Most literate adults today know there is something seriously broken with our modern meat industry. The manner in which billions of animals are bred, confined, and slaughtered in a concentrated, industrial fashion has enabled people to eat more animal products more cheaply than ever before—but with the consequence of environmental crises, antibiotic resistance, and animal cruelty, among many other negatives. So, that’s when we break out another human strength—the ability to live with cognitive dissonance.
Does it really have to be this way?
This is a book about the effort to create cell-cultured or "clean" meat--that is, food products that are identical in every way to animal-derived meat, but without the need to slaughter animals. The pioneers of cultured meat noted that skin-and muscle-growing technology was already in use in the medical and research sectors and asked the question if it could be applied to the food industry at a scale that could compete with, and maybe even replace, the factory farmed-stuff on the commodity meat market.
On one hand, it seems like a moon-shot proposal. There are a lot of hurdles that still need to be overcome, and some remain quite formidable. At the same time, humanity is constantly advancing though technological leaps. The Industrial Revolution, the automobile, and the Internet all necessitated considerable changes in the structure of society. Yet we can't imagine what life without such things would even be like today.
Change has happened with major animal use industries as well. Once, not so long ago, whaling powered and lit the industrialized world. Whale oil was considered indispensable, and the great whales were driven to the brink of extinction. For even longer, horses were our sole form of transportation, and our cities were full of cart-pulling equines who often led merciless, short lives. Factory farming as we know it today is itself essentially a product of the past 50 years, a result of the drive of food corporations to raise more animals in less space as cheaply and efficiently as possible.
Indeed, in this animal-loving age of puppy kindergartens and cat cafes, we humans paradoxically subject more animals to more unrelieved suffering than at any other point in human history.
Yet it is often pointed out that people eat animal foods in spite of, not because of, the cruelty. The near-universal exclamation of “don’t tell/show me that!” arises out of the consumer’s knowledge that they aren’t going to like what they hear and it’s going to raise disquieting feelings. If they didn’t care at all, they wouldn’t react in this fashion. Wouldn't it be better if we didn't have such a fraught relationship with our food choices that even speaking honestly about their source and production causes distress, disgust, and anger?
[There are people, and probably more than most animal advocates would like to admit, who truly relish the idea of animals being killed for their meals. If clean meat were to ever replace factory-farmed meat, they'll keep doing their thing, but they'll have to put in the effort to hunt or patronize small farms and artisanal butchers; this setup would still result in many billions fewer animals suffering.]
The book points out that perhaps we need to get away from exploiting particular animals on a daily basis before we can really start caring about them. This indeed seemed to be the case for whales and horses. In addition, you’ll find fewer people ready to defend the use of animals in circuses, for fur fashion, and in cosmetics testing these days, now that these practices thankfully seem to be fading out.
After this book was published, cultured dairy--created from cows' milk proteins that are grown without the use of cows--became the first animal-free animal product to hit the market, in the form of the ice cream brand Brave Robot. I do occasionally eat this ice cream, and I also still eat plant-based ice creams made from coconut, almond, etc. milk.
Many vegetarians and vegans, myself included, aren't as keen on eating cultured animal muscle, even if it is totally cruelty-free. But, as this book pointed out, it's not for us--it's for the 90%-plus of humanity that currently does and wishes to continue consuming animal foods, and is a way to allow people to continue their preferences without all of the destructive side effects. At the very least, I would think animal advocates should want this technology to feed the many carnivorous pets whose nutritional requirements are presently filled by the byproducts of the industrial slaughter system.
[Note: In the years since this book was published, allegations have emerged that the author has himself not always behaved ethically. This review is of the ideas and concepts presented in the book, not of the author’s individual merits.]