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Vagabond: Wandering through Africa on faith
One woman. One continent.
Vagabond is Lerato Mogoatlhe’s story of her travels through twenty-one countries in Africa. Vagabond is a poetic, raw and honest diary of Lerato’s travels through Africa.
From meeting President Mbeki at an event in Timbuktu to hanging out with one of her favourite artists, Habib Koite, Vagabond is a love letter of Lerato’s discovery of herself, her home, Africa, and its people that readers will witness through her uncensored curiosity and with none of the glamour of a guidebook.
Out of the twenty-one countries visited over the five years she travelled through the continent, Lerato names Sudan, Mali, Egypt, Uganda and Kenya as her top five to visit.
Vagabond is Lerato Mogoatlhe’s story of her travels through twenty-one countries in Africa. Vagabond is a poetic, raw and honest diary of Lerato’s travels through Africa.
From meeting President Mbeki at an event in Timbuktu to hanging out with one of her favourite artists, Habib Koite, Vagabond is a love letter of Lerato’s discovery of herself, her home, Africa, and its people that readers will witness through her uncensored curiosity and with none of the glamour of a guidebook.
Out of the twenty-one countries visited over the five years she travelled through the continent, Lerato names Sudan, Mali, Egypt, Uganda and Kenya as her top five to visit.
285 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2019
11 people are currently reading
148 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews
May 14, 2020
The book is a captivating, eye opening, informative and honest account of a journey of discovery and spiritual growth. Journalist and author Lerato Mokgoatlhe writes of how, in 2008 what was supposed to be a three-month trip to West Africa, turns into five years of travel through five African regions, and twenty one African countries.
She travelled solo, on an ailing budget, mainly by road.
In Sudan she is in the mix when the voting of the split of the country takes place. She is emotionally overwhelmed after visiting the mass graves in Rwanda. Uganda, brings upon an encounter with a homophobic politician. Mali , Ethiopia and Eqypt helped build on her religious and spiritual being.
Depicted in the book is grassroots, inexpensive travel that ignites in the reader the urgent yearning to want to pack up and start back packing. To experience the varied cuisines, cultures, traditions, and religious practices in Africa.
Through lived experience Mokgoatlhe successfully manages to debunk the myth of Africa as a dark continent. She deliberately and unapologetically writes of Africa’s abundance in food, natural beauty, kindness, music and dance.
The biggest message to me was that Africa is our home, to be cherished, acknowledged and embraced.
The author managed to take me with her to the clean city of Kigali. To the groove and easy life in Kokrobite beach Ghana. The religion and spirituality in Egypt and Sudan were palpable.
She described the Urojo soup of Zanzibar in a way that I wanted to have it there and then. If the qat (nicotene leaves) where in reach, I swear I would have tried them too. She writes in a way that evokes in a reader a yearning to experiment .
Mokgoatlhe succeeds to counter the narrative of dark, war torn, famine infested and dangerous Africa. She holistically embraces the continent as home and it's inhabitants as her family. She does not dwell only on the negative, even,when relating of her stolen phone, purse and passport. She shares with empathy and context. She writes of a kind , helpful and joyous Africa that we hardly read about in western media . In the five years, she came back in one piece.
To m,e Vagabond, is self love, self discovery and self appreciation .
She travelled solo, on an ailing budget, mainly by road.
In Sudan she is in the mix when the voting of the split of the country takes place. She is emotionally overwhelmed after visiting the mass graves in Rwanda. Uganda, brings upon an encounter with a homophobic politician. Mali , Ethiopia and Eqypt helped build on her religious and spiritual being.
Depicted in the book is grassroots, inexpensive travel that ignites in the reader the urgent yearning to want to pack up and start back packing. To experience the varied cuisines, cultures, traditions, and religious practices in Africa.
Through lived experience Mokgoatlhe successfully manages to debunk the myth of Africa as a dark continent. She deliberately and unapologetically writes of Africa’s abundance in food, natural beauty, kindness, music and dance.
The biggest message to me was that Africa is our home, to be cherished, acknowledged and embraced.
The author managed to take me with her to the clean city of Kigali. To the groove and easy life in Kokrobite beach Ghana. The religion and spirituality in Egypt and Sudan were palpable.
She described the Urojo soup of Zanzibar in a way that I wanted to have it there and then. If the qat (nicotene leaves) where in reach, I swear I would have tried them too. She writes in a way that evokes in a reader a yearning to experiment .
Mokgoatlhe succeeds to counter the narrative of dark, war torn, famine infested and dangerous Africa. She holistically embraces the continent as home and it's inhabitants as her family. She does not dwell only on the negative, even,when relating of her stolen phone, purse and passport. She shares with empathy and context. She writes of a kind , helpful and joyous Africa that we hardly read about in western media . In the five years, she came back in one piece.
To m,e Vagabond, is self love, self discovery and self appreciation .
September 17, 2021
This was really well done, the personal and practical made it a really wonderful read.
'Nothing irritates me as much as the assumption that I need a man to bankroll my life or make my dreams come true. It undermines my autonomy. The only thing I need from men is for them to step out of my way and spare me their patriarchal bullshit.'
'I want to start over because I want this to be the story of my life and not just an adventure I go on. I want West Africa to recreate me so that when I return home, I will tell the story of my life in two chapters: Before and after West Africa.'
Mogoatlhe absolutely took me on her journey across Africa. She was expressive, honest, and vulnerable. I was right there with her as she enjoyed the food, people, and music. Even the unplanned nature did not dampen how much I wanted to dive right into everything she was experiencing.
Her love of music and food permeates this travelogue and with every border crossed and every festival attended, friends made, money spent was just another lesson, broadening her travelling horizons.
She is forthright with her desire and is not afraid to go after what she wants. Mogoatlhe is also very aware of the patriarchal nature that runs throughout Africa and is appreciative of how safe her journey is across the western region of the continent.
'Malians love differently, with tenderness and the utmost care of the other person’s heart. To be held with love, as Malians do, is a gift for the soul.'
Just the ways in which she shares her experiences, what she encounters, observes, and feels makes this read come alive.
'Nothing irritates me as much as the assumption that I need a man to bankroll my life or make my dreams come true. It undermines my autonomy. The only thing I need from men is for them to step out of my way and spare me their patriarchal bullshit.'
'I want to start over because I want this to be the story of my life and not just an adventure I go on. I want West Africa to recreate me so that when I return home, I will tell the story of my life in two chapters: Before and after West Africa.'
Mogoatlhe absolutely took me on her journey across Africa. She was expressive, honest, and vulnerable. I was right there with her as she enjoyed the food, people, and music. Even the unplanned nature did not dampen how much I wanted to dive right into everything she was experiencing.
Her love of music and food permeates this travelogue and with every border crossed and every festival attended, friends made, money spent was just another lesson, broadening her travelling horizons.
She is forthright with her desire and is not afraid to go after what she wants. Mogoatlhe is also very aware of the patriarchal nature that runs throughout Africa and is appreciative of how safe her journey is across the western region of the continent.
'Malians love differently, with tenderness and the utmost care of the other person’s heart. To be held with love, as Malians do, is a gift for the soul.'
Just the ways in which she shares her experiences, what she encounters, observes, and feels makes this read come alive.
April 27, 2020
It took me a while to finish this book because the first few chapters I was on the side writing down all the musical references to create a playlist for my self, than I stopped. I picked the book up again and now I want to pack my bags and book a flight across Africa. This is such a beautiful love story- love of Africa. I can’t stop thinking about the chapter Johari ( a favourite I read it twice). 🖤
January 14, 2023
My lockdown sofa safari -- sightseeing adventure from Cape to Cairo. Full of explorations: food, music & books of Africa....not forgetting people & politics, sites & monuments of this wonderfull continent. The book was my travel escape during the hard lockdown & confined conditions that came at the wake of the coronavirus pandemic.
July 16, 2020
Vagabond is a travel memoir of South African journalist, Lerato’s solo wanderings through Africa on a shoe string budget. Refusing to accept the image of gloom she was fed with, she embarked on a 3 months trip to West Africa, turned 5 years, visiting multiple countries; North, South, East and West, to see things for herself. Travelling Africa can be a daunting challenge; poor flight network, stringent visa policies, minimal information, expensive flight tickets et al. There's another layer to this for Africans travelling Africa -even more challenging! These barriers don’t hinder Lerato’s quest to explore the continent and makes me have deep appreciation for Vagabond.
.
.
As Africa is rich in diversity, so is Lerato’s account of her travels. Rich in experiences, adventure and so rich in detail, the reader is carried along.
The West African leg of the trip is definitely a highlight for me. Djenne, Mali reads like an absolute charm. Guinea is more than its lacklustre economy but boasts of stunning landscapes. Music serves as her anchor and what a treat it is to me as a lover of traditional sounds and history. I gasped reading her experience at the Festival du Desert, Timbuktu, meeting Oumou Sangare, Salif Keita and Habib Koite. Even though I am West African with fairly good knowledge about the continent, Vagabond makes me realise i must do more to travel my region and experience it for myself.
.
.
Lerato’s journey is not without challenge from facing corrupt immigration officers, missing passport to stolen phone, getting lost and finding her way. Nonetheless, she carries on. Despite its flaws, Lerato speaks of Africa in a glorious manner, embracing its good sides, not defining it by the negative stereotypes it has been accorded with by others. Through Mali, Ghana, Guinea, Tanzania, Mozambique, Uganda, Egypt, Sudan et al, one common factor is the hospitality. Strangers welcome Lerato with open arms -well, except Amadou- letting her know that Africa is her home.
.
.
With very few books published on travel by Africans, Vagabond is necessary.
.
.
As Africa is rich in diversity, so is Lerato’s account of her travels. Rich in experiences, adventure and so rich in detail, the reader is carried along.
The West African leg of the trip is definitely a highlight for me. Djenne, Mali reads like an absolute charm. Guinea is more than its lacklustre economy but boasts of stunning landscapes. Music serves as her anchor and what a treat it is to me as a lover of traditional sounds and history. I gasped reading her experience at the Festival du Desert, Timbuktu, meeting Oumou Sangare, Salif Keita and Habib Koite. Even though I am West African with fairly good knowledge about the continent, Vagabond makes me realise i must do more to travel my region and experience it for myself.
.
.
Lerato’s journey is not without challenge from facing corrupt immigration officers, missing passport to stolen phone, getting lost and finding her way. Nonetheless, she carries on. Despite its flaws, Lerato speaks of Africa in a glorious manner, embracing its good sides, not defining it by the negative stereotypes it has been accorded with by others. Through Mali, Ghana, Guinea, Tanzania, Mozambique, Uganda, Egypt, Sudan et al, one common factor is the hospitality. Strangers welcome Lerato with open arms -well, except Amadou- letting her know that Africa is her home.
.
.
With very few books published on travel by Africans, Vagabond is necessary.
March 3, 2020
What a glorious and authentic sojourning into our majestic, and misunderstood continent. Lerato's wandering through Africa is done with such integrity, and intentionality to tell a better story of our continent, it not only captivates you as the reader but also makes you feel like you are an invisible co-traveller with her. I felt the many emotions Lerato goes through...the nervous expectation of leaving what's familiar for what's unfamiliar, the joys of meeting strangers and them becoming family, the heartaches of reckoning with the ghosts of the continent's history, the speechlessness of being awed by the beauty of the continent. It is not just a memoir, it is a love story. You will fall in love with Africa, and embrace her complexities.
May 9, 2022
This book lived up to its title “Vagabond: Wandering through Africa on faith”, from the first chapter when Lerato got to Dakar, I have been on the edge reading through her stories from being scammed from the get go. She went through it all, staying in kind strangers home, being swindled and also experiencing the beauty of Africa. It also gives a glimpse of what to expect when travelling these African countries, from Visa applications, foreign currencies, languages, culture and night life in some cities. Oh I loved the glimpse of Rwanda that she experienced and the Vagabond chapter.
January 18, 2020
very apt of me to finish this on a bench in joburg -- captivating book from start to finish
August 26, 2020
A diary of a drifter
"I had had enough of writing about people living their wildest dreams. It was time to see what the story of my life would be" _Lerato
Consumed by wonderlust, the bravery that is Lerato to intentionally pack her bags and travel Africa, alone with no sense of direction nor enough savings is a scary thought, something that most of us would have to think twice or wouldn't even dare because "who does that"? also the propaganda we've been fed about most of our African countries is totally questionable after reading Vagabond, peharps Mogadishu is not a nightmare after all?
For me, it felt like i was wondering through the countries with her, totally immersing herself in the culture of the places she visited is truly inspiring , she took me to the clean city, Kigali, the groove and life in Kokrobite Ghana, emotions were felt throughout her travels, the hardships and religions, i got a sense of different people in different countries, and an appreciation for them. Apart from feeling a disconnect when she mentions the many people she came across, the book definitely put a few on my 'must visit' list and interesting reflections.
Also, thank you for the music Lerato 🎶. The religion and spirituality in Egypt and Sudan were palpable.
"I had had enough of writing about people living their wildest dreams. It was time to see what the story of my life would be" _Lerato
Consumed by wonderlust, the bravery that is Lerato to intentionally pack her bags and travel Africa, alone with no sense of direction nor enough savings is a scary thought, something that most of us would have to think twice or wouldn't even dare because "who does that"? also the propaganda we've been fed about most of our African countries is totally questionable after reading Vagabond, peharps Mogadishu is not a nightmare after all?
For me, it felt like i was wondering through the countries with her, totally immersing herself in the culture of the places she visited is truly inspiring , she took me to the clean city, Kigali, the groove and life in Kokrobite Ghana, emotions were felt throughout her travels, the hardships and religions, i got a sense of different people in different countries, and an appreciation for them. Apart from feeling a disconnect when she mentions the many people she came across, the book definitely put a few on my 'must visit' list and interesting reflections.
Also, thank you for the music Lerato 🎶. The religion and spirituality in Egypt and Sudan were palpable.
April 19, 2021
I made reading this book into an adventure and armchair travels of my own. I listened to a great deal of the music she mentions (especially Khadji Nin, who has been one of my favourite artists since 1994) and followed her travels with my atlas alongside me. This made for greater involvement and the most enjoyable 'trip'. I also learnt so many new words and names of food and drink foreign to me. For this I made a list for quick reference for insertion in my copy of the book.
Interestingly, when writing about Burundi, her words "look inwards, instead of outwards to International aid" speak volumes and reflects my son's expressed sentiment on his experience living for some time in Malawi.
One question - if Ethiopia was never colonised, why is there a Churchill Avenue in its capital?
There is no doubt that she has a passion for Africa. Her summing up of Mali is lovely - " Flavour, creativity, poor but rich with love as a gift for the soul".
I would have given a 5star rating, but felt it a pity that she is generally unashamedly scathing about 'mzungus'.
Interestingly, when writing about Burundi, her words "look inwards, instead of outwards to International aid" speak volumes and reflects my son's expressed sentiment on his experience living for some time in Malawi.
One question - if Ethiopia was never colonised, why is there a Churchill Avenue in its capital?
There is no doubt that she has a passion for Africa. Her summing up of Mali is lovely - " Flavour, creativity, poor but rich with love as a gift for the soul".
I would have given a 5star rating, but felt it a pity that she is generally unashamedly scathing about 'mzungus'.
September 19, 2024
Tinka: Short review:
This book is a must read if you want to understand the way we as Africans love and enjoy our continent. Lerato captures the textures, warmth, chaotic charm and diverse mix of lifestyle, culture, food, economic realities of travel in this continent. Her description is factual, not philosophical, but every now and then there is strong critique in the way “the world” classifies Africa.
Her journey is underpinned by local and continental music and dance – a power to unite people from the east to the west of Africa. Food further adds touches of diverse living conditions and natural environments of this
Favourite part of the book (or most hated part):
The way in which Lerato highlights the struggle of women and the gay community in various countries is a theme which I found very interesting. The capture of aspects of ancient civilisations such as the Timbuktu scripts and the pyramids in Egypt compared to the poverty in Sahel, illustrates the passage of time.
This book is a must read if you want to understand the way we as Africans love and enjoy our continent. Lerato captures the textures, warmth, chaotic charm and diverse mix of lifestyle, culture, food, economic realities of travel in this continent. Her description is factual, not philosophical, but every now and then there is strong critique in the way “the world” classifies Africa.
Her journey is underpinned by local and continental music and dance – a power to unite people from the east to the west of Africa. Food further adds touches of diverse living conditions and natural environments of this
Favourite part of the book (or most hated part):
The way in which Lerato highlights the struggle of women and the gay community in various countries is a theme which I found very interesting. The capture of aspects of ancient civilisations such as the Timbuktu scripts and the pyramids in Egypt compared to the poverty in Sahel, illustrates the passage of time.
December 18, 2021
This book was competing with Sihle Khumalos travel memoir and I chose it over SK because Lerato is a female and I was intrigued to hear her experience of travelling solo on this beautiful continent of ours as a black female from South Africa (quite uncommon). Lerato is gutsy, open-minded and has a great love for our continent which is evident. Her choice of travel is very brave, something I would never do- and that's what adds beauty to this memoir. My takeaway was the fact that one shouldn't have to hold back exploring Africa because of money- and thats only if you are willing to rough it out as depicted.
The book was easy to follow and enjoyable.
The book was easy to follow and enjoyable.
October 31, 2022
So she is no Chinua Achebe in that the words she writes do not read as effortlessly or beautifully. And I did sometimes get lost with the characters of her tale given how fast she introduced them and then swept them away only to sometimes introduce them later like I know them?
All that said, it is definitely a fantastic read and a unique find. The content of traveling the different African countries and telling the story of the little nuances that make them unique - she just hit a pleasure bone there for me. Thanks Lerato for this book.
All that said, it is definitely a fantastic read and a unique find. The content of traveling the different African countries and telling the story of the little nuances that make them unique - she just hit a pleasure bone there for me. Thanks Lerato for this book.
November 30, 2024
This is a beautiful read for anyone who loves travel and holds Africa close to their heart. As a South African, this book resonates deeply with my belief in the magic of the African continent. Lerato’s managed to tell the rich story of this continent through its people without dumbing down their lived experiences. It genuinely feels like her love letter to Africa and the kindness of its people.
September 8, 2021
This book feels like a beautiful love letter to our beautiful continent, a soothing FU in the face to everyone who spend their days declaring Africa to be a dark continent, I love it here, I loved it here…
Read
August 10, 2019Unfortunately
February 16, 2022
Written with a big heart, wit and wisdom, Lerato's travels across the continent are a testament to the oneness of all it's people and a reminder that these borders are artificial, unnatural and unnecessary. Viva Africa
March 16, 2022
The experience of traveling and experiencing the rich cultures.... love it
August 13, 2022
This book is a gift that transports you through time and space and captures the essence of the spirit of the people of the African continent.
October 12, 2025
This was such a privilege to read. Lerato’s description of her experiences feel magical and she does a wonderful job of transporting readers with her across Africa, particularly when describing the Festival in the Desert. I could picture the people, landscape, and music, just beautiful.
She is clear throughout the book that she is aiming to add nuance to how the continent is written about and she does an excellent job at it. From reading about the kindness and selflessness of the people in Sudan and Burundi, to the chaos of Ethiopia, to how Rwanda remembers its gut wrenching history and the bravery of the beautiful LGBT+ community in Uganda. I was transfixed.
She also mentions different songs, artists and food that I found myself googling as I read. I finished this book with an upgraded Spotify playlist as well as new foods and countries to add to my bucket list. Thank you!
She is clear throughout the book that she is aiming to add nuance to how the continent is written about and she does an excellent job at it. From reading about the kindness and selflessness of the people in Sudan and Burundi, to the chaos of Ethiopia, to how Rwanda remembers its gut wrenching history and the bravery of the beautiful LGBT+ community in Uganda. I was transfixed.
She also mentions different songs, artists and food that I found myself googling as I read. I finished this book with an upgraded Spotify playlist as well as new foods and countries to add to my bucket list. Thank you!
February 27, 2024
Alright so
This has awoken a deep and urgent wanderlust for Africa in me, that has been sleeping for quite a few years. The author is so good at drawing you into these daring stories of exploration and discovery, I smelled every aroma, ate every declicious dish and travelled every bumpy road through Vagabond. But I did find myself wondering, while reading some of the pointed comparisons with South Africa, if the author has given herself the chance to explore her own country in such an open and curious way yet. I wish that by the time I'm reading and writing this, she has. I would like to read something like this about the South as well. A solid four stars nonetheless. I'm definitely going back to the drawing board and will try to travel beyond just the Southern countries of the continent, and I know where to start!
This has awoken a deep and urgent wanderlust for Africa in me, that has been sleeping for quite a few years. The author is so good at drawing you into these daring stories of exploration and discovery, I smelled every aroma, ate every declicious dish and travelled every bumpy road through Vagabond. But I did find myself wondering, while reading some of the pointed comparisons with South Africa, if the author has given herself the chance to explore her own country in such an open and curious way yet. I wish that by the time I'm reading and writing this, she has. I would like to read something like this about the South as well. A solid four stars nonetheless. I'm definitely going back to the drawing board and will try to travel beyond just the Southern countries of the continent, and I know where to start!
January 3, 2025
This book evoked evoked all of the feels: anger, excitement, sadness, joy, disbelief, reverence,despair, gratitude, funny AF and if you have been to some of the African countries…you can definitely deeply relate to all of these feels.
It also covered so many profound and powerful themes like spirituality, patriarchy, sexuality, culture, religion, history, feminism, pan-africanism all while travelling through this brave and beautiful continent of ours we call AFRIKA.
If you have not read it and are looking to be entertained and educated all in the same breath and heartbeat, this is the book you have been waiting for. Definitely in my top 10 best books of all time.
It also covered so many profound and powerful themes like spirituality, patriarchy, sexuality, culture, religion, history, feminism, pan-africanism all while travelling through this brave and beautiful continent of ours we call AFRIKA.
If you have not read it and are looking to be entertained and educated all in the same breath and heartbeat, this is the book you have been waiting for. Definitely in my top 10 best books of all time.
September 19, 2023
If you want to pack your bags and leave, go straight to this book to get teaser and suggestions on places to visit in Africa through the eyes of an author. This book is well rewritten, experiences that makes you want to up and go to Africa to experience it yourself
Different cultures, meeting up strangers who becomes friends and eventually family. Meeting people through social media and their become the biggest part of your life in real life. This book is everything. I recommend it
Different cultures, meeting up strangers who becomes friends and eventually family. Meeting people through social media and their become the biggest part of your life in real life. This book is everything. I recommend it
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews