Making Pilgrimages: Meaning and Practice in Shikoku

by Ian Reader

This study involves a fourteen-hundred-kilometer-long pilgrimage around Japan’s fourth largest island, Shikoku. In traveling the circuit of the eighty-eight Buddhist temples that make up the route, pilgrims make their journey together with Kôbô Daishi (774–835), the holy miracle-working figure who is at the heart of the pilgrimage.

Once seen as a marginal practice, recent media portrayal of the pilgrimage as a symbol of Japanese cultural heritage has greatly increased the number of participants, both Japanese and foreign. In this absorbing look at the nature of the pilgrimage, Ian Reader examines contemporary practices and beliefs in the context of historical development, taking into account theoretical considerations of pilgrimage as a mode of activity and revealing how pilgrimages such as Shikoku may change in nature over the centuries.

This rich ethnographic work covers a wide range of pilgrimage activity and behavior, drawing on accounts of pilgrims traveling by traditional means on foot as well as those taking advantage of the new package bus tours, and exploring the pilgrimage’s role in the everyday lives of participants and the people of Shikoku alike. It discusses the various ways in which the pilgrimage is made and the forces that have shaped it in the past and in the present, including history and legend, the island’s landscape and residents, the narratives and actions of the pilgrims and the priests who run the temples, regional authorities, and commercial tour operators and bus companies.

In studying the Shikoku pilgrimage from anthropological, historical, and sociological perspectives, Reader shows in vivid detail the ambivalence and complexity of pilgrimage as a phenomenon that is simultaneously local, national, and international and both marginal and integral to the lives of its participants. Critically astute yet highly accessible, Making Pilgrimages will be welcomed by those with an interest in anthropology, religious studies, and Japanese studies, and will be essential for anyone contemplating making the pilgrimage themselves.

Genres: Japan, History

368 pages, Paperback

First published February 28, 2005

About the author

Ian Reader is Emeritus Professor of Religious Studies at the University of Manchester, UK.

Reviews

[Caelan Stafford · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed learning about the Shikoku henro and the lore of Kobo Daishi surrounding it, and appreciated the copious comparisons to pilgrimages in other religions, especially those comparisons to Christianity, which I am personally more familiar with. I also enjoyed the pictures and maps provided as they helped to visualize and clarify what the author writes. However, I think this ethnography could’ve been made more accessible and interesting to a broader audience if it had more pictures; more concise and easier to understand explanations using simpler vocabulary when possible; provided definitions for religious, especially Buddhism-specific, terminology that not everyone may not know. Also, I wish that the author put the ideograms alongside the romanization of terminology when it is used because it was annoying to flip to the glossary every time just to see what the kanji is. The ideograms help me, since I know some Japanese, to remember the meaning of the terms which can’t be known from the romanized version alone.

[Mae Langston · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book offers an in-depth and intimate look into a unique religious experience. The author is effective at providing concise context for the Shikoku pilgrimage, and explained why so many people are willing and dedicated to partake in it. The main themes as well as basic elements of the pilgrimage, such as bathroom accessibility and the stamping of pilgrims’ books, are thoroughly explained. However, Reader does make several assumptions throughout the book that may be challenging for someone new to the study to reconcile with. That being said, I was especially impressed by Reader’s ability to use comparison to create descriptive imagery. When discussing the meaning and experience of the pilgrims’ journeys, Reader contrasts nature and themes of beauty to traffic and infrastructure. I thought this did a great job of highlighting the culture, society, and environment of Japan, and just how unique this Shikoku experience is within that context.

[Eva · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book provides a detailed description of Shikoku Henro, a popular pilgrimage on a small island in Japan. Throughout the book, the author gives explanations of traditions, such as the customary white clothing and different ways to travel, as well as the reasons people go on this pilgrimage. The author's accounts of other people’s personal traditions and reasons for going were my favorite part of the book. I felt more engaged with the content because it wasn’t as cut and dry as a textbook.

I found it very interesting how lenient the rules are for making the pilgrimage. Specifically, the modes of transportation between Shrines, and how people can start and stop pilgrimaging whenever they want. I feel like this aspect of Shikoku Henro helps with its popularity because it makes it more inclusive for people with disabilities, jobs, or children. It’s very different from other religious traditions I’ve been a part of that have more strict rules.

[Nikko Sakakimori · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ian Reader provides an interesting analysis of the Shikoku henro by examining it through the lens of various individuals that have embarked on this pilgrimage. Perhaps most interesting is the huge variety in the procedure and motivations of the individuals that partake in this pilgrimage, perhaps emphasizing the incredibly idiosyncratic nature of much of religious activity in Japan. Reader also makes some comparisons to pilgrimages from other religious traditions, to help provide a frame of reference for the reader, as well as to set his own arguments. Quite a significant portion of the book will make use of kanji quite regularly, and while I was able to read and understand a portion of them, it can make for something of a difficult read for those that may not be able to read kanji at all. In any case, however, it’s quite clear that the author is incredibly passionate about this topic, resulting in this enjoyable but admittedly somewhat challenging read.

[Ziwen Guo · Rating 4 out of 5]

Overall, I found the content of the book to be eye opening and the details that went into describing the pilgrimages are very interesting. However, one major problem I had with this book was that reading it was a constant struggle, as it frequently introduces Japanese words in hiraganas, sometimes without explanation, and other times the same word can be used multiple times spanning across the book, and by the time I read the word again, I would already forget what the word meant. However, the book still offered me great insight into the fascinating stories about how people make pilgrimages in Japan, especially it completely changed my stereotypical impressions toward those devoted believers who were supposed to be all sacred and serious, as the stories such as people getting beers during day times despite it being considered disrespectful really and them arguing about the actions humanize the characters presented in the book.

[maddie · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed the depth into which this book discussed the varying practices (religious and not), methodology, routes, and goals that go into an individual's Shikoku pilgrimage, as well as the various accounts included from pilgrims that exemplify what it means to different people. The book's organization and Reader's clear interest in the topic made it enjoyable to read, though it could get a little weighed down in more academic or overly-specific speech at times. I did like that Reader addressed many aspects that create significance on the pilgrimage, like assimilated sites outside of the 88 temples. I feel that the inclusion and comparison of other pilgrimage routes outside of Japan also did a nice job of articulating his arguments. Overall, the book is an interesting take on pilgrimages, the Shikoku henro specifically, and its importance to those who embark upon it.

[Max Cioci · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book provided thorough and engaging information all about the phenomenon of the Shikoku Henro, as well as Reader's personal experiences on his multiple trips to Shikoku. Reader attempts to conceptualize the Shikoku Henro in relation to pilgrimages of other religions by detailing its differences, such as the purposes people have for making the journey and the means by which it is completed. I really appreciated how Reader provided firsthand evidence by giving multiple accounts of others who he met during his journeys; it emphasized the large diversity of experiences among those on the pilgrimage, what it means to them, and their approaches to it. Additionally, I found the book to be engaging and fairly easy to follow, which made it an enjoyable way to enrich my knowledge of the Japanese religious and spiritual realm.

[Elvin · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book provides an exceptionally thorough examination of the history and evolution of the Shikoku Island pilgrimage. A majority of the text centers around the author’s own experience performing the pilgrimage and excerpts from interviews conducted with other pilgrims, Buddhist priests, and locals. This approach makes for an informative yet generally entertaining read. However, the author also makes somewhat abrupt changes between anecdotes and sections with a more formal academic treatment. At times, it feels like points are being belabored and if you are not already familiar with Japanese, you may find yourself frequently flipping between pages to remember definitions. Nonetheless, this is a great book with an interesting approach for those interested in any aspect of the pilgrimage, including the daily lives of pilgrims.

[Nicholas Williamson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reader takes on an enjoyable approach into their experiences and the experiences of others to formulate the changes of the pilgrimages over time; from traditional to a modernized way. For those more familiar with other religions, it does make comparisons with how those pilgrimages go about. The supplemental imagery also enhances the reading experience. Although it is a great read for those who may or may not be familiar with Japanese, there can be more accessibility for those who are not that academic going into it. Even still, it makes it an accessible read, slightly trivializing the academic side, making it an odd blend between the two, but this shouldn't be a huge concern. Overall, this is a very entertaining read.

[Maddie Nosek · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed how thorough the author was in his explanation of not only the religious side, but the several different aspects of the Shikoku pilgrimage. I appreciated the comparisons to other religions, and I felt that the author did a good job of being respectful to them. I definitely favored the accounts from the pilgrims because instead of just having Reader’s words coming at you on a page, there were real accounts detailing how Shikoku has touched real people. However on the contrary when it was just Reader’s writing sometimes it felt a little heavy and there wasn’t the spice that leaves readers engaged. I’m glad I learned new things, but if I was contemplating on making the pilgrimage and I read this book I’m not 100% sure if would be my convincing factor.

[Lacee Lou · Rating 3 out of 5]

I found Making Pilgrimages to be pretty interesting and was glad to gain a more in-depth knowledge on the subject. I especially enjoyed the context in which the author discussed the progression of pilgrimages. In this way, it was nice to take a look at what we traditionally think of as pilgrimages versus what modernity has made pilgrimages into. My only complaint was that the terminology used became a bit long-winded at times. This book was definitely somewhere in between an academic text and one meant for a broader audience, so I think it would be important to reflect on who the book is intended for, should the author write another. Overall, I’m glad that I read this book and was able to understand a viewpoint of pilgrimages to which I hadn’t yet been exposed.

[Joshua · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed the author’s explanation of the Shikoku Henro. The many varied ways in which the people make the pilgrimage is fascinating. From the earliest pilgrim’s several-week journey on foot to the modern bus pilgrimages, the entire undertaking is interesting. The idea that some people take the pilgrimage throughout the year is also interesting. The fact that they feel they are always on the pilgrimage is cool. I think the author’s hands-on experience really helps to convey the sense of peace and tranquility that the pilgrimage provides to the pilgrims. I also found it interesting that each temple has a name and a number because they are supposed to be visited in a specific order.

[Maria · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent ethnographic study of modern pilgrimage practices concerning the 88-Temple Pilgrimage on Shikoku island. The author uses his own experiences, plus records of others, while also looking at the history of this pilgrimage and how it evolved over time.

[Todd Wassel · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a great read for those interested in the more academic side of the pilgrimage. It explore the liminal space that the pilgrim (henro in this case) occupies between the physical and spiritual world.

[David · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reader offers a multi-disciplinary approach to pilgrimage that interrogates it as a process that begins long before the journey and continues long after the journey is ended. He frames his arguments within current pilgrimage studies debates, but never allows theoretical frameworks to dictate his particular findings. A great read even for those who do not study Japanese religions!

[Eva · Rating 5 out of 5]

Cool mix of history and ethnography :)