This was not quite the work I was expecting - I was thinking more The State of Africa by Martin Meredith, a kind of sweeping, wide-ranging continental history, but it was really more like a personal memoir or a series of articles each relating to an African country and mildly edited to attempt some kind of coherence and narrative structure. Still, the book proclaims Dowden to be "the finest living African correspondent" - and you do kind of see why. He delivers his dispatches with a depth of perspective and feeling that most reporters struggle to devote even to their home countries; one gets the sense that even if he doesn't understand or ultimately hasn't integrated himself into the continent, he feels deeply and intimately for its countries. We share his evident greyscale disillusionment with certain countries - the Democratic Republic of the Congo, for instance, which seems never to have achieved anything remotely like successful state functionality - and his love for uniquely African traits that he celebrates.
I don't normally enjoy these essay compendia - but the writing was very compelling; the initial chapter, set in Uganda, tells us not about its history nor its politics but merely about the warmth and welcoming nature of its culture - we learn through charming anecdotes of the interesting nature of the Ugandan greetings (which are typically repetitions of the same words in different tones, something Dowden convincingly argues embodies mutual respect and listening) and the insidious Western influence that a young-ish, socialist Dowden laments, telling us of students who want to lead Western lifestyles; who steal and ruin their lives simply for a single day of appearing wealthy and Western.
A recurring theme in the chapters is the idea of Big Men in African culture. One of the most depressing recurrences in African politics is the unshakeable prevalence of corruption - whether particularly egregious examples like Congo's Mobutu Sese Seko and Kenya's Daniel arap Moi or more systemic instances like Nigeria, where every dictator (Sani Abacha being the worst offender) - billions of dollars are repeatedly funneled out of these countries and laundered through the international financial system back into dictators' personal accounts. The book stunned me with the adducement of arap Moi's intricately designed money-laundering system, one that literally drained something like 25% of economic growth out of the economy. Yet while many in the West - in particular, the good-governance freaks at the World Bank and the IMO - are quick to hold up principles of good and clean governance as something to strive toward, Dowden insightfully argues that corruption and wealth by leaders are almost welcomed, in a sense, by Africans - for in their culture, to become rich and successful when in a position of power is a sign of success; he points to the example of a feckless minister in Nigeria who sought to set a precedent for clean politics, only to be laughed out of governance by voters unconvinced by his ability to gain benefits either for himself or his constituency.
Dowden has an astonishing mastery of the cultures of Africa - I especially enjoyed reading his thoughts on Somalia and the Somalis, who reside in one of the world's most consistently violent and powerless states yet prove to be some of the most entrepreneurial globally; it turns out, this is rooted in Somali culture. Of course, Dowden is never naive enough to suggest that culture explains all problems, but it is certainly refreshing to have an evidently carefully considered, bottom-up examination of the continent rather than a clinical, sterilised report from a distant international organisation.
Chapters on Amin, Sese Seko and Bashir prove way above the typical level in reportage; while each twenty-page chapter may not cover the same breadth as an average book on these subjects, Dowden never fails to equip us with a stunningly intricate level of detail and consciousness - the uniqueness of the terrain in Southern Sudan, the evils of over-reliance on aid in Uganda, and the horrific deliberate strategy of Sese Seko in deliberately allowing the roads in Eastern Congo to fall into disrepair to prevent an internal rebellion.
Particularly enjoyable chapters were those on Angola - who ever knew that the FNLA was in fact run by Portuguese settlers? - and the AIDS epidemic, where Dowden deftly marries stunning, horrific statistical realities with heart-wrenching personal narratives. Less enjoyable were those on Ethiopia and Senegal - the former is simply too complex a country to fit in a single chapter, while the latter chapter seemed slightly misguided and incongruent, starting with a gorgeous anecdote about an African success story then suddenly becoming a wistful reflection on Africa as a whole.
I thought more could have been said about the increasing role China is playing in Africa, and especially the disproportionate impact climate change will wreak on Africa. I wished that instead of merely bashing aid, Dowden would suggest alternative solutions. I hoped that Dowden would examine the quasi-colonial mindset and relationship Britain and France continue to hold with their former colonies. I would have liked a more analytical outlook and greater emphasis on causality - only by focusing on past issues that continue to recur today can Africa genuinely escape its vicious cycle of poverty and war. But his conclusion, that only Africans can fix Africa, was extremely sobering: it reminds us of how much trouble the West has caused, but also of how much Africa is depending on the materialisation of good leadership in its coming decades. Even an internationally popular leader like Paul Kagame does not get let off the hook lightly here, and so having adopted a shade of Dowden's affections and hopes for the continent, I too hope that Africa will find its way.