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Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes: and Other Travel Writings
Temperament and poor health motivated Robert Louis Stevenson to travel widely throughout his short life, and before he was celebrated as the author of Treasure Island, A Child's Garden of Verses, and other immortal works, he was known for his travelogues. This collection presents some of his finest writing in that vein, starting with "An Inland Voyage." This 1878 chronicle of a canoe journey through Belgium and France charmingly captures the European villages and townspeople of a bygone era.
Other selections include "Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes," a humorous account of a mountain trek, and "Forest Notes," a meditation on nature based on visits to the Forest of Fontainebleau near Paris and adjacent artists' colonies. These early writings offer captivating insights into Stevenson's bohemian nature and the wanderlust that sent him from his native Scotland to journeys around the world.
Other selections include "Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes," a humorous account of a mountain trek, and "Forest Notes," a meditation on nature based on visits to the Forest of Fontainebleau near Paris and adjacent artists' colonies. These early writings offer captivating insights into Stevenson's bohemian nature and the wanderlust that sent him from his native Scotland to journeys around the world.
242 pages, Kindle Edition
Published February 13, 2019
37 people are currently reading
237 people want to read
About the author
Robert Louis Stevenson
6,872 books7,046 followersRobert Louis Balfour Stevenson was a Scottish novelist, poet, and travel writer, and a leading representative of English literature. He was greatly admired by many authors, including Jorge Luis Borges, Ernest Hemingway, Rudyard Kipling and Vladimir Nabokov.
Most modernist writers dismissed him, however, because he was popular and did not write within their narrow definition of literature. It is only recently that critics have begun to look beyond Stevenson's popularity and allow him a place in the Western canon.
Most modernist writers dismissed him, however, because he was popular and did not write within their narrow definition of literature. It is only recently that critics have begun to look beyond Stevenson's popularity and allow him a place in the Western canon.
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Displaying 1 - 16 of 16 reviews
May 16, 2022
A travelogue from a very different time and place. I very much admire the work of Stevenson, and had never read this one.
December 1, 2020
A flavour of footsteps past
The Cévennes was relatively unknown when RLS set off on his journey, spanning just a couple of weeks in the Autumn of 1878, having acquired a donkey - Modestine - to carry the burden of all his gear. She takes some getting used to and he can appreciate her handsome features but he really does struggle to warm to her. His gear heads eathwards more often than not.
This is a gentle story full of observation and detail of his journeys. He meets innumerable people along the way and describes the food he encounters. It is full of wry observations, frustrations and, yes, a little humour
It is firmly and vividly set in its era, you will learn what the word athwart means (from side to side) and a whang (of bread, which I rather like as a term!).
This is a particularly nice read if you are heading for the area and want to get a sense of footsteps past and a flavour of life as it was at the end of the 19th Century.
The Cévennes was relatively unknown when RLS set off on his journey, spanning just a couple of weeks in the Autumn of 1878, having acquired a donkey - Modestine - to carry the burden of all his gear. She takes some getting used to and he can appreciate her handsome features but he really does struggle to warm to her. His gear heads eathwards more often than not.
This is a gentle story full of observation and detail of his journeys. He meets innumerable people along the way and describes the food he encounters. It is full of wry observations, frustrations and, yes, a little humour
It is firmly and vividly set in its era, you will learn what the word athwart means (from side to side) and a whang (of bread, which I rather like as a term!).
This is a particularly nice read if you are heading for the area and want to get a sense of footsteps past and a flavour of life as it was at the end of the 19th Century.
December 10, 2024
A pleasant and easy read, well written, but to be honest all a little dull and not quite the piece I was expecting after hearing rave reviews. There are some wonderful passages, but not enough. I'd put this into the non-challenging holiday reading category.
I am reviewing the Dover Thrift edition, which contains 3 of Stevenson's early works, all non fiction and involving his travels mostly in France, or in countries nearby. All written prior to his more famous fictional works, though he remained someone who loved to travel for much of his life.
The first is "An Inland Voyage" about his travels by canoe around rivers and canals in Belgium and France. Written in a jaunty tone that reminded me of Jerome K Jerome a little. The second is the better known "Travels with a donkey in the Cévennes". A gentle read, but I found much less interesting that I expected. Each of these pieces is about 100 pages long. The final piece, a short early essay called "Forest Notes" is a eulogy to the Forests around Fountainbleau. Nice enough, but I found it a bit odd. Smattered throughout all the pieces are cultural and historical observations, along with a few insights.
A trio of observations. Stevenson was obviously quite tough physically. Nowadays these might sound like trivial journeys. In those days they were not and they entailed some physical hardship. He also spoke good French. Finally, although some of his comments might raise an eyebrow nowadays, mostly he comes across as a sensible, reasonable person with the ability to make charming and sometimes wise insights.
One thing I found interesting was his reference several times to being English. Stevenson was a proud Scotsman, but not embarrassed to call himself English at times. This blurring of the use of the word "English" for both the people from England and as a collective name for the British is a mistake often made by foreigners to the British Isles. Nowadays call a Scots, Welsh or Irish person "English" you are (rightly) going to be corrected, and sometimes quite forcefully corrected. We may all be British, (though that in itself is disputed), but we are certainly not all English. It's interesting that he was less sensitive to this differentiation. Times change.
I am reviewing the Dover Thrift edition, which contains 3 of Stevenson's early works, all non fiction and involving his travels mostly in France, or in countries nearby. All written prior to his more famous fictional works, though he remained someone who loved to travel for much of his life.
The first is "An Inland Voyage" about his travels by canoe around rivers and canals in Belgium and France. Written in a jaunty tone that reminded me of Jerome K Jerome a little. The second is the better known "Travels with a donkey in the Cévennes". A gentle read, but I found much less interesting that I expected. Each of these pieces is about 100 pages long. The final piece, a short early essay called "Forest Notes" is a eulogy to the Forests around Fountainbleau. Nice enough, but I found it a bit odd. Smattered throughout all the pieces are cultural and historical observations, along with a few insights.
A trio of observations. Stevenson was obviously quite tough physically. Nowadays these might sound like trivial journeys. In those days they were not and they entailed some physical hardship. He also spoke good French. Finally, although some of his comments might raise an eyebrow nowadays, mostly he comes across as a sensible, reasonable person with the ability to make charming and sometimes wise insights.
One thing I found interesting was his reference several times to being English. Stevenson was a proud Scotsman, but not embarrassed to call himself English at times. This blurring of the use of the word "English" for both the people from England and as a collective name for the British is a mistake often made by foreigners to the British Isles. Nowadays call a Scots, Welsh or Irish person "English" you are (rightly) going to be corrected, and sometimes quite forcefully corrected. We may all be British, (though that in itself is disputed), but we are certainly not all English. It's interesting that he was less sensitive to this differentiation. Times change.
August 4, 2007
Viva Modestine! I should read more of Stevenson's travelogues. This one was a charmer, in no small part because of Stevenson's nonpareil prose.
March 4, 2026
2.75/5
Another read for my studies in comparison to Hazlitt’s walking tour, on going a journey’, Stevenson presents the idea of seeing travel anew.
He challenges that by walking, ‘it is the fate of such a one to take twice as much trouble as is needed to obtain happiness’. But to utmost enjoy it, is to traverse alone. The romanticism of solitude and liberty becomes clear once again, ‘because freedom is of the essence’.
Another candid approach, colloquial yet quite frank in response - almost aloof toned is the impression instantly set upon the reader with embedded romanticism.
‘And then you must be open to all impression and let your thoughts take colour from what you see’.
Stevenson agrees with Hazlitt, the walk should be done in silence to be able to absorb your surroundings - the beauty of nature and be observant, he doesn’t shy from the challenges one could face, the brutality of trivial upsets such as the feeling of the ‘knapsack’ and of finding comfortability in one’s own solace, it eventually becomes ‘magnetic; the spirit of the journey enters into it’. - he suggests this as metaphoric imagery to rid oneself and overcome the anxiety of the mind initially.
Stevenson goes on to admire Hazlitt’s words, quoting him and praising his knowledge. Although, apathy is shown when it discusses pace, uneven pace ‘distracts and irritates the mind’ it rushes the process of what the overall purpose of the walk was for, an even pace is an exercise for the mind itself. Stevenson’s use of philosophical intent out does itself in this passage!
Like Hazlitt’s the imagery is strong, yet rather pessimistic to start with then the reader is flooded with the vivid descriptions - the tone is rather more serious than Hazlitt’s dream like voice whereas Stevenson seems to urge on caution to enable dramatics.
He reflects upon the purpose of his message, to be able to contemplate and after all really live - to not be in ‘such haste of doing’ by exchanging ‘big empty words’.
A travelogue of hardship and a donkey!
Another read for my studies in comparison to Hazlitt’s walking tour, on going a journey’, Stevenson presents the idea of seeing travel anew.
He challenges that by walking, ‘it is the fate of such a one to take twice as much trouble as is needed to obtain happiness’. But to utmost enjoy it, is to traverse alone. The romanticism of solitude and liberty becomes clear once again, ‘because freedom is of the essence’.
Another candid approach, colloquial yet quite frank in response - almost aloof toned is the impression instantly set upon the reader with embedded romanticism.
‘And then you must be open to all impression and let your thoughts take colour from what you see’.
Stevenson agrees with Hazlitt, the walk should be done in silence to be able to absorb your surroundings - the beauty of nature and be observant, he doesn’t shy from the challenges one could face, the brutality of trivial upsets such as the feeling of the ‘knapsack’ and of finding comfortability in one’s own solace, it eventually becomes ‘magnetic; the spirit of the journey enters into it’. - he suggests this as metaphoric imagery to rid oneself and overcome the anxiety of the mind initially.
Stevenson goes on to admire Hazlitt’s words, quoting him and praising his knowledge. Although, apathy is shown when it discusses pace, uneven pace ‘distracts and irritates the mind’ it rushes the process of what the overall purpose of the walk was for, an even pace is an exercise for the mind itself. Stevenson’s use of philosophical intent out does itself in this passage!
Like Hazlitt’s the imagery is strong, yet rather pessimistic to start with then the reader is flooded with the vivid descriptions - the tone is rather more serious than Hazlitt’s dream like voice whereas Stevenson seems to urge on caution to enable dramatics.
He reflects upon the purpose of his message, to be able to contemplate and after all really live - to not be in ‘such haste of doing’ by exchanging ‘big empty words’.
A travelogue of hardship and a donkey!
December 27, 2019
Imagine Henry David Thoreau wandering France instead of the Maine woods, and in the company of a gentle beast of burden. That gets you close to Robert Louis Stevenson and his Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes. It was a stroll of some 120 miles with more than he could alone carry: “What I required was something cheap and small and hardy, and of a stolid and peaceful temper; and all these requisites pointed to a donkey.” (p. 18) Travels with a Donkey preceded Treasure Island and Kidnapped and made Stevenson popular. In some ways it reads as an exercise in descriptive writing, but it is mostly a charming account of walk in 1878. Not surprising for a man who would subsequently find himself in the South Pacific, Stevenson confesses: “I have been after an adventure all my life, a pure dispassionate adventure such as befell early and heroic voyagers….” (p. 58) Fortunately he lived in a time when such romantic notions could be satisfied. He and John Muir shared more than the same temporal space. “For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move….” (p. 64)
If you have a hint of wanderlust in your bones, Travels with a Donkey will make you want to book a flight to Paris and catch the train to Le Puy-en-Velay. Fortunately, you can do this. And once there, embark upon the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail, aka Grande Randonnée 70.
If you have a hint of wanderlust in your bones, Travels with a Donkey will make you want to book a flight to Paris and catch the train to Le Puy-en-Velay. Fortunately, you can do this. And once there, embark upon the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail, aka Grande Randonnée 70.
June 24, 2023
This book is for lovers of high quality late 19th century writing. I found this book a joy to read and read it both slowly and in small chunks in order to savor the elegant writing and also to appreciate it more fully. The writing gives accurate and highly detailed descriptions while at the same time managing to be poetic and lyrical. A bonus is the historical aspect of the places described; another is the insightful descriptions of characters he meets on his journeys.
September 28, 2024
RLS was an old soul and his candidly flourishing language nourishes my soul.
I read it in such small sets of time so to read parts of it aloud to my non ambulatory friends who raved about the words and pictures he painted with words.
I read it in such small sets of time so to read parts of it aloud to my non ambulatory friends who raved about the words and pictures he painted with words.
April 30, 2020
Wonderful little thing, especially the first 2 thirds.
Just pleasure.
Just pleasure.
April 29, 2021
I love this book. You can feel the emerging genius of RLS
April 3, 2022
Beautifully written travel diary, a pleasant surprise and worth trying.
June 19, 2024
delightful travel book about a little known area of France
May 31, 2022
Donkey in the city
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
March 12, 2022
A Surprising Adventure
I got this book, because I'm absolutely unfamiliar with Robert Louis Stevenson's writing from life. A quote from this piece was mentioned during my Literature studies.
Being fascinated by the rhythm of his writing in that quote, I grabbed this Kindle version right away.
It is an honest, enriching experience. I am glad Mr Stevenson had decided to share it with us.
Still, the topics covered are sometimes awkwardly positioned in time and space. What I mean is (without quoting, so I don't spoil) that sometimes the author is distracted himself, he seems to forget what the specifics of his interlocutors are, so he makes them go around, like fictional characters, and do as he would imagine them. He was not, however, adequately prepared to have a realistic imagination.
This is just my 2 pence.
I got this book, because I'm absolutely unfamiliar with Robert Louis Stevenson's writing from life. A quote from this piece was mentioned during my Literature studies.
Being fascinated by the rhythm of his writing in that quote, I grabbed this Kindle version right away.
It is an honest, enriching experience. I am glad Mr Stevenson had decided to share it with us.
Still, the topics covered are sometimes awkwardly positioned in time and space. What I mean is (without quoting, so I don't spoil) that sometimes the author is distracted himself, he seems to forget what the specifics of his interlocutors are, so he makes them go around, like fictional characters, and do as he would imagine them. He was not, however, adequately prepared to have a realistic imagination.
This is just my 2 pence.
July 25, 2021
This is a delightful collection of a young RL Stevenson's travel writings, before the novels, before his Garden of Verse. I read it in bite-sized pieces, a chapter a day from Antwerp into northern France, and then across the Cevennes mountains and remote villages of central France. Each chapter was an essay on the days activities that revealed occasional glimpses of Stevenson the protestant and UK patriot. His descriptions of the countryside, the people he meets, the churches and villages are full of wonder and rich imagery. It was fun considering the contrasts between his world and own.
September 16, 2020
Exactly what it purports to be. Bit light on detail, but still a fun read.
Displaying 1 - 16 of 16 reviews