I get pretty excited about learning new things and even more so when it is written beautifully like this book and takes you around the world and makes you feel and know you are alive on a wondrous planet. You go from beaches in Florida infested with high rise condos to a dangerous lawless Mexican beach; from the romantic mystery and fog of Monterey Bay to the practical and hardworking fishermen of South Carolina who protest any regulations to protect anything other than themselves (which I get because this is their livelihood); from responsible and safe ecotourism in Trinidad to the untouched hunter-gatherer world of New Guinea. All to look for turtles. Not to mention the descriptions of nights with more stars and beaches more wild and marine animals stranger than I could have imagined. Lovely book about the ocean too. I can’t get one of the pictures out of my head, of a turtle and a human diver in the water, and I just never knew turtles were that huge. One of the turtle’s flippers looks at big if not bigger than the man, one of them! This book is what I love about nonfiction… It is a travel book, an adventure story, a spirit quest, and more.
“As the last little one commits itself to infinite mystery, the nearest whale lifts its huge head from the water. It seems to be watching, as though checking to be sure that all are accounted for. It’s so extraordinary- this gesture of the whale- so surreal, so tuned into the spirit of the ceremony that it raises hairs on my arms. The little ones have left us, slipping into the lacy whitewater and under the hem of the ocean, entering the great swim, neither to pausing to ask “what if,” using everything they know, with all they’ve got. Life is mostly a story we tell ourselves, but in face all our frenzy is but a quick dash toward the inner rim of a vast unknown, and no more than that….I wonder if this is the end of something ancient or the start of a future regained. I’m not certain what it is, but I know what it means: it means there truly is hope…turtles have taught me this: do all you can and don’t worry about the odds against you. wield the miracle of life’s energy, never worrying whether we may fail, concerned only that whether we fail or succeed we do so with all our might. That’s all we need to know to feel certain that all our force of diligent effort is worth our while on Earth.”
“There exists a presence in the ocean, seldom glimpsed in waking hours, best envisioned in your dreams. While you drift in sleep, turtles ride the curve of the deep, seeking their inspiration from the sky. From tranquil tropical bays or nightmare maelstroms hissing foam, they come unseen to share our air. Each sharp exhalation affirms, “life yet endures.” Each inhaled gasp vows, “life will continue.” With each breath they declare to the stars and wild silence… riding the churning ocean’s turning tides and resisting no urge, they move, motivated neither by longing nor love nor reason, but tuned by a wisdom more ancient- so perhaps more trustworthy- than thought. Through jewel-hued sultry blue lagoons, through waters wild and green and cold, stroke these angels of the deep- ancient, ageless, great-grandparents of the world.”
“Earth’s last warm-blooded monster reptile, the skin-covered Leatherback Turtle, whose ancestors saw dinosaurs rule and fall, is itself the closest thing we have to a living dinosaur. Imagine an 800 lb turtle, and that is an average female Leatherback. It’s a turtle that can weigh over a ton.”
“Poet laureate Billy Collins says poetry should displace silence, so that before the poem there is silence, and afterward, silence again. A sea turtle, suddenly appearing at the surface for a sip of air, displaces water. And afterward, water still. This is the turtle’s poetry, a wordless eloquence stated in silence and, in a moment, gone.”
Archelon was the biggest turtle ever, at 6000 lbs and 16 foot flipper spans and 15 foot body length; destroyed by the asteroid 65 million years ago that decimated life on earth with the dinosaurs, wiping out 85% of the earth’s species. It fell near the gulf of mexico and the Yucatan peninsula.
“One of the glories of any beach is that is it always at the end of the road.”
“Lights discourage mama turtles from coming on the beaches and they confuse hatchlings. When proliferating beachfront high rises began shining floodlights on the beach in the 1980’s, new residents found hatchlings in their bushes and elsewhere hatchlings shouldn’t be, and little turtles by the hundreds were getting squashed in lit parking lots…now residents expect to extinguish their outdoor lights from June thru October. There is no state law, but twenty counties and forty-six municipalities have lighting laws, encompassing 95% of Florida’s loggerhead and green turtle nesting sites.”
“A loggerhead has just turned away after hitting a different barrier: beach chairs. Prime nesting habitat is prime sunbathing habitat. And though there’s a light ordinance, ain’t no beach chair ordinance….the hotels and condos are unwilling to move the chairs back even 15 to 20 feet.”
“At Red Reef Park, Boca Raton’s densest turtle nesting area, nests are packed into the sand at the rate of one every few steps…. This park has a 30-foot-high dune with tall Australian pines that darken the background and shadow the foreground. Mother turtles like this spot…we also find 2 new green hatch outs… and they scramble straight to the water as if on a tight little raceway- just like they’re supposed to. Kirt explains that really high dune and pines break up the skyline and cast shadows. So it’s almost like a condo-.” The park beach is almost as good as if it had a condo! I’ve lived to see high rise apartment buildings become the standard for habitat quality.” So if the condos are responsible and dim all their lights, the turtles are more successful than the parks since the parks can’t block all the light from the towns/cities behind it.
“Beaches here (on Florida’s east coast) get artificially rebuilt every five years or so. Rebuilding one mile of beach requires about one million cubic yards of sand, at five to six dollars per cubic yard. U.S. beach rebuilding costs about 150 million annually. Taxpayers pay for it, and where the houses get washed away, taxpayers pay for rebuilding houses, including some very expensive oceanfront mansions…after repeated pumping, rock or clay remains; the seafloor runs out of sand. Lacking sand for its beach, Broward County, Florida, plans to “set up small experimental beaches of ground up glass bottles.: for over half a million dollars two beaches will be given what officials promise will be the look and feel of sand.”
“People have been on earth in our present form for only about 100,000 years, and in so many ways we’re still ironing out our kinks. These turtles we’ve been traveling with outrank us in longevity, having earned three more zeros than we. They’ve got one hundred million years of success on their resume, and they’ve learned something about how to survive in the world. And this, I think, is part of it: they have settled upon peaceful career paths, with a stable rhythm. If humans could survive another one hundred million years, I expect we would no longer find ourselves riding bulls (having bullfights). It’s not so much that I think animals have rights; it’s more that I believe humans have hearts and minds- though I’ve yet to see consistent, convincing proof of either. Turtles may seem to lack sense, but they don’t do senseless things. they’re not terribly energetic, yet they do not waste energy… Turtles cannot consider what might happen yet nothing turtles do threatens anyone’s future. Turtles don’t think about the next generation, but they risk and provide all they can to ensure that there will be one. meanwhile, we profess to love our own offspring above all else, yet above all else it is they from whom we daily steal. We cannot learn to be more like turtles, but from turtles we could learn to be more human. That is the wisdom carried within one hundred million years of survival. What turtles could learn from us; I can’t quite imagine.”