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The Truffle Underground: A Tale of Mystery, Mayhem, and Manipulation in the Shadowy Market of the World's Most Expensive Fungus
Beneath the gloss of star chefs and crystal-laden tables, the truffle supply chain is touched by theft, secrecy, sabotage, and fraud. Farmers patrol their fields with rifles and fear losing trade secrets to spies. Hunters plant poisoned meatballs to eliminate rival truffle-hunting dogs. Naive buyers and even knowledgeable experts are duped by liars and counterfeits.
This exposé documents the dark, sometimes deadly crimes at each level of the truffle’s path from ground to plate, making sense of an industry that traffics in scarcity, seduction, and cash.
This exposé documents the dark, sometimes deadly crimes at each level of the truffle’s path from ground to plate, making sense of an industry that traffics in scarcity, seduction, and cash.
288 pages, Paperback
First published June 4, 2019
142 people are currently reading
4709 people want to read
About the author
Ryan Jacobs
1 book49 followersRyan Jacobs is an investigative reporter who has written for The Atlantic, Mother Jones, and Pacific Standard, where he serves as deputy editor and oversees the magazine’s investigations desk. Before joining Pacific Standard, he covered international crime for The Atlantic‘s global channel, reporting on the largest diamond heist in French history, international carbon market scams, and the dark side of the truffle trade, among other subjects of intrigue. He graduated summa cum laude from Northwestern University’s Medill School of Journalism.
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July 31, 2019Give me a well written True Crime book any day. It doesn't have to be about a serial killer but don't let an innocuous sounding subject fool you that no harm to life or limb has occurred. The Truffle Underground: A Tale of Mystery, Mayhem, and Manipulation in the Shadowy Market of the World's Most Expensive Fungus, Ryan Jacobs, delivers all that I crave in the genre. Theft, secrecy, fraud, intrigue, and unlike one where the serial killer is at center, this one left me salivating for a taste of the prize. There are deaths however, to both human and animals, frequently to those protecting the fungus or to the dog breeds that hunt the underground gold.
Similar to how the FBI investigates many crimes, the Italian NAS and other organizations takes the investigation of food fraud seriously. Thousands of officers work to keep impostor food off our shelves and out of our stomachs. The criminals they hunt are often connected to organized crime and are dangerous. It's hard to believe that something as innocent as a mushroom can be compared to the illicit world of cocaine and heroin.
You can't make this stuff up. Well worth the read, both informative and entertaining. I've never had a truffle, white or black nor a by-product of this earthy gem. I didn't realized all the products there are that flaunt its taste. Flours, sauces, butter, salt, oils, cheese and more. Even McDonald's thought about joining the truffle band wagon, experimenting with a truffle mayo. Perhaps it's time I indulged.
Similar to how the FBI investigates many crimes, the Italian NAS and other organizations takes the investigation of food fraud seriously. Thousands of officers work to keep impostor food off our shelves and out of our stomachs. The criminals they hunt are often connected to organized crime and are dangerous. It's hard to believe that something as innocent as a mushroom can be compared to the illicit world of cocaine and heroin.
You can't make this stuff up. Well worth the read, both informative and entertaining. I've never had a truffle, white or black nor a by-product of this earthy gem. I didn't realized all the products there are that flaunt its taste. Flours, sauces, butter, salt, oils, cheese and more. Even McDonald's thought about joining the truffle band wagon, experimenting with a truffle mayo. Perhaps it's time I indulged.
August 30, 2019
Those who know me will agree that every once in a while I like to read about obscure topics/events; in other words a niche book. Unfortunately, I was disappointed in this exposé of the truffle industry and the hidden dangers associated with it.
I have never eaten a truffle..........and although I like the lowly mushroom, I can't imagine that a truffle is so delicious that it can possibly be worth the cost. It is a difficult fungus to cultivate and is only found in specific areas of Europe. This makes it a rarity to be savored and a perfect target for theft. The book uncovers the criminal aspects, often deadly, that surround the farming and selling of truffles. Sound interesting?........I am in the minority when I say that it bored me. This book has some high ratings and positive reviews but this is not one of them.
I have never eaten a truffle..........and although I like the lowly mushroom, I can't imagine that a truffle is so delicious that it can possibly be worth the cost. It is a difficult fungus to cultivate and is only found in specific areas of Europe. This makes it a rarity to be savored and a perfect target for theft. The book uncovers the criminal aspects, often deadly, that surround the farming and selling of truffles. Sound interesting?........I am in the minority when I say that it bored me. This book has some high ratings and positive reviews but this is not one of them.
September 17, 2019
I have a secret. I have been known to travel without truffle salt unlike Oprah. This is one of the facts I learned in this book. Oprah loves her truffles especially truffle salt and truffle zest and never leaves home without them. I will confess that I have never knowingly eaten truffles but I did order some truffle zest after I finished the book. I hadn't realized how complex the truffle world is.
I will tell you that I learned that truffles from Italy are the best and heaven forbid that you eat any from Croatia or China. If you eat a truffle product like truffle butter or oil you are probably eating inferior truffles. I wouldn't know the difference but there is a big one and the experts can tell you that is more than money. It's about the taste.
The book delves into the growth of truffles which tend to grow under trees with acorns. Pigs are not good to find them as they don't want to give them up. They want to eat them. The best truffle finders are dogs which has led to a big problem in Italy. People are kidnapping and poisoning the dogs because truffles are a big business. It's largely unregulated and the profit margin is quite high. The laws are quite lax and growers are getting robbed, beaten and killed for their product. Who knew?
This is a fascinating look at the truffle industry from start to finish. It talks about growing and the final product of a chef shaving it onto the plate. There is an extended peek at the lawlessness surrounding it and also the enjoyment of a good truffle. It was very informative and really opened my eyes. I can't wait until I try one.
Thank you NetGalley for a copy of this book in exchange for a fair review.
I will tell you that I learned that truffles from Italy are the best and heaven forbid that you eat any from Croatia or China. If you eat a truffle product like truffle butter or oil you are probably eating inferior truffles. I wouldn't know the difference but there is a big one and the experts can tell you that is more than money. It's about the taste.
The book delves into the growth of truffles which tend to grow under trees with acorns. Pigs are not good to find them as they don't want to give them up. They want to eat them. The best truffle finders are dogs which has led to a big problem in Italy. People are kidnapping and poisoning the dogs because truffles are a big business. It's largely unregulated and the profit margin is quite high. The laws are quite lax and growers are getting robbed, beaten and killed for their product. Who knew?
This is a fascinating look at the truffle industry from start to finish. It talks about growing and the final product of a chef shaving it onto the plate. There is an extended peek at the lawlessness surrounding it and also the enjoyment of a good truffle. It was very informative and really opened my eyes. I can't wait until I try one.
Thank you NetGalley for a copy of this book in exchange for a fair review.
April 16, 2019
Who knew????
Who knew that a simple fungus could lead to assaults, the murder of dogs, robberies, fraud, and more! A mushroom, highly sought after by chefs all over the world, causes untold damages to people all over Italy and France.
In fairness, growing up in Wisconsin, morel mushrooms were the "truffle" of our time. People guarded morel "honey holes" with a great deal of secrecy. But I never heard of anything like the extreme behaviors the author documents.
From the simplest farmer, to multi-national corporations, everyone involved in the pursuit of truffles seems to go a bit wacky. Granted, there's a good deal of money to be made, but what in the world gets into people?
The author has written an intriguing look into the truffle world. I found myself just shaking my head at some of the antics he describes. It's really too bad. While I think truffles are okay, I also think that they are highly overrated. Just another status symbol for people to hold over each other's heads, like who has the biggest and best boat, car, or the rarest wine.
Who knew that a simple fungus could lead to assaults, the murder of dogs, robberies, fraud, and more! A mushroom, highly sought after by chefs all over the world, causes untold damages to people all over Italy and France.
In fairness, growing up in Wisconsin, morel mushrooms were the "truffle" of our time. People guarded morel "honey holes" with a great deal of secrecy. But I never heard of anything like the extreme behaviors the author documents.
From the simplest farmer, to multi-national corporations, everyone involved in the pursuit of truffles seems to go a bit wacky. Granted, there's a good deal of money to be made, but what in the world gets into people?
The author has written an intriguing look into the truffle world. I found myself just shaking my head at some of the antics he describes. It's really too bad. While I think truffles are okay, I also think that they are highly overrated. Just another status symbol for people to hold over each other's heads, like who has the biggest and best boat, car, or the rarest wine.
July 17, 2019
I wonder how many people have never tasted a true truffle after reading this book. First of all, much to my chagrin I have never tasted a truffle which makes it very hard to understand their appeal. The truffle industry is filled with crime and people who do not speak the truth. This is an interesting book which I think will appeal to many people.
September 5, 2020
Haha reading this was an absolute indulgence
July 30, 2019
This is something that I thought I would enjoy much more than I did.
After the 1/2 way point I speed read and skimmed portions. But some of the last parts I read slowly.
Others have said it better. But honestly as much as all this information filled in gaps for my knowledge of truffles and their uses and marketing, it also turned me off in huge proportions. Especially within the detached and clinical long passages of all the dog harm and sabotage done to the rivals' truffle dogs. Most say true crime reads are too sickening for them. There were points in this one that were similar but also at the same time more technically exact. UGH!
Also all the name dropping leaves me cold. I'm odd. It just does. I don't seem to want to know who or what connotation of think reign within this kind of absolutest dark negativity to delightful and usually joyful portions of life, like food- for some of these truffle lovers. Bourdain's quote- way beyond dark! EGH! And what Oprah or Jimmy Kimmel require and sustain for the processes of getting the "correct" one to them? All of the celeb related almost seemed repulsive to me. Elite and nonsense both. And horrors, it can never be mixed with the Chinese node of similar nature!
It's all so effete. I don't think I can even connect to the vast tradition and structure of those who practice centuries of habit and process in the oak sustaining and search. Hope they get to continue without crime and assault against them, regardless- but this adoration and ambiance of adoration- it left me rather cold.
Thorough research, good writing, tons of source material listed and eye witness stats. That was 5 star.
After the 1/2 way point I speed read and skimmed portions. But some of the last parts I read slowly.
Others have said it better. But honestly as much as all this information filled in gaps for my knowledge of truffles and their uses and marketing, it also turned me off in huge proportions. Especially within the detached and clinical long passages of all the dog harm and sabotage done to the rivals' truffle dogs. Most say true crime reads are too sickening for them. There were points in this one that were similar but also at the same time more technically exact. UGH!
Also all the name dropping leaves me cold. I'm odd. It just does. I don't seem to want to know who or what connotation of think reign within this kind of absolutest dark negativity to delightful and usually joyful portions of life, like food- for some of these truffle lovers. Bourdain's quote- way beyond dark! EGH! And what Oprah or Jimmy Kimmel require and sustain for the processes of getting the "correct" one to them? All of the celeb related almost seemed repulsive to me. Elite and nonsense both. And horrors, it can never be mixed with the Chinese node of similar nature!
It's all so effete. I don't think I can even connect to the vast tradition and structure of those who practice centuries of habit and process in the oak sustaining and search. Hope they get to continue without crime and assault against them, regardless- but this adoration and ambiance of adoration- it left me rather cold.
Thorough research, good writing, tons of source material listed and eye witness stats. That was 5 star.
May 23, 2019
This book was great, and it may have ruined me. It was very well written and gave plenty of juicy tidbits and insight into an industry that I never thought much about. It was entertaining and educational at the same time. I loved the history as well as the crime. If I could have wished for anything it would be for there to be more of it, and maybe some better advice about getting the real thing. I've never had a fresh truffle, but I enjoyed my truffle salt until I found out it was probably fake.
June 21, 2019
The book’s subtitle – A Tale of Mystery, Mayhem, and Manipulation in the Shadowy Market of the World’s Most Expensive Fungus – gives you a pretty good idea of what’s to come. It really isn’t an exaggeration – I always knew that truffles were an expensive luxury and that they were difficult to harvest, but I never realized how insanely competitive the truffle market really is.
This incredibly well-researched and well-written exposé delves into the dark side of the truffle business – a world where the truffle supply is filled with secrets, sabotage, fraud, thefts and more. Many will be surprised to learn how antiquated the truffle business is, considering how expensive and sought-after the delicacy is. The harvest of a “great” truffle is based more on the whims of nature, a bit of luck, and old-fashioned know-how, than on anything science can predict.
Jacobs does a great job of profiling all the steps it takes to bring a truffle from the dirt in the ground to the most expensive tables in the best restaurants in the world. The journey is intriguing and the characters are straight out of crime novels.
Some of the tales that this book tells read like a murder-mystery fiction more than a culinary non-fiction book. I mean, seriously – planting poisoned meatballs in the hopes of eliminating a rival’s truffle-hunting dog? Could anyone even make this stuff up?
But it’s all true. The truffle business is BRUTAL and incredibly flawed and Jacobs does a masterful job of bringing it all to life. I know that not everyone enjoys single-subject culinary histories like I do. I devour them (pun intended). Some, I admit, can be pretty boring, while others are surprisingly entertaining. Luckily for me, The Truffle Underground falls into the latter category. Jacobs is an investigative reporter and it really shows in the research evident in the book. However, what makes this book stand out among many other similar nonfiction books is that amongst all the facts and quotes and interviews, there’s an incredible story going on and Jacobs skillfully weaves that into his hard-boiled facts.
Food lovers will really enjoy this look into the world behind the truffle (although they may not be too happy to hear that their truffle salts and truffle oils are most likely fake). For those that are less food obsessed, this book is interesting and engaging enough that many will still find lots to enjoy.
*** Thank you to the publisher, Crown Publishing/Clarkson Potter, and NetGalley for providing me with an advanced copy of this book in exchange for an unbiased review.
This incredibly well-researched and well-written exposé delves into the dark side of the truffle business – a world where the truffle supply is filled with secrets, sabotage, fraud, thefts and more. Many will be surprised to learn how antiquated the truffle business is, considering how expensive and sought-after the delicacy is. The harvest of a “great” truffle is based more on the whims of nature, a bit of luck, and old-fashioned know-how, than on anything science can predict.
Jacobs does a great job of profiling all the steps it takes to bring a truffle from the dirt in the ground to the most expensive tables in the best restaurants in the world. The journey is intriguing and the characters are straight out of crime novels.
Some of the tales that this book tells read like a murder-mystery fiction more than a culinary non-fiction book. I mean, seriously – planting poisoned meatballs in the hopes of eliminating a rival’s truffle-hunting dog? Could anyone even make this stuff up?
But it’s all true. The truffle business is BRUTAL and incredibly flawed and Jacobs does a masterful job of bringing it all to life. I know that not everyone enjoys single-subject culinary histories like I do. I devour them (pun intended). Some, I admit, can be pretty boring, while others are surprisingly entertaining. Luckily for me, The Truffle Underground falls into the latter category. Jacobs is an investigative reporter and it really shows in the research evident in the book. However, what makes this book stand out among many other similar nonfiction books is that amongst all the facts and quotes and interviews, there’s an incredible story going on and Jacobs skillfully weaves that into his hard-boiled facts.
Food lovers will really enjoy this look into the world behind the truffle (although they may not be too happy to hear that their truffle salts and truffle oils are most likely fake). For those that are less food obsessed, this book is interesting and engaging enough that many will still find lots to enjoy.
*** Thank you to the publisher, Crown Publishing/Clarkson Potter, and NetGalley for providing me with an advanced copy of this book in exchange for an unbiased review.
June 18, 2019
Review can be found here: https://ginghampanda.blogspot.com/201...
July 31, 2019
Summary: The first half of this was a lot of fun, but the second half was darker and less entertaining.
I always feel a little bad when I have a series of less than enthusiastic reviews, but I have to admit, this was another book that didn't quite live up to my expectations. The first half of the book was fantastic. It included interesting true crime elements and lots of fun facts about a fascinating subculture. The second half began poorly though, with a difficult section about terrible things competitive truffle hunters do to each other's dogs. The ending then focused a lot on regulations that I didn't find as interesting. There was also some editorializing that I found shallow and unconvincing. In particular, I thought the author bought in the truffles mystique surprisingly uncritically, especially given the darker parts of the story he told.This review was originally posted on Doing Dewey
I always feel a little bad when I have a series of less than enthusiastic reviews, but I have to admit, this was another book that didn't quite live up to my expectations. The first half of the book was fantastic. It included interesting true crime elements and lots of fun facts about a fascinating subculture. The second half began poorly though, with a difficult section about terrible things competitive truffle hunters do to each other's dogs. The ending then focused a lot on regulations that I didn't find as interesting. There was also some editorializing that I found shallow and unconvincing. In particular, I thought the author bought in the truffles mystique surprisingly uncritically, especially given the darker parts of the story he told.This review was originally posted on Doing Dewey
October 4, 2019
Fascinating And Bananapants (TW animal abuse)
This is another one that I’d mostly put in the nonviolent true crime category (there’s a brief murder and dog poisonings) that works really well for fans of books like The Feather Thief. Once again you may think you have zero interest in the subject matter–fungus!–but let me tell you this is a ride! From how and where truffles grow, to food and region “snobs”, to how truffles became a delicacy and how that led to thieving, a task force, dog training, and of course fraud. And by fraud I mean are you sure you’re eating what you think you’re eating?! If you’re a fan of microhistory books and nonviolent nonfiction, this is a fascinating read basically on how humans can ruin anything. I went with the audiobook for the enhanced feeling of being told a wild story.
--from Book Riot's Unusual Suspects newsletter: https://link.bookriot.com/view/56a820...
This is another one that I’d mostly put in the nonviolent true crime category (there’s a brief murder and dog poisonings) that works really well for fans of books like The Feather Thief. Once again you may think you have zero interest in the subject matter–fungus!–but let me tell you this is a ride! From how and where truffles grow, to food and region “snobs”, to how truffles became a delicacy and how that led to thieving, a task force, dog training, and of course fraud. And by fraud I mean are you sure you’re eating what you think you’re eating?! If you’re a fan of microhistory books and nonviolent nonfiction, this is a fascinating read basically on how humans can ruin anything. I went with the audiobook for the enhanced feeling of being told a wild story.
--from Book Riot's Unusual Suspects newsletter: https://link.bookriot.com/view/56a820...
June 21, 2019
4.5. I know nothing off truffles, never even tasted one, but after this book it's time I remedy the situation! Learned loads, like best avoid the oils as they are just faux chemicals and even if you think you are trying an authentic Italian truffle, imposters abound. It's an entire culture I knew nothing about, but it's cutthroat and heartbreaking, from murder to the killing and theft of too many dogs to count. Love reading, it exposes you to things you didn't even know you needed to know! And now taste ...
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June 17, 2019Not as compelling or narratively driven as, say, The Feather Thief: Beauty, Obsession, and the Natural History Heist of the Century, but a totally fascinating look at how the truffle industry is a total mess from top to bottom. Who knew?
June 5, 2019
Holy shit this book blew me away. And it cured my eczema. Move over 3 wolf-moon t-shirt, Jacobs' prose is all I need. READ IT!
December 11, 2019
In the tradition of The Orchid Thief, The Feather Thief, and all the other thieves, this is an interesting look at the culture and subcultures surrounding truffles. I'm reasonably sure I've never tasted them and I'm not the kind of diner who would ever be likely to taste them, so it was from an outsider's perspective to read this story, but I still found it interesting. People suck, basically. No surprise, there.
June 3, 2019
Awesome book.....well organized, well written, loved the science, the mystery , the characters.....appreciated the education and the flow from start to finish. I was initially dubious as to what there could possibly be to write about truffles but ultimately found it fascinating and could not put it down.....
Recommend it for a fun educational attention grabbing read. And of course, a must read for foodies, which I am not;)
Recommend it for a fun educational attention grabbing read. And of course, a must read for foodies, which I am not;)
June 5, 2019
So far finding that you don’t need to love truffles OR true crime to enjoy this book. Ryan Jacobs hits the perfect balance between giving you context to get where he’s taking you and keeping you on the edge of your seat. Can’t wait to continue reading!
June 19, 2019
Absolutely fascinating!
I must admit, going in to this book, I knew jack about truffles. I've never even tasted them and i wasn't particularly interested in them. Still, that; 'A Tale of Mystery, Mayhem, and Manipulation in the Shadowy Market of the World's Most Expensive Fungus' sparked my interest and i thought i'd give it a go.
I'm glad i did because that tale is truly fascinating and Jacobs did a great job writing it up. The truffle itself is fascinating, i kinda want to taste it now. But the whole supply chain and the markets perhaps is even more fascinating and there's i don't know how many crimes associated with it. There's stealing truffles from the ground or from warehouses, there's shadowy chains of buyers and middlemen with ample opportunity for creative accounting, there's fake truffles, a lot of that, and mislabeling and there's even theft and poisoning of dogs that are good at finding truffles.
There's a lot shadowy stuff going on in the world of the most of expensive fungus. An excellent read.
I must admit, going in to this book, I knew jack about truffles. I've never even tasted them and i wasn't particularly interested in them. Still, that; 'A Tale of Mystery, Mayhem, and Manipulation in the Shadowy Market of the World's Most Expensive Fungus' sparked my interest and i thought i'd give it a go.
I'm glad i did because that tale is truly fascinating and Jacobs did a great job writing it up. The truffle itself is fascinating, i kinda want to taste it now. But the whole supply chain and the markets perhaps is even more fascinating and there's i don't know how many crimes associated with it. There's stealing truffles from the ground or from warehouses, there's shadowy chains of buyers and middlemen with ample opportunity for creative accounting, there's fake truffles, a lot of that, and mislabeling and there's even theft and poisoning of dogs that are good at finding truffles.
There's a lot shadowy stuff going on in the world of the most of expensive fungus. An excellent read.
December 10, 2019
So now I have a new thing to be snobby about! I'm joking of course... Or am I? (What is reading food journalism anyway other than just collecting things to be snobby about.)
I have always thought I very much disliked truffles, but granted my experience with them was limited and it turns out, likely not authentic whatsoever. If you tl:dr this, at least know that truffle oil is illegitimate garbage and if you have always thought it to be gross, the best truffle chefs in the world will back you up on that.
This was a pretty interesting book about the entire production chain for truffles - from attempting to cultivate, to hunting, selling to middlemen, then to companies and/or restaurants, and the crimes that are perpetuated in every link of that chain - theft, murder, dog poisoning, and the one that affects the consumer most: fraud.
At parts the book dragged and seemed a bit too long, a bit too wordy, and a bit more opinionated/judgey than I wanted, but ultimately I am satisfied with what I learned. I probably will never have the experience in my life of eating a legit truffle dinner, prepared by an expert chef, because the ones I'd trust to actually be using authentic truffles are outside what I'm willing to pay for a food I'm not even sure if I'd like. And everyone else is honestly probably using tasteless cheap Chinese truffles sprayed with synthetic aroma (i.e truffle oil) that they've been sold fraudulently (all it takes is for someone, somewhere along the chain to be unwitting). It is likely any "truffle" I've had the displeasure of eating in my life was the latter.
Read this book if you like food journalism deep dives, otherwise seek out some long form reviews or excerpts!
I have always thought I very much disliked truffles, but granted my experience with them was limited and it turns out, likely not authentic whatsoever. If you tl:dr this, at least know that truffle oil is illegitimate garbage and if you have always thought it to be gross, the best truffle chefs in the world will back you up on that.
This was a pretty interesting book about the entire production chain for truffles - from attempting to cultivate, to hunting, selling to middlemen, then to companies and/or restaurants, and the crimes that are perpetuated in every link of that chain - theft, murder, dog poisoning, and the one that affects the consumer most: fraud.
At parts the book dragged and seemed a bit too long, a bit too wordy, and a bit more opinionated/judgey than I wanted, but ultimately I am satisfied with what I learned. I probably will never have the experience in my life of eating a legit truffle dinner, prepared by an expert chef, because the ones I'd trust to actually be using authentic truffles are outside what I'm willing to pay for a food I'm not even sure if I'd like. And everyone else is honestly probably using tasteless cheap Chinese truffles sprayed with synthetic aroma (i.e truffle oil) that they've been sold fraudulently (all it takes is for someone, somewhere along the chain to be unwitting). It is likely any "truffle" I've had the displeasure of eating in my life was the latter.
Read this book if you like food journalism deep dives, otherwise seek out some long form reviews or excerpts!
April 6, 2023
A deep expose into the truffle industry in Italy and France focusing on it's history, the modern industry, and the criminality that seems inseparable from it.
Dog lovers should skip chapter 6. Truffle hunting dogs are a crucial part of foraging for wild truffles, and some people can go to dark lengths to hinder their competitors.
I have to say after reading through the book, I'm still not convinced of the terroir argument for regional ingredients. Throughout the book, Jacob describes truffles from Easter Europe and North Africa being included with Italian truffle shipments and it taking a long time for anyone to notice. There's also a truffle chef that even splits hairs between truffles from different plots of land in the Alba region (the "best" white truffles). For most people, I'm still not convinced that the region makes significant difference (in anything - including things like wine). I still land on terroir is just really good regional crop marketing.
Dog lovers should skip chapter 6. Truffle hunting dogs are a crucial part of foraging for wild truffles, and some people can go to dark lengths to hinder their competitors.
I have to say after reading through the book, I'm still not convinced of the terroir argument for regional ingredients. Throughout the book, Jacob describes truffles from Easter Europe and North Africa being included with Italian truffle shipments and it taking a long time for anyone to notice. There's also a truffle chef that even splits hairs between truffles from different plots of land in the Alba region (the "best" white truffles). For most people, I'm still not convinced that the region makes significant difference (in anything - including things like wine). I still land on terroir is just really good regional crop marketing.
September 20, 2021
I read the first couple of chapters of this,
Like a lot of nonfiction books, this one has a lot of filler content to pad out a pretty bare-bones story (at least in the first two chapters). If you enjoy the filler content it could be good, but I typically don't.
Like a lot of nonfiction books, this one has a lot of filler content to pad out a pretty bare-bones story (at least in the first two chapters). If you enjoy the filler content it could be good, but I typically don't.
July 12, 2019
excellent
June 23, 2019
A fascinating book for those of us who love truffles
February 10, 2020
Was an interesting read. It's a cutthroat business, from the hunters all the way up to the distributors.
May 12, 2021
I feel like this could have been an extended article instead of a book. The subject is indeed mysterious, intriguing, and illicit. Execution is a different matter altogether. Don't know which angle Jacobs was trying to view this in (from the jewelry thieves? the haggard police detective? the scientists?) and I don't think he knew either. Still, worth a read in a sleepy time, bedside company sort of way... if that's your thing.
June 18, 2019
I love books that tackle a niche topic. I've read works devoted entirely to subjects like salt, tie fishing, and now truffles. Ryan Jacobs invites readers into a fascinating journey through the shadow world of the truffle enterprise. As a trained journalist, he chases his leads with diligence while writing with flair and wit. I found it fascinating from beginning to end.
April 14, 2020
Wowzers. Who knew that the truffle market was so corrupt? I've don't think I've ever tasted a truffle. I either really want to taste one or have absolutely nothing to do with this industry. But I'm adding tasting a truffle to my bucket list. After reading this book, it would be hard to know if I was getting the real deal when I actually purchase one. It would have to be someday when I'm out in the woods with my artisan truffle guide and their dog and we find one right then and there, straight from the ground, I guess.
Oh, and the dogs! That part slayed me. If I were a believer in hell and also in charge of the place, there would be a roasty-toasty spot for dog murderers. Maybe not the Nazi lava pits, but in the vicinity.
Oh, and the dogs! That part slayed me. If I were a believer in hell and also in charge of the place, there would be a roasty-toasty spot for dog murderers. Maybe not the Nazi lava pits, but in the vicinity.
June 7, 2019
Holy hell, this is a good book. With prose that is often as seductive as the elusive fungus itself, The Truffle Underground transports the reader to an intoxicating world of aromatic forests and international intrigue, full of passion, promise and danger, as gripping as any HBO prestige drama. This impressively researched and beautifully written debut is a must-read for anyone interested in how our food makes its way to our plate from its origin in the wild world. I found myself reading it far into the night, thinking again and again, 'just a few pages more'...
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