Lima: A Cultural History

by James Higgins

Formerly the viceregal capital of Spain's vast South American empire, Lima is today a sprawling metropolis struggling to cope with a population of eight million. Located on the coast between the Andean foothills and the Pacific Ocean, it is many cities in one, with an indigenous past, and old
colonial heart the port of Callao, and turn-of-the-century quarters modelled on Paris. Leafy suburbs like San Isidro and tranquil seaside communities such as Barranco contrast with ever-expanding shantytowns. Lima has always dominated national life as the center of political and economic power. Long
a stronghold of the European elite, the city is now home to millions of Peruvians from the Andean region as well as the descendans of African slaves and migrants from Europe, China and Japan. As a popular saying puts it, the whole of Peru is now in Lima. James Higgins explores the city's history and
evolving identity as reflected in its architecture, literature, painting, and music. Tracing its trajectory from colonial enclave to modern metropolis, he reveals how the capital now embodies the diversity and dynamism of Peru itself.

Genres: History, Travel, Nonfiction

264 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2004

Reviews

[Harry · Rating 4 out of 5]

Solid! Provides a nice survey the history of Lima, Peru from a cultural perspective.

[Jim · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book grew on me as I read it. Although its organization tends to the haphazard, everything I wanted from it was there; and it is based on a deep knowledge of its subject. Anyone coming to Lima: A Cultural History looking for a guidebook will be disappointed. Author James Higgins apparently has no intention of competing with Fodor, Lonely Planet, or the South America Handbook.

The key to understanding this book is its subtitle: "A Cultural History." After the brief introduction, it divides Lima's history into four parts: The Pre-Hispanic Era, the Spanish Colonial Era, Early Independence, and "The Expanding Metropolis."

Higgins has a deep knowledge of Peruvian literature, music, and art. He intersperses concentrated discussions of the arts with each of the four historical periods. As I am planning to visit Peru this next year, I may have to buy a copy of this book after returning my copy to the library, if for no other reason than to plan a comprehensive reading program prior to going. There are numerous quotes from poems, novels, and other works, such as the following:

The whole resort had changed as well. From being a place of recreation and sea-bathing, [Miraflores] had turned into a modern city criss-crossed by wide asphalt avenues. The old Republican mansions of avenues like Pardo,Benavides, Grau, Ricardo Palma, Leuro and of the seaside promenades had been relentlessly demolished to build on their sites apartment buildings of ten and fifteen storeys, with glass balconies and underground garages. Memo nostalgically recalled his strolls of yesteryear through tree-lined streets with low-rise houses, streets that were perfumed, peaceful and quiet, where a car rarely passed and where children could still play football.

This is from Julio Ramon Ribeyro's "Sad Squabbles in the Old Condominium" (1974). Like many of Higgins's quotes, it combines literature with a feeling for a particular time and place.

To be noted are the excellent drawings by Nicki Averill, a detailed bibliography of works in English and Spanish, and to indexes -- one of literary and historical names, and the other of places. Oxford University Press has outdone itself by making this book into a labor of love.