Tóbín's book began as a series of essays, at least some of which appeared in periodicals. What was reportage in the 1990s is now almost only of historical interest. When he travelled, mostly through central and southern Europe, the Bosnian War was raging and John Paul II was still in the middle of his papacy. As a matter of clarification, I am not Catholic, although I spent 34 years on the faculty of a Catholic university. I enjoy travel books and like Tóbín's writing, otherwise I might not have picked this up.
The book is by turns travelogue and descriptions of churches, pilgrimage sites, and Catholic life in various parts of Europe. Tóbín makes it clear he is no longer a believer, although he remains firmly rooted in the culture of his Irish Catholic upbringing. In some ways, it is more about his relationship with Catholicism than about Catholicism. He begins and ends with Enniscorthy Cathedral in Ireland, his family parish where he was raised. He visits pilgrimage sites: Lourdes, the Black Madonna, Medjugorje. He attends Holy Week services in various cities. In between, he takes planes, trains, and automobiles from one place to another. He haunts local bars and interviews a lot of people. One of the more entertaining chapters is his "pilgrimage" to Compostela: he starts in mid-course, cheats by taking taxis, and seems a lot more focused on his next meal than his pilgrimage. At one inn he comes across the comic novelist David Lodge and a BBC film crew. Lodge is one of the blurbers on the back of my copy.
His chapters on the Baltics, Croatia, and Slovenia are the most interesting, chiefly as a record of those countries in that era. Some chapters are primarily of interest for the people he interviews. In "England, Their England" there are several pages on his conversation with Terry Eagleton, olim Oxford don, which makes a fascinating appendage to Eagleton's memoirs, The Gatekeeper.
In the end, I found the book less than the sum of its parts. Much of it is now badly dated. I can't say that I learned much about Catholicism that I didn't already know. But there are still some lovely bits of travel writing. A few passages:
The cold was new to me, even though I had come from Dublin. It was sharper, fiercer, more exact than the Irish cold. [passage from Stockholm to Tallinn]
The city centre appeared untouched by Soviet architecture or even by the nineteenth century. The main square was straight out of a Dürer woodcut. There were hardly any cars and no car parks; just a few shoppers wandering around, it was like a vast marketplace. Each building in the square was in a different style. [Tallinn]
It was not there. The city he remembered no longer existed. [Czeslaw Milocz's Wilno]
It was years since I had read that story and I wondered that night as I walked back to the hotel through the empty streets if I would not be better at home in Dublin reading, turning a page just now in a lamp-lit room, rather than hanging around a strange city with my mind full of half-baked quotations. [Venice, on the way to Croatia]
At times that night the scene was like something out of a dream. The sky was clear and the moon could be seen reflected in the sea below us. The road still twisted along the coast. And the few times I could see for miles ahead, I could make out the shape of queues of lorries in the moonlight. [on the bus from Zagreb to Medjugorje]
It was a city which had been constructed for the convenience of its citizens rather than as a way of establishing the authority of its rulers or its deities. [Ljubljana]
And a note on the Latin. Tóbín quotes a number of snatches from the liturgy in Latin. Having grown up Irish Catholic in the early sixties, he gets most of it right. But twice in this book I saw "Lumens Christi." Really? How could he get that wrong?