I feel like indulging myself on a whim. I feel like packing my and my wife's bags and then heading to the airport and go through all the formalities and the paperwork and find myself, after a weary slog of nearly nine hours, in Spain. I would like to then hire a car and drive in circles around the countryside, take a walk with my wife in the cobblestoned, winding streets of those little towns and hamlets, settle down to a platter of some paella or some wine and finally bring the evening to a close by watching a feisty belle dressed in gorgeous red dance the flamenco. And even then, I think, I would be unable to fathom just what makes Spain so alluring to us all.
Is it the architectural remnants of the Moors, the sunshine in the bright, dazzling summers, the precipitous mountains and rocky cliffs, the piquant, succinct flavours of the palate, the feisty women, the foolhardy men, the romance of the plucking of the flamenco guitar strings or something else, that makes us crave to let our hair loose and take in the wind like a true Spaniard? William Somerset Maugham, one of the greatest authors and storytellers from the Edwardian Era and of all time in general, set out in the 1930s, to find the answer to that question.
The result was "Don Fernando" a book that has something of an off-kilter reputation among all his works; most modern readers dismiss it as a mere collection of sketches written when he was conducting his research for "Catalina" and yet it was Graham Greene's favourite book from the author and with good reason too. If you are about to open the cover, expecting a thrilling travel book awash with sights, sounds, scents and sensations, you would be disappointed; if, on the other hand, you are expecting a series of brilliantly penned, well-researched, even annoyingly didactic, pieces on the country and everything about it, well, you will be rewarded.
It begins, living up to its title, with a memory of Don Fernando, a tavern-keeper whom Maugham had encountered in his first visit to Spain - who also had worked out a side business as a dealer of curios and antiques. One day, Fernando sold Maugham an ancient-looking manuscript that turned out to be a history of none other than Saint Ignatius of Loyola and his life and struggles and ultimate triumphs that established his reputation as a Jesuit priest across the world.
Going from there, Maugham sets out to unravel and explore not only Loyola's life and sacraments but also a whole legacy of Catholicism that is unique primarily to Spain. And even beyond that, he digs deeper into the dazzling cultural influence that the country exerted at the same time of Loyola's heyday - through a candid, fairly concise and profound commentary on its traditions of "machismo" and bravado, its food and its earthy exoticism, its picaresque literary tropes, as evident in its most famous work of literature "Don Quixote", its rambunctious form of theatre, its women and its art, all in the height of their glory in their respective Golden Age.
It makes for wonderful reading, from cover to cover, but there is a touch of an overbearing didacticism in some of these sketches and writings; too often, Maugham labours hard his points and conclusions, not only about the figures he sets out to deconstruct and discuss - Loyola, Cervantes, Lope De Vega, Saint Teresa, Luis De Leon and, most of all, El Greco. The accomplished craftsman of words that he was, even this didacticism is mostly easy to swallow, provided you have the patience and time to sit on each of these pieces. But what particularly seems a little preachy is when Maugham is getting ahead of himself, trying more to deconstruct our perceptions and ideas about writers, artists and the like, which also makes the entire volume a little self-indulgent.
Nevertheless, this is only a minor quibble. "Don Fernando" is the book that you should pick up over an issue of Lonely Planet if you wish to gulp down a heady cocktail of everything that made and continues to make Spain a force to reckon with in the annals of cultural and artistic revolution. For most part, it reads like a flowing documentary on the Golden Age of Spain, with splendid sights and revelations brought to life and with a lively voiceover full of more wisdom and knowledge than one could grasp in a single viewing. If only it knew when to stop at times...