This is one of the best books I have read all summer. The premise is simple, international reporter is stuck in a hotel room in Amman and decides to try a small bottle of red wine in the mini bar. Not expecting much, he is floored. The red lifts him to the heavens. This is back in the days before the Internet was quite like now... so he struggles with his memory. "Was it really that good?" "Did I imagine the whole thing?" Back home, he is unable to get it out of his mind... like my mom, who has a happy memory of her grandfather's ragu, she can explain it and talk about her feelings eating it as a child, but it remains an elusive memory since she is unable --so far--to replicate it. Begos, tries to pinpoint the wine and his tarvels lead him back to the middle east to a winery run by Palestinian monks (Remember, many Palestinians are Christian). Apparently, an Italian had gotten involved at the monastery/winery not long ago, partly explaining its fine results.
Begos discovers that there is an entire universe of grape varietals that we simply never drink. The red Baladi grape, as well as the Hamdani, Jandali, and Dabouki white ...
It's very sad to learn about the way the wine industry (spit! spit!) has prioritized certain grapes so as to manage the market ensuring the best results for smallest costs. This sounds like a good thing, except that prioritizing certain breeds will not only ruin and kill diversity but could be dangerous because in the arms race with pathogens, it’s really only a matter of time before disaster (like Irish potato famine) if we just keep using the same genetic material we are doomed. We hear this again and again in wine books. It is something that is happening to food in general--unintended consequences from industrial farming, destroying diversity and necessitating the use of more and more procedures to overcome issues, including more and more chemicals.
From the humble baladi grape of Bethlehem, Begos ends up traveling widely from Georgia and Turkey to Switzerland and Austria...he is in search of rare grapes. As if I didn't love this book enough, in one of the latter chapters he ends up in Sicily where he spends time with my own favorite wine maker, Arianna Occhipinti talking about natural wines.
His chapter on the amphora wines of Georgia is very moving--and all in all this is a fascinating book by a charming writer. I loved this book!