“When modern medicine has little to offer, one of the few things people can control is their food. As their illness progresses and they start to feel worse, they will look for any intervention that might help. Many will find advice from alternative practitioners or the internet, often telling them to exclude certain things from their diet.”
Warner, and his learned cohorts, like Goldacre’s “Bad Science” and Ernst & Singh’s “Trick Or Treatment” try to take a sobering and practical look at some of the worrying nonsense being pedalled out there in the celebrity diet community. He makes some great points about how food and dietary choices are so often used to assert class and superiority. Just listen to some people talk about coffee and wine. He brings a bold and pragmatic approach that is an ideal tonic for the wall of waffle we get from pseudoscience.
He shows how people so often confuse hypothesis with theory and the problems that can lead to. Detox, Anti-oxidants, the alkaline ash diet, the paleo diet, clean eating and GAPS all come in for some well-earned criticism. Gwyneth Paltrow, (who comes across like a maniac with a keyboard) also falls between the crosshairs. He doesn't hold back on his opinions to diet or food, his thoughts on coconut oil as a super food were very amusing, “A small, obscure culinary fat with very limited use” that “makes everything taste like sun cream”.
Warner reveals the generic template that so many of these diet gurus churn out, which did make me laugh aloud in recognition. He even makes up his own diet to see if it will be adopted by gullible readers. He goes onto explain many more concepts like regression to the mean and placebos, like Goldacre did in “Bad Science”. There is a jokey light hearted approach with no lack of a naughty word or two in there, but he also tackles some very serious subjects too, not least some heart breaking cases of terminal cancer, that really hit home the seriousness of his point.
There was one argument that I was largely unconvinced by and that was the chapter on sugar. He appears to have lumped all sugars in together, as if sugars derived from fruit were in the same league as refined, white sugar, which I found a bit misleading. We obviously need sugar, but the problem is with refined and hidden sugars, which I think he could have expanded on. He is correct in saying that the obesity epidemic is more than just about sugar, but as he himself even agrees there is enough strong evidence to show the damage caused by refined sugar, “Although the United States did see a per capita increase, and sugar consumption there shows a strong correlation to obesity levels.”
He suggests that big sugar is not as influential as it is being made out to be, “We will have to be so powerful we can persuade the nutritional establishment to spend millions of dollars producing fake science to justify these new dietary guidelines. We will then have to bribe every level of government to enforce these guidelines on an unsuspecting public.” He goes onto say, “Which part of the food industry do you think has the most power, money and influence-sugar manufacturers, or the combined weight of the meat, dairy and culinary oil businesses.”
But you don’t need millions of dollars. In 2016 it was revealed that Harvard professors had taken money to manipulate their findings to favour the sugar industry. As the New York Times said,
“The documents show that a trade group called the Sugar Research Foundation, known today as the Sugar Association, paid three Harvard scientists the equivalent of about $50,000 in today’s dollars to publish a 1967 review of research on sugar, fat and heart disease. The studies used in the review were handpicked by the sugar group, and the article which was published in the prestigious New England Journal of Medicine, minimized the link between sugar and heart health and cast aspersions on the role of saturated fat.”
As well as that it is worth noting that one sugar company alone, Nestle, enjoyed a revenue in 2012 that was larger than the GDP of all but seventy of the world’s nations, so there is little question of the power and influence of these brands. They don’t need to be stronger or even as powerful as these industries. They are not necessarily competing against each other, and they don’t have to, both are more interested in minimising regulation, and maximising profit than fighting each other.
I thought he was incredibly naïve in his thinking that governments wouldn’t allow something into the market that wasn’t good for us. He greatly underestimates the phenomenal power and influence that the lobbyists of these multi-billion conglomerates employ. Taking the US as an example, look at their record on regulating guns, caffeine, big pharma, big oil, to mention only a few areas. If they can’t change gun laws when massacre after massacre occurs what makes you think that they would be any different towards sugar?...
More importantly remember that big tobacco claimed for decades to have health benefits in moderation, using images of babies, Santa and it was endorsed by athletes, and doctors in the US who publicly advocated the health benefits of smoking. They were doing this for years and this was still happening in the second half of the 20th century. These are not the rantings of conspiracy theorists, or paranoid extremists. These are highly educated people with power and influence.
The sugar defence really didn’t make sense until the final third of the book, when I came across this quote, “In the interests of transparency, I have to admit vested interests at this point” I thought that page 271 was maybe a little late to reveal them, but better late than never. “I have spent over ten years working as a development chef in the food manufacturing industry, creating recipes for value added convenience products for a number of well-known food brands.” For whatever reason his interests of transparency stop at naming any of the brands by name, so I will go out on a limb and guess that maybe ‘value added convenience products’ is some corporate Orwellian euphemism for ready meals, stuff that you cook in the microwave. If so, why not just say that?...I am sure you will be aware that these products traditionally rely on a lot of added sugar, salt and other filler, so this may explain why he is so reluctant to speak out against sugar and ready meals.
I agree with him about the important role that convenience foods play in countless people’s lives. Surely only idiots would wish to outlaw them. But again it’s a question of framing. The problem isn’t convenience foods, the problem is the dubious claims of 'health benefits' and of course the hidden sugar, salt and other crap buried away in them. The sheer abundance of it in everyday items and how hard it is to avoid them, especially if you are on a limited income. What is needed is more education, stricter regulation on what you are allowed to put in them, and more transparency and responsibility from the companies who persist to design deliberately misleading labels.
Please understand that is merely a minor gripe, and that overall this was an otherwise excellently researched, at times amusing and enjoyable two fingers up to the celebrity laden, charlatan crowded mad world of fad diets, non-science and snake oil. Warner and his team have done a great job of bringing these dangers, fallacies, myths and lies into the mainstream and exposing them for what they are. Their concerted efforts will help to stop so many trusting, vulnerable and desperate people from being hurt, fleeced or worse in the future, and for that Warner and his cohorts should be applauded.