Nose to Tail Eating : A Kind of British Cooking

by Fergus Henderson

Fergus Henderson caused something of a sensation when he opened his restaurant St John in London in 1995. Set in a former smokehouse near Smithfield meat market, its striking, high-ceilinged white interior provides a dramatic setting for food of dazzling boldness and simplicity. As signalled by the restaurant's logo of a pig (reproduced on the cover of Nose to Tail Eating) and appropriately given the location, at St John the emphasis is firmly on meat. And not the noisettes, fillets, magrets and so forth of standard restaurant portion-control, all piled up into little towers in the middle of the plate: Henderson serves up the inner organs of beasts and fowls in big, exhilarating dishes that combine high sophistication with peasant roughness. Nose to Tail Eating is a collection of these recipes, celebrating, as the title implies, the thrifty rural British tradition of making a delicious virtue of using every part of the animal. This new edition, beautifully redesigned, comes with an introduction by Anthony Bourdain.

Genres: Cookbooks, Food, Cooking, Nonfiction, Food and Drink, Culinary, British Literature

256 pages, Hardcover

First published May 7, 1999

Reviews

[Katie]

This book is already blowing my mind.

[Kara · Rating 4 out of 5]

A delightful cookbook that for better or worse, makes a lot of things that are probably very difficult sound easy and approachable. It sounds looking cooking with Henderson would be a good time, and it definitely makes me want to eat at St. John's. If only because sourcing some of the ingredients in this is going to be a complete beast.

[Margery Osborne · Rating 4 out of 5]

an interesting read and I can see why it was so influential . the recipes are much easier to follow than later cookbooks by same authors *however* there's quite a lot of recycling. finally I would really like to *eat* much of this food. Not too sure much is practically cookable by the everyday cook. I do still have plans for trotter gear and chicken pie though from later book (essentially its in this book too)

[Mary · Rating 5 out of 5]

Now this is an interesting cook book... Will I try everything in here? Highly unlikely, but I just might be encouraged to brave something a little new and different. This book routinely discusses pig's trotters, various organs, and does it with style. That is specifically why I looked it up. I am starting to very seriously consider meat shopping outside of the grocery store. If I'm going to work with a farmer and a butcher to get a whole or half animal, suddenly I'm faced with deciding what parts I do and don't want and realize that I'd feel a bit bad about being wasteful. After all, many of the parts I might be inclined to pass on are those that that my not so distant ancestors would have relished.

Not everything in here is really practical for me. The game birds, lamb, rabbit, and sea food like skate aren't going to be easy to find, at least not at a reasonable price. Then there is the stuff that just isn't going to be appetizing enough to try. I can't envision making terrines or jellies out of any kind of meat. That is just not for me; my jelly will be from fruit thank you very much.

While I've noted some recipes I think I can dare that call for shall we say more "funky" parts, there are many recipes that do not require a lot of daring. I've noted several recipes for more everyday things that just sound amazing, for example the Beans and Bacon or the very tasty sounding Pot Roast Brisket.

[Rebecca · Rating 3 out of 5]

Whilst I agree with the premise of this book [if you're going to eat meat, be respectful to the animal and make use of all parts of it] the actual recipes chosen to use odd cuts aren't very much to my taste. I think the recipes are (a) too meat heavy and (b) quite 'restaurant-y'.... Some of the ingredients are also quite hard to get hold of!

However, it's worth reading in part because it was such a seminal cookbook, and it's also interesting to compare 'traditional' british cooking to other European cuisines (several of the recipes are similar to pot au feu type things and Italian boiled meats [eg Boiled Pork Belly and Lentils, p78], which I had never really considered before). There are also a few recipes I would try if I was cooking a roast/substantial meal for several people, including Kid and Fennel (p99), Pea and Pig's Ear Soup (p9) and Smoked Haddock, Mustard and Saffron (p.152). There are also some good basics recipes/guidelines, for stock etc, and a few classic British desserts that are worth knowing.

All in all, good to look at but not one I'm desperate to own.. Will update when (/if) I try some recipes.

[Mark · Rating 3 out of 5]

Not sure how to rate a cookbook. That said, I adore Henderson's style of presenting these recipes, the simple directness of his language, the fact that he'd even compile such a book. Yet I'm sure he could do it in his sleep, given that he lives and breathes these findings every day in the kitchen. Of course, having Deep Brain Stimulation (a medical term of art, I reckon) to deal with his Parkinson's adds a bracing irony: A man so besotted with lambs' brains that he included four recipes for them in his book having two holes drilled into his own skull and his brain tickled into shape. Anyway, no mean challenge preparing the home cook for such offal truths as Boiled Belly and Lentils; Sorrel, Chicory and Crispy Ear Salad; Dried, Salted Pig's Liver; and a little thing called Hairy Tatties. It's Fergus who launches us into the unknown, and it's he who holds our hand: of Cured Beef and Celeriac, 'To serve the beef, slice thinly across. You will have beautiful dark red flesh - the color of a fine Old Master comes to mind.'

[De · Rating 4 out of 5]

Truly an experience in appreciating food which we Americans waste so much of. I posted pictures on my FB page when my husband and I brought home a pig's head and were surprised at the number of friends who eat everything a pig has to offer (unknowingly I suppose) but were distressed that an animal had to be killed. My husband and I definitely believe in showing respect to the animals that we eat by eating all of it, not just the steaks roasts and chops in that horrible cellophane packaging. Anyway loved the crispy pig's ears and tails, Fergus is truly a genius when it comes to offal and little known cuts. Ask your grandparents. They know what it's like not to waste any part of an animal, but don't get me started! :)

[Nathan · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a pretty gnarly cookbook if ever there was one, but I like the Henderson's approach to food as far as championing putting "the whole beast" to use, instead of just scarfing down a lifetime of boneless chicken breasts and hamburgers. The biggest problem with this cookbook is being able to find its recipes ingredients, not to mention the fortitude required in order to actually eat the finished product. Thankfully I've located a couple butchers who sale some of this books key ingredients... and the one I've tried so far was actually pretty good. The intro by Anthony Bourdain is good, typical foodie worship too, give this one a shot if you're looking to cook either a little or lot out of your everyday comfort zone.

[Stephanie · Rating 5 out of 5]

I don't usually rave about cookbooks - they are useful tools and can be well-written, not works of art per se.

This is an AMAZING cookbook. It manages to be accessible and well-written despite its elevated and complex if uncomplicated recipes. And I love the combinations and (to me) craziness of the recipes. They are audacious in the best way possible. Never have I wanted to brine a piece of offal in my life, but now I cannot wait to try duck hearts on toast! I only wish I could make a trip to St. John's Restaurant, not sure I trust myself to know a good lamb's brain without trying one first. Plus, even if you're not into offal, you can stick with the pumpkin-bacon soup (yummmmm).

Seriously, if you are interested in food, READ THIS.

[Problemchild · Rating 5 out of 5]

It is no surprise that Anthony Bourdain wrote the preface to the "Whole Hog" edition as this small white volume deals with the delicacy of those parts of the pigs that some would say were never meant to see the light of day.

It is more than a cookbook, it is philosophy, it explores the fundamentals of the pig, the it is the discovery of Henderson's passion for his subject and he guides us with wit and very unique way of walking the reader through the recipes. A warning though, these recipes take time and devotion, these culinary treasures require endurance, perseverance and more than a little love.

[Cinnamon · Rating 5 out of 5]

Since I purchased a half pig and have some trotters, a couple of hearts, a kidney, half a head, and half a liver to turn into something delicious, I thought this would be the obvious place to go for inspiration. So far, it made excited to make spinach and mushroom lasagna, which isn't in the book, but I had the ingredients and felt like a slacker when I looked at the box of mac'n'cheese.

The thing I found surprising about this book are absolutely delicious-sounding vegetable recipes in this book. I expected nothing but meat dishes, but the veg recipes sound just as good as the meaty ones. I've got almost every page bookmarked and expect to make many of these dishes this year.

[Nicholas Aune · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fergus Henderson's Opus. This book is one of the most influential cookbooks of our time. Fergus embraces British classic country dishes that have fallen to the way side and approaches each dish with a respect towards the ingredient . Although they have become vogue now, originally, these recipes weren't restaurant-y. Just simple and delicious. That being said, you won't be able to find a lot of the ingredients at a Whole Foods. It's not a casual cookbook. Knowledge on techniques and how to approach ingredients will be needed. And there's no photos, so sorry no food porn. Then again, it's a must have for a serious cook.

[Diane Ramirez · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Whole Beast is wonderfully written and as a former vegetarian of the "based on moral reasons" camp, the idea of using all of an animal appeals strongly to me. In the spirit of full disclosure, however, I will have to admit that the book must have disturbed me down deep because I had a nightmare that I'm still trying to shake off -- more than a week later. A well-written cookbook that's provocative? That doesn't happen too often. And I didn't even WANT to make any of the recipes...

[Tim · Rating 5 out of 5]

Although I have always eaten offal, or ' variety meat ' as our American friends often coyly refer, Fergus is sometimes attributed as the man who put it on restaurant plates.
Not that this is the only subject of this lovely book. It is said that the only part of a pig you cannot use is its grunt, Fergus sets out to prove it!

[Helena · Rating 2 out of 5]

Intriguing concept, to be sure, but not a book I would actually cook from. However, if you like to use uncommon cuts of meat or are interested in using a whole animal (say, if you just got a whole cow from a local farmer and need to know what the heck to do with the odd pieces), then this book would be a fantastic reference.

[J. Ryan Horan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Worth reading if for Henderson's palyful language alone. The recipes are a little daunting (Eel, bacon and prune pie, anyone?) but it provides a window into the modern re-assertion of traditional British cooking and one of the true figureheads of that movement.

[Ben · Rating 5 out of 5]

Scary and intriguing. It features simple and unintimidating recipes alongside terrifying concoctions I can only hope were born long, long ago in the deepest of Anglo-Saxon starvation. I never thought I'd find myself longing for crispy pig's tails.

[Kathie · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a foodies dream come true!! I had a lot of fun making the recipes in this book and passed several copies on to my friends. If you love food and love to adventure with your food this is a must have! All true foodies have this book. Its like our Bible!

[Patty · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm on page 153 of 224 of The Whole Beast: I am absolutely loving this cookbook so far. The author has written like a cook, not a chef. No pretension or stodginess. Just easygoing, charming, and often humorous instructions. Rarely do I laugh out loud at a cookbook!

[Jennifer]

As a vegetarian, I still somehow have this perverse fascination of meat culture. (see Bourdain, Fearnley-Whittingstall)

[Aaron · Rating 5 out of 5]

not just a cookbook of the "naughty bits" but an essential add to any complete kitchen library. I highly recommend.

[Eric · Rating 5 out of 5]

The book was a great read. I have yet to cook any of the recipes, but will do so this year. Bone salad anyone?

[Dale · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is hard core cooking. Not for the weak of heart, or palate. Ever wonder what to do with pigs feet? How about lambs tongue? This masterpiece has all the answers.

[Johanna Inman · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good cookbook for adventurous omnivores. A respectable waste-not, want-not approach cooking and eating meat.

[Matthew · Rating 4 out of 5]

Not necessarily the right book for my kitchen. But if I raised my own animals, I would definitely consult this masterpiece to make the most of their lives.

[Erika]

An interesting cookery book, and very well written to boot. I'll be the first to admit I've approached it with trepidation so far.. but soon, I promise! Marrow bones ... mmmm

[Cannonhistory Potter · Rating 5 out of 5]

Awesome Christmas gift...especially if the recipient (in this case ME!) is willing to try some unique cuts and some interesting recipes.

[Juha · Rating 5 out of 5]

Just something essential to give you the basics of using the whole animal, a way to think outside the overproduced modern day food.

[Andrea Martin · Rating 4 out of 5]

Love the antique illustrations.

[Heather · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very interesting read but I didn't have the guts to try any of the recipes.