The man behind the WaveCast® surf forecasts at WetSand.com, Nathan Todd Cool, takes surf forecasting one step further, showing how you can make surf forecasts with simple calculations and free, publicly available data.The WetSand WaveCast® Guide to Surf Forecasting explains in easy to understand terms the science behind waves, winds, water temperatures, tidal swings, and more. Learn how to predict when swells will arrive, how big waves will be, and telltale signs of common hazards. Find out how to predict winds, forecast temperature fluctuations, and foresee anomalies like upwelling, and coastal eddies. Discover how to track tropical cyclones and how seasonal phenomena affect them. A first of its kind, this informative resource will lead you from start to finish through the steps necessary to make surf forecasts, and refine them over time.Written for both the novice and experienced water sport enthusiast, this book is truly a must-have for those who love to participate with the power of the ocean.
Some details on simple surf forecasting. Was interesting, but I already knew most of the basics and whenever it got interesting the author decided that this was "too much in depth" for this book. Instead he opted for explaining simple calculations or tables which way too many words. All in all not super convinced, especially nowadays where you can get a lot of information online. I guess if you'd like to start some basic forecast for your local break without spending too much time on calculations or models, this can be an interesting read.
A lot of it was based on first principles, such as deep sea storms causing the waves and pressure differences causing those storms. It was pretty interesting, but what I was really after was reading the closer to shore buoys and modeling from that starting point.
Mitigating beach specific factors were helpful
Ch 13 ncdc noaa buoy data was the most helpful.
Californian buoys cdip
Ekman transport! Wow!
Loved the closing sentiment on world peace and stoke