In 2013, a Dutch scientist unveiled the world’s first laboratory-created hamburger. Since then, the idea of producing meat, not from live animals but from carefully cultured tissues, has spread like wildfire through the media. Meanwhile, cultured meat researchers race against population growth and climate change in an effort to make sustainable protein. Meat Planet explores the quest to generate meat in the lab—a substance sometimes called “cultured meat”—and asks what it means to imagine that this is the future of food. Neither an advocate nor a critic of cultured meat, Benjamin Aldes Wurgaft spent five years researching the phenomenon. In Meat Planet, he reveals how debates about lab-grown meat reach beyond debates about food, examining the links between appetite, growth, and capitalism. Could satiating the growing appetite for meat actually lead to our undoing? Are we simply using one technology to undo the damage caused by another? Like all problems in our food system, the meat problem is not merely a problem of production. It is intrinsically social and political, and it demands that we examine questions of justice and desirable modes of living in a shared and finite world.
Benjamin Wurgaft tells a story that could utterly transform the way we think of animals, the way we relate to farmland, the way we use water, and the way we think about population and our fragile ecosystem’s capacity to sustain life. He argues that even if cultured meat does not “succeed,” it functions—much like science fiction—as a crucial mirror that we can hold up to our contemporary fleshy dysfunctions.
A fascinating, discursive ethnographic, historical and philosophic reportage by Benjamin Aldes Wurgaft relating his five year (2013-2018) exploration of the promise and startup hype surrounding cultured meat (i.e., meat grown in vitro).
'A biotechnological nature walk, an assemblage of detours through the history of the future of food, a collection of meditations on meat, attentive not only to the ideas of scientists and engineers but also the way they serve as catalysts for philosophical, anthropological, and historical inquiry. Not to set up manifestos for the future, but so that we might better know ourselves today.'
Erudite, witty, ironic, and sincere; made me 'remember that the uncompleted project of becoming what we might be starts with questions.'
My sister gave me this book as a gag gift because I once spent a holiday quite a few years back ranting effusively about the potential of in vitro MEAT (‘cultured meat,’ Wurgaft informs us it is now being branded) and I guess it left an impression. But the joke is on her. I read the whole thing and gained immeasurable power. I am an unstoppable MEAT computer piloting a MEAT puppet as it navigates this MEAT PLANET.
About 75 pages in you will be forced to reckon with the unsettling fact that this is not at all what you thought it was. It’s so much stranger. By this point, Wurgaft will have managed to talk about quite literally everything encircling the topic of ‘artificial flesh and the future of food’ while artfully managing to avoid touching the issue itself with any weight at all. He quotes Nietzsche and Lacan and Arendt and Schopenhauer. He divulges the etymological origins of many words and describes the decor of the many rooms in which he MEETS (and conducts ultimately unsatisfying conversations with) many people from tangentially related fields. He brings us along on his trips to Europe and doesn’t neglect to trace the inspiration of Soylent all the way back to its earliest literary source. He confesses his hopes and dreams and fears. It’s like a surreal portrait of a man who has lost all semblance of what Keats would call the ‘negative capability’ and is thereby unable to commit to any definitive statement on the topic in question. Like a really erudite student filibustering their way through a neglected class presentation, Wurgaft gish gallops the page count away, concluding only that this book was written too early to draw conclusions about the subject it was commissioned to explore.
The resulting text is wild. It’s like Ben Lerner does Out of Sheer Rage, but about MEAT instead. Subtextually, this book is not about the artificial flesh industry at all; it’s a subtle tale of a man’s slow descent into madness when confronted by the yawning inscrutability of existence. Wilder still, unlike the aforementioned works, this creation deadpans the entire thing. My guy Wurgaft writes a borderline stream-of-consciousness, meta-nonfictional academic fever dream called MEAT PLANET without winking to the reader even once.
Thank you, MEAT PLANET, for all the good times. Most of all, I’d like to thank you for introducing me to the gloriously repulsive term MEATSPACE – Wurgaft’s suggestion for how we might refer to the physical plane as a contrast to ‘cyberspace.’ I use it all the time. Once, I used it in a pitch meeting so much that a dude interrupted me to scream, “FOR FUCK’S SAKE JUST CALL IT IRL!” But fear not. I won’t stop. I’ll never stop.
One sweet quote by way of valediction:
“Perhaps what is truly unsettling about the concept of cannibal tissue culture experiments is not that we might eat one another, or ourselves, but that technology might introduce a new plasticity into our concept of what it is to be human. The flesh in the bioreactor is not sleeping; we are not waiting for it to wake up and be freshly animated by human will. Our cells, grown in tissue culture, implicate us in the order of livestock, and to eat them would mean embracing this reordering of the human condition.”
Considering that while this book’s topic has the potential to explode, splattering itself across a plethora of pop culture discussions around our food industry, anthropological studies on the Agricultural Revolution, moral-philosophical oppositions, meat eating culture, political agendas, cattle farming sustainability, accessible food for all wealth classes, and the ethical conversation of whether science experimentation should really interfere with our everyday bread-and-butter. It’s plausible that the writer, and also likely most readers have gotten lost in this intricate web of discourse.
One must have to imagine the difficult task to balance between presenting scientific as well as historical and academic data into which all crammed under 200 pages writing is quite an ambitious task. Yet, we can’t help but to fantasize about that day when we could grab a hold onto a piece of work that has the answer to whether we are approaching the end of traditional animal farming since the Agricultural Revolution; transitioning into the beginning of the fine dining steak nights era delivered straight to you from a friendly local sourced lab. Perhaps let’s propose that lab-grown patties were even plausible, could it really adequately quench our deep affection toward meat to which humankind has been taught and accustomed to for thousands of years?
The craving from our curiosity into this futuristic endeavor might perhaps still within its premature stage from being fully fed. While it might come with a few dings and scratches, this -Meat Planet- isn’t a bad appetite to kickoff the conversation.
This book takes what is an interesting question of our time - do we eat cultivated meat and what does it mean if we do? - and makes it into an astonishingly uninteresting book. Each chapter is an entirely new idea that doesn't feel fully fleshed out (pun intended). In fact, the whole book reads more like the publishing company got tired of waiting for something to happen with the industry and decided to publish a series of essays on what cultivated meat could, possibly, potentially, one day mean philosophically for a handful of people. If you're willing to wade through the tangents and personal ramblings of the author.
Wow! A truly fascinating book, jam-packed with interesting insight about meat and humankind’s relationship to it. A few detours here and there into Greek mythology and the like, but always interesting - so certainly not a complaint. Anyone interested in anthropology and grappling with the most interesting ethical questions of our era will likely enjoy this book.