremast puust, mis seestpoolt muidugi igal võimalikul viisil tugetud said, nii et sõiduriist seest välja nägi kui ämbliku võrk palkidest, tugidest ja taladest ja endast peaaegu ühtainsat kokkukuuluvat massi kujutas. Eluruumid said nii ehitatud, et nad külmast välisseinast magamisruumide läbi lahutatud ja peale selle mitmekordsete linoleumi-, vildi-, korgi-, ja puuvooderduste läbi üleliigse jahtumise vastu kaitstud olid." (lk 5)

Nansen valmistus ekspeditsiooniks kolm ja võib ju arvata, et pikka, aastat ja seda väga põhjalikult. Lisaks täiesti erilisele laevale oli ka selle varustus erakordne. Kasutati kõige kaasaegsemat tehnikat (isegi eksperimentaalset, nt tuulegeneraatorit, mis tootis elektrit) ja isegi toidu tagavara on komplekteeritud teaduspõhiselt. Samas, selga ei keeratud ka traditsioonilistele teadmistele, mida norrakad, olles sajandeid elanud sisuliselt polaaröö vahetus läheduses, nii või teisiti evisid. "Framil" oli kõik vajalik ekipaaži mugavaks äraolemiseks autonoomselt kuni viieks aastaks.

Lõpuks oli kõik valmis ja "Fram" koos Nanseni ja veel üheteiskümne polaaruurijast vägilasega asus teele ning juba paari kuu pärast külmus õnnelikult jääse. St, Nanseni tolle aja kohta täiest novaatorlik ja võimalik, et geniaalne idee seisnes selles, et lasta laeval külmuda jäässe ning triivida siis ühes jääga Põhjapooluse suunas. Kui kõik eelmised ekspeditsioonid võitlesid jääga, siis Nansen sai aru, et kogu Arktika jää vastu ei saa ja milleks üldse. Selle asemel, et loodusega võidelda, otsustas ta loodust ära kasutada. Nimelt uskus tema, et Põhja-Jäämeres on hoovus, mis jääd liigutab ja kuigi ta eksis pisut hoovuse liikumise suunas, hoovus oli, jää liikus ning sellesse külmunud "Fram" sellega koos.

Selge see, et ega see jääga koos triivimine eriline kihutamine polnud. Kuid vaatamata sellele ja kätte jõudnud polaarööle valitses laeval täielik hyyge. Teadlased mõõtsid vee sügavust ja jää paksust, õhutemperatuuri ja ilmselt kõike, mida seal veel mõõta sai. Ja kui mõõta enam üldse midagi polnud või mõõtmisest ära väsisid, siis kohendasid varustust, käisid jääpangal jalutamas ja jahil, mängisid lauamänge ja lugesid raamatuid ("Framil" oli biblioteek!).

Kuid Nansen ei saanud ikka rahu. Olles mõistnud, et hoovus ei vii "Frami" Põhjapoolusele ning veendunud, et laev peab vastu ja jää seda kannab, otsustas lahkuda laevalt ning vallutada see jalgsi. Ma arvan, raamatus ta ütleb, et eesmärk oli liikuda nii kaugele põhja kui võimalik.

14.03.1895 lahkub Nansen koos Hjalmar Johanseniga laevalt. Mehed liiguvad suuskadel, varustus on kelkudel ja neid veavad koerad. St, veavad, kus saavad, liigutakse aeglaselt ületades kuhjunud jääd, ohtlike jäälõhesid ja iseennast. Kelguekspeditsioon oli karm, nii mehed kui koerad marssisid oma võimete piiril või isegi üle selle. Jää ei olnud tasane, kelgud läksid ümber, üle kuhjunud jää tuli varustust konkreetselt seljas tassida jne. Ilm ei hellitanud, kohati alla -50, meestel olid vaid riided, nahast karvased magamiskotid ja siidist telk. Söök ja koerad hakkasid otsa lõppema. Olles jõudnud põhja laiuseni 86° 14' (kaugemale, kui ükski inimene varem), otsustas Nansen tagasi, kodu poole pöörata (tulenevalt jääoludest edasi polnud enam võimalik minna). Kolm pikka kuud kõndisid mehed enne kui maismaani jõudsid kuid ega kannatused sellega veel otsa ei saanud. Maismaani jõudes (06.08.1895) leevenes olukord toidu osas - merilõvid olid rasvased ja neid oli palju, kuid täiesti uue ohuna ähvardas nüüd mehi ka oht ise ära söödud saada ja seda jääkarude poolt. Karusid oli palju, merilõvisid oli raske veest kätte saada ja üleüldse, polaaröö hakkas uuesti kätte jõudma.

Nansen ja Johansen said aru, et enne kevadet nad edasi minna ei saa ning hakkasid tegema ettevalmistusi talve üle elamiseks. Millest ehitada maja, kui sa asud kusagil Arktilises ookeanis keset tühja, tuultele avatud, üksnes jääd ja jääkarusid täis asustamata saart? Mehed kaevasid endale koopa, kasutasid kive, milliseid suure vaevaga maapinnast lahti kangutasid. Kõige suuremaks probleemiks osutus katus. Selle nad tegid ühest leitud roikast ja morsanahkadest. Ja talvitusid seal siis. Keetsid karuliha, (ainult, muud ei olnud), magasid ja unistasid kuivadest riietest ja kakaost.

"Kolmapäeval, 8. jaanuaril. Eile õhtul puhus tuul saani, mille küljes meie termomeeter oli, nõlvakust alla. Tormine ilm väljas - vihane tuul, mis peaaegu hinge kinni paneb, niipea kui pea välja pistad. Me lamame siin ja katsume magada, aega ära magada. Alati ei lähe see aga mitte korda. Oo, need pikad uneta ööd, kus sa ennast ühe külje pealt teise peale keerad, jalad üles tõmbad, et neid natuke soojendada, ja terves ilmas ainult üht soovid - und!" (lk 95)

"Laupäeval, 1. veebruaril. On imelik olemine terve talv läbi maa-aluses onnis lesida ilma et sul midagi oleks, mille külge kätt panna. Kuidas igatsesime raamatu järele! Kui kena paistis meile elu "Fram´il", kus terve biblioteek oli! Kõik, mille üle meil tõesti rääkida olnud, oli juba ammugi põhjalikult läbi jahvatatud ega olnud tõepoolest mitte palju mõtteid ühistes huvides, mida me veel vahetanud polnud. Pealõbu, mis meile veel jäänud, oli vastastikku kirjeldada, kuidas me endile järgmisel talvel kodus kõige selle eest tasuda tahtsime, mis siin puudus. Me tundsime kuidas me lõpuks õppinud olime kõiki elu varasid hindama, nagu söök, jook, riided, kingad, maja, kodu, head naabrid jne." (lk 95 - 96).

21. 07.1893 lahkus "Fram" Vardö sadamast, 14.03.1895 lahkusid Nansen ja Johansen "Framilt" ning alustasid oma saaniekspeditsiooni, 08.04.1985 jõudsid põhjalaiuseni 86° 14' , 06.08.1895 jõudsid Franz Josephi maale, 19.05.1896 lahkusid Nansen ja Johansen oma talvekorterist, 17.07.1896 kohtusid inglaste ekspeditsiooniga, 13.08.1896 jõudsid tagasi Norrasse. Kümmekond päeva hiljem saabus ka "Fram". Ekspeditsioon õnnestus, Nansenist sai Norra rahvuskangelane.

See raamat on Nanseni ekspeditsioonipäeviku katked. Nappidesse märkmetesse on mahtunud üsna palju. Olme, ilma ja jääolud, aga ka palju mõtisklusi ja tundmusi. Nii praktilise inimese puhul nagu Nansen seda olema pidi, on isegi kuidagi ootamatu lugeda virmaliste kirjeldusi, kaunilt kõlavast lindude laulust, merilõvi silmadest, mis eluks ajaks meelde jäävad jms. Kõik see huvi ja armastus, soe ja uudishimulik suhtumine kõige elava ja mitte elava vastu. Nappus ja siirus. Rõõm, kahtlused ja kõhklused, sentimentaalsus, emotsionaalsus, väsimus, valu ja pettumused. Selgelt loetavad meeleolude kõikumised ja vaatamata kõigele - kustumatu lootus. See kõik muudab ta muidugi erakordselt sümpaatseks ja inimlikuks. Puhas nauding, kindlasti kõige parem raamat, mis ma sel aastal lugenud olen.

[Abdullah Almuslem · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is the second time I read this book. This book had a profound effect on my thinking since I read it five years ago. So, I decided to read it again to refresh my mind.

Although this book may seem as an adventure story, it is in principle a book about patience and endurance. Fridtjof Nansen was a Norwegian polar explorer (A Noble Prize winner -among many other things) who had a crazy scientific idea that no one believed it. In this book, Nansen tells the tale of this idea not sparing the smallest detail.

Nansen wanted to reach the North Pole by the mean of drifting on the ice using a northern sea current that exists in the polar seas, which he believed it would carry him to the North Pole. He wanted to freeze his ship on the ice and wait until this current takes him across the North Pole. So, he built a ship specifically for this purpose, (The Fram). The (Fram) was to be built in such a way that can withstand the ice pressure and be lifted by the pressure instead being crushed. No one believed that such ship can be built but he found an engineer (Colin Archer) who managed to build it.

In 1893, he took with him 13 scientists and headed toward the North Pole. In September, the ship got frozen at 78 degrees N. and his mission has started. He waited and observed. But the drift was not as simple as he thought. One day the ship drifts toward the north and the next day toward the south. So, he waited patiently for two years in that ship. During that period, the crew took all kind of scientific observations. In March 1895, the ship reached 84 degrees N. after long waiting. But to Nansen that was not enough, he wanted to go farther north- farther than any human being in the history. So, he decided to leave the ship with one of his companions (and a number of dogs) and head northward to explore that unknown region. He marched to the north until he reached 86 degrees N without seeing any land. He could not reach farther than 86 degrees N because of the rough ice. So, he marched southward and got lost for a number of months losing all of his dogs (were killed to be fed on !). Winter came and the long polar night took the light in the region. So, he had to stop and build a hut to live in it until the winter is finished. Two crazy explorers living in the dark of the north pole. They lived on bears flesh and whatever animals they encountered. It was a monotonous life with no actions. He described the experience as (A School of Patience).

In 1896, the winter ended and he had to continue moving until he reached an Island. There, he was rescued by an English expedition that was exploring that region. In August 1896, he reached Norway and was received as a hero bringing important scientific observations from that region. Two weeks from his arrival, the Fram arrived safely to Norway announcing the success of the expedition.

Nansen in this book describes the day-to-day activities and incidents that occur to him and his companion with details. Bear hunting, the strange long polar nights, the puzzling arura, the weird dog behavior in that place, the sounds, the ice pressure, the polar sky, the cold etc. It is an epic story that impressed me a lot. Due to the situation he lived in, he recorded very interesting thoughts that makes the reader wonder, think and dream.

Excellent book-

[Caspar "moved to storygraph" Bryant]

this is really good, Nansen's own account of his polar expedition which went alarmingly well, in part due to his understanding that one should plan and prepare for such things, a principle the British & americans hadn't yet grasped. Survives translation very nicely, you're in for a real visceral experience, fear of the walrus.

what really struck me here was the FOOD. I think we imagine these expeditions sustaining themselves on misery, snow, and dried reindeer. No, the Fram was gourmet. par exemple
"The menu was as follows: Minced fish with curried lobster, melted butter, and potatoes; music; pork cutlets, with green pease; potatoes, mango chutney, and Worcester sauce; music, apricots and custard, with cream; much music. After this a siesta; then coffee, currants, figs, cakes; and the photographer stood cigars. Great enthusiasm, then more siesta. After supper the violinist, Mogstad, gave a recital, when refreshments were served in the shape of figs, sweetmeats, apricots, and gingerbread (honey cakes). "

"fried halibut, turtle, pork chops, with haricot beans and green pease, plum-pudding (real burning plum-pudding for the first time) with custard sauce, and wound up with strawberries. As usual, the beverages consisted of wine (that is to say, lime-juice, with water and sugar) and Crown malt extract. I fear there was a general overtaxing of the digestive apparatus. After dinner, coffee and honey-cakes, with which Nordahl stood cigarettes."

I was kind of touched, unexpectedly.

[Mar Dy · Rating 4 out of 5]

"Nothing more wonderfully beautiful can exist than the Arctic night- It is dreamland, painted in the imagination's most delicate tints; it is colour etherealised. One shade melts into the other, so that you cannot tell where one ends and the other begins, and yet, they are all there" - Nansen.

I really enjoyed reading the arctic adventures of Nansen & co - he writes beautifully and has a lyrical style to his writing. It is amazing to think that this adventure is actually real, which makes it so much more enjoyable to read, and to get insight into their daily life on board the Fram and on the polar expedition.

Here is an example of his beautiful writing style to describe the appreciation of his home country Norway when he is slowly departing it for the arctic:

"Here, and there past homely little havens with houses around them set in smiling green trees. Ah! Those snug homes in the lee of the skerries awake a longing for life and warmth in the breast. You may shrug your shoulders as much as you like at the bauties of nature, but it is a fine thing for a people to have a fair land, be it never so poor. Never did this seem clearer to me than now when I was leaving it."

[Marlene · Rating 3 out of 5]

This expedition was a great achievement for Nansen, but my purpose here is not to rate his achievement but the book. While there many interesting and exciting moments, there are also long stretches of days where nothing is reported but daily measurements. From a scientific point of view, these were a necessary part of the expedition, but reading day after day about air temperature, water temperature, water depth, ice thickness and characteristics, latitude and longitude, etc. make for tedious reading.

[Dielleina · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fram! 🤍

[Lauri Laanisto · Rating 5 out of 5]

Sajaaastatagune eesti keel on juba ise lugemisnauding. Eriti kui juttu tuleb terminoloogiast, millele pole tänini maakeeles kõiki vasteid. Aga seal on ikka liustikud veel gleitserid jne.

Raamat on õhuke, sest need on üksnes märkmed, mida Nansen tegi kelguretkel, kus nii tema kui ka ta kaaslane, katlakütjana Framil kaasas olnud, Fredrik Hjalmar Johansen (ta oli katlakütja, kuna kohti oli vähe ja igas ametis oli tegelt mingi spetsialist või kogenud polaaruurija), alailma kelku juhtides kurnatusest magama jäid. Ja pikki jutte kirjutada ei olnud jaksu. Kus nende riided ei kuivanudki ära, niipea kui tulid märjemad tuuled, missest et õues oli miinus nelikümmend ja iilid pealekauba. Esimene pool ööd nad lõdisesid oma magamiskottides, jääle pandud telgis, ja teises pooles said tibake und. Kus kevadise pehme jää saabumisel ei saanud enam kelkudega liikuda, ning neist tuli kajakid teha. Mis tähendas, et viimased ellujäänud koerad tuli parematele jahimaadele saata. Nansen lasi maha Johanseni koera ja Johansen Nanseni oma - sest omaenese koeri nad tappa ei suutnud. Kus nad jõudsid lõpuks mingile kaljunukile, väikesele saarekesele, et seal üle elada järgmine talv. Nad tapsid paar morska, seejuures pidevalt rümbakraami pärast jääkarudega kakeldes - sõna otseses mõttes. Johansen sai korraliku paugu näkku jääkaru käest, aga tal õnnestus ellu jääda, nagu ka läbi jää kukkumisest. Nad ehitasid omale poolenisti maa sisse urka, millele tõmbasid katuseks morsanaha peale. Toas tuli alailma põrandalt jääd raiuda, mis hingeõhust muudkui kihte kasvatas. Rebane viis minema nende jalanõud. Kõik talveks peidikusse pandud toiduained riknesid kevadeks. Jäi vaid morsk. Nende riided olid morsaravast läbi imbunud, ja sellest ei saanud kuidagi lahti. Nad soojendasid riideid ja riibusid noaga rasva pükste pealt maha, aga kui tahes palju nad seda ei teinud, see ei saanud otsa. Nad olid rohkem kui aasta otsa pesemata, riided sadu kordi üle õmmeldud, täiesti omadega läbi, kui nad järgmisel suvel kogemata mingil jääpangal ühe inglasega kokku juhtusid. Nad proovisid liikuda kaugele lõunasse, Teravmägedele, aga neil vedas ja nad said juba Franz Josephi saarestikus Frederick Jacksoniga kokku, kelle esimeseks küsimusel Nansenile oli, et "Te olete ju Nansen, eksole?". Teate ju küll keeruline on ühel inglise džentelmenil hakata vestlema inimesega, kellele teda pole veel tutvustatud. Nibin-nabin oleks päästmine ära jäänud...

Ja et eelpoololev puhtromantiline ja arktikasseigatsev sõnadevulin ei jääks ainsaks postituse sisuks, siis natuke ka Johanseni traagilisest saatusest. Sest ta lõpetas 45-aastaselt enesetapuga. Ja miks see lugu mind praegu kõnetab - järgmisel suurel ekspeditsioonil sattus talle türannist boss, kes, nagu seda tänapäeval öeldakse, kuritarvitas oma ametipositsiooni ja elas end Johanseni peal välja. Tegu oli nimelt Amundseni Antarktika-ekspeditsiooniga. Amundsen teatavasti kiirustas, sest ta ei saanud ju ometigi Scottist hiljem lõunapoolusele jõuda. Johansen vaidles vastu, et tuleb oodata, kuna on veel liiga külm jne. Ja ta pidigi tänu Amundseni jäärapäisusele ühe teise tüübi läbikülmunult jalgsi läbi lumetormi laagrisse vedama, kuna Amundsen tormas koertega ees minema. Ekspeditsioonilt tagasi seilates vallandas Amundsen Johanseni ja tõstis ta Tasmaanias laeva pealt maha. Kõik teised ekspeditsiooni liikmed pidid seejärel alla kirjutama dokumendile, millega nad lubasid, et nad ei tohi ekspeditsiooni kohta sõnagi öelda. Vaid Amundsen ise tohtis sellest rääkida ja kirjutada. Ja ta rääkis ja kirjutaski nii, et Johansen sai täielikult maha vaikitud - ta polnuks nagu üldse kaasas olnudki. Paar aastat pärast ekspeditsiooni lõppu oli ta nii sügavas alko ja depreka kombus, et tappis end ära. Nii et ärge minge sitapeadega ekspeditsioonile. Ärge üldse töötage koos sitapeadega, isegi kui nad on kuulsad ja neil on palju teadusraha. See teadusraha on teie endiste kolleegide hingeveri...

[Jenny · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5 stars, really. This is the strangest polar account I've read (and I've read quite a few). First of all, where is the suffering?! These guys were eating like little kings on the Fram. Also, Nansen's account was incredibly bi-polar. One day, he loves the ice, the Arctic, the Fram, the next day he feels terrible. One extreme to the other, over and over again. I also really hated reading about them chasing down injured polar bears or shooting narwhal or feeding the dogs to each other. Boo. :( The best part was reading about the double sleeping bag that Nansen and Johansen shared when they left the Fram for the pole. High-larious.

[Rebecka · Rating 4 out of 5]

Well, this took a while! This is not only a very detailed journal recording almost each and every day of this journey (which makes you really appreciate how long it was), it’s also a scientific log book of latitudes, temperatures and dinner compositions! Not to mention endless bear, seal and walrus hunts. It’s sad about the dogs they had to kill though, especially when you know they actually cared about them.

[Ali Sanders · Rating 4 out of 5]

Overall an excellent account of a daring quest. I was most struck by the seemingly lighthearted positivity the men maintained throughout, even after some extremely unfortunate situations.

But one thing I struggled with throughout the book was the detailed descriptions of killing polar bears, particularly babies. Of course I realize the necessity of the time, but it doesn’t dull the challenge of reading such information.

[Cindilee · Rating 5 out of 5]

Long but Good

A wonderful adventure with a lot of detail. A very good telling of exactly what it feels like to be a Polar explorer in the 19th century.

[Ivana · Rating 5 out of 5]

Un relato impresionante sobre uno de los viajes scientificos hacia el entonces desconocido Artico! Cuando los hombres eran fuertes, determinados y sabian renunciar a todo por el conocimiento, sabiendose sacrificar CON PACIENCIA fisica y animicamente! Las aportaciones de este señor son infinitas y determinantes para la navegaciòn, la oceanografia, la metereologìa, la biologìa. Tengo devociòn por su legado! Conocì su historia en el Museo Polar de Tromso y en el asombroso Museo Fram de Oslo! Nunca en el mundo moderno de las comodidades informaticas, que han anulado la curiosidad, seremos suficientemente agradecidos a estos inimitables personajes que tanto han aportado a la umanidad con su entusiasmo para el AVENTURA DEL SABER!
SABERE AUDE!

[Olga · Rating 5 out of 5]

Хюгге в Арктике

Зачем же люди устремлялись туда? Туда, на Север, где во мраке и стуже стоял Хельхейм, чертог богини смерти; где находился Ностранд – берег мертвых. Туда, где не могло свободно дышать ни одно живое существо.

Норвежец Фритьоф Нансен был известен современникам как спортсмен, учёный и путешественник, а позднее – и как общественный деятель. "Фрам" в Полярном море" – это его рассказ об экспедиции к Северному полюсу в 1893-96 годах, щедро сдобренный дневниковыми записями, рисунками самого Нансена, фотографиями и литографиями.

--и вот тут мрачный спойлер--
Если вы ждали от этой книги приключений, злоключений, борьбы за выживание и вот этого вот всего – распишитесь в получении разочарования, тут не про это. В основном.
--конец спойлера--

Удивительно, но ощущается острая нехватка трэша и драйва в книге. И вот почему.

Большинству современников замыслы Нансена казались чем-то невероятным и невозможным. Не столько технически, сколько концептуально – через льды положено пробиваться, а не вмерзать в них целенаправленно и рассчитывать на дрейф в предполагаемых течениях. Уже на то, чтобы победить и убедить консерваторов, ушло много сил, но это не борьба за выживание для захватывающего рассказа, а бесконечные препирания с оппонентами и поиск поддержки и денег. Тем не менее, именно этот момент в книге мне кажется чуть ли не самым важным, и уж точно – самым применимым в обычной жизни. Масса критических писем и статей, которые приводит Нансен – и успех экспедиции в итоге – говорят о том, что самых смелых гипотез и нестандартных вариантов не нужно бояться, не нужно полагаться целиком на привычные способы. Нужно рисковать и проверять.

Но риск у Нансена получился тщательно продуманным и подготовленным. К моменту начала его путешествия в Арктику английские экспедиции уже достаточно натерпелись и настрадались в высоких широтах: Эребус и Террор уже много лет как затонули, а наука и техника существенно продвинулись, и много чего полезного было изобретено. Плюс норвежцы оказались априори лучше готовы к суровым северным условиям чем другие европейцы, потому что и сами они северяне, и саамы с многовековыми наработками на тему того, как пережить полярную ночь, под боком. Нансен крайне педантично подошёл к подготовке, использовав и новые технологии, и традиционные способы, и у команды "Фрама" было всё необходимое для автономного существования на протяжении пяти лет – гораздо больший срок, чем нужно было.

Из-за того что подготовились на совесть, а спешить было некуда, в путешествии было – и в книге есть – то, чего ну вот совсем не ожидаешь там увидеть. Это такое арктическое хюгге, или аутентичности для пусть будет по-норвежски – koselig:

Мои ежедневные записи могут, мне кажется, дать самое лучшее представление о нашей жизни во всём её однообразии. В этих записях нет сообщений о каких-либо великих событиях; но именно из описания мелочей жизни и составляется подлинная картина – такой, а не иной была наша жизнь.

Существование на "Фраме" было неторопливым и уютным: исследования шли своим чередом, команда ни в чём не нуждалась и развлекалась как могла. Отдельное место в книге занимают детальные описания ужинов, чтения, моционов. Безусловно, в книге есть и неприятные моменты: в частности это сцены охоты на медведей и моржей, зачастую предельно жестокой, и убийство собак к концу санного похода. Понятно, что без этого никак, но менее тошнотворно не становится.

В дневнике Нансена - человека, казалось бы, до занудства практичного – много размышлений и даже созерцания: только многочисленные описания полярных сияний чего стоят. Даже пеше-санное путешествие Нансена и Йохансена и их зимовка в хижине на Земле Франца-Иосифа не вызывает ощущения драмы, хотя понятно, что нелегко организовать зимовку и не сдохнуть за полярную ночь у чёрта на куличках в тёплой компании медведей, песцов и моржей. И язык повествования соответствующий – спокойный и неторопливый:

Температура держится между 39 °C и 40 °C. Если к этому морозу прибавить резкий студёный ветер со скоростью им 3,5 м в секунду, то надо сознаться, что "в тени прохладно".

Нансен пишет хорошо обо всём: о быте, о научных наблюдениях, о животных. Он также очень достойно рисует, и атмосфера путешествия прекрасно дополнена рисунками про жизнь и льды, портретами команды и собак.

Возвращаясь к драйву повествования: как говорит в книге Нансен, в приоритете у него были цели научные. Это само по себе снизило приключенческий градус путешествия и книги в разы. Цель достичь географический Северный полюс была, но она была опциональной и попасть туда экспедиции не удалось. А так – можно сколько угодно новой информации собрать о течениях, глубине океана, зоологии и даже археологии, но это не добавляет авантюризма. Авантюризм и интрига есть там, где есть чёткая цель дойти первым: до Нансена такое было у Франклина, а после будет у Пири и в гонке Амундсен-Скотт, но не будет вот этого самого хюгге.

Исследователи и первооткрыватели, которые пришли на смену Нансену, пользовались его наработками. Пусть успешный опыт Нансена не помешал Шеклтону потерять "Эндьюранс" в Антарктике, а Скотту – угробить экспедицию к Южному полюсу, но он помог тому же Амундсену. Сейчас, когда простор для географических открытий исчерпан, из таких книг можно узнать, как оно всё было, и опыт жизнестойкости и продуманности лишним не будет.

[Christian · Rating 5 out of 5]

Chronicling the three year adventure of Nansen and his crew on a voyage of scientific discovery to and around the Arctic, a truly fascinating account that deals with both the harrowing aspects of polar journeys and the wonders contained with them. Dense in information, as to be expected, but a must read for anyone interested in Arctic exploration.

[LaurenceC · Rating 4 out of 5]

Un récit d’aventures très prenant.
L’auteur prend le parti de mettre en avant le côté scientifique et rationnel, mais quand même quelle folie, quelle prise de risque cette expédition ! Un seul bémol : pas (ou peu) d’états d’âme lorsqu’il s’agit de tuer des animaux (sauvages ou même domestiques).

[Peter Schmeltzer · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting. Sometimes Nansen gets extremely poetic…

[Paky · Rating 4 out of 5]

Muy recomendable, la expedición de Nansen de julio de 1893 a agosto de 1996, pasó tres inviernos en el ártico, muy próximo al polo norte, aunque no llegaran a alcanzarlo, establecieron un auténtico hito en las exploraciones polares, estableciendo las bases que permitirían en próximos años la definitiva conquista de los polos. En ese sentido, el libro es una lectura amena y tiene un gran valor.
Primero nos habla del diseño y construcción del barco, el Fram, los de la expedición y quienes componían la tripulación, para contarnos posteriormente el día a día del viaje: las rutinas de abordo, los trabajos científicos, los encuentros con la fauna y flora árticas, la presión de los hielos, los problemas de supervivencia y tantos sucesos con los osos polares o las morsas. Pero también nos habla de sus sentimientos durante el viaje, de sus sensaciones en estos paisajes, de las auroras boreales y no dejará de pensar en su la vida en Noruega, especialmente en fechas significativa, en su familia, sobre todo su mujer y su hija que tenía pocos meses cuando partió. A veces resulta algo repetitivo, aunque no es nada extenso.
Hoy nos pueden chirriar algunos comportamientos o afirmaciones, sobre todo en cuanto al tratamiento de los perros y la caza de osos polares con sus crías, pero hay que situarse 150 años atrás y en sus circunstancias.
La expedición se inició en el barco, donde pasaron casi dos toda la tripulación, y en marzo de 1895, mientras el Fram continuó su deriva, Nansen y Jojansen iniciaron la aproximación al polo con los trineos, y posteriormente la vuelta hasta tierra, finalmente a pie y en kayak, lo que les costó durante algo más de un año.
Recomiendo complementar esta lectura con información disponible en la web, principalmente ver las fotos de la expedición y seguir el trazado de la ruta, ver imágenes de muchos de los lugares que se citan. Me hubiera gustado que contara algo más de lo sucedido tras su regreso a Noruega.

[Karina · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fridtjof Nansen's polar expedition to the North Pole was an epic adventure. Hoping to reach the North Pole via the East-West drift of the Arctic Ocean, he planned on freezing the ship in the drift ice and having the current slowly take them. After years of planning, a crew of 13 set off.

Unsatisfied with the distance achieved after two years, Nansen and Lieutenant Johansen left the ship and set off to march the rest of the way north (by way of sledges pulled by dogs and skis). Frigid temperatures and unruly weather caused them to turn back south after a while, so the destination of the North Pole wasn't reached. However, they did succeed in being the first people to travel farthest north. They trekked and wintered on their own for a year and a half.

Meanwhile, Commander Sverdrup was left in charge of the Fram and they continued to drift. After enough data collection, and once the weather was appropriate, they bombed their way out of the drift ice and headed back to Norway. The entire crew was together again in their mother country in August 1896, three years since the start of the expedition. An emotional reunion, for sure.

There's much to say about this odyssey. While reading it, it seemed superfluous with a lot of fat that needed trimming. But all of Nansen's diary entries were significant in the storytelling. His writing also surprised me with how lyrical it was. I supposed his intelligence shouldn't be farfetched considering the polymath's achievements throughout his life (not limited to being a scientist, a diplomat, a politician, and overall scholar).

It's also wild to think of this exploration and the land scaled over a century ago. To think that no one may discover any new land on Earth anymore makes this story so remarkable to me.

[João · Rating 4 out of 5]

These are the personal memoirs of Fridtjof Nansen's famous "Fram" Polar Expedition of 1893-1896. This Norwegian (later distinguished with the Nobel for he's efforts to protect refugees around the world) embarked in a risky and perilous trip through the frozen Arctic Ocean. All contemporary experts declared that he was doomed to failure. Some believed he would be crashed by the ice; some said they would die of scurvy, others believed there was an open water ocean around the North Pole while others were convinced that Greenland extended north to the Pole.

Taking a truly scientific stance, armed only with facts and his brain, Nansen was sure that there was an ocean current that carried drift ice from the north of Siberia to Greenland, and he was willing to risk some years of his life to proof his theory was right and to reach for the first time the North Pole. He studied all possible issues is expedition might face and built a ship, the "Fram" specially prepared for withstanding the strong pressures of drifting ice, the lowest temperatures on Earth, the boredom of the Arctic long winter night, and embarked with eleven fellow adventurers.

In his book, Farthest North, published one year after returning to Norway to huge acclaim, he describes this incredible voyage of scientific exploration and adventure, masterfully combining reason and emotion, scientific data and beautiful descriptions of the northern lights, the bright moonshine lit long polar night and the silent magical ice plains of the frozen Arctic Ocean.

[NeDa · Rating 4 out of 5]

Странно съществуване водим в тази хижа, полузаровена в земята, без никакво занимание. Как сме закопнели за някоя книга! Спомняме си за библиотеката на борда на "Фрам", каква хубава библиотека! Често с Йохансен си говорим колко хубаво би било да имахме нещо за четене тук. Йохансен възди��а за новелите на Хайзе. Преди пътуването ни не е успял да прочете последната новела. Тук имаме само навигационните таблици и годишника на мореплавателите. Прочел съм ги вече толкова пъти, че зная много неща наизуст. За кралската фамилия, за привидното удавяне, за помощта на рибарите. Все пак четенето и на тия книги е утеха. Самият факт да погледнеш печатни букви те кара да мислиш, че у теб все още е останало нещо от човека на цивилизацията. Всичко, каквото сме имали да си казваме, отдавна сме си го казали, не веднъж, не два пъти. Няма мисли от взаимен интерес, които да не сме си разменили. Главното ни удоволствие е да говорим за идната зима у дома. Често се питаме докъде ли е изтласкан "Фрам" от течението, има ли възможност да стигне в родината преди нас.

Сряда, 8 януари. Вчера вятърът отнесе шейната, на която стои закачен термометърът, замъкна я чак до подножието на планината. Навън е истинска буря, която спира дъха на човека, щом си подаде носа навън. Лежим и спим. Опитваме се да прекараме в сън времето.

[Olav · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fridtjof Nansens levende beskrivelse av dagliglivet gjennom tre års ekspedisjon over Nordishavet, innefrosset i drivisen, er fornøyelig lesing. Boken gir et godt innblikk i hans brede vitenskapelige kunnskaper og hans vekt på detaljerte forberedelser. Han tenker rett og slett på alle eventualiteter og planlegger nøye hvordan de skal møtes og overkommes.

De ekstreme prøvelsene særlig han og Hjalmar Johansen gjennomgår etter at de forlot «Fram» beskrives saklig og nøkternt uten noen som helst idyllisering eller fremheving av egne egenskaper. Tvert imot framhever Nansen sine svakheter og tabber, mens det for leseren er åpenbart at de ikke hadde overlevd uten sine store ferdigheter og evne til å tåle motgang.

Boken er en nasjonalskatt som burde gjøres tilgjengelig gjennom en ny utgivelse. Såvidt jeg forstår er den kun tilgjengelig gjennom førsteutgaven fra 1897! (Jeg leste en foto-kopiert utgave av denne).

[LudekLacko · Rating 5 out of 5]

Úžasný příběh člověka který toho tolik dokázal. Nechat se se svou lodí Fram zamrznout do ledu a polárním mořem driftovat několik let směrem k severnímu pólu. A když bylo po osmnácti měsících zřejmé, že loď pólu nedosáhne, pokusit se společně s jedním členem posádky dojít k pólu pěšky. Se sáněmi, psy, na zpáteční cestě pomocí kajaků. Dalši rok a půl v ledové pustině. Nejsem si jistý kdo z novodobých dobrodruhů jištených všemi výdobytky techniky by tohle dokázal, jako Nansen v letech 1893-96.
Před sedmi lety jsem byl v Oslu na palubě lodi Fram. Návštěva tamějšího muzea polárních objevitelů, postaveného kolem lodí Fram a Gjoa byl neuvěřitelně silný zážitek. Do vedlejšího muzea Kon-Tiki už jsem se nedostal. Tam začal můj zájem o historii dobývání polárních oblastí, několik let před tím než Dan Simmons se svou knihou Terror tohle uvedl do povědomí více lidí.
Přečtěte si Nansenovu biografii Farhest North, nebo si zajeďte do Osla na palubu Fram. Stojí to za to.

[Johan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Det går inte att ge annat än 5/5. Vilka män! Som svensk får man ju glädjas sig åt den fräcke skåningen Lars "Pettersen" (Petterson) som utgav sig ha norskt påbrå så att han fick följa med (vi talar ju om 1893 här - 12 år innan 1905 - och patrioten Nansen vill knappast ha med en svensk).
Kan inte annat än hysa en enorm respekt för Nansen. Vilken karl: Klipsk, stilig, kraftfull, kamratelig (inte minst viktigt!), modig och hårt arbetande! Och reder ut sig ur varje situation. Och vilken djärv plan för hela expeditionen (låta båten frysa fast i isen).
Blir nästa unge en son döper vi han till Frithiof!

[Diana · Rating 2 out of 5]

As it turns out I’ve only finished Volume 1 of this book. That explains a lot. There is a spoiler at the beginning of the book that essentially tells you what happens in the end. But as I was reading … and reading … and reading nothing much happened and I couldn’t see how those things were going to come to pass. Well I guess they happen in Volume 2. I don’t think I’ll ever know because I have no desire to go on to the next book.

This book consists mostly of diary entries and scientific observations. It’s pretty boring. I suspect the next volume is where all the adventure part is. It certainly wasn’t in this volume.

[Diane Ramirez · Rating 5 out of 5]

I'm a nut for books on arctic and antarctic exploration. This is one of the most memorable of these books I've read. I still think about this at least once a week, especially when I'm shivering in sixty-degree weather and have to think to myself: How in the world did these guys trek around the arctic on foot with no sleeping bags and no tent?! This is the journal of the captain who was a remarkable man and a poet. This is a long read that can sometimes seem dry and technical but believe me it's so worth it -- no skimming allowed.

[Dragos-Mihai Caraman · Rating 4 out of 5]

In expeditiile lui Nansen a aratat nu doar indrazneala, rezisteta fizica si curaj,toate intr-o masura putin obisnuita chiar la oamenii destinati marilor incercari; el a dovedit, in aceeasi masura, un spirit stiintific, o clarviziune si o metoda de organizare bazate pe un studiu indelungat si profund , fara de care celelalte insusiri l-ar fi dus poate pana intr-un loc al drumului sau glorios, dar nu pana la sfarsit.
Radu Tudoran.

[DropOfOcean · Rating 5 out of 5]

Finished the first of the two books. Even though I know that the second book will be even more interesting I enjoyed first one a lot. Men of that time do not exist anymore, they had such courage and spirit which we, surrounded by our electrical gadgets, have forgotten. I also like the deeper ponderings of Nansen, he often sees how all this what we do is rather meaningless ant-race and that there is something greater, something divine beyond it all.