In strict geographical terms, I’ve only been in Korea for a few months now, but psychologically, I’ve been here for years. Back in Canada, I was dealing with Koreans on a daily basis. I worked for Koreans, taught Koreans, befriended Koreans, got drunk with Koreans, slept with Koreans, had screaming matches with Koreans, and was treated with baffling kindness by the very same Koreans. Somehow, these wonderful, exasperating people slowly took over my life. But they’re like that. They get under your skin, in both senses of that ambiguous idiom.
So, even though I don’t always agree with him, I get where Michael Breen is coming from. In The Koreans (clever title, that), he obsesses like a mystified lover about what makes his subjects tick. My only major complaint with the book is that, having been published in 1998, it’s already out of date. Like Baudelaire’s Paris, this country changes more quickly than the human heart. (Unlike Baudelaire’s Paris, it has free wifi). Still, Breen is a sympathetic, well-informed observer, and if he’s not exactly a brilliant stylist, he’s a good explainer. There were quite a few passages where I found myself going, “Oh, so that’s why they’re like that.”
According to Breen, it’s a cliché among Asia-watchers that Koreans are the Irish of the East. I’d never heard that before, but it makes sense in a way. If anything, Koreans have even more reason than the Irish to feel pissed-off and hard-done-by, at least as far as 20th-century history goes. First there was the brutal Japanese occupation—which still rankles, mostly because the Japanese remain so clueless about it—and almost as soon as that was over, a bitter, fratricidal war that left millions dead. Horrible as it was, the war decided precisely nothing: the psychotic North was still slavering away just across the DMZ. Then came a decade or two of grinding, third-world poverty (Lee Myung-bak, the current president of South Korea, was so poor growing up that he was sometimes forced to eat the rice pulp left over from distilling soju; he’d go to school half-drunk.) After that, things were pretty ho-hum for a while: just the usual run of dictatorships, assassinations, uprisings...
What’s so admirable about Koreans, though, is that they collectively said, “Fuck it. Let’s get to work.” With manic energy, they dragged their country out of the stone age and turned it into a thriving, hypermodern democracy - in a single generation. Out of nothing, really nothing. It’s one of the feel-good stories of the 20th-century. Hell, it’s one of the feel-good stories of human history.
So whenever I’m tempted to sneer at Koreans for their crass materialism or whatnot, I have to tell myself to cut them some slack. I mean, what has my country been doing these last sixty years? Pounding beers and watching the Leafs. Christ.