With recipes for gumbos and stews, plus okra pickles, tofu, marshmallow, paper, and more.
Chris Smith’s first encounter with okra was of the worst kind: slimy fried okra at a greasy-spoon diner. Despite that dismal introduction, Smith developed a fascination with okra, and as he researched the plant and began to experiment with it in his own kitchen, he discovered an amazing range of delicious ways to cook and eat it, along with ingenious and surprising ways to process the plant from tip-to-tail: pods, leaves, flowers, seeds, and stalks. Smith talked okra with chefs, food historians, university researchers, farmers, homesteaders, and gardeners. The summation of his experimentation and research comes together in The Whole Okra, a lighthearted but information-rich collection of okra history, lore, recipes, craft projects, growing advice, and more.
The Whole Okra includes classic recipes such as fried okra pods as well as unexpected delights including okra seed pancakes and okra flower vodka. Some of the South’s best-known chefs shared okra recipes with Smith: Okra Soup by culinary historian Michael Twitty, Limpin’ Susan by chef BJ Dennis, Bhindi Masala by chef Meherwan Irani, and Okra Fries by chef Vivian Howard.
Okra has practical uses beyond the edible, and Smith also researched the history of okra as a fiber crop for making paper and the uses of okra mucilage (slime) as a preservative, a hydrating face mask, and a primary ingredient in herbalist Katrina Blair’s recipe for Okra Marshmallow Delight.
The Whole Okra is foremost a foodie’s book, but Smith also provides practical tips and techniques for home and market gardeners. He gives directions for saving seed for replanting, for a breeding project, or for a stockpile of seed for making okra oil, okra flour, okra tempeh, and more. Smith has grown over 75 varieties of okra, and he describes the nuanced differences in flavor, texture, and color; the best-tasting varieties; and his personal favorites. Smith’s wry humor and seed-to-stem enthusiasm for his subject infuse every chapter with just the right mix of fabulous recipes and culinary tips, unique projects, and fun facts about this vagabond vegetable with enormous potential.
Expert okra enthusiast Chris Smith writes regularly for The Heirloom Gardener, the Mother Earth News blog, and the Farmers' Almanac blog. His presentations on the versatility of okra have delighted audiences at food and farming festivals and fairs throughout the Southeast. He is the Executive Director of The Utopian Seed Project, Communications Manager for Sow True Seed in Asheville, North Carolina, and serves on the boards of The People's Seed and Slow Food Asheville. A native of the UK, Smith has a master's degree in creative writing from the University of Manchester. His short stories have been published in Nashville Review, Mid-American Review, and The Manchester Review.
The Whole Okra is exactly what a single ingredient cookery book should be! I tried Okra for the first time a few years ago and was fascinated by it. It was in a Cypriot dish (it's very common in Cyprus) that was like a tomato stew. I was put off by the slimy texture at first, but once I got used to it, I absolutely fell in love with the nutty flavour. Since then, if there is ever Okra on the menu I will order it. I love trying the variety of different ways it can be prepared. This book not only gives great recipes, but the history of Okra, and the tips of growing and preparing it were great.
If you love under-appreciated foods or live in a country where Okra is a common ingredient, this book is an absolute must.
I think I'm biased because I wrote it, but after submitting the book to Chelsea Green it was about 4 months before I was asked to do a complete proof read and I found myself really enjoying it, which I think is a good sign!
I have always loved okra (also known as bhindi or lady’s fingers in Indian recipes). A particular favourite of mine is a West African okra gumbo I learned to cook while living in Liberia in the 1980’s.
The idea of a whole book about okra had never really occurred to me and I wondered just how many recipes it would take to fill the book. I little realized just how many different ways there are to use the plant; from the fruit pods we mostly associate with okra to the seeds and even leaves. Even okra superfood microgreens and okra sourdough bread from the ground seeds. Or how about making your own paper from okra fiber?
This book really is “a lighthearted but information-rich collection of okra history, lore, recipes, craft projects, growing advice, and more”. A fascinating read that will help you appreciate just how versatile the okra plant is.
Many thanks to the publisher and Netgalley for providing a preview copy.
The Whole Okra: A Seed to Stem Celebration by Chris Smith
I have always loved okra (also known as bhindi or lady’s fingers in Indian recipes). A particular favourite of mine is a West African okra gumbo I learned to cook while living in Liberia in the 1980’s.
The idea of a whole book about okra had never really occurred to me and I wondered just how many recipes it would take to fill the book. I little realized just how many different ways there are to use the plant; from the fruit pods we mostly associate with okra to the seeds and even leaves. Even okra superfood microgreens and okra sourdough bread from the ground seeds. Or how about making your own paper from okra fiber?
This book really is “a lighthearted but information-rich collection of okra history, lore, recipes, craft projects, growing advice, and more”. A fascinating read that will help you appreciate just how versatile the okra plant is.
Many thanks to the publisher and Netgalley for providing a preview copy.
The photos are gorgeous, the history and sociology are fun—the author is British and his outsider perspective on this quintessential Southern food is refreshing. I love the way he sees okra as one is the answers to climate change. I love okra anyway, but I’ve been using it very narrowly and now I have tons of more ideas!
This brand new book is a lot of fun, and the photos are stunning. It has more about okra than you knew you "Wanted to Know". Oil from the seeds, eating the leaves, okra-stem drinking straws, okra seed tempeh, okra marshmallow delights, okra history and geography, medical and industrial uses and so much more. It contains growing tips and recipes, but is not limited to the practical realm.
Chris Smith lives in North Carolina and works with Sow True Seeds in Asheville. He is also a writer, speaker and consultant. He is an immigrant farmer, like me, coming from a climate where okra does not grow. "As a white British guy, I am fully aware that okra is not part of my culture or heritage. I have, however, fallen in love with okra and have tried to approach this book with integrity, and a deep appreciation of people and food." Fortunately for us all, he persisted beyond his encounter with soggy, slimy, greasy fried okra to discover much better ways to use this versatile vegetable.
Chris has grown 76 varieties of okra, cooked it in many different recipes, and experimented on himself and his family with "beauty" preparations and alcoholic tinctures and beverages. He is growing 76 different varieties in 2019. The USDA Germplasm Resources Information network (GRIN) holds 1099 separate accessions from all over the world. India grows the most okra, by far (over 6 million tons in 2014). Nigeria is second with 2 million tons. The US is 21st in line (producing 10,000 tons in 2014). The US also imports 50,000 tons mostly from Mexico and Central America.
In his introduction, Chris says: "Not embracing okra because it's slimy is like not visiting the Alps because you're scared of heights." Okra is often dismissed these days as a vegetable people don't like, although it used to be a favorite of many. In the 1900s, the Tabasco brand of canned okra sold well.
We need resilient crops in the face of climate change; we need to grow more of our own food, eat locally, organic, and with less or no meat, to survive the uncertainties ahead. Zero food waste has become a goal of some chefs (and no doubt, some home cooks too). The Whole Okra provides help with several steps on this journey.
Early in the book, Chris embraces the S-word (slime), including some great photos of his smiling family with okra slime face masks and okra-slice eye pads, and himself with okra mucilage hair conditioner. Although Chris is only recommending things he's tried himself, he does mention some untested ideas, like substituting okra juice for mallow juice as a tonic. A (tested) recipe for okra marshmallow delights is included. Adding acidic ingredients (think tomatoes, lemon juice) to a recipe will effectively cut through the sliminess.
If you have grown okra, you will probably be familiar with the sudden glut that arrives at some (hot) point in the summer. Here are instructions for freezing okra, pickling (both by fermenting and with vinegar), drying (best when strung on dental floss). Best of all are the okra chips (season 2 pounds (907 g) of pods with oil, salt, spices, roast at 500F (260C) for 20 mins, then 170F (75C) for 2-3 hours). 4 ounces (113 g) of tasty crunchy chips! Who knew? There's also info on pressure canning, and okra kimchi, which can be dried, powdered and used as a seasoning.
Okra can be self-pollinating, but produces more seeds per pod when pollinated by insects. There is a specialized native okra bee, Ptilothrix bombiformis. Okra is not native to North America, but rose-mallow and hibiscus are. The flowers are edible cooked, but of course you won't get an okra pod if you've eaten the flower. Unlike squash, okra does not have separate female and male flowers. Flowers can be dried, used in tea blends, or in vodka for tinctures and nightcaps. Only eat flowers if you have an over-abundance of pods or you are about to go away for a long weekend and don't want to come home to a mass of woody pods. Believe it or not, Chris has uses for woody pods too! These can often be obtained free or cheap in high summer. Don some gloves. Open the pods and shell out the immature seeds, which can be cooked and eaten then, or blanched and frozen for winter. Thoroughly dry the empty pods, then powder them, and sift through a fine mesh. The pod powder can be used as a thickening agent in place of cornstarch.
The young leaves make appetizing summer greens and are higher in protein than the pods. They are used (mixed with yam and other vegetables) by the Igbo people of Nigeria. Choose very young leaves, or fairly young leaves of a variety without spiny leaves. Heavy Hitter is the variety to grow for large supple spineless leaves. A close cousin of okra, abika, is used as an important leafy green in some Pacific Island nations. Seeds can be bought from Monticello, under the name Sunset Hibiscus.
Deep-fried young leaves can make crisp chips, like kale chips, but different. If you are saving okra seed, you will often have more seeds than you need to grow, you can sow those for microgreens. Chris has a small aquaponics system made from a barrel. Goldfish (and tilapia in summer) are in the bottom section of the barrel and the water is pumped to the top section which grows the microgreens.
Mature okra seed has a tough hull and a nutritious kernel which can be ground into flour and used in soups, sauces, gravies, and okra seed tofu and tempeh. Back to woody pods: they can make Christmas tree ornaments, earrings, strings of holiday lights (hint: cool LED bulbs, not fire-prone hot bulbs), and painted ornamental figurines. Crushed pods can be used to grow mushrooms. I'm waiting to find out if Chris suggests using them as mulch, or as firelighters. (My Advance Readers' Copy doesn't have an index).
It was known in 1874 and in 1919 that oil can be extracted from okra seeds, but forgotten since. Chris describes hand-cranking his Piteba oil press, for small yields of delicious yellow-green oil. In a comparison of okra oil with that from sunflowers, safflower, soy and sesame [why only the oils that start with S?] the yield of okra oil per hectare is second only to sunflower. The yield pf protein is the highest, beating soy. Clay Oliver makes artisanal small-batch oils, including okra. In a study by Robert Jarret, the oil content varied by variety from 9.19% to 21.56%.
Okra seed flour has high levels of protein and fat, and an impressive range of amino acids. It can be made into bread and other baked goods, mixed with cornmeal. Okra seed was used as a coffee substitute during the civil war. Chris tries everything, and reports that the roasted seeds, when ground, release an appetizing coffee aroma, and look just like coffee, but the beverage tastes nothing like coffee (and has no caffeine). So much for that!
Okra stalk fiber is next – you can make cordage or crochet a hat. Okra is related to jute, kenaf, roselle, kapok and even cotton. Paper is another option. Okra paper is beautiful, strong, and you can make your own paper or twine, following Chris's instructions. It never caught on commercially, because supply could not meet demand.
Naturally enough, there is a chapter on growing okra. I was amazed to learn that at about 3 weeks of age the 6" (15 cm) tall plant could have a taproot three times as long! At full maturity, the tap root could be 4½ ft (1.4 m). This suggests okra would be sturdier if direct sown, rather than transplanted, but you work with the climate you've got! To avoid stunting the taproot, get the small plants in the ground as soon as you can. But it needs to be warm enough. Bruce Adams at Furman University suggests waiting until the butterflies migrate from the South.
Here's the info you need to get your seed germinated: Warmth, soaking the seed for 8 hours in water at 88F (31C). Get the book for all the details. There are several false rural myths out there about growing okra. Okra has naturalized in the Red River floodplain in Louisiana, and also near Durham, North Carolina, where it survived some freezing temperatures.
Recommendations on spacing vary a lot: as close as 6" (15 cm) in rich soil, to 24" (60 cm) for some of the bigger varieties elsewhere. Wider spacing leads to more branches and more pods per plant, but not necessarily more pods for a given area.
And the important matter of deciding when a pod is mature but not too fibrous receives good attention, and a helpful photo, although Chris does warn that it's best to develop a feel for the rigidity of tough pods. You can't tell just by length, even within a variety you know well, as the weather will change the size of a mature pod. Chris recommends snapping the end off a trial pod. A clean snap indicates a good meal ahead. A pod that doesn't snap or that "splinters" is too woody. Three to nine days after flowering is how long it takes to mature a pod (and 40 days from flowering to mature seed). An experienced grower suggests harvesting 4 days after flowering, regardless of length. In drought it might be 2" (5 cm) long, in warm rainy weather 6-7" (15-18 cm) Chris includes a hilarious description comparing reactions of Americans and British family and friends being served tough okra. As a fellow Brit, I laughed aloud. Buy the book, I won't spoil the suspense!
Store the unwashed pods in a cool damp place after removing the field heat.. I was intrigued at the description of Zero Energy Cool Chambers (ZECC) in India, but wonder which part of India, and if this would work in a humid climate.6
The back of the book includes a summary of Chris's 2018 variety trial and includes descriptions his observations, including pod spininess, branching and productivity.
And to end this review, no, Chris did not mention what great kindling dried okra pods make, nor what great long-lasting, weed-free mulch they provide. (I recognize you need to grow a lot of okra seed to produce enough mulch to write about!) Thanks Chris! An entertaining read, and lots of practical information, and inspiring photos!
Wow, this was a spectacular book! One of the best and more useful garden books I've read in quite a while. I grew up eating okra that my grandmother grew (or bought) and cooked but it was only recently that I discovered grilling or eating it raw. I'm a convert! It's such a highly underrated edible plant that I'm here to help spread the okra gospel!
Fantastic book---I will be buying a copy for sure because there are so many interesting tidbits I want to read again as well as get those recipes and idea on how to use it in other ways.
*I received a copy via Net Galley in exchange for my review*
Very tasty, mostly easily prepared recipes accompany Chris Smith's Ode to Okra! Interesting how he came to appreciate Okra as an adult, being from the UK, and not having grown up without the Okra experience. Very deep dive into Okra's historical roots, and origin stories, and how it is enjoyed across the planet. From the dishes of India, to the various countries of the African continent, to the southern USA, Okra is celebrated in all its deliciousness. Addresses the "love it or hate it" reaction caused by the "slime" factor, and offers cooking methods to mitigate or eliminate the slim-iness, should that be desired. Offers ways that very factor might be of benefit, as well as info on which varieties of Okra tend to be less slimey than others. Includes growing, cultivation and storage guides, too. This book came to be out the author's work with The Utopian Seed Project's Crop Stories; keeping alive the stories, production, cultivation, and preservation of ancestral Foodways. Highly recommend.
This wasn't just a cookbook but a journey into the world that is okra. Being from the South I've grow up eating this often hated vegetable and have always enjoyed it. For those who dislike it you should step into this wonderfully written book and know that okra, when done well can not only be appetizing but delicious as well. As I took my own journey into the pages and I came out on the other end much more knowledgeable. The variety of okra that is out there was astounding and I look forward to searching for different kinds in my trips to the grocery store and farmers markets in my area. There are lovely photographs throughout and one that really caught my eye showed 60 different varieties and the names each goes by. I was able to see the differences not only in coloring with some but with sizes and lengths also. As you read you realize that you are getting a fabulous exploration into the world of okra. How to grow, harvest, and maintain as well as how to freeze, pickle, and even dehydrate it. it even goes into detail about different pests and diseases and how to keep the okra from falling victim to either. I came to realize that okra as a super food with quite a few health benefits. The recipes were amazing and the ones I tried easy to follow. Being from the South I've only cooked okra in two ways before, deep fried obviously and in soups during the colder months. I was happy to try a few of the recipes in the book to get a different take on the vegetable, there is a Savory Muffin recipe that I fell in love with along with a Couscous one. There is one that I haven't gotten around to doing yet but look forward to making, it sounded so interesting called Okra Marshmallow Delights. I had a fun time diving into this cookbook and can't wait to try out more recipes, look for different varieties, and go back through it again to see if I missed anything else interesting. Okra is more than just some slimy vegetable, all its parts from flower to actual okra have so many different uses. I definitely recommend giving this cookbook a try!!!
I received an ARC of this book, all thoughts and opinions are my own.
If you love okra and want to know literally EVERY SINGLE THING you can make, eat, and do with okra this is the book for you. Chris Smith is British, so he did not grow up eating okra. But, he married a woman from South Carolina and once he had eaten really good okra he was hooked. Smith has done things with okra that I would never have dreamed of doing. He covers the history of okra, the slime issue/factor, how to best cook and preserve okra, eating okra flowers and leaves, making and using okra seed and pod flour, making paper from okra stalks, and of course how to best grow your own okra. There are several recipes included - some like the okra face mask and hair treatment might be a bit much for some people. But, there are some recipes I'd like to try and this book is definitely a great exploration of all the wonders that is okra! It was also cool that Smith and his family now live in Asheville, so lots of the resources and restaurants he referenced are ones I could actually check out. Overall, a really thorough look at one of the South's favorite vegetables.
I now know more than I need to about okra and that is a good thing! I started growing okra a few years ago and my relationship to this vegetable has changed tremendously. The shite found in grocery stores is doing terrible PR for okra. It already has so many issues especially to do with its texture—slime, gelatinous, mucousy, but when eaten fresh, it’s a gamechanger. I eat okra raw, lightly sautéed and roasted with a bit of cornflour.
And apparently, according to Chris Martin, my okra embrace is not unusual as okra exists as a central ingredient to cuisines worldwide. Knowing its history and its versatility was definitely worth the read. Martin uses archival and qualitative research along with his own experimentation and experiences to create a great resource that includes recipes and cultivation tips. He also has a MFA in Creative Writing and except for the somewhat corny conversations he has with Okra, the writing is compelling enough to take an obscure topic and make it interesting.
The Whole Okra is enthralling, literally from seed to stem! Whether you love okra or hate it, you will love this book. Smith is an excellent storyteller who weaves humor and wit throughout this meticulously researched book. While it is jam-packed with valuable information each page is entertaining and beautifully illustrated. Gardeners will be endlessly rewarded with Smith’s first-hand experience growing many dozens of varieties of okra; and cooks will be inspired by the unique recipes developed by well-regarded chefs. Smith provides bountiful information on using all parts of the plant from microgreens to flowers to fermented pods. And readers of all ages can enjoy making okra crafts from holiday ornaments to cosmetics. I’ve grown and cooked okra for more than four-decades and still learned a tremendous amount from the exceptional text and enjoyed every minute of it!
Just a quick review. I loved the book and am eager to try out all the recipes. On the plus side and adding value, the writer is from near Asheville which is more-or-less nearby (about an hours' drive from where I live. Only mentioning this because I might be able to try out some of the restaurants he mentions (I wouldn't usually go to Asheville just for a meal, but it's a really great city to visit for a weekend, even if you did not plan to eat at a restaurant you read about in a book). So, I've loved okra my whole life, but haven't tasted it any way but fried. And I'm excited, waiting for okra season to come around, maybe around a month or so from now where I live. I'm actually very excited. And I think I read this book from the library, so if I did, obviously I'll have to buy the book (insert sheepish grin here). Strongly recommend to everyone who cooks in the South.
The hardback edition of this book has a very different vibe, and it may have misled me. I was expecting something with more folklore and world history--the type of examination of single foodstuffs that I adore--and I was looking forward to it.
I do love okra, but while I admire the effort and enthusiasm here, I'm not inclined to make okra marshmallows or use dried okra husks for straws. The bulk of the book is taken up with the idea of using okra for everything possible.
I'm also not a fan of the author "talking" to okra throughout the book as if it is sentient.
I've always loved okra! It's a staple in my vegetable garden and my freezer. I've had my share of badly prepared okra so have restricted it to my home menus only. I had minimal knowledge of the history of this tasty vegetable and even less knowledge of it's beneficial properties. I just knew it tasted good! Chris Smith has done we okra lovers a favor and given us even more reasons to eat okra.
Excellent in depth gardening, cookery, food preservation, history and lore. Beautifully presented. It is rare that I buy a book I can get from the library. This is one which I felt I needed on my own bookshelves along with books on corn and peppers. Very readable too. zBring on the spring when I shall plant okra and do more with it than make slighly slimey stews and definitely slimey pickles as I have in years past. I shall have okra flower tea and more, thanks to this book.
Amazing! Even if you don't like eating okra, just the gardening sections of this book are fascinating and beautiful. The author is truly in love with okra and he shares it with passion and quirkiness.
I LOVE this book! It is dripping with enthusiasm and knowledge and multiplied my love for okra many times over. It also just helped think about food more holistically. It's multicultural without being appropriative. It's great!
A fun read that I checked out randomly from my library's ebook selection. I wish it had more info about growing okra in the home garden but I have a black thumb and always want more growing information.
I think my plant breeder husband is going to be obsessed with this book. For me it was a fun local foray with a fair amount of technical information on production. Well done but not my favorite topic.
Interesting book about okra. I really like okra. Less of an interesting book as we're not eating a lot of veg right now for digestive reasons. Great looking recipes and info on growing okra. Love learning about all the different varieties.
Best book I have read in a long time. Loved the humor of okra speaking in first person. I already loved okra but was desperate to try planting again in my own garden after reading all the amazing projects like making paper with okra fiber etc. A must read for every southerner for sure
Absolutely FASCINATING! I loved learning the history of okra, how much you can do with okra and LOVED how he connected with other small businesses throughout this book. I'm so excited for next summer's garden🥰
Fascinating book on all topics related to okra. An entertaining read if you like history, gardening, cooking, eating, crafts, world culture, or just simply curious.
Truly one of the most thought provoking books about a vegetable I think anyone has ever written. I’m now convinced that okra is the best plant of all time.