In a series of essays and comics that are at once academic and intimate, cartoonists Jane Mai and An Nguyen delve into Lolita subculture and their relationship with it. Empowering and beautiful, but also inescapably linked to consumerism, the Rococo-inspired fashion is indulgent and sublime, pretty and rotten.
An Nguyen is a cartoonist and illustrator based in Ottawa, ON best known for her romantic comic series Open Spaces and Closed Places.
Jane Mai is a freelance illustrator and comic artist from Brooklyn, NY.
Novala Takemoto is a Japanese author, fashion designer and prominent promoter of the Lolita lifestyle.
I didn't expect So Pretty/Very Rotten to be so profoundly affecting given that I don't dress in lolita. But it's commentary on fashion, femininity, and politics was quite astute and provided me with a lot of thoughtful ideas to reflect upon.
The book is a combination of essays and comics that seek to explore what lolita is and why people join this subculture. However, unlike so much of what I see on this style of fashion, the focus is much deeper and darker than on just how cute the clothing is. The title refers to the humanity of those into lolita, that despite their perfect clothing, the style can be a poignant rejection of social norms and gender expectations. Lolita is about personal fulfillment. It is about showing your weaknesses and your strength to the world at the same time. It is a declaration that you will live for your own pleasure in a world that wants you to live for the pleasure of others.
So Pretty / Very Rotten also digs into the imperfections of the people who wear this clothing. What drives them, sometimes too far into capitalistic and competitive frenzies? What problems are people hiding under their pretty lace and ribbons? But also what power does the fashion give them? Mai and Nguyen play with the contradictions felt by those who wear lolita, and the complexities of this intricate subculture.
It is wonderful to see such a deep exploration of a world of femininity in such a careful, nuanced approach. Instead of dismissing lolita as a fade or a phase, Mai and Nguyen argue that it represents an important mode of resistance that should be taken seriously. Definitely not what I was expecting, but a compelling and well-researched read.
3,5/5 Me ha gustado como mezclan los cómics de situaciones más o menos cotidianas de las lolitas con los ensayos. He encontrado estos más interesantes, pero los cómics ayudan a aligerar la lectura. Si os interesa la moda Lolita, es un must.
La lectura de este libro te adentra en el conocimiento de la subcultura lolita y del mundo kawaii pero, además, es una obra de gran relevancia en un sentido antropológico y que sirve como testimonio de muchos asuntos relevantes de los tiempos que vivimos: el consumismo, la obsesión con la imagen personal, la idea de la feminidad, las modas locales que se hacen globales... En esta obra se intercalan historietas que te hacen entender el día a día de las chicas que visten lolita con breves artículos académicos (de lo más asequibles) y entrevistas que te hacen entender los motivos, las referencias y las dudas del movimiento. Transmitir la información a través de fuentes tan diversas hace que la lectura de este libro sea enriquecedora de un manera muy lúdica, didáctica y ligera. Ojalá esta estructura se trasladase a la profundización de otras ramas de las ciencias sociales.
Disclaimer: The fashion called 'Lolita' has no known connection to Nabokov's Lolita.
So Pretty/ Very Rotten is a combination of Jane Mai and An Nguyen's efforts in comic and essay form to explore different facets of lolita fashion. While the comics could be enjoyed by lolita-fans and others alike, it'll likely ring especially true to either lolitas or people who're already familiar with the niche fashion style. Lolita fashion is sort of a modern take on rococo fashion with a lot of different sub-styles, originating in Japan and eventually in recent years gaining international status. The essays deal with among other topics; the origin of the fashion, the meaning of clothes as identity and expression, consumerism, differences in the North American and Japanese community aspects of the fashion, etc. There's also an interview with and an essay written by Novala Takemoto - well-known as the author of the novel 'Kamikaze Girls' which features the most famous lolita in media to date - Momoko.
While I enjoyed all of the comics, I definitely personally liked An Nguyen's work better. In "Tomorrow" An Nguyen explores loneliness and one young women's effort to fill a gap in her life with material things. For me it also dealt with the contrasts between our ideals and dreams, set against the reality of our lives, and how we navigate those rifts. "Eternal Maidens" and "Ribbon Army" I think deals beautifully both with the empowering feeling in free expression, the right to love the things you love, how friendships can build with access to certain communities. It also kind of links back to the roots of lolita fashion that's part of a larger movement in Japan in which young women and girls played with self expression as a means to feel free. This topic is also dealt with in the essays. In general An Nguyen's comics are beautifully drawn, have characters that feel realized and relatable even in such a short space of time, and at the same time is story telling done right. If the entire book was a collection of her comics I think this would've been a full-star read for me!
I definitely enjoyed some of the essays a lot. On the whole there's not much I didn't know before, but it was still a lot of fun to read through this book. Rather than being groundbreaking new information it felt more like I was able to share something with someone else who's also had an interest in the same thing. Like listening to a friend give you a different perspective on something you're already pretty well-versed in. I did really like seeing the contrasts between North American/Western Lolitas to Japan and the talk of lolita vs otome for example in the essay "Wavering bodies and Fluttering Minds", as well as in general the talk around the function of lolita in people's lives. Jane Mai's essay "good at looking good" I also personally really related to.
In general just a lot of fun to read and would especially recommend to people interested in the fashion or for An Nguyen's comics for anyone that likes comics with girls figuring out their identity, friendship and girl power, and lots of cute clothes.
I really enjoyed this look into Lolita subculture. When I was first introduced to the fashion, I was a little surprised to know that young women my age enjoyed dressing up like the porcelain dolls I had as a child - and while I didn't understand the WHY behind it, I thought those who wore the fashion all looked glamorous and captivating. From the essays throughout, I now have a better understanding of that why - why women want to feel cute without being sucked into the male gaze, how clothes can have such power over our identity, whether physical, emotional, or otherwise. As someone who now identifies as non-binary, I relate to the feelings of clothing as power and why what we wear and how we wear it distances us from societal norms.
I also really liked the critiques around Lolita subculture in regards to materialism and consumerism. It reminded me, in a way, of similar critiques about bookstagram and online book culture - where shelves lined with an assortment of colorful bookspines are supposed to be gateways to happiness, but have a way of leaving some empty, and so they further filling that void with more and more books left unread and even undesired. Like bookstagram, Lolita fashion can deject as much as it uplifts, especially if your sense of self and self-control wavers more often than it remains steady.
I will say I wish there was more written content. While I loved the different nuances the comic chapters captured, I had hoped for more exploration into Lolita culture in regards to race and body size, especially with those who have lived through or seen such discriminations.
"—¡Al fin y al cabo, en el ejército del lazo tu ropa es tu armadura y tu escudo!
—¿Y qué pasa con las armas?
—¿No crees que tiene algo de poderoso proclamar tan claramente lo que te gusta? "
Como una aficionada a esta moda, siempre me ha interesado el comprender por qué nos sentimos en primer lugar inclinadas a llevar estos vestidos pomposos. Lo cierto es que este libro me ha dado muchas respuestas.
Tanto los ensayos como los pequeños cómics han transmitido a la perfección de todo lo que trata este mundo, no me puedo quejar. Conceptos cómo que es lo "kawaii", porque tantas de nosotras queremos estar constantemente rodeadas de cosas monas, qué es llevar Lolita en solitario, qué es llevar Lolita en comunidad...
Y aunque ni siquiera lleves esta moda, hay conceptos universales tratados como qué es ser "femenina", los roles de género, las distintas finalidades que puede tener la moda y el feminismo en general. Después de todo, creo que eso es lo que más me ha llegado. Ya que cuando nos vestimos como Lolitas, queremos transmitir algo a la sociedad.
El último cómic cierra a la perfección el libro, y sinceramente te deja con cierto sentimiento agridulce. Después de todo, el Lolita es una dulce fantasía, un sueño que creamos a nuestro gusto para poder escapar de la realidad. Pero aunque abandonemos ese sueño, siempre llevaremos dentro lo que sentíamos cuando nos poníamos nuestros pololos y nos adornábamos el pelo con lazos.
I entered the book with curiosity about a subculture i really have nothing to do with and did not understand and exited the book floored, wowed, awed, inspired and filled with so much more respect for this movement and the statement Lolitas are making. I had no idea how shunned and rejected Lolitas could be, and what a statement of personal sovereignty Lolitas are making. (And the fact it has nothing at ALL to do with Nabokov or his famous character, thank goodness!) The tricky issues of consumerism and aging and the sad reality of fashion history being so poorly archived all get airtime in this amazing collection.
Lovely collection of essays and comics about how Lolita fashion isn’t just a material subculture—it’s a personal philosophy too. A lot of this was recap for me, as I grew up knowing people who were into this subculture and visual kei (which has deep connections to Lolita).
This is the perfect resource for someone who’s new to Lolita and all it entails. It’s very feminist and LGBTQIA+ friendly too. But this text is honestly really rare these days and hard to come by. I wish Koyama made it more accessible because it’s honestly an essential text for both the subculture’s social history and broader fashion studies as well.
This is a really fascinating look at Japanese lolita fashion culture.
I wasn't very familiar with lolita before reading this. Lolita is a frilly, extremely labour-intensive style inspired by European women's fashion of the 18th and 19th centuries. It's presented as a self-focused style whose goal is to empower the wearer, which is sharply distinguished from styles which are meant to appeal to men or to society at large. The essays in this collection draw from historical research and with lolita practitioners in Japan and the west in order to shed a light on the history of the style and what it means to its wearers. An Nguyen, one of the two authors, comes from a sociological background and her analysis is well-written and fascinating.
The essays are interspersed with artwork and comics which bring a personal perspective to the topic. Jane Mai and An Nguyen's comics are a mixture of semi-fictionalized personal stories, fictional stories from the perspectives of western lolitas, and fictionalized depictions of the lives of some of the Japanese lolitas who were interviewed for this project. It's an unusual approach for this kind of book, but it works extremely well. There is also a "lolita lookbook" at the beginning of the book which does a good job of providing a visual overview of lolita styles for readers who are unfamiliar.
I definitely recommend this book to anyone who's interested in learning about this style and what it means to those who wear it.
A mix of more comics than essays (mostly comics, and a few mostly outsourced essays), there were a few gems in the mix, particularly the final comic, but by and large the whole thing seemed very caught up in the "not like other girls" concept I see floating around a lot of Western fashion communities. I won't say it was disappointing, in fact I pretty much expected everything I saw, but it was a little tiring. Maybe that's not surprising, as many of the comics seemed to also be deeply personal, and delving into another person's psyche, whatever the circumstances, can be exhausting.
Maybe if I were still heavily involved in Lolita, I would have gotten more out of this collection, but as it is, the attitudes with which the authors wrote comprise many of the reasons I left in the first place.
On the upside, thanks to the size of the text and the majority simple comics contents, this is a very quick read, so if you're curious, I don't think anyone would lose anything by giving this a look-through.
So happy to have found this on the internet archive cuz I didn't want to pay the insane mark up these second hand sellers are charging for it .... has a very poignant yet melancholic tone that resonates a lot with someone who has been in the fashion for more than 5 years now. I wanted to say which of the comics is my fave but they're all so captivating it's hard to choose, empty and the last one are the ones I enjoy the most.
Before I read the book I read the essay "eternal maidens" which I would recommend as a companion piece.
Very lovely book and I would recommend this to anyone who is interested in the subculture and the fashion, I also like how the author highlighted the differences between NA and JP lolitas... it was so interesting to see that in an individualistic society the individual seeks out community and vice versa.
"thinking back about it i had a lot of hangups relating to women, what it means to be a woman, and what it means to present yourself as a woman. this isn't to say i was very thorough in my reflection: as a teen i was a shitlord, as most teens are wont to be, and frustrated and angry all the time without really knowing really exactly why" - Jane Mai in the essay 'Good at Looking Good'
This book rules, its the perfect mix of personal reflection and cultural criticism. There's so much here for people curious about lolita fashion at all levels of experience. There is enough explanation for un-indoctrinated, and enough niche for the fully immersed. The essay and interview with Novala Takemoto were particular highlights. And this is all before even talking about the comics!
he de decir que me ha gustado porque se lee rápido, pero reconozco que lo que mas me ha gustado son los trozos con historietas, cuando hablaba de la cultura no tanto, pero para personas que les guste todo este mundo les encantara
A wonderful and nuanced exploration of lolita fashion from the perspectives of those who have or still do participate in the fashion themselves! I wouldn’t recommend to as a first read for those who are not as familiar with lolita despite it giving a brief history and information recap to catch readers up to speed. This is because I feel the essays and comics that impacted me the most were the ones that explored the relationship those who wear it have with the garments they collect and the community they are able to interact with through it, which hits very close to home for me and felt very real to my own experiences and the experiences of the many dear friends I’ve made through this part of my life.
I loved how varied the experiences and feelings around it presented in this book were as well, with some having felt this is something that will forever be part of them while others eventually deciding to move on from it, for their own unique reasons. One path is never shown as being better than the other and instead you are invited to listen and think on the complex histories surrounding this fashion and the many different individuals who take part in it and evolve just as it does.
It’s a little difficult nowadays to get a copy of this that isn’t super expensive due to no longer being published (I was very lucky I even got a copy myself) but if you do get a chance to read it, it’s definitely worth your time!! Especially if you wear and love lolita fashion. May your heart be adorned with frills and lace no matter where life ends up taking you. <3
Para aquel que esté interesado en la cultura lolita y el kawaii, este libro puede llegar a conceder sus deseos de aprender y profundizar más acerca del tema. Es ligerito y los comics ayudan a que sea más dinámico, y la perspectiva que aporta acerca de cómo el lolita está más cercano al punk que de otros movimientos está curioso. Tampoco voy a mentir a nadie, siento que se me ha quedado algo corto y me ha hecho falta más ensayo, o que los comics exploraran más cosas acerca de la faceta lolita. Recomendado igualmente.
Colección de ensayos y cómics sobre el movimiento lolita (primera sorpresa: NADA que ver con Navokov). De vez en cuando hay que leer sobre cosas de las que no tienes ni idea y, mira, descubrir cosas nuevas. Muy chulo el libro. Por cierto, el título original (“So Pretty / Very Rotten”) es más chulo.
This book is wonderful and so heart-warming and so endearing.
For me, this book carries an atmosphere of the deeply indulgent yet nostalgic and comforting lolita-as-subculture lolita-as-meaningful-experience understanding of lolita as I have always seen it, but I can't seem to always find anymore. It investigates the meaning that lolita has held for its fans/proponents throughout its history, and examines what place this has in our society. It examines the role lolita can play in our lives. It does all this naturally, without knocking you over the head with it.
Overall, I felt like this carries the worldview Novala has always personified and evoked forward into this decade and in this language, without purposefully or intentionally doing so. Rather, this is simply a description of lolita by those who truly hold it naturally in their hearts in a similar place as it is held by Novala and in the hearts of his fans.
Basically, rambling aside, it is perfect and it is lovely and I love it.
The essays are so well-done, academically rigorous yet approachable for a layman fan. The comics are so endearing! The content is so heart-warming.
I really enjoyed this as a relative outsider (follow a few Tokyo street photography Tumblrs; aware of Kamikaze Girls but not its original author; put Fruits on my Amazon wishlist in 2002 but never bothered to pick it up). Aside from a few organizational quibbles- I wish the citations were in a more academic format for quick reference, and that Mai's illustrated glossary of garments were located earlier in the book rather than immediately after a segment that had me wondering what a "JSK" was- but most of those book down to wanting a more extensive academic treatment, which can be found in Nguyen's journal articles, or color photography, which is well outside the scope of this book and easily available elsewhere. For what it actually *is*- a hybrid of academic writing, personal experience and fiction, a format well served by comics as a medium- it's fantastic.
Very informative, much better than blurbs in books about wacky Japanese things. As someone who knows a lot about lolita, I still learned things and either way it's very interesting. The comics were beautiful and touching. LUV IT
Resilience, smashing the patriarchy via going against mainstream beauty standards, dressing for yourself, sisterhood, community, nonconformity to gender roles, kindness towards yourself and others. These are some topics I picked up from reading this graphic novel. I really enjoyed it.
It's an interesting book, and does cool things with form, but it wasn't for me. Felt like an odd mix of only for insiders and only for outsiders. I think t would probably most enjoyable to those who know nothing about lolita fashion.
Me encantó lo compré en Barcelona y me lo lei en el tren camino a Madrid. Aunque sea un ensayo es super divertido y me encantó la parte de comic y que hablasen tanto de Malice Mizer 💘
Above all this book is interesting to the outsider of Lolita culture.
I'm not completely unaware of the fashion and movement within Japan and abroad, but some of the deeper concepts and psyche within Lolita was lost on the casual observer. Ideas that Lolita represents not only a move counter to the mainstream culture, but also acts as a sort of Peter Pan complex - as a way to hold onto girlhood and innocence (the young "shoujo" or cute "kawai") in a society that quickly demands those feminine individuals to step into the role of womanhood and become the beautiful and alluring "otome." In this way, they reclaim their identity for themselves, rejecting performative beauty for the male gaze.
The book touches lightly on more controversial subjects, like the idea that some men prefer this to objectify this identity, namely pedophiles inspired by the more western idea of a Lolita. But above all the book is less academic and more personal, including emotions in the form of prose interviews and in comic narratives.
The transition from illustration to prose feels natural and flows well. The artwork, much like the fashion style, is cute, although more minimalist than it's be-frilled counterpart.
An Nguyen's and Jen Mai's comics can sometimes be sickly sweet in their emotional content, stressing the need for one to be true to themselves. (Sometimes this female centric supportive girl power can come off as mildly gay - but never pays off, as it would be counter to the sexless movement which idealizes purity.) Standouts include the macabre "I Follow" by Jen Mai and the collaborative "Your and My Mistakes," the final comic closing the book.
I loved all of the notions of lolita as an escape from the real world, and how that feeling differs between North American and Japanese lolita's. There were so many interesting tidbits about the origins of lolita and how its evolved through time, and how the internet changed it completely. I found some of the comics a bit confusing, as maybe they were just meant to invoke a feeling without a story - regardless I enjoyed them. Especially the last one, "Your and My Mistakes". I related heavily to Tia, with her all encompassing feeling of being truly alone and jaded in her relationships, and that shred of jealously that comes with seeing someone who was like you when you were younger. Plus, An Nguyen's art is out of this world beautiful. The comic also cast a light on the infamous "mean lolitas" and the negatives of being in a community. I also found the topics of lolita and kawaii being so attached to consumer culture very interesting - we're all so individual yet cannot separate ourselves from material goods that have an identity attached to them. I for sure recommend this book to lolita's and non-lolita's alike, I think everyone who likes fashion could take something away from it.
So Pretty/Very Rotten dives into the subject of lolita fashion and the importance of lolita fashion to so many people that choose to wear it.
Accompanied with many beautiful illustrations drawn by Jane Mai, So Pretty/Very Rotten provides readers that wear lolita fashion (and those that do not wear it) themes of femininity, empowerment and social standpoints on those that choose to diverge from "normal" fashion.
The book also provides information on different types of sub genres on the style for those that are interested in the fashion. I strongly recommend this book to those that are interested in the fashion, those that wear lolita, those that have no clue about what lolita fashion is, and even those that don’t even really like lolita.
The book offers many empowering views on the fashion subculture and its effects on so many people that choose to wear all of frills, bonnets, ribbons and parasols. Perhaps it may inspire others to start dressing up in lolita fashion or perhaps it may even change someone’s views on the idea of alternative fashion.