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Selling 'em by the Sack: White Castle and the Creation of American Food
A sweeping history of the quintessential "American food"―the hamburger
In the wake of World War I, the hamburger was still considered a disreputable and undesirable food. Yet by 1930 Americans in every corner of the country accepted the hamburger as a mainstream meal and eventually made it a staple of their diet. The quintessential "American" food, hamburgers have by now spread to almost every country and culture in the world. But how did this fast food icon come to occupy so quickly such a singular role in American mass culture?
In Selling ‘em By the Sack , David Gerard Hogan traces the history of the hamburger's rise as a distinctive American culinary and ethnic symbol through the prism of one of its earliest promoters. The first to market both the hamburger and the "to go" carry-out style to American consumers, White Castle quickly established itself as a cornerstone of the fast food industry. Its founder, Billy Ingram, shrewdly marketed his hamburgers in large quantities at five cents a piece, telling his customers to "Buy'em by the Sack."
The years following World War II saw the rise of great franchised chains such as McDonald's, which challenged and ultimately overshadowed the company that Billy Ingram founded. Yet White Castle stands as a charismatic pioneer in one of America's most formidable industries, a company that drastically changed American eating patterns, and hence, American life. It could be argued that what Henry Ford did for the car and transportation, Billy Ingram did for the hamburger and eating.
In the wake of World War I, the hamburger was still considered a disreputable and undesirable food. Yet by 1930 Americans in every corner of the country accepted the hamburger as a mainstream meal and eventually made it a staple of their diet. The quintessential "American" food, hamburgers have by now spread to almost every country and culture in the world. But how did this fast food icon come to occupy so quickly such a singular role in American mass culture?
In Selling ‘em By the Sack , David Gerard Hogan traces the history of the hamburger's rise as a distinctive American culinary and ethnic symbol through the prism of one of its earliest promoters. The first to market both the hamburger and the "to go" carry-out style to American consumers, White Castle quickly established itself as a cornerstone of the fast food industry. Its founder, Billy Ingram, shrewdly marketed his hamburgers in large quantities at five cents a piece, telling his customers to "Buy'em by the Sack."
The years following World War II saw the rise of great franchised chains such as McDonald's, which challenged and ultimately overshadowed the company that Billy Ingram founded. Yet White Castle stands as a charismatic pioneer in one of America's most formidable industries, a company that drastically changed American eating patterns, and hence, American life. It could be argued that what Henry Ford did for the car and transportation, Billy Ingram did for the hamburger and eating.
218 pages, Paperback
First published December 1, 1997
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153 people want to read
About the author
David Gerard Hogan
2 booksDavid Gerard Hogan received his doctorate in history from Carnegie Mellon University and is currently Associate Professor of American History at Heidelberg College in Ohio.
His strongest interest is in modern American social history, and he offers courses in women's, African-American and education history, as well as period courses. Dr. Hogan is a well-known scholar of the American fast-food industry and has published a history of White Castle.
His strongest interest is in modern American social history, and he offers courses in women's, African-American and education history, as well as period courses. Dr. Hogan is a well-known scholar of the American fast-food industry and has published a history of White Castle.
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Displaying 1 - 11 of 11 reviews
January 2, 2021
A book not just about White Castle but about how hamburgers became an American mainstream and helped to create a fast-food industry. It was not the book I expected when first given the book after visiting with the nice owners of White Castle years ago. It’s interesting that while I didn’t eat at any of the restaurants highlighted by this book, I was probably one of the few Ohioans who read this book about an Ohio based, but not born, company.
Arby’s, Automats, Bob’s Big Boy, Burger Chef, Burger King, Burger Queen, Chicken Delight, Church’s Chicken, Frisch’s Big Boy (a competing company), Harvey House, Howard Johnson’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Long John Silver’s, McDonald’s, Steak N Shake, Taco Bell, Wendy’s, White Castle, and White Tower are all mentioned in this book.
The author does a decent job speaking about how American changing also provided change in how we eat – and the changes to the various restaurants and fast food. Among the first fast food was White Castle, started in 1921 in Wichita. A short order cook, Walt Anderson, asked for financing repeatedly but came up short but finally was able to scrap together $80 and started his business. He built four hamburger stands then joined together with Billy Ingram who brought more money to the business and vision. They started to build white ‘castles’ that looked like the last building standing in Chicago after the 1871 fire.
The Ingram’s were soon in control, moving it from Kansas to Columbus later, building stores and setting the course of their operation – quick food, real burgers, white outfits to work. Then the book takes the reader through the challenges – the competitors, the food shortage during WWII, the depression, WWI, WWII, the move to Columbus, the violence, moving into the suburbs, the competition, moving to Columbus, workforce issues, labor organizing, gas restrictions, price controls, then the major competition. One keeps interested because one knows some but not all the future.
Quick, fun, and interesting stories keep this book as a must read for those who love Ohio – or fast food.
Arby’s, Automats, Bob’s Big Boy, Burger Chef, Burger King, Burger Queen, Chicken Delight, Church’s Chicken, Frisch’s Big Boy (a competing company), Harvey House, Howard Johnson’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Long John Silver’s, McDonald’s, Steak N Shake, Taco Bell, Wendy’s, White Castle, and White Tower are all mentioned in this book.
The author does a decent job speaking about how American changing also provided change in how we eat – and the changes to the various restaurants and fast food. Among the first fast food was White Castle, started in 1921 in Wichita. A short order cook, Walt Anderson, asked for financing repeatedly but came up short but finally was able to scrap together $80 and started his business. He built four hamburger stands then joined together with Billy Ingram who brought more money to the business and vision. They started to build white ‘castles’ that looked like the last building standing in Chicago after the 1871 fire.
The Ingram’s were soon in control, moving it from Kansas to Columbus later, building stores and setting the course of their operation – quick food, real burgers, white outfits to work. Then the book takes the reader through the challenges – the competitors, the food shortage during WWII, the depression, WWI, WWII, the move to Columbus, the violence, moving into the suburbs, the competition, moving to Columbus, workforce issues, labor organizing, gas restrictions, price controls, then the major competition. One keeps interested because one knows some but not all the future.
Quick, fun, and interesting stories keep this book as a must read for those who love Ohio – or fast food.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
November 12, 2023
Another glorious book about food! This book really takes you back through the past of the burger chain. It almost feels like you are there if I am being honest. After reading it, it is very clear why the chain is still around today despite all of the challenges faced along the way. I think it is amazing how big of an impact it has had on American cuisine. Who knows what the other chains would look like had it not been for White Castle's existence. It appears that these bigger chains that are around today (ex: McDonald's, Burger King, Wendy's etc.) got their inspiration from the castles. That alone is pretty extraordinary to think about, especially considering the size of the privately owned hamburger chain.
I learned a lot while reading this book and found it to be extremely interesting. I think a lot of foodies will love it as well.
I learned a lot while reading this book and found it to be extremely interesting. I think a lot of foodies will love it as well.
July 28, 2025
Everything you wanted to know about White Castle and the origins of burgers and fast food and more. Enjoyable jaunt through the history of the White Castle system. When my family moved from Chicago to the suburbs and there was no longer a White Castle near us, my father made sure that every time we went back to visit family on the South Side, we would stop at the White Castle at 63rd and Cicero on the way home. While other families were eating seconds at Thanksgiving, we were saving room for White Castle on the way home. Makes me hungry just thinking about them.
May 2, 2024
Very interesting. Didn't know White Castle was the largest burger chain in the country at one time, or that they invented the paper napkin, the paper restaraunt hat and coffee's half-n-half. Written in the style of a college thesis, but never the less, recommend.
February 1, 2020
Very interesting book, as much for White Castle history as US history. My only complaint is that this reads like a lengthy research paper. A little dry, unlike White Castle's delicious hamburgers!
October 20, 2012
Selling em by the Sack tells not only the story of White Castle and how it evolved but also how the Hamburger became a truly American food. White Castle predated the fast food revolution by almost thirty years and this story looks at how the simple concept of hamburgers, soda and coffee made a small time empire of food. The uniqueness of White Castle has always been the fact that unlike the fast food empires of the 1950’s they never franchised keeping only corporate stores in primarily urban areas and were open 24 hours from the beginning. The idea that the hamburger would become a staple was not a given and White Castle strove to provide courteous service with a cleanly environment that helped to sell its product. As the depression was weathered and World War II began the workforce of White Castle was drained away calling a new generation of women to the forefront. Crime following World War II and urban decay with suburban flight hindered White Castle with robberies and theft becoming a rampant problem in their establishments. While the castles tolerated the homeless using them as a shelter the reputation of the company began to suffer and a rebranding and overhaul of the stores began. For those looking for a business overview this will not be a choice for you as it really seeks to put White Castle in a historical context but does offer some business insights along the way. For those looking for a social history of American Food this is a great book to any collection on that area.
September 20, 2013
Required reading for all White Castle fans.
The history of White Castle and the Founding Fathers of American Fast Food (forgive the alliteration). Interesting and informative, as well as an appetite inducing book. Calls to mind (and explains) the memory of this baby-boomers grandparents, grand-uncles and aunts who had the (what I thought to be) curious habit of drinking coffee with their White Castle hamburgers.
Decent summary history of the birth, growth and maturing of the fast food industry in general. Rightly gives credit where credit is due. Also contains a good lesson in business managment for aspiring MBA's and general students of business.
The history of White Castle and the Founding Fathers of American Fast Food (forgive the alliteration). Interesting and informative, as well as an appetite inducing book. Calls to mind (and explains) the memory of this baby-boomers grandparents, grand-uncles and aunts who had the (what I thought to be) curious habit of drinking coffee with their White Castle hamburgers.
Decent summary history of the birth, growth and maturing of the fast food industry in general. Rightly gives credit where credit is due. Also contains a good lesson in business managment for aspiring MBA's and general students of business.
June 19, 2009
Surprisingly interesting and well-written. Best hamburger books I've ever read.
Read
February 7, 2014Had a wonderful time reading this book. Especially when my history professor from Heidelberg is the one that wrote it.
March 21, 2013
Insights into the history of American food culture framed through the history of the first, somewhat forgotten fast food chain.
December 25, 2013
Used this book for a research piece I was doing on fast food. There were some interesting parts about how White Castle standardized the fast food industry.
Displaying 1 - 11 of 11 reviews