Beyond the Boulevards

by Aditi Sriram

Pondicherry, the South Indian coastal town, Union territory and former French colony, is a city unlike any other in India. Here, the game of pétanque is as commonplace as a minithali sambar-rice lunch, or the briny Tang drifting out of goubert fish market first thing every morning… the French sport’s slower pace and quieter sounds reflect a different cultural trajectory compared to the rest of the country. Indeed, it is one of many aspects or Pondicherry that make the city wholly distinctive. Everywhere you look there are elements of the place that are local and Foreign, unusual and traditional, all at the same time. Besides its hybrid identity, The city is also an important spiritual centre, a hub for alternative education, a quasi-extension of the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu, an ecological and Environmental bastion - and, thanks to a liberal liquor license, a party town. Tapping into every aspect of Pondicherry, in beyond the boulevards, Aditi sriram captures the substance of a city that is a contrast of colours, languages, religions and cultures.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Travel

201 pages, Hardcover

Published January 1, 2019

Reviews

[Ashok Krishna · Rating 5 out of 5]

A special, soothing read! Deserves a full review. ❤

[Anshul · Rating 5 out of 5]

Pondicherry's DNA, if one can stretch the metaphor, is necessarily multi-dimensional. Neither black nor white, it is both. Neither French nor Tamil, it is both. Neither spiritual nor secular, it is both.

As described by the wonderful author, a union territory that is home to many and few, India's pamphlet-friendly advertisement for post-colonial European heritage- Pondicherry is city that may be physically small in geography but much larger in its context of history, scholars, its values and its benevolent charm that draws many.

Beyond the Boulevard is by far my favorite biography of a city and all credit goes to the author and her way of unraveling this 'picturesque' coastal town chapter by chapter so seamlessly and delicately.

[Vinayak Hegde · Rating 4 out of 5]

Beyond the Boulevards is a captivating exploration of Pondicherry, tracing its evolution over time and offering a glimpse into the diverse communities that shape this unique enclave. The book delves into the Tamil majority population, the cosmopolitan and quirky Auroville settlement, and the distinct French and Muslim quarters that together form the city’s eclectic character.

I particularly enjoyed the deep dive into Pondicherry’s French colonial history and its interaction with the Tamil population, which forms the backbone of the city. The author, with deep familial roots in Pondicherry, imbues the narrative with a palpable sense of nostalgia, retracing her steps through a world that seems both distant and enduring.

The sections on libraries, archives, and interviews with locals add a rich texture to the book, providing an intimate view of Pondicherry’s culture and heritage. The author beautifully juxtaposes the old and new, Tamil and French influences, and the pre- and post-independence eras, capturing the city’s unique historical character.

While I wish the book had included more photographs to complement its vivid descriptions, it remains a beautifully crafted monograph on Pondicherry and its people. A delightful read for anyone interested in the history and spirit of this remarkable place.

[Abhishek Goel · Rating 4 out of 5]

Having visited Pudducherry just weeks before getting this book, I thought my guides and other people engaged with me to show me the place had done a great job and made me understand the beautiful place in-depth and detail. But as soon as I read the book, all my notions went for a toss. This is a gem of a book which aptly describes the small paradise of Pudducherry or Pondicherry as people like to call it. The author has taken a considerable amount of pain in looking out for stories, anecdotes, local tales and blending them together in this fabulous book. The cover of the book says that it is, "A short biography of Pondicherry' and I think that the author has done a great job in bringing out the Pondicherry which was somewhere hidden behind the long French names mixed with some Tamilian elegance. This is not a mere tourist guide to the place but is much much more than that and I feel that each and every person who has either been to Pudducherry or is planning to visit it, should definitely get their hands laid on this book and trust me you'll find the place to be much more serene and beautiful.

[Amrendra · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very informative book on Pondicherry, it's history, culture and it's essence.

Divided in 10 chapters the book does well to discuss all things important to Pondicherry - it's French colonial past, the important Frenchmen, the mixed population living in communal harmony, the Aurobindo phenomenon and Mother, the L' option to apply for French citizenship at the time of merger with India in 1956, Pondicherry's ecological issues like beach erosion, it's diverse culture - the Ashram, social organisations, conservationists, etc.

In addition to this the author also discusses the various libraries and archives, the Arikamedu ruins, the black town and Pondicherry's multilingualism. It highlights the city's backdrop and history and also covers most of the city's contemporary concerns. The book gives a rich information on sources of learning on Pondicherry as well.

Considering it is the author's first book, it is definitely deserving of praise for the meticulous research and effort that has gone in its making.

[Ravi Kumar · Rating 5 out of 5]

I just happened to randomly see this title on Kindle but I must tell you its one of the extremely well written one's on Pondycherry.

I had read a few by the members of Auroville and Heese but they were mostly cenetred around Sri Aurobindo and Matri Mandir. This book however covers a lot more about the state of Pondycherry, road and town planning and lots of delightful trivia too. Its a must read and am sure when I visit the city next time will check out the libraries mentioned in the book. Kudos to the author and am waiting for her next. Anjaneyar temple, Bharatis home and the strange light that emanated from Sri Aurobindo's body really captivated me. As a flaneur will love to venture to the Bharathi park and see the statue too. This one's truly a delightful and educative read

[Swetha - a chronically perturbed mind · Rating 4 out of 5]

A recent trip to Pondicherry led me down a rabbit hole. Or more specifically, the address of the hotel we had stayed in led me down one. The fact that it said “Tamil quarters” in the address, had me curious.. and I was already on a wikipedia, blog kick, when this book came into my radar, at a local bookstore there, Focus.
This is an ode to the place, than a historical narration. We travel with the author, through past and present, and see Pondicherry beyond the colourful gates and walls, and flower laden bougainvilleas.. This is also her search for a poace she has not known in person but seen and experienced through her father’s stories..

[Smriti Mishra · Rating 5 out of 5]

Aditi Sriram brings us with her through a wonderful exploration of Pondicherry and it's many characters. Her use of metaphor is beautiful and engaging. I learned so much about how the unique history crosses cultures like no where else in the world. The author's love for the city comes through, as well as her dedication to research and diverse representation across social classes and cultural groups. Pick it up and let yourself explore along with her!

[Natasha · Rating 4 out of 5]

I spent four days exploring the city of Pondicherry a couple of years back. While it would have been lovely to have read the book before I visited, her style of writing made me visualise a lot of my experiences. Delightful portrait of a lovely city

[Arun · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting "biography" of Pondicherry. Covers different aspects of life in Pondicherry seen through anecdotes and conversations with locals. Was expecting a deeper treatment of the history of Pondicherry. It is covered in parts but more focused on contemporary history.

[Konrad von Pless · Rating 4 out of 5]

Certainly fulfills its promised role, though it works better after one had visited the city.

[Karine Hirn · Rating 5 out of 5]

A lovely book to better understand Pondy's soul and recent history. I was so happy to find it in a bookstore on Mission Street, and enjoyed the style, ambition and approach of Aditi Sriram.

[Bernie Gourley · Rating 4 out of 5]

I came across a reference to this book on someone’s blog, fortuitously, a week before our first trip to Pondicherry. And I finished reading the short book during said trip. Pondicherry, technically now known as “Puducherry” but more often than not called “Pondy” by Indians, is a fascinating place on India’s coast with the Bay of Bengal. It’s both the name of the city and the Union Territory (UT) of which it is part. [The book deals mostly with the city, but it does explain the UT briefly.] UT’s are generally smaller than States and are usually managed by the national government. The UT of Pondicherry consists of four discontiguous pieces of land.

There are a few facts that stand out in making Pondy unique within India, and the book deals with them all in some detail. First of all, Pondicherry was a French colony and this is reflected both in the cuisine and architecture on offer. Chapter 6 focuses especially on the city’s French history, but one will find discussions and references of that past throughout.

Secondly, a famous member of the Indian Independence movement turned Karma Yogi, Sri Aurobindo, set up shop here after fleeing the Brits. This resulted in “Auroville” (an experimental township intended to be a utopia that sits a short drive from Pondy) as well as a large Ashram that owns a lot of property in Pondy proper. Sri Aurobindo’s lead student turned collaborator (called “Mother” by Ashramites) apparently bought up distressed property at bargain prices. Chapter seven deals extensively with Aurobindo, Mother, and their legacies in terms of Auroville and the ashram, but – again – these individuals are touched upon throughout. If the reader is looking for the skinny on any controversies regarding Auroville, they are only touched upon obliquely. [Moving to Auroville is said to involve surrendering all of one’s wealth into a communal collection, which is a common trait of cults.] Mostly, Sriram just includes some of the views of locals, which range from weakly positive to unenthusiastically negative.

Finally, while Pondy has this distinctive colonial history and an influx of international visitors to the Ashram, it can’t be forgotten that it’s literally surrounded by Tamil Nadu, and so there is that flavor throughout as well. People may hear about the unique flavor of Pondicherry and how it tends to be tidier than most Indian cities, and they might be expecting that it’s like being in a different country. Rest assured, the Indian influence dominates the landscape, it’s just that it’s diverse in a unique way.

The book mixes history from ancient to modern with discussions with current residents about current issues. When I say “ancient history,” it should be noted that there is an old Roman outpost called Arikamedu a short drive out of town, and it is discussed in the book. Travelers should note that the artifacts from the Roman era – including Greek and Roman pieces – are kept in the Puducherry Museum, and the ruins at Arikamedu are from more recent visitors (though they are photogenic if you’re willing to take a little effort to get there, which involves meandering around some small lanes and sandy roads.) One of the most interesting history-centric chapters is three, which tells the tale of the beautiful prostitute, Aayi, who had a water well built that kept Pondicherry hydrated during both pre-colonial and colonial times.

I found this book to be interesting, and I learned a few things that I probably wouldn’t have otherwise. If you’re traveling to Pondicherry, or have an interest in the city, it’s worth checking out.

[Anand Ganapathy · Rating 3 out of 5]

Packed with facts on Pondicherry ... Slightly dry read hence the 3 rating . Else would have given a 3.5