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186 pages, Paperback
First published December 12, 1969
It was 1934. I was nineteen years old, still soft at the edges, but with a confident belief in good fortune. I carried a small rolled-up tent, a violin in a blanket, a change of clothes, a tin of treacle biscuits, and some cheese. I was excited, vainglorious, knowing I had far to go; but not, as yet, how far.
It was not a good thing, for instance, to let the hat fill up with money – the sight could discourage the patron; nor was it wise to empty it completely, which could also confuse him, giving him no hint as to where to drop his money.
Still a little off balance I looked about me, saw obscure dark eyes and incomprehensible faces, crumbling walls scribbled with mysterious graffiti, an armed policeman sitting on the Town Hall steps, and a photograph of Marx in a barber’s window.
Madrid struck me at first as being all tram-bells and wire, false marble and dilapidation. Counting London, it was only the second major city I’d seen, and I slipped into it as into the jaws of a lion. It had a lion’s breath, too; something fetid and spicy, mixed with straw and the decayed juices of meat. The Gran Via itself had a lion’s roar, though inflated, like a circus animal’s – wide, self-conscious, and somewhat seedy, and lined with buildings like broken teeth.
The peasants and fishermen stood all day in the plaza, talking more openly now, but tense. The result of the election had given them power, but it was still too hot to grasp. The news, in fact, was not victory for anyone but a declaration of war.

He said his name was Alf, but one couldn't be sure, as he called me Alf, and everyone else. 'Couple of Alfs just got jugged in this town last year,' he'd say. 'Hookin' the shops—you know, with fish-hooks.' Or: 'An Alf I knew used to do twenty-mile a day. One of the looniest Alfs on the road. Said he got round it quicker. And so he did. But folks got sick of his face.'

[...] the cool depths of the Cathedral, clean and bare, full of wide and curving spaces, and the huge stained-glass windows hanging like hazed chrysanthemums in the amber distances of its height. Also the small black pigs running in and out of shop doorways—often apparently the only customers; and the storks roosting gravely on the chimney-pots, gazing across the valley like bony Arabs.
For the first time I was learning how much easier it was to leave than stay behind and love.
Once again the village crowded on to the beach to watch. The evening was hazy and peacock-coloured; delicate hues ran slowly over the sea and sky and melted together like oil. The destroyers lay low on the horizon, slender as floating leaves, insubstantial as the air around them.
