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Pie Fidelity: In Defence of British Food
\In Britain, we have always had an awkward relationship with food. We've been told for so long that we are terrible cooks and yet when someone with a clipboard asks us what the best things are about being British, our traditional food and drink are more important than the monarchy and at least as significant as our landscape and national monuments in defining a collective notion of who we are.
Taking nine archetypically British dishes - Pie and Peas, A Cheese Sandwich, Fish and Chips, Spag Bol, Devonshire Cream Tea, Curry, The Full English, The Sunday Roast and a Crumble with Custard - and enjoying them in their most typical settings, Pete Brown examines just how fundamental food is to our sense of identity, perhaps even our sense of pride, and the ways in which we understand our place in the world.
Taking nine archetypically British dishes - Pie and Peas, A Cheese Sandwich, Fish and Chips, Spag Bol, Devonshire Cream Tea, Curry, The Full English, The Sunday Roast and a Crumble with Custard - and enjoying them in their most typical settings, Pete Brown examines just how fundamental food is to our sense of identity, perhaps even our sense of pride, and the ways in which we understand our place in the world.
256 pages, Hardcover
Published March 28, 2019
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Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews
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July 25, 2021Update Does anyone remember the Perishers and Marlon's chip butty (weaponised with ketchup)? The author is not happy about chips (fries to Americans) being dipped in mayonnaise a la the Belgians and Dutch, but does approve of chip butties with ketchup. And says, "The smell of vinegar evaporating from steaming hot chips is one of the most rousing scents in the world." It is but it makes them soft. I like my chips crisp on the outside, the author likes his ... soggy. How can anyone like soft chips and not nice crisp crunchy ones I don't know. I know they go soggy in a chip butty, but that's different.
Bread, margarine and fat chips with a little malt vinegar on them thickly topped with ketchup is paradisical, but I would love the butty just as much with mayonnaise instead
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"We used to cut our sandwiches horizontally. Then, one day, it occurred to me that the sandwich might be more pleasant to eat, a little neater, if I cut it diagonally, into triangles rather than rectangles, like I'd seen it done in shops and cafes. 'Look at you, cutting your sandwich all posh,' sneered my little brother."... "I could have gone even posher and cut the vulgar crusts off, then they would have been really sophisticated. If I'd gone completely mental, cut the crusts off first and then cut my cheese sandwich into rectangular fingers about an inch wide and four inches long, they'd have looked very similar to the sandwiches I was served at Fortnum & Mason when I was a judge for their Food and Drink Awards." Essentially, the evolution from working class kitchen to the upper echelons of sandwiches.
If you are British and can't identify with horizontal v diagonally cut sandwiches and how one is 'kitchen' and one is people invited for tea (crusts on or off), then I want to know why not? If you are an American and can identify with it in any way, then I want to know all about US sandwich cutting habits.
I've hardly started the book and I love it already. Pete Brown is such a good writer. The depth of his insights and his humour and his typical-Britishims have be laughing out loud and copying them down (in order to relay them here).
Bread, margarine and fat chips with a little malt vinegar on them thickly topped with ketchup is paradisical, but I would love the butty just as much with mayonnaise instead
____________________
"We used to cut our sandwiches horizontally. Then, one day, it occurred to me that the sandwich might be more pleasant to eat, a little neater, if I cut it diagonally, into triangles rather than rectangles, like I'd seen it done in shops and cafes. 'Look at you, cutting your sandwich all posh,' sneered my little brother."... "I could have gone even posher and cut the vulgar crusts off, then they would have been really sophisticated. If I'd gone completely mental, cut the crusts off first and then cut my cheese sandwich into rectangular fingers about an inch wide and four inches long, they'd have looked very similar to the sandwiches I was served at Fortnum & Mason when I was a judge for their Food and Drink Awards." Essentially, the evolution from working class kitchen to the upper echelons of sandwiches.
If you are British and can't identify with horizontal v diagonally cut sandwiches and how one is 'kitchen' and one is people invited for tea (crusts on or off), then I want to know why not? If you are an American and can identify with it in any way, then I want to know all about US sandwich cutting habits.
I've hardly started the book and I love it already. Pete Brown is such a good writer. The depth of his insights and his humour and his typical-Britishims have be laughing out loud and copying them down (in order to relay them here).
July 8, 2021
At the beginning of lockdown number 1, I was wandering through Waitrose last year I paused by a fairly empty shelf and I was surprised by seeing something on the shelf that I never expected to see; a Fray Bentos pie. Two things surprised me about this, one that they still existed and secondly that it was in Waitrose. It has been a while since I had one of those. And I think it was only ever one that I had…
You are what you eat is that well-known phrase that springs to mind, and on one level we very much are the sum of all the things we pop in our mouth. But on a different level, the things that we would call our favourite foods also define us as a person and make our class and the are we live very easily identifiable. When we think of India and its curries, France and the cheeses and gourmet foods and Belgium would be mussels and chips with mayonnaise. But what foods would you use to define Britain?
This was a question that Pete Brown often asked himself and it got him thinking. He was born and brought up in the north but now lives a London life. Couple that with his work as a food and drink journalist he has tried and drunk many different things, but he still has his favourites. Narrowing it down to eight different things to put in the book wasn’t going to be easy.
In the end, he made his choice of the meals that he wanted to include that he considered defined him and he considered were classic British dishes. These were Pie and Peas, cheese sandwiches, fish and chips, spaghetti Bolognese, a west country cream tea, curry, a full English breakfast and of course the classic roast followed by a Rhubarb crumble.
He decided that he wants to eat a typical example of each so rather than just wander out into the local area he decides to travel a little of the country to see the sights, meet the locals who make these things and most importantly eat. He heads to Blackpool to eat fish and chips, eats curries in Birmingham and enjoys decided whether it is the cream or jam first in Devon. He persuades two friends to make their version of spag bol and then decides to recreate the version he made as a teenager for his family. Searching for the typical cheese sandwich takes a little longer and the debate as to what you must include in a full English breakfast will run and run.
Each of his chosen meals has a chapter dedicated to it and he talks about the cultural and history behind it as well as eating an awful lot of really good food. I thought that this was another really good book from the pen of Pete Brown. I like his writing style, is conversational and informative without coming across as patronising. There is a smattering of withering sarcasm and gentle ribbing as well as a strong shot of self-deprecating humour too. Would I have picked these eight dishes for my iconic British foods? No, but some of them would have been on there. He also shows that British food can be really bad and more often now, really good. Entertaining reading, though you may need snacks when reading it.
You are what you eat is that well-known phrase that springs to mind, and on one level we very much are the sum of all the things we pop in our mouth. But on a different level, the things that we would call our favourite foods also define us as a person and make our class and the are we live very easily identifiable. When we think of India and its curries, France and the cheeses and gourmet foods and Belgium would be mussels and chips with mayonnaise. But what foods would you use to define Britain?
This was a question that Pete Brown often asked himself and it got him thinking. He was born and brought up in the north but now lives a London life. Couple that with his work as a food and drink journalist he has tried and drunk many different things, but he still has his favourites. Narrowing it down to eight different things to put in the book wasn’t going to be easy.
In the end, he made his choice of the meals that he wanted to include that he considered defined him and he considered were classic British dishes. These were Pie and Peas, cheese sandwiches, fish and chips, spaghetti Bolognese, a west country cream tea, curry, a full English breakfast and of course the classic roast followed by a Rhubarb crumble.
He decided that he wants to eat a typical example of each so rather than just wander out into the local area he decides to travel a little of the country to see the sights, meet the locals who make these things and most importantly eat. He heads to Blackpool to eat fish and chips, eats curries in Birmingham and enjoys decided whether it is the cream or jam first in Devon. He persuades two friends to make their version of spag bol and then decides to recreate the version he made as a teenager for his family. Searching for the typical cheese sandwich takes a little longer and the debate as to what you must include in a full English breakfast will run and run.
Each of his chosen meals has a chapter dedicated to it and he talks about the cultural and history behind it as well as eating an awful lot of really good food. I thought that this was another really good book from the pen of Pete Brown. I like his writing style, is conversational and informative without coming across as patronising. There is a smattering of withering sarcasm and gentle ribbing as well as a strong shot of self-deprecating humour too. Would I have picked these eight dishes for my iconic British foods? No, but some of them would have been on there. He also shows that British food can be really bad and more often now, really good. Entertaining reading, though you may need snacks when reading it.
May 16, 2019
enjoyed this journey through british food by an author known for his books on beer, found it very interesting with different meals and a history and social comment on each. overall liked the book didn't disappoint
April 30, 2019
Pete Brown is preaching to the converted when it comes to a 'defence of British food' - done properly it is superb!
And like Brown I've never understood why we aren't prouder of the dishes we do so well - the food that visitors to Britain seek out and enjoy such as fish and chips and roast beef with Yorkshire pudding.
I liked the book's format of 9 extended 'essays' on a different, typical British food such as crumble and custard or the Full English. Each essay contains a history of that particular dish mixed up with some personal memories of Brown cooking and/or eating it - and then trying the food again in archetypical surroundings.
However, Brown is a master of the sweeping statement, plus there's a fair amount of repetition. We constantly hear about his move from working class Yorkshire to middle class London, something he obviously feels he has to keep justifying. The huge chip on his shoulder is the one 'food' in the book I'd have liked less about!
And like Brown I've never understood why we aren't prouder of the dishes we do so well - the food that visitors to Britain seek out and enjoy such as fish and chips and roast beef with Yorkshire pudding.
I liked the book's format of 9 extended 'essays' on a different, typical British food such as crumble and custard or the Full English. Each essay contains a history of that particular dish mixed up with some personal memories of Brown cooking and/or eating it - and then trying the food again in archetypical surroundings.
However, Brown is a master of the sweeping statement, plus there's a fair amount of repetition. We constantly hear about his move from working class Yorkshire to middle class London, something he obviously feels he has to keep justifying. The huge chip on his shoulder is the one 'food' in the book I'd have liked less about!
June 21, 2019
An absolutely joyous, mouthwatering read from Pete Brown! A glorious celebration of dishes that I myself think of most often as gross, uninteresting or rip-offs. And yet now, I am going to have to hunt these very dishes down immediately. Funny and entertaining throughout, I cannot recommend this enough.
August 1, 2019
A hugely entertaining and informative read about our nation's much maligned cuisine as well as dishes from abroad that have been brought by immigration and adapted thus finding their way into the nation's heart.
Both funny and at times heartwarming, Pete Brown takes us through Pie and Peas, Fish and Chips, Spag Bol and obviously the Sunday Roast and other dishes as well. It invokes memories of childhood that many of us will be able to relate to, as well as to the history of each dish.
I loved it!
Both funny and at times heartwarming, Pete Brown takes us through Pie and Peas, Fish and Chips, Spag Bol and obviously the Sunday Roast and other dishes as well. It invokes memories of childhood that many of us will be able to relate to, as well as to the history of each dish.
I loved it!
November 23, 2020
От прєотлічнєйша робота про їжу, цікаво, забавно, сучасно. Піт просто боженька писанини про все, що можна з'їсти і випити
July 25, 2021
I very much enjoyed this. It's not really "in defence of" British food - it's more a declaration of love to it - rather enjoyable and well-researched, even if it does seem a little over-researched at times.
September 16, 2019
A great book which explores a lot about identity and changing society, as well as food and drink. It managed to make me feel nostalgic for my homeland, which is something I haven't felt for quite some time. It also made me want to cook a whole bunch of things! Definitely recommended!
April 21, 2021
Bloody marvellous book!!! Interesting, informative, funny, thoughtful and even wise now and then. A great read and a reminder of the simple delights of good British food.
Themed around a range of key meals which I'm working hard not to tell you about, so the book will be fresh, it has some good arguments for the quality of decent British food and British cooking over the years and especially since WW2.
I often find I relate really well to what Pete Brown has to say, his background and attitude on the subject. Worth a read!
Themed around a range of key meals which I'm working hard not to tell you about, so the book will be fresh, it has some good arguments for the quality of decent British food and British cooking over the years and especially since WW2.
I often find I relate really well to what Pete Brown has to say, his background and attitude on the subject. Worth a read!
August 12, 2019
What an utterly lovely book! A pleasure from start to finish.
April 2, 2025
The subtitle of this entertaining book is ‘In Defence of British Food’, and Pete Brown is just the man to write it. He is an impassioned Barnsley man, and having thought hard about where to take his future partner, Liz, for their first real date, chooses pie and peas in his home town. Surely that shows you have confidence in the deliciosity of ordinary British grub? (He records that Liz said after this outing, “OK, fine, that was incredible. But don’t you dare tell anyone I said that. Ever.” So he was right to trust the best of British!)
You’ll want to know what Brown covers – no spoilers here, really: I’m just presenting you with a plain menu. He starts with pie and peas, and moves onto the cheese sandwich, fish and chips, spag bol, the Devonshire cream tea (I’m half-Cornish, but never mind), curry, the full English, and the roast dinner. He adds one dessert: crumble.
For each item you get quite a bit of cheerful personal anecdote, some history of the dish, where he chose to go for the version of it that he was going to review, his assessment of what he ate, and its significance in the canon of British food. It’s basically a tour of what Brits like and why, in fact, a round-up of our go-to comfort foods at their most conventional without the extras you are likely to find in the version of them in a book such as the excellent ‘Jamie Oliver’s Great Britain’.
The interesting thing is perhaps that this list of foods contains an Italian and an Indian dish. Arguably, the fried fish is of Jewish origin as well. But after all, this is British food – in the contemporary sense of British - and is a reflection on the way in which food travels and becomes part of a national culture. In fact, for me, the most memorable section of Brown’s book was that on spag bol. He decides to start by making the first meal he ever cooked which was a childhood version of spag bol requiring a tin of Prince’s ‘minced beef with onions in a rich gravy’ only to discover it smells like dog food. It also requires a tin of sliced mushrooms to produce his authentic Spaghetti Barnsleyaise. It’s disgusting. But when his childhood friends, brothers Chris and Al, get together, to make their version of the bol, it becomes a work of care and art – ‘long, slow cooking’, a chat about what they’re doing and why, whether the sofrito is just right etc etc. What a wonder! Who says the British don’t care about eating well and happily?
I’d recommend reading this over several weeks. Binge-reading could leave you wearying of yet another description of a startlingly good – or unnervingly awful – dish. A wonderful book, and a great cover if you’ve got the Penguin 2020 edition.
You’ll want to know what Brown covers – no spoilers here, really: I’m just presenting you with a plain menu. He starts with pie and peas, and moves onto the cheese sandwich, fish and chips, spag bol, the Devonshire cream tea (I’m half-Cornish, but never mind), curry, the full English, and the roast dinner. He adds one dessert: crumble.
For each item you get quite a bit of cheerful personal anecdote, some history of the dish, where he chose to go for the version of it that he was going to review, his assessment of what he ate, and its significance in the canon of British food. It’s basically a tour of what Brits like and why, in fact, a round-up of our go-to comfort foods at their most conventional without the extras you are likely to find in the version of them in a book such as the excellent ‘Jamie Oliver’s Great Britain’.
The interesting thing is perhaps that this list of foods contains an Italian and an Indian dish. Arguably, the fried fish is of Jewish origin as well. But after all, this is British food – in the contemporary sense of British - and is a reflection on the way in which food travels and becomes part of a national culture. In fact, for me, the most memorable section of Brown’s book was that on spag bol. He decides to start by making the first meal he ever cooked which was a childhood version of spag bol requiring a tin of Prince’s ‘minced beef with onions in a rich gravy’ only to discover it smells like dog food. It also requires a tin of sliced mushrooms to produce his authentic Spaghetti Barnsleyaise. It’s disgusting. But when his childhood friends, brothers Chris and Al, get together, to make their version of the bol, it becomes a work of care and art – ‘long, slow cooking’, a chat about what they’re doing and why, whether the sofrito is just right etc etc. What a wonder! Who says the British don’t care about eating well and happily?
I’d recommend reading this over several weeks. Binge-reading could leave you wearying of yet another description of a startlingly good – or unnervingly awful – dish. A wonderful book, and a great cover if you’ve got the Penguin 2020 edition.
March 24, 2024
I loved this book, from start to finish! I have read several books about beer by Pete Brown, and also been lucky to see him speak on the topic a few times, and enjoyed them all very much but I think this is my favourite so far. The histories of the dishes he discusses, and how they relate to and form part of the British national identity, are fascinating. However I found the way that each dish forms part of his own personal identity and history particularly enjoyable to read, and also it made me think fondly of each dish in relation to my own family and self. Perhaps it particularly resonated as I'm a British person who's lived in America for more than five years now, and takes delight in recreating old favourite meals and sourcing hard to find necessary ingredients! Truly a delight.
November 16, 2024
Pete Brown is a food and drink commentator and food award judge. This is a fascinating look at 9 dishes that have come to be regarded as quintessentially British (including curry, cream teas and fish and chips) with Brown mixing comment on their development, place in British society, questions of authenticity and what they say about British class and culture with his own relationship with food, having grown up working class in Barnsley.
June 6, 2019
Con tutta la leggerezza e sapienza che sa usare Pete Brown: un bel libro, non scontato e non banale, sulla cucina della Gran Bretagna. Sì, alla fine (ma anche durante), si avrà voglia di pie e roastbeef. Un bella scusa per ripensare alla nostra memoria proustiana.
July 17, 2021
For anyone who likes food and/or writing you would do very well to read this. Like all his books that I have read it is warm and affectionate about food and drink, touching at times, laugh out loud funny at times and brilliantly written. And now I am rather hungry!
June 9, 2020
A meandering essay on the history of British food with personal anecdotes. Hubby liked it more than I did, but then, he's British.
September 24, 2020
For a book with "in defence of" in the title, there's an awful lot of bad food described in it, but this is an enjoyable and personal tour of British food classics*
October 31, 2020
A peek into the British psyche, society & history through the profiles of its most characteristic dishes. Well-researched, insightful & indulgent writing. Very recommended.
October 20, 2023
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Bland
Bland
May 7, 2025
Unexpected pleasure. A wander around British food and our favourite dishes with some history and politics thrown in.
June 4, 2025
Entertaining and informative, a great read for anyone interested in British culture.
March 11, 2021
The book is a very interesting review of our culinary and cultural heritage. I really like the writer's style, having enjoyed his 'beer phase', and he reveals a lot of his own personality in each of the chapters. He is also good at showcasing working class, independent food outlets.
December 26, 2020
The history behind the foods was interesting but there was too much focus on the author
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews