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320 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2002
I first went to France in the summer of 1959 at the age of thirteen. [...] Over the next few summers we would loop our way through different regions of France, mostly avoiding large cities and always avoiding Paris. We would visit châteaux and churches, grottoes and mueums, inducing in my a lifelong phobia for the guided tour. [...]
And then there was the formidable eccentricity of the food. Their butter was wanly unsalted, blood came out of their meat, and they would put anything, absolutely anything, into soup. They grew perfectly edible tomatoes and then doused them in foul vinaigrette; ditto lettuce, ditto carrots, ditto beetroot. [...] Bread was good (but see butter0; chips were good (but see meat); vegetables were unpredictable. [Preface]
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In the spring of 1998 I was on a walking holiday in the Vercors, south of Grenoble. On a perfect May morning, two of us were traversing a high upland plateau just below the snowline. Turf impeccable enough to relay fairways at Augusta was crossed by thin, pure streams; here, in boastful profusion — Nature showing what it can do when left alone — were a billion gentians, edelweiss, dwarf narcissi, buttercups, and orchids; we glimpsed what was probably a small fox, depending on how big marmots grow. [...] As the grass track gave way to semi-asphalt, we encountered another item from changeless France: a peasant pasturing his goats on the public hedgeside. He was ancient, rubicund, and toothless, accompanied by a psychotically hostile dog of mixed ancestry [chapter one | An Englishman Abroad]
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the singers who roared from my squeaky French player with a stylus-weight of about two kilos were all local: Brassens and Brel, Vian and Reggiani; high-boho Léo Ferré, pointedly engagé Jean Ferrat, soufflée-voiced Ingénieur des Ponts et Chausées Guy Béart, lugubrious Anne Vanderlove, bouncy Georges Chelon, yearning Barbara, chubbily smutty Pierre Perret, winsome Anne Sylvestre, and promising Rennes-born débutant Jacques Bertin. I gave a polite nod to earlier generations (Piaf, Trenet, Rossi), a shrug to the international cabaret artists (Aznavour, Distel, the ear-cupping Becaud), a pained smile to that [...] [Chapter 2 | Spending Their Deaths on Holiday]