The Great Book of Chocolate

by David Lebovitz

The Great book every chocophile has been waiting for, pastry chef David Lebovitz's guide is a jam-packed snapshot of the global chocolate picture. In this compact volume, he gives a succinct cacao botany lesson, explains the process of chocolate making, runs through chocolate terminology and types, presents information on health benefits, offers an evaluating and buying primer, profiles the world's top chocolate makers and chocolatiers (with a whole chapter dedicated to Paris alone!), and shares dozens of little-known factoids in sidebars throughout the book. More than 30 of his favorite chocolate recipes—from Black-Bottom Cupcakes to Homemade Rocky Road Candy, Orange and Rum Chocolate Mousse Cake to Double Chocolate Chip Espresso Cookies—are icing on the cake. His extensive resource section (with websites for international ordering) can bring the world's best chocolate to every door. A self-avowed chocoholic, Lebovitz nibbles chocolate every day—and with THE GREAT BOOK OF CHOCOLATE in hand, he figures the rest of us will too. A compact connoisseur's guide, with recipes, to today's cutting-edge array of chocolates and chocolate makers from former Chez Panisse pastry chef David Lebovitz. Includes more than 50 location and food photographs. Chocolate—like its predecessors coffee, wine, and bread—is the latest darling of the food scene.The New York Times on Lebovitz's first book: “Instructions are clear and simple, and the recipes are so good that it becomes clear what a master baker he is.”

Genres: Cookbooks, Cooking, Food, Nonfiction, Food and Wine, Reference

176 pages, Paperback

First published April 15, 2004

About the author

David Lebovitz is a sought-after cooking instructor with an award-winning food blog (davidlebovitz.com). Trained as a pastry chef in France and Belgium, David worked at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California for twelve years. He now lives in Paris, France, where he leads culinary tours of the city.

Reviews

[Mir]

To try:

Chocolate Fitness Cake
3/4 c (75 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 c plus 3 tablesps granulated sugar
7 large egg whites at room temp

Preheat oven to 325 (160 C)
Butter a 2-quart souffle mold or similar oven-proof dish.
Sift or whisk together cocoa and 1/2 c sugar.
Whip eggs until they form soft, droopy peaks.
Whip in remaining 3 spoons sugar.
Carefully fold in cocoa in 3 batches, stopping before smooth.
Transfer to mold. Set mold in large pan.
Add warm water to larger pan till 1-2 inches deep.
Bake 35-40 minutes, till barely set in center.
Remove from water bath.
Wait 5 minutes, then invert onto a plate and serve.

To not try: Chocolate Sauerkraut Cake.

[Yaaresse · Rating 3 out of 5]

A good basic introduction to the history, types and uses of chocolate, this book is sort of the chocolate equivalent to what Kenneth Davids did for coffee in his first books. While there are some recipes in the back, it is not a cookbook; however, the recipes Lebovitz did choose to include represent a variety of ways to use different types of chocolate. I do think he under-represented savory dishes, and I wonder how many people are going to work up the nerve to try the sauerkraut cake. (Not me.)

As with Lebovitz' blog and other writing, the style is informal, with insertions of mild, self-deprecating humor. It works in his blog, but so much of it in one place gets a bit tiresome. When he's in lecture mode, however, he's a very good educator, and his clear, concise way of explaining things imparts a lot of information in a very few pages.

I'd probably give this four stars if it was up-to-date, but the buyout (and subsequent ruination) of several important independent chocolate manufacturers by Hershey in 2005 makes some of the information sadly outdated. Also, a few of the (many, many) shops he reviewed have changed focus or are no longer around. Surprisingly, however, many of the sources of ingredients listed are still in business.

[Candace · Rating 4 out of 5]

good recipes!

[Larissa · Rating 4 out of 5]

Stole this from my moms bookshelf and enjoyed all the interesting background on chocolate and what makes some chocolate better or different than another chocolate. It was more than just a recipe book but a history and exploration of current and potential future chocolate techniques - very interesting and mouth watering! Of course I had to try some of the recipes in this book as well - one to pass on is a pure and simple and even healthy, but so yummy and decadent tasting recipe -

Chocolate Fitness Cake

from The Great Book of Chocolate by David Lebovitz

6 servings

3/4 cup (75 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder, regular or dutch-processed [I used regular this time, and it was plenty chocolate]

1/2 cup+3 Tbsp (100 grams+ 35 grams) granulated sugar, divided

7 large egg whites

[Yes, that's all the ingredients, and while the instructions look long, I can sum it up like this: whip the whites to soft peaks, fold in everything else, then bake. Very simple.]

Preheat the oven to 325˚F. Butter a 2-quart soufflé mold or similar-sized over-proof baking dish or bowl. [I used an 8-inch springform; it worked well this time.] Sift or whisk together the cocoa powder and the 1/2 cup sugar to remove any lumps.

Whip the egg whites until they form soft, droppy peaks. Whip in the remaining 3 Tbsp of sugar. Carefully fold in the cocoa mixture in 3 batches, just until incorporated, stopping just before the mixture becomes smooth. Do not overfold.

Transfer the mixture into the soufflé mold or baking dish. Set the mold in a larger pan. Add warm water to the larger pan so that the water reaches 1-2 inches up the side of the mold, creating a water bath. [Now, I skipped this because my springform isn't water tight and I didn't want a watery cake. My cake came out a little misshapen, and I think the bain-marie would have fixed it, so I say use it.]

Bake 35-40 minutes [start checking around 28-29 if you're using my oven], until cake is barely set in the center. [It was fine at 35, but I think I overcooked it a little, and it left it feeling ever so slightly dry. Avoiding this might negate the need for cream when serving.] Remove the cake from the water bath. Wait 5 minutes, then invert onto a serving plate and serve.

Chocolate Fitness Cake is lovely served warm [as I served it], although it can be served at room temperature and will keep 2 days if wrapped in plastic. Mr. Lebovitz likes his topped with honey-drizzled orange segments, but also suggests fresh mint and white chocolate Crème Anglaise. These would, of course, do serious damage to the idea that one is eating a healthy dessert.

By my estimates, the entire cake contains about 800 calories, which of course, puts you in a state of complete mental shock on the 10th of January. And, yes, that's quite a load if you plan to eat the entire thing yourself. It is, however, merely a trifle when compared to just about any other chocolate cake recipe you'll ever see. The recipe says it serves six (134 kcal/serving) but I cut it in 8 (100 kcal/serving) and it was a nice little shot of chocolate heaven. You will likely never again see caloric information on this site, but I had a hunch this time of year it might yield a little gratitude.

[Helynne · Rating 4 out of 5]

“Every time I put a piece of chocolate in my mouth,” begins author David Lebovitz, “I can’t seem to focus on anything else except that first smooth rush—the incredible taste and sensation that only comes from chocolate.” I can relate to that. In fact, this book had me right at the title. And, of course, I always enjoy reading Lebovitz. Not only is he a fine chef who has written books on numerous kinds of sumptuous dishes (mostly desserts and often French), but he is also witty, funny, and delightful to read. There is also the fact that Lebovitz always offers a lot of keen insights on French culture. (He moved from San Francisco to Paris several years ago). Incidentally, the slim and trim author does not look like he consumes much chocolate. (There are a few pictures of him the book). But he is knowledgeable enough that we take his word about how much of the stuff he tastes on a regular basis. He prepared this book by studying on two continents, touring chocolate factories and working with chefs in the United States, France and Belgium. He provides a history of chocolate, a description of various cacao plants from which different types are made, a look at chocolate production, hints on what kinds to buy, addresses and websites of favorite chocolate boutiques and chocolate retailers in various countries, and some lists such as “10 reasons why chocolate is better than sex.” (Number 4: “The word ‘commitment’ doesn’t scare off chocolate’”). The second half of the book is reserved for recipes such as Deep Dark Chocolate Truffles, Cocoa-Marzipan Pound Cake, Bourbon Mud Pie, and Chocolate Pizza Dough, many of which are illustrated with bright colored pictures. This is a fun little manual to keep around for baking or just for the occasional vicarious chocoholic fix.

[Laura · Rating 3 out of 5]

Really it's a 2.5 rating. It'll become a real 3 if I ever actually try some recipes and they turn out fabulous. The information about chocolate-growing and chocolate-making was interesting and too short. The information about chocolate shops/makers in various locations (mostly the US and Europe, with an entire chapter just on Paris) all blurred together. I do, however, plan to come back to those chapters if I ever find myself visiting the areas he mentions, so as not to miss my chance to visit an excellent chocolatier! The recipes vary quite a bit in their difficulty level and aren't organized in any particularly helpful way. His idea of what a home cook will be able to do and my idea of what this home cook is ever going to try... they are rather different from one another. That being said, some of them looked do-able, and I look forward to experimenting.

[MK · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book was a fun read. I liked it much more than Lebovitz's Sweet Life in Paris book; its tone is much, much more positive. Considering that this book is about ten years old, some of the info is now outdated, but since the best chocolatiers in the world clearly have staying power, it's not too much of an issue. Still, a refresh would be great since the last ten years must have seen new chocolatiers and one can't have too many favorite chocolate shops.

I'd say this book delivers exactly what one would anticipate from a book about chocolate: background on production, an extensive shop list, and luscious recipes. I very much appreciate it as an addition to my growing collection of resources on indulgences.

[Jessica · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the book I was looking for about chocolate. It is written by an expert who knows his stuff. I liked how he went into detail, describing the way different chocolate tastes. I like how he told in specific detail what his favorite brands and places are. All that remains is for me to try some of the recipes in the back of the book...

[Jerel · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have enjoyed reading this book, it has opened new worlds into chocolate and chocolatering. I loved reading the history of chocolate and the production process. I am chomping at the bit to try all of the recipes in the second half.

[Karina · Rating 3 out of 5]

I knew so much about chocolate after reading this book I got hired as a "chocolatier" for a winery in Sonoma. I still haven't figured out how to roast cacao. Someone told me you have to roast the whole bean but I haven't tried since burning nibs.

[Ashley · Rating 3 out of 5]

The Pearl Bakery's Bouchon recipe is in here-- it is not hard, wonderful, and took me right back to rainy PDX days.

[Beka · Rating 3 out of 5]

Very informative, but it's definitely a guide WITH recipes. More than half of the book is information about chocolate, so as long as you know that going in, you should be happy.

[Kristy W · Rating 4 out of 5]

great stuff about how cacao is grown, harvested, and made into chocolate, then most importantly, how to find the best chocolate. Makes me want to go on a world chocolate tour.

[February Four · Rating 3 out of 5]

Too much shop-reviewing! I don't need to read so many reviews of shops I am unlikely to ever be able to visit. The book was great and had lots of information, but the shop reviews went on forever.