Zaitoun: Recipes from the Palestinian Kitchen

by Yasmin Khan

A New Yorker, Guardian, BookRiot, Kitchn, KCRW, and Literary Hub Best Cookbook of the YearA dazzling celebration of Palestinian cuisine, featuring more than 80 modern recipes, captivating stories and stunning travel photography.

Yasmin Khan unlocks the flavors and fragrances of modern Palestine, from the sun-kissed pomegranate stalls of Akka, on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, through evergreen oases of date plantations in the Jordan Valley, to the fading fish markets of Gaza City.

Palestinian food is winningly fresh and bright, centered around colorful mezze dishes that feature the region’s bountiful eggplants, peppers, artichokes, and green beans; slow-cooked stews of chicken and lamb flavored with Palestinian barahat spice blends; and the marriage of local olive oil with earthy za’atar, served in small bowls to accompany toasted breads. It has evolved over several millennia through the influences of Arabic, Jewish, Armenian, Persian, Turkish, and Bedouin cultures and civilizations that have ruled over, or lived in, the area known as ancient Palestine.

In each place she visits, Khan enters the kitchens of Palestinians of all ages and backgrounds, discovering the secrets of their cuisine and sharing heartlifting stories.

Genres: Cookbooks, Cooking, Food, Nonfiction, Reference, Culinary, Middle East

256 pages, Kindle Edition

First published July 18, 2018

About the author

Yasmin Khan is a best-selling and award-winning author, broadcaster and campaigner, who is passionate about sharing people’s stories through food.

Her work sits on the intersection of food, travel and politics and her critically-acclaimed books, The Saffron Tales and Zaitoun, use everyday stories to human connection to challenge stereotypes of the Middle East.

Yasmin has worked as a presenter for BBC R4’s Food Programme and CNN’s Perfect Dish series. She is a regular media commentator, appearing on flagship programmes such as Newsnight, the Today programme and Women’s Hour, and writes for a variety of publications including the Guardian, the Telegraph, the New Statesmen, Saveur, Afar, Food52 and Roads and Kingdoms. Prior to her writing career, Yasmin trained in Law and was a human rights campaigner for a decade, running national and international campaigns on poverty and human rights.

Yasmin is also a sought after public speaker who has delivered hundreds of motivational and inspiring speeches around the world on issues relating to activism, creativity, burnout, career change and human rights in the Middle East.

Reviews

[em · Rating 1 out of 5]

I didn’t bother with the recipes in this book after the author mentions “working with israeli NGOs,” “staying with israeli friends in tel aviv,” and notes not wanting to “exclude the israeli experience” along with the map in the beginning of the book being labeled as “israel.”

I have no interest in reading a cookbook about Palestinian dishes by someone who normalizes the occupation. And frankly I’m lost as to why the author (who is not Palestinian) even made this cookbook. I have doubt on the quality of recipes given this glaring oversight.

For anyone looking for a great Palestinian cookbook, by a Palestinian chef, I’d highly recommend Joudie Kalla’s Palestine On A Plate or Baladi cookbooks. The photography and recipes are fantastic.

[Belinda · Rating 5 out of 5]

5 stars - English Hardcover ☘️☘️☘️☘️
This cookbook combines travelphoto’s with kickass recipes. The whole family enjoyed it. We will cook from it reculary, that will be a fact. 😁😁😁
Mazzeh is one of our favourits. 🦋🦋🦋🦋

[Kathleen · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read a lot of cookbooks. Or I should say I skim a lot of cookbooks looking for recipes that catch my eye. This is not that kind of cookbook. This is a cookbook that, like an amazing meal, needs to be slowly savored and enjoyed right down to each delicious detail. The stories and the people the author brings into this book make the dishes come alive and and will stay dwelling in my memory. The food in this book is all fresh, simple, quick and made with very few ingredients. This was a perfect read to start the summer season. Can I mention that cover? Gorgeous! And since meals are all about pairings I would suggest reading Susan Abulhawa's The Blue Between Sky and Water which tells the plight of the Palestinian people with as much depth of honor and emotion as Yasmin Khan does in this book.

[Matilda · Rating 1 out of 5]

How can you write a book about Palestinian culture so badly? By starting to assure your readers on the first pages that you have many Israeli friends and you don't to silence the "Israeli experience", because soothing the feeling of a genocidal and colonising state is the most important thing to do when you're writing about Palestine?!
It's an incredible exercise in side-stepping the issue. She reports what people say about the Occupation, but somehow doesn't connect it to what she's doing? She's hurt by people telling her she's just using Palestinian culture to make a book, but she still... does it?
She find it "difficult" to see people living in an occupied country and being slaughtered, but at least, at night, there's good food? Made by the colonised people?
How tone death can you be to write those sentences? I tried to force myself to finish the narrative parts of the book, but it was making so angry.

[Mady · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reading a cookbook cover to back is an interesting experience! And this one was worth it as Yasmin Khan included small personal stories of her encounters with Palestinian people and also texts about each of the main Palestinian areas (West Bank, Gaza, Jerusalem, Bethlehem…).
I’m yet to try the recipes, but there are many that caught my eye!

I first heard about Yasmin on an event organised by the charity Choose Love. I was quite impressed by her participation at the event and made a special effort to find her work. Totally worth it! <3

[Dean Jones · Rating 5 out of 5]

Vegetables do not have to be boring.
"It's very interesting to me that the concept of talking about equality and human rights for a people - somehow in the U.S.A. this issue is seen to be controversial, whereas in Europe it isn't. That's something I really wanted to do with the book. Food is such a great way to start a conversation, to bring people in over something and connect with, like, beautiful breads and olives and pickles and sensory things that make you feel happy and alive. And from that start kind of weaving in some of the backstory. Because I think America needs to have this conversation."


Vegetables are a key point in Palestinian cooking and if you are a Vegetarian you would eat well in this Culture. With the clever way many vegetables are cooked even resolute meat-eaters would have their mouth water reading the recipes and noting the clever way many foods normally considered boring are displayed for best effect.
The book has quite a cadre of interesting ingredients I was able to learn more about. Freekeh (a smoked grain integral to middle eastern cooking), Fruit Molasses (date or Pomegranate), Za'atar (a favorite spice blend of mine that I have started to use a lot in my weekly cooking), Yogurt (very underrated in our culture, but very versatile I've been finding). Bulgur, Flour waters and other things I've been finding lately in local markets.
Hummus features here in the Mezzeh section of the book and there are some versions where I have smacked my head and thought "Why didn't I think of that!" the Hummus with spiced Lamb (pg 25) and something I want to try very soon. Hummus with lemon and green chili chickpeas (pg 26)could well be a hit at the next potluck you attend. Labneh, a Yogurt cheese that is easy to make I've made it in the past and have started making it again. There are three versions of this easy to use staple (pg 30)that would be something that could have you viewed as a culinary god in your household. The Labneh with Peach, thyme, and Pistachio looks lovely and very much delicious. (Pg 31)
Salads and Pickles are among a few of the recipes featured here that had surprising inclusions. Turnip pickles, Avocado pickles among others were here as well as the colorful Freekeh with butternut squash and kale (not dissimilar to the buddha bowl but better looking), Red pepper, lentil, and tomato salad something that while it would be easy to put together looks stunning at the finish.
Flatbreads with za'atar are something that may look hard to make but are very easy and something you could get your family making. Try this wonderful flatbread with oil and spices and you may find it slowly becomes a weekly part of your family's meals. Recipes like the simple yet elegant Roast red peppers with olives and capers that takes very few ingredients and makes them look like something fit for royalty. Lemon and chili roast potatoes take a lowly tuber and turns it fancy for a side dish that you could eat as a main dish.
Both delicious and delightful to look at Seared halloumi with orange, dates, and pomegranate (pg 53) is just something I have to try, and Gazan Smashed Avocadoes is again, simple and elegant and taking something that I take for granted in Calfornia and make it international. Even eggplant something I normally hate is made tempting by its treatment in these pages. Several of the Eggplant recipes in this cookbook serve the vegetable much better than I have seen elsewhere. 
Soups and Salads are everywhere in these cookbooks and some are very elegant and again simple. the Roast pumpkin, sage, and maftool(a type of pasta) soup is earthy and simple but also elegant and majestic with it's orange and red and green contrasting for the perfect fall dinner. Roast cauliflower soup sounds staid in its American inception, but in a Palestinian kitchen is given star status worthy of a show-stopping main dish. Cauliflower paired with Garlic, cumin, coriander turmeric, and almonds is just divinely inspired.
Meats are not ignored, and Lamb, Chicken, and Fish all get star treatment. Sea Bream with tahini sauce, Lemon cumin, and green chili sea bass (pg 162)are just two examples of incredible fish dishes, as well as Chicken dishes like Warm Maftool salad with za'atar chicken, Roast chicken stuffed with raisins and pine nuts. (Pg 172)
Desserts are not ignored. Pomegranate Passion cake (pg 209)is both delicious to look at as it is to eat, and Apricot and rosewater rice pudding (pg 210) are among a host of wonderful ends to any meal.
Recipes like the ones in this book are a wonder and make one look at how they cook, shop and plan meals for the future. I know that this cookbook will influence the way I cook for my family in the coming year and possibly the rest of my life. I am so gobsmacked by this book that it's just been an obsession.
If I have not yet made it abundantly clear..I am madly in love with this cookbook. If I were not already married I would marry this cookbook as Pee Wee herman would say. "If you like it so much, why don't you marry it!"

Run, don't walk to get your copy of this cookbook today. I'm already at this very moment cooking dinner based on three recipes. Yes, it's that good!!

[Kathy Piselli · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really useful for understanding the different regional cooking. History is bound up in food. The present history could not be ignored, because food has to be grown on land, harvested by hands or technology, and distributed through checkpoints, and politics unfortunately is interested in all that. When I was growing up Israel was a land without people for a people without a land. Or, we were told these were just Bedouin tribes, recently arrived, or nomads just passing through. Food traditions give the lie to all that. I hope this rich culture is never destroyed. That being said, I learned so many useful tips for cooking, and there was a decided emphasis on vegetarian dishes. Very healthy!

[Liz · Rating 5 out of 5]

This would be a worthwhile read even if you didn't cook any of the recipes-- the use of food as a lens to access culture, the photography, the essays, all gorgeous. And so far the recipes I've tried are good.

[elizabeth · Rating 4 out of 5]

I want to make nearly everything in here. Also, 3 CUPS of tahini in a batch of hummus? Holy wow.

[Hannah · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautiful cookbook - one of my favorites if not my absolute favorite. The recipes are delicious and the stories told throughout are a beautiful reflection of Palestine.

[Kaitlyn]

I’m not going to rate this because it was part cookbook part exploration of Palestinian culture. I thought the author did an amazing job telling human stories and shedding light in a very empathetic way on the conflicts in this region and how they affect every day life.

The book ended a bit abruptly and I wish there was some kind of conclusion written. But overall, I thought this was lovely and important. Can’t wait to try some of the recipes.

[Michelle · Rating 5 out of 5]

FABULOUS! The cover is lovely, the photos and personal stories are great, the recipes look amazing! I usually get cookbooks at the library and look at them, but don't make much, sometimes I copy down a recipe or two. I think I need to buy this one, and the author's Persian cookbook as well! I'm completely in love! There are even plenty of vegetarian recipes. Best cookbook yet this year!

[Ambur Taft · Rating 3 out of 5]

All food I want to eat all of the time, most of it I won’t make....I would have to order ingredients online or drive a couple hours to the city, and then I might as well go where they are going to make it for me .... very pretty cookbook though and great for someone with the ambition and a local store with some diversity.

[Kate W · Rating 3 out of 5]

Pretty embroidered cover. Nice enough recipes but not special enough if you have other Middle Eastern cookbooks. Checked it out from library.

[Janet · Rating 4 out of 5]

A beautiful book in many ways.

[L.C. · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic recipes! I loved the narrative provided with each recipe. We only cook game meat and the lamb recipes were great for it! Delicious!

[Diann · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautiful photos. Have tried at least 10 recipes and they have been easy to make and taste great!

[Elizabeth · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a wonderful, thoughtfully written book, containing several great looking recipes and a really good in-depth look at Palestine as well as the foods traditionally eaten by Palestinians.

"[Y]ou can't discuss Palestinian food without talking about the Occupation. About the water restrictions, about the inability to move freely, about the checkpoints, about the house demolitions. This isn't me being political, this is me explaining that the Occupation affects how we eat. You can't escape it." - Essa Grayeb, Rheumatology Nurse, Jerusalem

Therefore, along with describing the food and how to prepare it, Yasmin Khan does not skirt the issues, nor is her writing particularly partisan or one-sided.

The seaside town of Akka (also known as Acre) is just 15 miles from Haifa, yet the differences between the two places could not be more striking. As you walk around the Byzantine cobbled streets, surrounded by an ancient fort, crumbling stone walls and Crusader-era buildings, you're transported to another time. Akka is one of the oldest cities in the world, a place believed to have been continuously inhabited for 4,000 years. [...]
      I arrived in the early morning and began my day walking through the town's old city market just as vendors were setting up their stalls. Fresh fruit and vegetable stands jostled for space with clothing and household goods, as well as handicrafts aimed at the city's many tourists. [...] As the sun rose, so did the heat of the day, so I bought a glass of fresh pomegranate juice and walked up to drink it on the outer edges of the fort, sitting on the rocks that look out to sea. The atmosphere was that of a holiday seaside town and the air carried the salty scent of the ocean. Fishermen were sitting silently on the rocks, patiently waiting for their daily catches. Children carried balloons on the backs of ponies, enjoying short rides along the seafront, while playful teenage boys stripped off their shirts, raced along the walls and jumped 300 feet down into the sea, cheering each other on with their bravado. [Akka]
~ ~ ~ ~
As I waited for my breakfast — the Palestinian staple of hummus, flatbread, sliced tomatoes and olives — I was captivated by the glimpses of ordinary life revealed from where I was sitting. The mothers carrying baskets of wet clothes to their roofs to hang on the washing line; the stray cats running in and out of hidden corners; the clatter of market vendors setting up their stalls; the heady scent of za'atar beginning to rise through the air. [...]
Tall, striking and beautiful, Reem embodies Palestinian passion [...] We met at her house to make fattoush, a Palestinian staple and one of my all-time favorite dishes of the region [...] Reem grabbed a tall, dark bottle of extra virgin olive oil from the cupboard and started assembling ingredients for the dressing. "How does it feel for you?" I asked. "Going through these checkpoints?" Reem sighed and paused for a moment, putting the bottle down. "It depends on how the soldier feels. We have lived with the soldiers for many years now, I've been meeting them at checkpoints in my teens, my twenties, my thirties. I met them as a child, a young woman, a wife, a mother. I've grown up with them. Sometimes the soldier is human, sometimes he's a monster, sometimes he's a sort of god dictating your day. Sometimes he's just a little boy who doesn't want to be there, who just wants to be at the beach with his girlfriend, having a swim or sharing a kiss." We went back to our chopping for a while, in silence. [Jerusalem]
~ ~ ~ ~
They quietly sang Palestinian folk songs to themselves as they dragged metal rakes through the tree branches, the patter of falling olives providing an ambient percussion to the melodies. There was a calm and confident sense of accomplishment as we piled our gathered olives into yet another basket. It was a rare moment of serenity and peacefulness in the olive groves of Burqin, in the West Bank near Jenin. [...] [O]live farmers remain under threat of being beaten and shot, having their water supplies cut off, or their olive groves torched. Olive trees are routinely bulldozed to make way for the Separation Wall being built around the West Bank [...] But despite these hardships, olive trees remain a source of great joy to Palestinians. [Neblus and Jenin]
~ ~ ~ ~
Known today as Muna's bakery, the space in which it operates has functioned as a bakery for more than 400 years and, standing in the corner of the room watching the rhythmic movements of the bakers, I thought of all the history that has taken place outside these walls, while here, inside, the simple art of mixing water with flour and leaven in order to sustain people has stayed the same. [Nablus]
~ ~ ~ ~
The lack of materials to maintain or repair what's left has led to 96 percent of Gaza's water being unfit for human consumption, according to the United Nations, and crippling electricity shortages, sometimes amounting to just a few hours each day. [Gaza]
~ ~ ~ ~
The air felt crisp against my face as I wandered into the fruit tree-filled garden of my guest house in Bethlehem. I took a seat on a swinging bench that was nestled under a canopy of vine leaves, pulling my woollen scarf tighter around my neck to shield me from the cold as I listened to the soaring vocals of the early evening adhaan (the Muslim call to prayer) echoing across the sky.
[...]
Arriving at the café at 8am, we saw tables already filled with of groups of Palestinian men eating. On the steps outside, we passed a metal deep-fryer where balls of falafel were dropped into sizzling hot oil, crackling and sputtering until golden and crisp, ready to be stuffed into pockets of flatbread and smothered with hummus. [...] The hummus was whipped silky-smooth and light as air, pleasingly laden with nutty tahini. Mine arrived with musabaha topping, a glistening heap of lemony chickpeas adorning the purée, and finished with a thick slick of extra virgin olive oil. Chunky slices of tomatoes, onions, brined cucumber pickles and hot green chillies arrived, as well as a fiery red pepper sauce [...] [S]mooth hummus and crunchy falafel provided a riot of textures and flavors. [Bethlehem]

Bookmarked - some of these we've already made and they are keepers
» Peach, thyme and pistachio with labneh (breakfast), p.31
» Olive, fig and honey tapenade, p.35
» Flatbreads with za'atar Mana'eesh, p.38 "These tangy flatbreads are the number one snack food in Palestine"
» Arabic flatbreads Khubz, p.41 "These soft, chewy flatbreads are used as a utensil at the Palestinian table, where they are put to good use scooping up the vast array of tantalising small dishes and dips"
» Roast okra with spicy tomatoes Bamiyeh, p.47
» Lemon and chilli roast potatoes Batata Harra, p.49
» Seared halloumi with orange, dates and pomegranate, p.53 "a ray of sunshine on a plate, transporting you to the warm shores of the Mediterranean"
» Gazan smashed avocados "When Ahmed made this for me, he called it the "Gazan guac"", p.54
» Green beans with olive oil Fasolia bi Zait, p.50
» Spinach and feta parcels Fatayer Sabanekh, p.58
» Falafel, p.61 "Make a batch of these once and you'll never be able to eat the mealy, dry, shop-bought version again." (Reading this recipe lead us to the best dinner ever)
» Quick pickled avocados, p.63 (Wow!)
» Pickled turnips with beet, p.64
» Roast Romanesco cauliflower with tahini and pomegranates, p.78
» Roast rainbow carrots with herbed yogurt, p.84
» Fattoush, p.87
» Roast cauliflower soup, p.115
» Red lentil and squash soup with za'atar croutons, p.117
» Lentil soup with walnut and cilantro smash Shorbat Adas, p.120
» Kale, fennel and noodle soup Rishta, p.123
» Freekeh and pinto bean soup Shorbat Freekeh, p.124
» Knafeh, p.129
» Upside-down rice with eggplants and peppers Maqloubeh, p.142
» Roast eggplant with spiced chickpeas and tomatoes Musaka'a, p.136 "This dish is etched in my memory forever after a magical moonlit evening spent in the garden of Sumood wa Hurriya."
» Brown rice and lentil pilaf with crispy fried onions Mujaddara, p.152
» Spicy shrimp and tomato stew Zibdiyit Gambari, p.158
» Akkawi spiced crispy squid, p.163
» Warm maftool salad with za'atar chicken, p.172
» Spiced chicken with dried lime pilaf Mashbous, p.176
» Roast chicken stuffed with raisins and pine nuts Djaj Mahshi, p.174
» Roast chicken with sumac and red onions Mussakhan, p.179
» Layered chicken and flatbread feast with yogurt and chickpeas Fatteh Djaj, p.180

Bread has a special place in Palestinian cuisine: not only does it form an essential component of meals, but the act of breaking bread with another person symbolizes connection and friendship. "The bread and salt between us" is a popular phrase in Arabic, referring to a bond built on respect and comradeship through eating together. [Haifa]

+ + + + +

If half stars were allowed, the rating would be 4.5. The main reason for losing the half point is the editors' bizarre habits of excluding water from the ingredients lists (with the exception of bread recipes) when water is an integral component. This is particularly strange when one considers the water shortages that many Palestinians experience.

Another oddity is that Yasmin Khan calls for "gluten-free chicken stock" in many of her soup recipes. This is a most interesting specification; when does any stock ever contain gluten?

A helpful oddity for the people of today - many of whom have dietary restrictions, at the back of the book, there are lists of recipes that are dairy-free, gluten-free, or vegan.

[Lee · Rating 3 out of 5]

The best part about this cookbook is the pictures. Both the food and the scenery and kitchens featured were picturesque. The narrative describing the author’s travels and encounters with the various cooks, chefs and grandmothers, social workers and brewers, all felt somewhat flat - one dimensional - like the actual conversations had been highly edited for blandness. Rarely was religion ever mentioned; it was as if all of the people agreed to remain silent on this topic. Once or twice it slips in, such as one older woman who grew up going to the Al Aqsa mosque on Jerusalem mentioned how much she loved it there, but her memories were merely of playing in the tree-shaded courtyard. Immediately following that remembrance they all went to a local family brewery for a couple of beers. It is my understanding that alcohol in any form or amount is forbidden. 🤷🏼‍♀️
The recipes that I tried in this cookbook were all just average. I have other Mediterranean cookbooks with better versions of most of what is presented in this cookbook. Since I am strictly gluten free I did not try any of the breads or cakes so they may have been better. The volume of hummus in their recipe is enormous and you’d better like it because you have enough for a small army.
I am glad I read the whole thing because I needed to hear “the other side” of the story of the people living in this very tumultuous land, however carefully curated and filtered.

[Liquidlasagna · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is the best kind of cookbook, one which tells you about people through the stories of their food. Compelling reading, gorgeous pictures—and the most delicious recipes. I can’t wait to start cooking.
Ruth Reichl

This is a politically engaged and hungry travelogue, and it is also an inspirational recipe book, and one that anyone who loves food will want to cook from, will need to cook from.
Nigella Lawson

[Christina · Rating 4 out of 5]

I learned so much about Palestine in reading this book, and feel inspired to learn more. I really appreciate the accessibility of so many of these recipes and look forward to trying them. The lemon and chili roast potatoes were a revelation! The book is also visually stunning, as much an art piece as a cooking guide.

[Talea · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lots of new to me recipes that incorporate new flavors and experiences. I can’t wait to try them. The pictures of the recipes are mouth watering good. The introduction to Palestinian cooking essentials and regions are not just informative but are enjoyable.

[Emily · Rating 4 out of 5]

Beautiful pictures, well-written recipes. It made me hungry just reading it.

[Belinda Vlasbaard · Rating 4 out of 5]

4 stars - English Ebook

Great read and great recipes from a part of the world I never traveled to but get to know by this beautiful book full of wonderful food and photo's.

[Offbalance · Rating 3 out of 5]

Like The Saffron Tales, this is an incredible collection of recipes from a region that could use a fairer, and more accurate examination. It's full of beautiful photographs and amazing stories, and the recipes gave the reader a very detailed look at the Palestinian people. Still, I was not sure I felt up to trying some of these at home (although I am hoping I cross paths with a good Palestinian restaurant, and soon!)

[Katie Bee · Rating 4 out of 5]

A beautiful cookbook with many recipes that look absolutely delicious. My only qualm is with the sheer amount of olive oil constantly being called for, which seems extremely liberal to me. (Probably makes it taste divine, though!)

[Rhonda Hankins]

Trip to specialty grocery store required to get the ingredients for these recipes, but well worth the effort. Everything my husband has prepared from this book has been exceptionally tasty and distinctive. This is a whole new cuisine for me and I think it is great, suits my taste buds very nicely.

[Deirdre · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautifully written and lushly illustrated, this is more than a cookbook of Palestinian food. Khan’s essays about her experiences meeting with Palestinians both in the Middle East and in the diaspora paint a human face on a complex political problem.

[Ellen · Rating 4 out of 5]

This books has many recipes which I would like to try.

This is a book which I would like to explore more, but it is due back at the library because there are other reservations on it.

[Michele Evola · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent recipes with travel stories. A perfect way to spend an afternoon.