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136 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2003



Cooking is the transformation of uncertainty (the recipe) into certainty (the dish) via fuss.Brilliant, the very essence, should be included in OED.
How many cookbooks do you have?Proud to say that I passed the test! I scouted through my culinary books (too embarrassed to say how many), scattered throughout the house (I was delighted that Barnes also has them just about everywhere in his house), to find all the texts that Barnes reveres. From Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management (“our family kitchen Bible”) to his “favourite cookery text” Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book. Here are his two culinary goddesses “I won’t hear a word against Jane Grigson, even from myself” and “I revere Elizabeth David”, and the third one, “one of the heroes of my kitchen, Edouard de Pomiane.”
(a) Not enough
(b) Just the right number
(c) Too many?
If you answered (b) you are disqualified for lying or complacency or not being interested in food or (scariest of all) having worked out everything perfectly. You score points for (a) and also for (c), but to score maximum points you need to have answered (a) and (c) in equal measure. (a) because there is always something new to be learned, someone coming along to make it all clearer, easier, more foolproof, more authentic; (c) because of the regular mistakes made when applying (a).
