How to eat
Nigella wrote this book before she was a household name, and the book is designed to make good, home cooked, mostly British (lots of peas and lamb) food easily. In some ways it’s like a joy of cooking, an encyclopedic view of the dishes Nigella likes to cook, simple, basic and successfully. She encourages cooks to make the recipes their own, but this is not a cookbook about innovation or imagination. Like an encyclopedia, though, the book is written like a running text, and can be hard to follow though easy to read. There is no effort to separate recipes on their own pages, and sometimes no specific list of ingredients. The roast chicken recipe, for example, is “stick half a lemon up a chicken’s bottom, smear it with oil or butter, sprinkle with salt and cook at 400 for 15 minutes per pound plus 10 minutes.” There is a flow to this narrative as one recipe leads into another, bechamel leads to cheese sauce leads to parsley sauce leads to parsley and ham patties. . . Sadly, these secondary recipes are not included in the table of contents.
Nigella has a chatty tone, relating her experiences as she talks about a recipe. There are no pictures. Nigella makes no excuses for her down home approach, but you will find a few special techniques and ingredients (oddly, she uses Italian 00 flour for pie dough and sponge cake, and other difficult ingredients include orange flower water and leaf gelatin) mixed in with the devil may care approach. Basically, if it tastes good, it’s fine (except when it isn’t). Make a cake in the food processor, just add some xtra baking powder since you won’t have the airy creaming. A food isn’t in season? Who cares, except for rhubarb, Seville oranges, asparagus, gooseberries, etc. And she isn’t beyond including what she thinks rather than double checking her info for the cookbook. For example, she states she likes the Valrhona lacte which she thinks has 35% cocoa solids. And, just before her recipe for orange marmalade, she indicates she has never made it (one wonders why it’s included here).
There are exceptions to the laissez faire attitude like her complicated recipe for “real custard”, which requires filling your sink with water. I’ve made many, many custards and never filled my sink with water. And her asparagus which absolutely must be served with perfectly cooked soft-boiled eggs (for which she provides no recipe). Bacon must be mail ordered but bouillon cubes are fine.
The book starts with Nigella’s basic dishes which includes bearnaise sauce, meringues and langue de chat, and Seville orange marmalade. These basics are probably not most people’s basics. In this section, she includes a list of foods to freeze (including wine-who knew?), and a pantry section, which basically says go buy stuff at the store when you need it. The other sections are organized similarly though the more complex sections have more officially written recipes. There are also menus included and how to cook the meals for that menu. The last section is unusual in that its aimed specifically at cooking for kids.
I like a casual approach to cooking and appreciate it when Lawson gives multiple options like use sponge cake-homemade or store bought, challah or brioche in the trifle recipe. And her chapter on cooking for yourself is worth reading by any cook who feels a lot of anxiety about cooking. And her beginning sections for each chapter often include good tips.
Her quick recipe section, for example, can go far to loosening up an uptight cook who can’t approach a recipe that isn’t fancy or for which he/she doesn’t have all the ingredients (she even shares a dish she makes with processed cheese because, hey, that’s all she had). This chapter is a surprising detour from most quick food chapter that often emphasize stir fries and pastas; to Lawson’s credit, these dishes are interesting, salmon scallops with warm balsamic vinaigrette or cinnamon hot rack of lamb. But, they may not be the recipes for which most of us already have ingredients on hand (which kind of defeats the 30 minute or less expectation).
But I find some recipes lacking in steps that seem more essential than optional or at least worthy of note. Like in the moussaka recipe, for example. Lawson suggests leaving on half the peel on the eggplant, which some people will find unpleasant, and makes no mention of how greasy this is going to be if you just fry it without salting, at the least. I would like to know what I’m getting into if I go casual.
This is a unique cookbook because it seems to have no guiding principle except for whatever Nigella likes. It’s rather like hanging out with your opinionated and maybe a bit disorganized sister while she cooks and chats. There are many great dishes in here and the book is quite fun to read, but you have to be relaxed in your approach to cooking (or need a book that will help you relax). If you appreciate this approach to cooking, you’ll like this cookbook.