I was stunned, impressed - a lot of responses to this book; occasionally impatient, and distinctly turned off by one section - the love scene between Nessim Hosnani and Justine - I felt Durrell was over-reaching his skills - aiming for the higher realms of greatness in Literature by trying perhaps to compare his lovers to Shakespeare's Anthony and Cleopatra - he lost me. This, however was the only place where I put the book down.
I think for me, one of the most appealing elements of the book is the incredible evocation of the great landscapes of Egypt - the Nile delta, the ancient city of Alexandria. The novel opens with a night-fishing adventure into the great lagoon of Mareotis and closes with the final chapter deep in the lagoon and backwaters of the Hosnani lands which stretch from the marshes and swamps of the delta to the sands of the desert in the East. I found the introductory and final chapters an immense evocation of the beauty of a very particular place.
It was full winter and the great bird migrations had begun. The long vitreous expanses of the lake had begun to fill up with their winged visitants like some great terminus. All night long one could hear the flights come in - the thick whirring of mallard-wings or the metallic kraonk kraonk of high-flying geese as they bracketed the winter moon. Among the thickets of weed and sedge, in places polished to black or viper-green by the occasional clinging frosts, you could hear the chuckling and gnatting of royal duck. The old house with its mildewed walls where the scorpions and fleas hibernated among the dusty interstices of the earth-brick felt very empty and desolate to him now that Leila had gone.
The whole in fact is filled with riveting descriptive writing, not just of places, but of people, of the weather - there is a fine depiction of a great storm settling over Alexandria as Mountolive drives up from Cairo for the long awaited meeting with Leila. Durrell manages to capture the time and place of colonial Egypt exactly. He describes life inside the British Embassy - with its details of despatches - the green baize desks on which the post is sorted and Mountolive's lonely sortes into the great garden - this is an extract from when he first arrives in Egypt:
… the place echoed around him as he walked about the magnificent ball-room, across the conservatories, the terraces, peering out on the grass lawns which went right down to the bank of the cocoa-coloured Nile. Outside goose-necked sprinklers whirled and hissed night and day, keeping the coarse emerald grass fresh with moisture. He heard their sighing as he undressed and had a cold shower in the beautiful bathroom with its vitreous glass baubles …
And it continues .. The Nile was rising, filling the air with the dank summer moisture of its yearly inundations, climbing the stone wall at the bottom of the Embassy garden inch by slimy inch.
As you begin to understand the nature of these descriptions you know that everything Mountolive sees and feels is about the richness and yet the rottenness of Egypt; its smells of death and decay and at the same time its incredible wealth - in the hands of the ex-British, who have handed over independence in 1922 to the Muslim rulers. The current story is set in the pre Second World War years - I am guessing 1935/36.
But the book isn't just about nature, or the richly decadent lives of the British expats, it is also about the rising disquiet of the Copts, a religious minority who had traditionally held most of the high-ranking government and intellectual posts in Egyptian society. The Hosnani family with its two brothers, Nessim and Narouz represents the traditional Coptic family - they are a Christian minority community but are considered to be direct descendants of the Pharaohs. Nessim, educated at Oxford is a business man, in charge of the family's wide-ranging assets in the delta area - cotton-farms, wells, investments in shipping etc. And Narouz, the younger brother is the traditional feudal lord, overseer of huge tracts of land - he is the rough stone to Nessim's polish.
I am intrigued to read the other books in this quartet, apparently they cover the same story over and over again, but are written from the different perspectives of the main characters: "Justine" Nessim's wife; "Balthazar" the doctor, who is the long-standing friend of Nessim, Narouz, and Mountolive and finally "Clea:" the blond-artist, a woman - the final book apparently set six years after the concurrent events of the earlier three.
Because I live in Cyprus - and have done so for twenty years now - I can't help but be fascinated by the history of this region and Lawrence Durrell, who is famous for having lived here. He wrote "Bitter Lemons", which is about the Enosis freedom movement from British rule. He is an expert also, in this region's ongoing animosities between Orthodox and Muslim religions. There is a chapter on Memlik Pasha - a fictional character based on Sidqi Pasha - who "assumed premiership of Egypt at two critical times" 1930/33 and again in 1946. This character - is given a lengthy section which exposes the barbaric powers men like this had as late as the twentieth century - he reads more like a character from the Ottoman Empire - at the height of its cruel and violent methods to obtain absolute leadership.
Towards the beginning of the book - there is a long epistolary chapter - in the way of a letter from Mountolive's friend, Pursewarden, who has been stationed in Egypt to write a summary of policy in the Middle East.
- the abyss which separates the rich from the poor - it is positively Indian. In Egypt today for example 6 per cent of the people own three-quarters of the land, thus leaving under a fedden a head for the rest to live on. Good! Then the population is doubling itself every second generation, or is it third? … Meanwhile there is the steady growth of a vocal and literate middle-class whose sons are trained at Oxford among our comfy liberalisms - and who find no jobs waiting for them when they come back here. The babu is growing in power, and the dull story is being repeated here as elsewhere . 'Intellectual coolies of the world unite."
With all of Durrell's lush, evocative, other worldly descriptions of Egypt - there is this continuing balancing factor which elevates Durrell from the idealization of the Orient, which plenty of other writers have indulged in. But in this book - Durrell keeps alive for this reader the brutality of this third world country - there is a profoundly disturbing scene near to the end where Mountolive finds himself trapped inside an old ruined building - being brought to the ground by a group of child prostitutes. He feels like Gulliver, tied to the ground with a million tiny picks, focussing the reader on Mountolive as symbol. The British Ambassador, he represents the 'Giant of Western Development' - the UK, - and yet he is tied down, powerless, in this land of many tiny workers. Mountolive can do nothing to save his beloved Egypt, or indeed his friend, Nessim from political despotism.