originally purchased as a gift for dad from Daunt books. still convinced that reading about a place while you’re in it is the coolest feeling ever.
a LOT of text was focused on Naples’ storied past with political takeovers, different rulers, and instability. as a reader looking to learn more about the stories and myths that shaped neapolitan (or pathenopean) culture, all this historical information became a bit overwhelming, though still imperative to the story of Naples.
here are my main takeaways that I want to keep with me:
- to find Persephone (who had been taken by Pluto to Hades while she was playing in the fields of Campania), her mother Demeter transformed the “siren sisters into birds so that they might fly over land and water in their search. to help the sirens find their way, Demeter created light sources on the mountains & in the sea, which survive today as the volcanos of Southern Italy: Etna, Stromboli, Ischia, the Phlegrean Fields. the largest volcano, Vesuvius, was created to illuminate Campania”
- “the best known of the siren sisters was Parthenope, who had come to symbolize the legendary combination of beauty and danger, attraction and repulsion, which defines the essence of Naples.” when she fails to lure Odysseus with her siren song, she was “so devastated that she threw herself into the sea and drowned. her lifeless body washed up on the rocks of the island of Megaride, on the Bay of Naples.” what Lancaster leaves out here is that many locals say her mermaid shape is what gave the Bay of Naples its unique shape
- there are three obelisks (guglie) in Naples that represent the Baroque period and were originally constructed to give thanks for deliverance from the plague
- Metastasio’s witticism: “a bore is a man who deprives you of solitude without providing you with company”
- the Getty Villa in Malibu is based entirely off the Villa dei Papiri at Herculaneum
- the entire Opera House (cushions, chairs, and curtain) were re-upholstered in red when the power shifted from the Bourbons to the Savoys
- Nietzsche on Naples, “when for the first time I saw the evening come up over Naples with its satin grey and red in the sky, this thought suddenly overwhelmed me: you might have died without seeing this.” me today when I stood in awe of Bernini’s Apollo e Dafne in the Borghese Gallery
- before Antonio Bassolini became mayor, Piazza del Plebiscito was basically the camorra’s unlicensed parking lot