Pretty good overview of the natural wine movement by one of the primary advocates for natural wine in journalism. My personal interest in natural wine doesn't always align with Feiring's, and sometimes I'm a little turned off by the partisan way in which natural wine is pitched as "good" while all other wine is cast as "bad" in broad strokes, which I think is in line with the cultist way that consumers in some US cities have approached the burgeoning natural wine movement. Some of the arguments for natural wine border on zealotry (e.g. claims of health benefits don't reference science to back them, and claims regarding sustainability don't address life cycle realities of international transport and temperature controlled storage for delicate wines).
I feel like there is a story out there to be told about the unpretentious and accessible Parisian natural wine bar scene, the artists who have flocked to the Loire in France to experiment in wine, the travelers who went on to spread wine through word of mouth and importing, the way that their relatively-affordable and independent approach has made them accessible for a generation that is priced out of elitist and pretentious wine worlds, and the way in which these wines have found homes for themselves outside of French & Italian cuisine traditions (Japan, Denmark, Night+Market, vegetarian/vegan). Sadly, this isn't that book, but it was educational and enjoyable all the same.