“In South America, praise be, you can kiss your wife on a crowded downtown sidewalk without causing anyone to stare. You can even kiss another man on both cheeks for that matter (…)”
This book was a surprise, as it is unexpectedly, truly, impressively remarkable. A triumph, we could say. A riotous triumph, even.
Turns out I’ve read it close to 70 years after it being written and close to 30 years after first publication, and it still proved to be unputdownable, as is the case say with the best travel books by Theroux (to whom I’ll return, because coincidences!), for instance: I got enraptured with almost all of it.
It’s unfathomable to me how this took 4 decades to see the light of day. Maybe it was too candid (as an example, the man detested New Zealand with a passion, and it shows: “Plan your trip to avoid the place. This is not hard to do; only Tristan da Cunha is harder to reach, harder to leave. (…) If you ever follow the route we took, turn north when you leave Australia and see the Philippines and Japan instead; thus you will not be wasting your money.”) or too different as a travel (and couple relationship?) book in the 50s (I have no idea)?
“But it is not surprising that most Argentinos want to live in the capital, if possible; it is a charming, beautiful metropolis, not an overgrown village in search of a soul like some of our own that I won't mention for fear of being lynched. It has more than two hundred parks and plazas, some of them of great size, all of them of great beauty, abounding in flowers and trees and statuary.”
Let’s try and articulate some thoughts and considerations.
So first, there’s the Heinlein couple: A loving record of a marriage of equals.
This is as much a travel book as a record of the dynamics of a marriage couple (through mostly good days, but also some trying stretches), in a relationship of truly equals. There’s love, respect and companionship in droves. Both of them are complex, diverse and fascinating personalities—richly defined and generously offered to the readers—, and that’s extremely well conveyed in the narrative. Alone, this dimension of the book makes it already something precious, but there’s so much more.
Then second, there’s the trip: Travelling around the world, in the 50s, using the passenger cabin sections of freighter ships, throughout the Southern Hemisphere!
Virginia Heinlein pulled this off and it is genius. This is “travel” in the most honored tradition of the term since time immemorial. What a trip. What-a-trip! How envious I am. How grateful that this got put into writing so expertly and so vividly by such an author! Believe me: Wow!
They went to Tristan da Cunha!
“But there is one place left on earth which has long been settled and has a recognized, established government which cannot be reached by any regular means whatever, but only through lucky chance. It is Tristan da Cunha, a British colony in the South Atlantic, almost precisely midway between Antarctica, South America, and Africa. It is 1500 miles from the nearest land, St. Helena, a spot itself so remote that it was picked as a safe prison for Napoleon Bonaparte after he crushed out of Elba. (…) Wars, psychoanalysis, mass production, traffic, atomics, Marxism, airplanes, female emancipation, Hollywood, Kaiserism, suffragettes, paved roads and automobiles, market crash and depression, Sex Appeal and "It" girls, ENIAC, these things never happened. We are closer to Benjamin Franklin than we are to these people. (…) It was very hard for us to talk with them. We shared the same language, English, and their accent and idiom was not as difficult for American ears as, for example, Yorkshire; what we lacked was common experience. A detective in Sao Paulo could tell us, without language, that he was watching for pickpockets; we both knew what pickpockets were. We shared with the detective a common culture, Western and urban; lack of language was a mere nuisance to be circumvented. But with these islanders, although our language included theirs (their vocabulary is, for obvious reasons, quite limited), there was very little that could be said with it. We could ask direct questions about simple things—boats, sheep, weather, potatoes, fish. They would answer, readily enough, in simple declaratives—and there the conversation would bog down. Discussion was out of the question.”
It is true that a lot has changed in these last 70 years since the trip was taken, but the essence of the soul of the places, as expertly registered by Heinlein, I reckon to be mostly the same. Maybe not NZ: I travelled there for 2 weeks in 2018 and the lodgings, the food and the wine were all, let’s say, a marked improvement over what the Heinleins experienced (I mean, everything was brilliant) … but even here I’m not so sure about the people (I wasn’t there time enough nor was I “travelling”, just “touristing”). Anyway, what they endured was surely made into great reading!
When people go adventuring, like the Heinleins did, they run the risk of getting an experience like the following immediately after spending more than a week in the suite normally chosen by “Mr. Rockefeller” when staying at the Raffles in Singapore (which makes for amazing reading, which the stay at the Raffles does not!):
“(…) the worst thing about the ship was that it was filthy dirty. The ship had no purser; the chief steward, an Indonesian, doubled in brass and carried out neither the duties of a purser nor the duties of a chief steward properly. In consequence his Chinese staff, with whom he could communicate only through his Chinese assistant, ran the ship to suit themselves. Now it is an unpleasant fact that lower-class Chinese have no notion at all of Western concepts of sanitation; this is not a racist remark, it is simply a fact. Inasmuch as the stewards in this ship received no instruction in these matters and were subjected to little or no discipline, they did as they pleased—and what they pleased was often disgusting. (…) While we were not well off in first class, the passengers in second class and in third were in squalor. Second and third class in the Ruys were modest indeed, but they were spotless and smelled clean. In this ship they were filthy, reeking holes with a stench better left undescribed. The major shortcoming about ship travel is that, if you do have the bad luck to get a bad ship, you are stuck with it as thoroughly as if you had received a jail sentence. For three endless weeks we could have quit this ship only at Djakarta—which we would have done had Djakarta been an improvement, which it is not. (…) Here are two facts which illuminate but do not tell all. After three hundred and fifty years of Dutch rule 92% of the natives could not read or write—nor did Batavia, the capital city, have anything resembling modern sanitation. These facts prove little, but they do cast doubt on the validity of the long-standing reputation the Dutch have enjoyed for being the world's ideal colonials. To my simple mind a lack of schools and sewers after centuries of rule spells exploitation of the natives—not benign paternalism. (…) Singapore is a city, a true metropolis, of slightly less than a million; Djakarta is a village of more than three million—it lacks almost every attribute of a city save people.”
My issue with the book is exactly the same I have with the travel books of Paul Theroux, on the same point. Namely, the United States has its faults, but it is clearly the best, the greatest country in the World, the bright light on the hill, the shining hope of the human race, etc. I mean, I do get this: “I myself am very weary of being told by scornful Europeans that we have no culture. In the first place it simply is not true, even in the snooty sense in which the sneer is usually put, as in painting, music, and literature we are lustily productive. But in the widest sense we have made the greatest cultural contribution of any society to date, by demonstrating that 160,000,000 people can live together in peace and freedom. Nothing else in all history even approaches this cultural accomplishment, and sneers at our "culture" are both laughable and outrageously presumptuous when emanating from a continent that habitually wallows in its own blood. I'll take Coca-Cola, thank you; it may be vulgar, no doubt it is simply impossibly American, it may lack the bouquet of a Continental wine—but it is not flavored with ancient fratricidal insanities.” But this is not the issue. (The Maori guide being “racist” because she praises her culture and defend her heritage would be…) Anyway, I’m not expanding on this here, as ultimately, it’s no big deal, just an irritation.
Ok, the coincidences…
Heinlein identifying something seriously bothering him in 1953: “The most important thing that I believe I have learned from a trip around our planet is that no progress whatsoever is being made on the prime problem facing the human race, that the problem is bigger than I had dreamed, and that, most tragically, it probably has no solution. I don't mean communism and I don't mean the chilling probability of atomic war; I mean something much worse: too many people. (…) Too little food, too many mouths. How will they be fed? Where will they sleep?”
Theroux stating something seriously bothering him in 2006: “I finally left Trichy, and India. What sent me away was not the poverty, though it was pathetic and there was plenty of it. It wasn't the dirt, though it sometimes seemed to me that nothing in India was clean. It wasn't the pantheon of grotesque gods, some like monkeys, some like elephants, some wearing skulls as ornaments, some in a posture of repose under the hood of a rearing cobra—terrifying or benign to the believers propitiating them with flowers. It was not the widow-burning or the child marriages or the crowds of the cringing and the limbless, the one-eyed, the stumblers, the silent ones who hardly lifted their eyes. (…) Not the heat, either, though every day in the south it was in the high 90s. Not the boasting and booming Indians and their foreign partners screwing the poor and the underpaid for profit. Not the roads, though the roads were hideous and impassable in places. Not the fear of disease or the horror of the obscenely wealthy, though the sight of the superrich in India could be more disquieting than the sight of the most wretched beggar. None of these. They can all be rationalized. What sent me away finally was something simpler, but larger and inescapable. It was the sheer mass of people, the horribly thronged cities, the colossal agglomeration of elbowing and contending Indians, the billion-plus, the sight of them, the sense of their desperation and hunger, having to compete with them for space on sidewalks, on roads, everywhere—what I'd heard on the train from Amritsar: "Too many. Too many." All of them jostling for space, which made for much of life there a monotony of frotteurism, life in India being an unending experience of nonconsensual rubbing.”
In The Happy Isles of Oceania, Paul Theroux (who also disses the New Zealanders, if I remember well), has a stint in Tahiti (Colonialism! Exploitation! Horrors!) and then arrives to Hawaii. Obvious book part (Part 4) heading: PARADISE.
40 years before that, after their New Zealand debacle, Robert and Virginia Heinlein deplane in Honolulu. Obvious chapter heading: PARADISE.
Yeah, sure, guys, absolutely…
Note to self: When a traveler ask themselves “What am I doing here?”, planes are nice to have around. Virginia Heinlein let go of her fears of flying over water just to get the hell out of a dreary Auckland and, in a trip recalled in The Last Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux decided that a flight out was just the thing to short circuit, in a dreary Luanda, an African jaunt.
So it goes.
N.B.: “No description should be entirely flattering; there should be some criticism at the very least, for contrast and to lend conviction to favorable statements. But it is very hard to find anything to criticize in Uruguay.”