What do you think?
Rate this book
Perfumes: The Guide
In 2008, Turin and Sanchez up-ended the world of fragrance with their critically acclaimed Perfumes: The A–Z Guide, one of Amazon’s best books of the year, described by John Lanchester in the New Yorker as “ravishingly entertaining,” by India Knight in the Sunday Times (UK) as “one of the best books I have ever read,” by Hilary Mantel as “opinionated, knowledgeable, sharply written and surprisingly comprehensive … a purely enjoyable book,” and by Philip Hensher as "a work of the highest criticism, one which elevates writing about perfume to the best sort of writing about wine or rock music." Ten years later they bring their inimitably passionate, erudite perspective back to the hugely changed world of fragrance, to sort out which of over 1,200 new individual perfumes deserves celebration (and which condemnation).
The 2018 guide includes all new content, including
- “Ten Years Later,” looking back on the last decade of fragrance
- “The Shifting Shape of Fragrance 1918–2018”
- all new FAQ
- over 1,200 individual reviews: masculine and feminine, mainstream and arcane, from the latest Guerlains to a 5-star masterpiece by a small Malaysian firm
- an expanded glossary
- top 10 lists, this time including not just masculines and feminines but introverts and extroverts, the best retro, citrus, oud, and more
The 2018 guide includes all new content, including
- “Ten Years Later,” looking back on the last decade of fragrance
- “The Shifting Shape of Fragrance 1918–2018”
- all new FAQ
- over 1,200 individual reviews: masculine and feminine, mainstream and arcane, from the latest Guerlains to a 5-star masterpiece by a small Malaysian firm
- an expanded glossary
- top 10 lists, this time including not just masculines and feminines but introverts and extroverts, the best retro, citrus, oud, and more
346 pages, Kindle Edition
First published June 26, 2018
162 people are currently reading
455 people want to read
About the author
Luca Turin
15 books60 followersLuca Turin is a biophysicist with a long-standing interest in the sense of smell, the art of perfume, and the fragrance industry.
Ratings & Reviews
Friends & Following
Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!
Community Reviews
Displaying 1 - 30 of 49 reviews
September 21, 2018
Because I am a fragrance lover, I want to like this book. Because I am a fragrance reviewer and critic, I want to like this book. But I don't.
The authors have a lot of opinions, as anyone would, and they give their honest thoughts--which I appreciate. But the problem is not that they like or dislike fragrances, but that they don't explain WHY they don't like or dislike them. Sometimes they do this very well, but most of the time, they don't, leading to a very unbalanced mix of high quality and poor quality reviews. Many times the authors will only use a single word for their review. A single word. Other reviews (usually the 5-star reviews) get pages of text, which are usually great reviews. I say "usually" because it's really hit-or-miss. Many times the authors just write a lot of text about nothing--maybe they met the perfumers or they talk (too much) about some tangential comparison only to talk about the actual perfume for one sentence, which happens far more than it should. Other reviews just dumbfound me at how the authors completely missed the point of the perfume itself, seemingly not even doing any cursory research on the fragrance--like, not even looking up notes. One case of this is when they reviewed Memoirs Of A Tresspasser by Imaginary Authors, by saying they were promised cognac but got marshmallow. But the thing is, cognac is neither in the notes, nor in the marketing, so what exactly are they talking about?
When reviewing things, it's not just important to give your opinions on WHAT you think; it's often more important to explain WHY you think your opinions are true. Even if someone disagrees with you, they can at least follow your train of thought. That doesn't happen here. The authors assume that you should just care about their opinions just because they are self-professed experts with a published book supporting this fact. Why are they experts? I have no clue. It's not like this fact even annoys me, really. But when taken together with a barely publishable book, you start to question the broader context.
Maybe you love this book. But I really don't like it. Even if you disagree with me, I hope you see why I say what I say, here.
The authors have a lot of opinions, as anyone would, and they give their honest thoughts--which I appreciate. But the problem is not that they like or dislike fragrances, but that they don't explain WHY they don't like or dislike them. Sometimes they do this very well, but most of the time, they don't, leading to a very unbalanced mix of high quality and poor quality reviews. Many times the authors will only use a single word for their review. A single word. Other reviews (usually the 5-star reviews) get pages of text, which are usually great reviews. I say "usually" because it's really hit-or-miss. Many times the authors just write a lot of text about nothing--maybe they met the perfumers or they talk (too much) about some tangential comparison only to talk about the actual perfume for one sentence, which happens far more than it should. Other reviews just dumbfound me at how the authors completely missed the point of the perfume itself, seemingly not even doing any cursory research on the fragrance--like, not even looking up notes. One case of this is when they reviewed Memoirs Of A Tresspasser by Imaginary Authors, by saying they were promised cognac but got marshmallow. But the thing is, cognac is neither in the notes, nor in the marketing, so what exactly are they talking about?
When reviewing things, it's not just important to give your opinions on WHAT you think; it's often more important to explain WHY you think your opinions are true. Even if someone disagrees with you, they can at least follow your train of thought. That doesn't happen here. The authors assume that you should just care about their opinions just because they are self-professed experts with a published book supporting this fact. Why are they experts? I have no clue. It's not like this fact even annoys me, really. But when taken together with a barely publishable book, you start to question the broader context.
Maybe you love this book. But I really don't like it. Even if you disagree with me, I hope you see why I say what I say, here.
March 26, 2023
Smart and poetic. If you have ANY interest in perfume, I highly recommend this book. Sanchez’s introduction alone is worth the buy. She delivers a concise and fascinating overview of the contemporary market as the center of gravity shifts away from Grasse and Paris and towards the niche and indie creators around the world. Sanchez and Turin are skilled at turning out sharp and thought-provoking reviews that elevate perfumery as an art form.
August 4, 2021
Upd. Rereading all 3 books by LT/TS side by side in 2021 already with nostalgia - not only many of fragrances has been discontinued, but also some of the whole brands are gone. It is good that they are at least documented in this book. Ok, Luca, here is another star for you from me.
Also I can see now why I was hating this book so much. Luca Turin can tell wonderful stories about the classic perfumes he appreciates, but as soon as he starts grumping about brands that didn't send free samples to him or when he starts bulling Roja Dove, it gives me nothing but inner cramps of cringe and frustration. I recommend to read his The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics, but this one not so much.
+++
I give one star to Luca Turin with the same mindless negligeance as he is roasting many perfume artworks with his arrogant reviews just for the egoistic reason - to entertain his readers. This is very funny boulevard read for the masses, somebody will discover new names and new brands, but not really for the true enthusiasts who want to dig deeper, who are spending a lot of time and money into sampling. Basicaly - are you serious? - at the age of Fragrantica, countless perfume blogs and vlogs, who really cares what this self-absorbed authority thinks. He is mostly writing about himself, not about the perfumes. A lot of repeating. The critic is not analytic and not constructive. We read it, okay, but we don't care much.
Also I can see now why I was hating this book so much. Luca Turin can tell wonderful stories about the classic perfumes he appreciates, but as soon as he starts grumping about brands that didn't send free samples to him or when he starts bulling Roja Dove, it gives me nothing but inner cramps of cringe and frustration. I recommend to read his The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics, but this one not so much.
+++
I give one star to Luca Turin with the same mindless negligeance as he is roasting many perfume artworks with his arrogant reviews just for the egoistic reason - to entertain his readers. This is very funny boulevard read for the masses, somebody will discover new names and new brands, but not really for the true enthusiasts who want to dig deeper, who are spending a lot of time and money into sampling. Basicaly - are you serious? - at the age of Fragrantica, countless perfume blogs and vlogs, who really cares what this self-absorbed authority thinks. He is mostly writing about himself, not about the perfumes. A lot of repeating. The critic is not analytic and not constructive. We read it, okay, but we don't care much.
August 22, 2018
The original Guide had a profound effect on me as a newbie to the world of perfume. This latest version is a snap-shot of the current fragrant landscape rather than an update. There are a lot of indie brands, which is no bad thing, but there were a lot of brands I'd never heard and I tended to skip those. I no longer take LT's opinions as gospel but still hugely enjoy his writing and am interested in what he has to say. The way he translates scent into words is utterly unique and Tania's excellent introductory essay is worth the purchase price alone.
July 12, 2018
Snarky, occasionally very entertaining, but also occasionally a bore. Too many low-rated frags by obscure lines I have no desire to explore, and many lines ignored.
June 15, 2019
The utter subjectivity of olfactory sense trumps the technical expertise of the authors. LT/TS are obviously technical experts on the composition of fragrances and have an (often exasperatingly and pretentiously) ornate, allusional, symbolistic, metaphorical way of describing fragrances. Sadly, the reviews are often colored by more than just the objective aspect of fragrances, and, while that's neither unexpected nor unfair, the reviews do simply end up as lame opinions in more cases than you'd expect in a book backed by substantial professional gravitas.
Then, there are some outrageous proclamations, such as fragrances being cheaper in India to the extent that you can export them back to the US for a profit. Please let me know where in India you got such amazing prices, LT!
The stars ratings are unimpressively unstandardized. A 3 star fragrance might be boring, poorly structured, competent or even very good. Similar variation is seen for 2 star ratings. There isn't much apparent reason for most of the 4 star fragrances to not end up with 5.
Read it for the technical insights. Discard everything else.
Then, there are some outrageous proclamations, such as fragrances being cheaper in India to the extent that you can export them back to the US for a profit. Please let me know where in India you got such amazing prices, LT!
The stars ratings are unimpressively unstandardized. A 3 star fragrance might be boring, poorly structured, competent or even very good. Similar variation is seen for 2 star ratings. There isn't much apparent reason for most of the 4 star fragrances to not end up with 5.
Read it for the technical insights. Discard everything else.
December 31, 2018
Not as interesting as the first guide, I guess maybe I have tired of their rather patronising review style. It's far too easy to give vicious one star reviews of perfumes without actually explaining what it is they don't like about it. And as this judgement, which unfortunately a lot of potential customers see as gospel, is directed at a lot of new independent perfume artists, it's not being very supportive of new ideas. I understand what they mean by comparing it to good and bad art, but constructive criticism is always far more relevant.
And perfume is highly subjective! They seem to feel that their noses are superior to the rest of us when it is quite obvious that they are partially anosmic to a number of perfumes they give bad reviews to as the description doesn't remotely match the general consensus on forums such as Fragrantica.
Though it's hard to not giggle at the diatribe against the awful Black Opium!
And perfume is highly subjective! They seem to feel that their noses are superior to the rest of us when it is quite obvious that they are partially anosmic to a number of perfumes they give bad reviews to as the description doesn't remotely match the general consensus on forums such as Fragrantica.
Though it's hard to not giggle at the diatribe against the awful Black Opium!
October 21, 2021
Maybe the best book I’ve read this year. Come for the purple prose describing scents, stay for reviews like, “[smells like] cat urine” and “now I know what a mall in Hell smells like.”
July 13, 2018
hilarious reviews I can read a sip at a time. half of it is fighting words! as for the other half, while I cannot align my own experience with theirs (with their 2008 guide), it is genuinely enjoyable to witness people being caught off guard by exquisite things. No better treat than this new edition the year I bellyflopped into perfumes.
August 20, 2023
Un classique imbattable pour ceux qui souhaitent en savoir plus sur les parfums et approfondir leurs connaissances. J'ai particulièrement adoré le début où les auteurs partagent leur point de vue sur l'évolution du parfum depuis la dernière édition de ce livre. Le "core" du livre est composé d'une myriade de critiques portant sur des parfums autant "niche" que designer, il y en a donc pour tout les goûts. J'adore beaucoup le style de Luca Turin: indomptable, conçis, écrit avec humour et remplis d'amecdotes savoureuses qui donnent aussi des petites pépittes d'informations sur l'industrie du parfum.
Il ne faut jamais oublié que la critique de parfums est une chose entièrement subjective et que ce que les auteurs aiment n'est pas nécessairement vrai pour tous, mais malgré tout, ils nous donnent envie d'en connaître plus et d'en essayer plus, et je crois que c'est la partie la plus précieuse de ce livre. Chapeau!
Il ne faut jamais oublié que la critique de parfums est une chose entièrement subjective et que ce que les auteurs aiment n'est pas nécessairement vrai pour tous, mais malgré tout, ils nous donnent envie d'en connaître plus et d'en essayer plus, et je crois que c'est la partie la plus précieuse de ce livre. Chapeau!
January 14, 2020
Like the previous version, which I got at Christmas-time, this book rates perfumes on a 1-5 star level. I got this year's book just now as a random late-birthday/early Christmas present to myself. I was glad to see reviews of some of the newer perfumes I'd been trying samples of. Sadly, after several bouts -- or perhaps just one very long bout -- of sinusitis, I can't smell much of anything currently, but I'm recovering, and I think that sense will come back.
At least I have the reference from growing a number of flowering plants and herbs as to what sambac jasmine, damask roses, lily-of-the-valley (muguet), patchouli, dianthus, lilacs, Oriental lilies, etc., smell like. Some perfumes recreate the fragrances nicely.
I have orris (Florentine iris) growing in the front yard, but I don't dig up the rhizomes, just enjoy the pretty lavender-gray-colored flowers. There are some kinds of irises with fragrant flowers, but the fragrances are mostly described as "Concord grape," which is already a scent and flavor reference of its own.
Continuing rather off-topic, in the past couple of years I've discovered that there are fragrant tulips, though I can understand why Dr. Turin wasn't aware of that. The 'Prince of Austria' tulip has a lovely scent. It's hard for me to imagine perfumes which include the scents of Mediterranean culinary herbs, but apparently some perfumers were known for featuring those fragrances.
As with the earlier book, I enjoyed the reviews, which explain the reasoning for the ratings. Some are very funny, partly for the very vivid descriptions. In one review, Dr. Turin reports that Ms. (Dr.?) Sanchez immediately identified a scent as "peanut butter and celery," but he had to keep searching for something more in his frame of reference, which turned out to involve wearing a camelhair coat in the rain to a florist shop and smelling the freshly cut stems of flowers. That seemed like a rather tortured analogy to me, because I thought that "peanut butter and celery" covered it. Turin's frame of reference is very far from mine.
As I noted in my review of the earlier book, Turin apparently enjoys very "animalic" scents. He enthuses over the "barnyard" scent of narcissus absolute. I thought of paperwhite narcissus, and the 'Erlicheer' daffodils that bloomed for me this spring, and I knew what he was talking about. (Off-topic again, I remember a Goth friend, years ago, being disgusted that I was growing daffodils with the name 'Yellow Cheerfulness' -- far too perky in concept and reality for her tastes.) I also understood "indolic" for sambac jasmine. I have a lot of perfume-world words yet to learn, but also as noted, my ability to read written French and Latin is somewhat coming back to me.
I'm all right with some musky scents, and I like patchouli and incense, but my mother would make me scrub off anything that smelled too "animalic" to her if we were riding in the same car, or both on the same story of the house. Oddly enough, her sense of smell seems to have become stronger with age, or perhaps she's just much more sensitive.
So, there are some factors that prevent me from becoming a "fume-head," but I still enjoy the lively and opinionated writing from a couple of people who are deeply in that world.
At least I have the reference from growing a number of flowering plants and herbs as to what sambac jasmine, damask roses, lily-of-the-valley (muguet), patchouli, dianthus, lilacs, Oriental lilies, etc., smell like. Some perfumes recreate the fragrances nicely.
I have orris (Florentine iris) growing in the front yard, but I don't dig up the rhizomes, just enjoy the pretty lavender-gray-colored flowers. There are some kinds of irises with fragrant flowers, but the fragrances are mostly described as "Concord grape," which is already a scent and flavor reference of its own.
Continuing rather off-topic, in the past couple of years I've discovered that there are fragrant tulips, though I can understand why Dr. Turin wasn't aware of that. The 'Prince of Austria' tulip has a lovely scent. It's hard for me to imagine perfumes which include the scents of Mediterranean culinary herbs, but apparently some perfumers were known for featuring those fragrances.
As with the earlier book, I enjoyed the reviews, which explain the reasoning for the ratings. Some are very funny, partly for the very vivid descriptions. In one review, Dr. Turin reports that Ms. (Dr.?) Sanchez immediately identified a scent as "peanut butter and celery," but he had to keep searching for something more in his frame of reference, which turned out to involve wearing a camelhair coat in the rain to a florist shop and smelling the freshly cut stems of flowers. That seemed like a rather tortured analogy to me, because I thought that "peanut butter and celery" covered it. Turin's frame of reference is very far from mine.
As I noted in my review of the earlier book, Turin apparently enjoys very "animalic" scents. He enthuses over the "barnyard" scent of narcissus absolute. I thought of paperwhite narcissus, and the 'Erlicheer' daffodils that bloomed for me this spring, and I knew what he was talking about. (Off-topic again, I remember a Goth friend, years ago, being disgusted that I was growing daffodils with the name 'Yellow Cheerfulness' -- far too perky in concept and reality for her tastes.) I also understood "indolic" for sambac jasmine. I have a lot of perfume-world words yet to learn, but also as noted, my ability to read written French and Latin is somewhat coming back to me.
I'm all right with some musky scents, and I like patchouli and incense, but my mother would make me scrub off anything that smelled too "animalic" to her if we were riding in the same car, or both on the same story of the house. Oddly enough, her sense of smell seems to have become stronger with age, or perhaps she's just much more sensitive.
So, there are some factors that prevent me from becoming a "fume-head," but I still enjoy the lively and opinionated writing from a couple of people who are deeply in that world.
February 16, 2025
Читать про духи - отличное, очень медитативное и немного исцеляющее средство от мигрени. Лука жесткий, иногда агрессивный и жестокий, обладает энциклопедическими познаниями, к запахам вроде как отношения не имеющими. Тани хочется побольше. Теперь надо найти старый гид.
February 25, 2019
I have loved three or four of these authors other books, but after reading this one I'm afraid I might have those three permanent confused looking lines people get between their eyebrows.
There is definitely more snark here and some just plain rude comments.
I read this with the computer nearby to look the perfumes up and quite a bit of the ones they gave 4 or 5 stars to got mediocre reviews on Fragrantica. The ones they bashed, got more stellar reviews on Fragrantica. Just as an example, let's take YSL Tuxedo, in which Luca Turin wrote: "Utterly dull and unremarkable generic guy thing sold for real money". On Fragrantica, it states "4.55 out of 5 with 247 votes" and if you read the user reviews, they seem to really love it! Quite a difference there, and in so many of the reviews between the authors and your normal average fragrance wearer, they are flipped like this.
So what do I take from this book? Wear whatever you dang well love and smells good on you!! While it may be a fun book to read (and you may come away with funny lines on your face) ultimately you're going to buy and wear what you want, no matter who says what.
There is definitely more snark here and some just plain rude comments.
I read this with the computer nearby to look the perfumes up and quite a bit of the ones they gave 4 or 5 stars to got mediocre reviews on Fragrantica. The ones they bashed, got more stellar reviews on Fragrantica. Just as an example, let's take YSL Tuxedo, in which Luca Turin wrote: "Utterly dull and unremarkable generic guy thing sold for real money". On Fragrantica, it states "4.55 out of 5 with 247 votes" and if you read the user reviews, they seem to really love it! Quite a difference there, and in so many of the reviews between the authors and your normal average fragrance wearer, they are flipped like this.
So what do I take from this book? Wear whatever you dang well love and smells good on you!! While it may be a fun book to read (and you may come away with funny lines on your face) ultimately you're going to buy and wear what you want, no matter who says what.
February 22, 2020
I imagine that at the rate that fragrances get released these days, we should expect a new version of this book by 2023, if not sooner. Already it was somewhat outdated when I read it in early 2020.
This version has a lot more niche and artisan brands than the first, and most are newer releases anyways. A lot of Zoologist, Roja Dove, Byredo, Kilian and the other brands that are on everyone's lips these days.
The opening essays were very good, I wish they were longer. Some of the reviews are exceptionally colourful but not very descriptive, which means you'll want this guide if: you plan to blind-buy your scents, you trust Luca Turin unquestionably, or simply want to read it for comedic value. Either way, an impressive feat but not a necessity if you have a decent sense of smell and access to most of the brands described.
This version has a lot more niche and artisan brands than the first, and most are newer releases anyways. A lot of Zoologist, Roja Dove, Byredo, Kilian and the other brands that are on everyone's lips these days.
The opening essays were very good, I wish they were longer. Some of the reviews are exceptionally colourful but not very descriptive, which means you'll want this guide if: you plan to blind-buy your scents, you trust Luca Turin unquestionably, or simply want to read it for comedic value. Either way, an impressive feat but not a necessity if you have a decent sense of smell and access to most of the brands described.
February 21, 2019
As someone said elsewhere online, you can find the same reviews for free on Fragrantica. Often with much more detail. It was interesting to read a few reviews like Hermès Twilly, Elie Saab Gardenia, and the Lancôme Maison line.
January 31, 2021
Больше тысячи рецензий на духи — от пары слов вроде «банальная пыльная тубероза» до пары страниц, все ароматы снабжены рейтингом от одной до пяти звезд. Удивительная возможность увидеть мир глазами другого человека — в данном случае, профессионального парфюмерного критика.
Его пятизвездочники — не топ-100, вроде списка фильмов, обязательных к просмотру. Как пишет Турин, «критика — это вкусовщина, вооруженная знаниями». Парфюмерный любитель и критик находятся в разных системах отсчета — и если нежно любимому мной Cuir Velours Турин ставит три звезды с ремаркой «приятный, но традиционный древесно-восточный аромат», то лишь потому, что через него прошли сотни таких бутылочек, а для меня эта была первой и переворачивающей сознание.
Турин не просто ждет, что духи будут хорошо пахнуть (хотя некоторые, судя по разгромным рецензиям, не выполняют даже этого простого условия), он ищет свежую идею, новые, неизбитые аккорды в рамках привычных жанров, хорошее качество сборки, разумную стоимость и отсутствие маркетинговой чуши про редчайшие компоненты. И главное, он ищет сильных эмоций — что далеко не всегда нужно человеку, который просто зашёл в «Рив Гош». Если пользоваться этой книгой из практических соображений, то (как и в случае с рецензиями на лучшие вина), полезнее обращать внимание на умеренно-приятные «3 звезды». нежели на странных и революционных фаворитов. Впрочем, я сохранила штук пятьдесят разнозвездочных рецензий, и теперь мои походы по парфюмерным отделам стали куда увлекательнее.
Но к черту пользу. Главное, абсолютно невероятное достоинство этой книги — живой, едкий, экстремально субъективный стиль изложения, источник незатасканных метафор и ярких сравнений, желчи, сарказма, а порой и бесконечной нежности.
Его пятизвездочники — не топ-100, вроде списка фильмов, обязательных к просмотру. Как пишет Турин, «критика — это вкусовщина, вооруженная знаниями». Парфюмерный любитель и критик находятся в разных системах отсчета — и если нежно любимому мной Cuir Velours Турин ставит три звезды с ремаркой «приятный, но традиционный древесно-восточный аромат», то лишь потому, что через него прошли сотни таких бутылочек, а для меня эта была первой и переворачивающей сознание.
Турин не просто ждет, что духи будут хорошо пахнуть (хотя некоторые, судя по разгромным рецензиям, не выполняют даже этого простого условия), он ищет свежую идею, новые, неизбитые аккорды в рамках привычных жанров, хорошее качество сборки, разумную стоимость и отсутствие маркетинговой чуши про редчайшие компоненты. И главное, он ищет сильных эмоций — что далеко не всегда нужно человеку, который просто зашёл в «Рив Гош». Если пользоваться этой книгой из практических соображений, то (как и в случае с рецензиями на лучшие вина), полезнее обращать внимание на умеренно-приятные «3 звезды». нежели на странных и революционных фаворитов. Впрочем, я сохранила штук пятьдесят разнозвездочных рецензий, и теперь мои походы по парфюмерным отделам стали куда увлекательнее.
Но к черту пользу. Главное, абсолютно невероятное достоинство этой книги — живой, едкий, экстремально субъективный стиль изложения, источник незатасканных метафор и ярких сравнений, желчи, сарказма, а порой и бесконечной нежности.
December 12, 2021
a lot of fun! would probably have been better had i known more about The World Of Perfume, but i'm on a quest to edify myself
December 23, 2019
Why would you read (cover to cover no less) a book that is merely a list of relatively short perfume reviews? Well, because I'm a bit of a geek about smells and because I like quirky writing. This book does both in spades. Turin and Sanchez definitely have their bias (pretty sure anything with a vaguely smokey or fougere aspect got an extra star), but they also have encyclopedic knowledge of the trade and the history of perfumes. Agree or disagree, but for anyone who is cultivating their own knowledge of scents and modern (early 21st century) perfumes, this is the book to get. Read it with your own tastes in mind and a good cuppa.
August 26, 2018
An absolute must if you are a perfume enthusiast. LT and TS are very experienced in the olfactory arena and obviously are often underwhelmed by the product that issues from the industry. They know the chemistry as well as the artistry and also the fakery and piss-takery.
This volume concentrates on quite a few niche, artisan and independent perfumer's work and rates perfumes according to competency of construction as well as innovation.
Of course we are free to choose what we love and wear in fragrance as in most other things and after all, taste is rather subjective. The taste of the 'mass market' is often catered to in only the first few seconds or minute of a fragrance. Both LT and TS give considerably more time and bring significantly more knowledge and experience to what they consider an art form ie 'Fine Fragrance' as opposed to functional fragrance of your average laundry detergent.
They also bring transparency to an obstinately obfuscate industry and well as killer wit and humour - (thank the perfume gods)!
This volume concentrates on quite a few niche, artisan and independent perfumer's work and rates perfumes according to competency of construction as well as innovation.
Of course we are free to choose what we love and wear in fragrance as in most other things and after all, taste is rather subjective. The taste of the 'mass market' is often catered to in only the first few seconds or minute of a fragrance. Both LT and TS give considerably more time and bring significantly more knowledge and experience to what they consider an art form ie 'Fine Fragrance' as opposed to functional fragrance of your average laundry detergent.
They also bring transparency to an obstinately obfuscate industry and well as killer wit and humour - (thank the perfume gods)!
January 1, 2021
This is the followup book to the Perfumes The A-Z Guide 10 years later, in 2018. This book covers reviews for 1200 scents, focussing on the small firms and producers known as "niche"perfumeries. Besides the Q and A at the beginning of the book, there's a short essay on the shifting shape of fragrance between 1918 and 2018.
I did not recognize any of the perfumes. So if you're getting your feet wet, definitely start with the A-Z Guide.This book has the Index by Star rating and the Index by Brand. There are fewer top 10 lists. They have added top tens for: Introverts, Extroverts, Animalistic, Smoke, New Accords, Retro, and oud.
The big challenge will be finding these perfumes. What is the strategy? What are the best sites for samples? Going directly to the Brand?
I did not recognize any of the perfumes. So if you're getting your feet wet, definitely start with the A-Z Guide.This book has the Index by Star rating and the Index by Brand. There are fewer top 10 lists. They have added top tens for: Introverts, Extroverts, Animalistic, Smoke, New Accords, Retro, and oud.
The big challenge will be finding these perfumes. What is the strategy? What are the best sites for samples? Going directly to the Brand?
October 31, 2022
Less a review of the book, more a review of the fragrances contained therein; kind of a bummer that contemporary perfume is characterised by (I write ‘plagued by a demand for’ then thought it was too mean) clean, light scents and most of the stuff with the smallest suggestions of presence are some variations on an amber/vanilla/spice party. I feel cliched decrying the ban on oakmoss, but would that I could have perused the perfume department when chypres ruled the counters! Alas, I’ll have to settle for scouring the shelves of forgotten pharmacies for dusty bottles and, double alas, reformulations.
January 23, 2019
Perfume and reading are my two favorite hobbies, which primed me to find Perfumes: The Guide 2018 a delight. Turin is a huge name in the world of perfume criticism and his writing style -- a mixture of chemical analyses, history of discontinued scents, and derision for scents that don't make the mark -- was entertaining. Sanchez reviews a much smaller percentage of these scents but I really enjoyed her insights as well. I found the format a bit tiresome towards the end of the book but overall really enjoyed this read. It's made me add a ton more perfumes to my to-try list.
January 18, 2019
I love this follow up to the first book. LT is his usual snarky technical self, of course, but TS humanizes him and keeps the entries funny.
The entries are of current perfumes, relatively easy to acquire, and most of the comparisons are recognizable too.
Whether you agree with the ratings or not, the descriptions are delightful.
The entries are of current perfumes, relatively easy to acquire, and most of the comparisons are recognizable too.
Whether you agree with the ratings or not, the descriptions are delightful.
Read
August 27, 2022ornately and harshly written...worth a read for perfume lovers but there seems to be a lack of consistency in the reviews as 3 and even 2 star fragrances are still considered pleasing, though unremarkable. i share the authors' love for ormonde jayne and kerosene but i admit i am a Black Opium apologist.
December 20, 2018
It was a bit more difficult to read than the 1st one, because A LOT of the perfumes described here were totally new to me. Still, it was great to have the book and raid the perfume stores in search of new stuff :). Very informative and funny.
December 10, 2018
Not that captivated like the first one!
January 2, 2021
Perfume reviews have no right to be this entertaining. It’s a witty, fun read, but start with the 2008 original book if you haven’t already read it.
April 30, 2023
Very well written, these are not only perfume pundits but they also know how to write.
Be advised that only a couple of chapters contain background information on creating and producing perfume - I had hoped that portion of the book would have been much larger.
The rest of the book consists of a large number of actual perfumes, sorted alphabetically, and rated by one or both of the authors. They chose certain perfume from certain houses, and the book is meant as a follow-up to an earlier book.
These ratings are of course subjective, you may or may not agree with any of them, but they're still fun to read. Some get elaborate and prosaic descriptions, others are left with only a snide remark (I can't choose between those two categories which I liked more :-) ).
However, I haven't plowed through the entire perfume alphabet but skipped only to perfumes I either own, or am interested in, or have heard of. Because the book doesn't lend itself to an actual read through, it's a bit like wanting to read an encyclopedia.
So, it's mostly a reference book, for those times you are in need of looking up a certain perfume from a certain house from a certain year or period.
Elaborate though it is, it could of course never be completely comprehensive, since more and more perfumes come out every day.
Be advised that only a couple of chapters contain background information on creating and producing perfume - I had hoped that portion of the book would have been much larger.
The rest of the book consists of a large number of actual perfumes, sorted alphabetically, and rated by one or both of the authors. They chose certain perfume from certain houses, and the book is meant as a follow-up to an earlier book.
These ratings are of course subjective, you may or may not agree with any of them, but they're still fun to read. Some get elaborate and prosaic descriptions, others are left with only a snide remark (I can't choose between those two categories which I liked more :-) ).
However, I haven't plowed through the entire perfume alphabet but skipped only to perfumes I either own, or am interested in, or have heard of. Because the book doesn't lend itself to an actual read through, it's a bit like wanting to read an encyclopedia.
So, it's mostly a reference book, for those times you are in need of looking up a certain perfume from a certain house from a certain year or period.
Elaborate though it is, it could of course never be completely comprehensive, since more and more perfumes come out every day.
December 9, 2021
Luca Turin, we love him, we hate him. He is always somewhere in between being hilarious and obnoxious. One thing I can note in comparison to the original Guide - I tend to agree with Turin more and more. Not sure if that is a good sign.
I took away the star for the partial selection of houses: ignoring some great ones and including some really undeserving ones.
On a positive note, I laughed more reading this than any other book I can think of.
I took away the star for the partial selection of houses: ignoring some great ones and including some really undeserving ones.
On a positive note, I laughed more reading this than any other book I can think of.
May 22, 2023
Interesting read. I bought about 20 samples of the 5 starred perfumes, in both men and women categories. Only one out of the 20 wowed me. In fact, some were actually "meh". So, as writers, their descriptions are intriguing, but what I conclude is...what I like and love cannot be translated into a narrative. Someone else's nose and expertise cannot compare to my own preferences, not even the 5-starred perfumes Luca and Turin find to be stellar.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 49 reviews