On the Backs of Tortoises: Darwin, the Galapagos, and the Fate of an Evolutionary Eden

by Elizabeth Hennessy

An insightful exploration of the iconic Galápagos tortoises, and how their fate is inextricably linked to our own in a rapidly changing world

The Galápagos archipelago is often viewed as a last foothold of pristine nature. For sixty years, conservationists have worked to restore this evolutionary Eden after centuries of exploitation at the hands of pirates, whalers, and island settlers. This book tells the story of the islands’ namesakes—the giant tortoises—as coveted food sources, objects of natural history, and famous icons of conservation and tourism. By doing so, it brings into stark relief the paradoxical, and impossible, goal of conserving species by trying to restore a past state of prehistoric evolution. The tortoises, Elizabeth Hennessy demonstrates, are not prehistoric, but rather microcosms whose stories show how deeply human and nonhuman life are entangled. In a world where evolution is thoroughly shaped by global history, Hennessy puts forward a vision for conservation based on reckoning with the past, rather than trying to erase it.

Genres: Nature, Nonfiction, Science, History, Animals, Audiobook, Natural History

336 pages, Hardcover

First published October 29, 2019

About the author

Elizabeth Hennessy is a geographer and assistant professor of history and environmental studies at the University of Wisconsin–Madison, where she is on the steering committee of the Center for Culture, History, and Environment.

Reviews

[Kevin · Rating 4 out of 5]

The natural (and unnatural) history of the Galapagos Archipelago recounted through a timeline of giant tortoise mistreatment, exploitation, and (eventual) husbandry. Elizabeth Hennessy shatters the image of the “pristine islands,” as portrayed in some nature documentaries and travel brochures, and writes frankly, and often upsettingly, about the past, present, and possible future of the archipelago. Galapagos is far from the Evolutionary Eden many of us imagine it to be but it may be the closest thing to “Eden” left on earth.

On a personal note, my volunteerism in wildlife rehabilitation sometimes brings me in contact with “exotic” animals seized by law enforcement officials in the course of their duties. You’d be surprised how often a raid on a meth lab turns up a surprise alligator in the bathtub! In the summer of 2021 a case of “animal hoarding” near Norman, Oklahoma resulted in the seizure and relocation of over 360 exotic animals (camels, kangaroos, fruit bats, ostriches, fennec foxes, etc.). As a result I had the pleasurable opportunity of spending several months caring for five enormous Aldabra tortoises. Theses gentle giants (each weighing between 300 and 500 lbs) grazed the grasses of our multi-acre facility under the watchful eyes of our veterinary staff while we monitored their health and awaited their eventual relocation to reputable zoos and sanctuaries. For weeks I bought collard greens and mustard greens and turnip greens so I could spend time offering healthy treats to these lovable behemoths. My time with these guys was almost spiritual. They ate from my hands (I was careful to watch my fingers) while I sat on the grass surrounded by awesome tortoise-ness. I reflected heavily on this experience as I read this book. Every time Hennessy recounted a particular instance of cruelty to a tortoise it pained me, occasionally to tears. For those of you who, like me, have a place in your heart reserved for animals this is going to be a tough read. But, I think it’s also an important read—one that increases awareness, ends with optimistic possibilities, and (hopefully) inspires us all to activism.

[Booknblues · Rating 3 out of 5]

When I began reading Elizabeth Hennessy's On the Backs of Tortoises: Darwin, the Galapagos, and the Fate of an Evolutionary Eden, I got both more and less than I hoped for. Hennessy gave me a guided tour through the human history of the Galapagos and the relationship between society, the Galapagos and its tortoises. It can be in part a horror story with some 20,000 tortoises remaining out of estimates of 200,000.

While we now seem to have more enlightened ideas with a desired to return the Galapagos to its once pristine state, do not look to closely or ask about the fate of an islands goats.

I had hope for more information about the tortoises and their lives. Despite that disappointment, I do have a better understanding of the Galapagos and the challenges of those islands.

As Hennessy states:
It is not giant tortoises, but entanglement, all the way down in the Galápagos. The future of conservation rests on recognizing that the fate of endangered species is tied to that of the people who live with them. Yet recognizing this entanglement is only a first step toward reckoning with the histories that have reshaped the Galápagos over the past five hundred years.

Conserving life, then, cannot be driven by nostalgia for an inaccessible past world, but must be inspired by hope for a future that is as diverse, as resplendent, and as just as possible.

If you are interested in the Galapagos, its history and how the evolution social and scientific attitudes has effected them and the tortoises, this may be the book for you.

[Josh · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is a masterpiece. It disaggregates the history of conservation in the Galapagos and in doing so it shows how “the long arrow of time” is actually a series of entanglements among people, power, culture, history and turtles. In showing how our views of Galapagos tortoises have shifted over time, Dr. Hennessy, actually tells a story that is nearly universal across all conservation entanglements. And while the tortoises today are not materially consumed they are symbolically. As such we gain insight into the construction of idealized landscapes for ecotourism and neocolonial productions of nature. I think this book needs to be read by anyone going to the archipelago and I can’t wait to teach this book in my conservation biology class.

[Susan · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an important read for anyone considering visiting the Galapagos. Ideas herein, bigger than the tortoises themselves, merit our consideration.

[Liz · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was expecting to love this book. I agree with most of its major points: conservation is often a colonial force, must involve humans/local communities for success, and cannot have a goal of returning to a "pristine state". Invasive species removal and other conservation activities have ethical implications and societal impacts. Conservation work would benefit from greater input from social scientists.

However. While Hennessy makes all of those points well, and makes many valid criticisms of conservationists' activities in the Galapagos, there seems to be an excusing of colonists' views and activities as normal, natural, and pointless to oppose or try to change. And while I agree that conservationists have made mistakes, they have been doing so within a larger context: we are seeing the constant degradation of ecological systems globally. While I agree that the idea of restoring an "evolutionary Eden" is silly, species and ecosystems have value beyond their economic utility, even if our only goal is for the human species to survive and thrive. We will not do so on a world populated primarily by us, Kudzu, and rats, residents of the Galapagos included.

I appreciated the social & ecological history of the islands provided in this book, but I was hoping to find clearer ideas for a path forward.

[Rick Elinson · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a great overview of the history of the Galapagos, centered on the tortoises. Hennessy tries very hard to be even-handed, but the repetitive asides on the negative influence of outsider scientists, trying to restore an evolutionary Eden, become tiresome. While useful to know the disruptions to the those who try to live in the Galapagos, a little mentioned component is that tourism has also given employment for park rangers and guides. That provides opportunities for island natives to gain a college education that they can use in their home, the Galapagos. While the focus on the tortoises is a useful centering idea, it detracts from the question of an Eden. Besides the tortoises, an amazing aspect of the Galapagos is the large number of animals that do not care that humans are there or not. These include sea lions, land iguanas, marine iguanas, blue-footed and red-footed boobies, wave albatrosses, frigate birds, Darwin's finches, sea turtles, penguins, etc., etc., etc. That's the real Eden story!

[Jim Aikman · Rating 2 out of 5]

I wanted to give this book more stars and say that I liked it, but the redundancy of thought and language was too much. Modern notions of conservation should certainly be challenged, but Hennessey hammers her points into submission, offering little to nothing in the way of solutions beyond her pretentious idealism. There is a lot of great history and information, so I learned a lot and generally agree with everything she wrote, but not how it was written.

[Denise Hancock · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this book in preparation for a trip to the Galápagos Islands, and I appreciate the vast experience and historical research that went into it. If I were an academic working in the field of biology or conservation, I’d probably give it 5 stars. For an educated tourist, it’s a heavy read. I enjoyed learning about the history and agree with the author’s premise about approaching the future with a more balanced view. My major complaint is excessive repetitiveness. I often thought I was re-reading the same points or arguments. Strong editing would have made it more attractive to a broader range of readers.

[Panda Pan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very informative but the narrative on conservation is quite self-contradictory… presented many disagreements on conventional conservation philosophy but did not present what the author thinks is best approach for the Galápagos Islands… and also the arguments mostly rest on sentiments (e.g. it is outrageous to fly a tortoise to Florida for medical treatment), but not facts…

[mantareads · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lucidly told! I grappled with why I found this book to be not as "historical" as i was expecting, but it's good questions to ponder about how this book straddles so many methodologies. Never read a full monographic history told through tortoises (or animals!) before, so this was refreshing.

[Lisa · Rating 5 out of 5]

Hennessy provides a thoroughly researched, historically inclusive account of the beloved Galapagos tortoises. Through Hennessy’s gift for storytelling, this book is marvelously readable by scholar and lay person alike!

[EllaHoulihan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really in depth and detailed analysis of the Galapagos—important themes of colonization and saviorism for biologists and tourists to explore

[Tyler Swanson · Rating 4 out of 5]

A compelling book on the merits and ethics of nature preservation and conservation, and the intertwined lives of humanity and nature.