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Scented

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A compelling and poignant search for identity through perfume.

Granny Seren told me I had a natural talent for perfume making, and I believed her because she seemed to know what she was talking about and she never lied. It was Seren who introduced me to the idea of a signature scent.

As a university lecturer, Si�n didn't need a signature scent to know who she was. But, prompted by her job loss following restructuring of the humanities - and the effect this has on her identity - she begins to construct a perfume of herself. Note by perfume note, referencing scent memories and recent events, she rebuilds herself, Scented.

248 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2019

11 people are currently reading
142 people want to read

About the author

Laurence Fearnley

21 books51 followers
Laurence Fearnley is an award-winning novelist. Her novel The Hut Builder won the fiction category of the 2011 NZ Post Book Awards and was shortlisted for the international 2010 Boardman Tasker Prize for mountain writing. Her book Edwin and Matilda was runner-up in the 2008 Montana New Zealand Book Awards and her second novel, Room, was shortlisted for the 2001 Montana Book Awards. In 2004 Fearnley was awarded the Artists to Antarctica Fellowship and in 2007 the Robert Burns Fellowship at the University of Otago. Laurence Fearnley lives in Dunedin with her husband and son.

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5 stars
26 (18%)
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51 (36%)
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50 (35%)
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11 (7%)
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3 (2%)
Displaying 1 - 29 of 29 reviews
Profile Image for Marcus Hobson.
730 reviews115 followers
December 26, 2019
About a year and a half ago I took a daylong writing course with Laurence Fearnley. Our theme was ‘Beyond the visual’ and we considered the impact that sight, sound, touch and smell could have on our narrative. In my notes there is plenty of detail under sight, sound and touch, but very little under smell or taste. It is all about taking you to a flashback or a backstory. Using scent as your centerpiece is therefore not without risks.

This is a journey through scent, or more accurately a journey to find a scent that represents Siân with its subtle mix of base notes, heart notes and top notes. Siân has lost her job at the university where the department of American studies has been hit by funding cuts. She finds herself at a loose end, unable to find a new job and so falling back on her hobby of making perfumes and blending scents. She goes in search of the illusive scent that most represents her own life, looking back and finding elements that remind her of people and places. The less worthwhile that she feels, as she struggles to find work, the more she needs the reassurance of her ability to find the illusive scents that make her what she is.

The need to find the scent allows us flashbacks into Siân’s past, glimpses of childhood and of university colleagues. There are notes at the end of chapters, lists of potential base notes or heart notes that could be used in a signature scent, linking experiences to smells.

At one point Siân describes delivering meals on wheels to the elderly residents of Wainoni and New Brighton: “The meals were stacked in the back of the car, kept warm under tinfoil. The plates were ceramic, not plastic, and the cutlery was stainless steel. Most often we served meals of mince and veggies, pork and veggies or fish and veggies. Always potatoes. And desert was something steamed; doughy jam, butterscotch or apple pudding. While I served the meals, my friend’s mother would go into the kitchen and collect the plates from the previous day and put on the kettle for a cup of tea. The ritual never varied from house to house.
Another ritual was peeling back the layer of foil from the plate. There was always condensation on the underside, and often a film of moisture had settled over the meat and vegetables, making them look damp and slightly grey. The smell incorporated this dampness, so rather than the individual earthiness of carrots, the sweetness of garden peas or the richness of beef gravy, there was a muddled fug or aromas. Every single meal smelt like leftovers, as if it had already been served the previous day to someone wealthier or luckier than the present diner.
As the meal was uncovered and the smell released, the recipient would lean forward and inhale. They would then raise their clouded or watery eyes and look at me and, with an expression that registered as cheeriness, thank me. Only then would their expression falter. As they looked back at their plate, you could see their mouths quiver slightly, the resigned look on their faces.
I’ll never forget that look. A look that said, This is my life now. This is all I can expect. Be grateful and get on with it.”
And there is everything that Laurence taught us, all captured in a few short paragraphs. Brilliant.
Profile Image for Kate.
737 reviews26 followers
November 25, 2019
Oh my, what a truly wonderful find. This wee book is a quiet gem. Another fabulous book purchased at the airport prior to departure on an adventure, clearly a winning formula for me.

Initially I had trouble figuring out if it was an actual memoir or fiction. I had no notion of the author, her origins or her previous work, nor did I realise she was a New Zealand author. So the memories and joy the first part evoked was a total surprise. Laurence Fearnly - my new crush.

Sian’s sense of smell is a large part of how she perceives her surroundings and a barometer of how things are traveling for her. This resonated deeply for me as smell is one of my leading senses and it was interesting to read someone else’s connection to it. Sian gets restructured out of the life she has built as a lecturer at Auckland University and finds herself lost and grieving for a past and a future. Her love of perfume and scent is what provides her with something to hold onto in a more defining way. She begins to create scent for those she loves as she had done previously in her early twenties. This leads her slowly to a signature scent that sums up her identity providing healing and a way forward. I found this to be incredibly evocative and a peaceful way through Sian’s existential crisis. Also refreshingly original.

There are some achingly beautiful phrases and loops that landed for me in a way that felt like Laurence was reading my most inner private thoughts. I found myself savoring every last word. What was even more surprising was two of the perfumes that featured a lot for me as I was learning the subtleties of fragrance and it's art were two that are discussed in detail, they are Nahema and Mitsouko. I have found myself conjuring them and being swept back to a time when they were a part of me......While I understand Sian is fiction seldom has a protagonist been so real to me. I will cherish this story and book as it has seeped into my being, just as Nahema did.
Profile Image for Lisa.
3,796 reviews492 followers
July 14, 2024
Some years ago, I was in the CBD, waiting to cross at the lights, when a complete stranger smiled and asked me about the perfume I was wearing.  It reminded her of her mother, who had always worn it, she said.  That is what is meant by a signature scent.

At the time, I didn't have a signature scent.  I never bought perfume for myself, but for years my mother had kept me supplied with French perfume with gift sets at Christmas and on my birthday, and their small sizes were perfect to keep in a handbag for top-ups during the day.  Mostly I never remembered from one day to the next which one I was wearing, but I remembered the Estée Lauder one because I liked it so much.  It was called Beautiful and it suited me. And some years after that, when I was visiting my father in aged care every day, I always wore that scent because I had learned that even when memory goes altogether, a person will know who you are by your familiar scent.  It's a way of holding on and not letting go.  For me, that perfume still represents hope.

In Laurence Fearnley's novel Scented, a middle-aged academic called Siân has lost her way.  A single-minded career woman, she has lost her job and her sense of identity when the university was restructured and her entire department was abolished.  The story begins during that dreadful period of stress when the news has leached out but the administration is not being transparent about its intentions.  Not knowing yet that American Studies is to close down altogether, Siân is hopeful that her job will survive because she has made herself so very useful to other academics in the department. Taking on their responsibilities as well as her own.  Enabling them to get grants and professorships and impressive CVs.  Helping out colleagues under stress as one might do in work that's collaborative and secure. But perhaps not so strategic in a competitive environment when survival skills are needed.

Then Siân is hopeful of being able to transfer to a new department.  After all, her senior colleague Jerome seems to be able to reinvent himself.  Not because he is a man.  But because he is a certain type.  We had those applying for positions at my work too, where the applicants were nearly always women because I worked in a feminised profession  (I became quite skilled in interviews at ferreting out the CVs claiming expertise in work they hadn't done.  'Can you tell us more about your own contribution to this committee?' I would ask, with my pen poised mid-air to write down the answer that always waffled on vaguely about not taking credit for team work.)

At home in her apartment, Siân is in the doldrums.  Her early days are filled with writing a new CV, and sending off job applications.  Most receive no reply or a pseudo-rueful reply.  There are, after all, not so many universities in New Zealand. (Though more than you'd think for a population of about 5 million.) She casts her net a bit wider and lowers her expectations because the mortgage on that much-loved apartment is pressing.  She gets a couple of job interviews outside academia but she messes up.  It's not looking good.

It dawns on the reader that Siân is not an entirely reliable narrator. 

To read the rest of my review please visit https://anzlitlovers.com/2024/05/31/s...
Profile Image for Gia Williams.
61 reviews3 followers
April 4, 2020
I question to you, does smell ignite memories for you? If your country had a smell/perfume, what would it smell like? What smells would build your own personal signature scent?
This book rates three stars for me as it did cause me to walk away from it to many times. However the curious side of me was wanting to know how Sian was going to get through her journey.
Yes, it did surprise me. Yes, it sparked conversations around me. Absolutely made me think of things from a different line of thought. Or a different sense of perception as the case may be.
The lack of my own understanding of how perfumes are made and the stories behind them made me explore further. I looked up the process of production, and the meanings behind many fragrances. I was amazed to read the backstories of some major perfumes. Memories of the makers, dinners in garden settings. A smell left lingering after a loved one has left a room. The smell of a corpse days old in the sun. The smell of tree bark.
On a gentle walk with my family i asked them both, what smell reminds you of home. My son said the smell of food cooking on a winters night. My husband replied with the sweet smell of the shower gel after i step out of the shower. For myself, the smell of a book!
This book will take you on a little adventure through the New Zealand lifestyle. Touching on points of our heritage, culture and our love for feeling like we are home. United.
I felt a huge connection with Sian when she spoke about plants native to New Zealand. Living within fifty feet of native bush, there were times when i got up to go for a walk and ran my hands along a leaf, or the bark of a rata tree. I took in the smell left on my hands. It made me appreciate the writings of this story. I felt a connection on a kiwi level. I also understand her need to find her signature scent.
What would your signature scent be?
Some kiwis would say, sheep shit and freshly cut grass (farmers!!!) City folk would say, fresh coffee grinds and leather.
When i travel to America i find i smell scents very rarely smelt in New Zealand. However, recently on a trip to the east coast of the north island i was walking past a donut truck, my husband, son and i stopped, as we all stood there and sniffed. All at the same time we said, Disneyland!!! That feeling of a wonderful holiday and adventures came flooding back. It lingered with us for the duration of the day.
This book is designed to make you think out of the box. If you have or have not been in New Zealand or currently live here, ask yourself one question. What scent makes us feel like you are home?
Laurence Fearnley, you made memories come to the forefront of my mind. Your book gave me memories of my deceased mother whom i miss dearly, still to this day too afraid to sample her signature perfume she wore for years, J'adore Eau de Perfume, for fear of the grief and loss flooding back to me. The smell of my grandfathers wool jersey.
This book will touch notes in your subconscious you forgot you had. A delicate book with gentle reminders of what makes us really us.
I also like the way the book is layered, much like a perfume. The base notes, heart notes and top notes.
A recommended book for the open minded.
Will absolutely be reading another of Laurence Fearnley's publications.
280 reviews
January 1, 2020
I liked that this story was rooted in reality and had unashamed and unexplained NZ references and background. It is also a fairly easy read as long as you can take the explanations about the various notes of scents and why they are chosen to match certain people and needs.
The main character's personal growth was satisfying and the whole story felt real. [Especially the university/tertiary politics - and for a lot of people at Ak Uni and other institutions probably too real. ]
I learnt quite a lot and even feel inspired to set up my own orchard of NZ trees and plants that could be used for their scent or medicinal purpose. I already have kawakawa.

Incidentally the corpseflower or stinky flower in Auckand Domain's Winter Gardens was mentioned and it is just about to flower again in the next few days [first few days of Jan 2020]. I'm not sure I wil rush to join the queue but Fearnley's character didnt find the odour too offensive.
https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/ar...
Profile Image for Angelique Simonsen.
1,447 reviews31 followers
June 3, 2020
A great nz author whose books I have enjoyed before but this one just seemed to go nowhere. The perfume bits were interesting though and they held my interest for a lot longer than the storyline
Profile Image for Felicity Price.
Author 12 books8 followers
April 13, 2020
Scented is a catchy title that is filled with sensual promise for a book centred on perfume. Its three-part structure is cleverly pertinent to the subject of scent: base notes, heart notes and top notes. It’s written by a well-known, prize-winning New Zealand author. And it lures readers with a vibrant, colourful, engaging cover. But one should never judge a book by its cover, right? Sadly, this is the case. It’s neither vibrant nor engaging.
Author Laurence Fearnley has clearly carried out mountains of research into the subject of scent but so much of it is packed into these pages that it simply overwhelms the narrative and the characters, in much the same way a strong aftershave overpowers everyone within radius. I’ll be slayed for daring to criticise one of New Zealand’s literary icons, winner of literary prizes and writing fellowships, with a PhD in Creative Writing, Fearnley is revered in literary circles. But her passion for perfume has eclipsed any remaining fiction.
The analysis of each perfume – of a memorable landscape, a dearly beloved friend or family member, of an outside long-drop even – interrupts the flow of the narrative and makes us wait during a detailed description of the ‘notes’ before we rejoin Siân on her journey to recapture her identity and find the recipe for “the grand Māori perfume”. The analyses and comparisons of smells – would oakmoss go with iris, would benzoin make the right heart-note for Siân’s own signature perfume – begin as section end-notes (ha!) but creep in more and more frequently, then permeate the whole novel, leaving no escape from the constant bombardment of olfactory cues that would fit better in a work of non-fiction.
Yet there is an underlying story that does manage to burst through the perfume cloud, told in the first person by Siân, an American Studies lecturer. Made redundant, along with other members of the Arts faculty, she struggles to get another job. There is more than a whiff of reality in the university scenes, emphasised by Fearnley’s dedication of the novel to her “former lecturers in the American studies, art history, English and history departments at Canterbury University”. With each job rejection and dwindling funds, Siân becomes desperate to regain the respect she once held, desperate to keep her beloved home. Her self-esteem disappears as she contemplates applying for lowly admin jobs back at the university. Her path back to happiness lies in the discovery of her true self, which is integral to achieving another goal – the discovery of her own signature scent.
But by then we’ve waded through so many descriptions of different smells and their sources, any discovery comes as something of an anti-climax, well submerged beneath the top notes and oakmoss.
Profile Image for Diana Coleman.
102 reviews
November 4, 2019
The first book I have read by this author and it was interesting reading. A rather serious and sad story about a middle aged woman who’s life gradually unravels as she loses her job, her direction and purpose, her one true friend and finally her home.
The only constant thing in her life, only thing she can keep is perfume, her sense of small and skill in blending scents. She ends up living in a caravan, doing seasonal fruit picking and selling her perfumes at the local market. A colleague offers her a job working back at the university, for him doing his donkey work whilst he basks in the glory of his research project, she’s tempted and although the story doesn’t actually say so, I think she opts to keep her new freedom also I wasn’t convinced she was happy even then.
One thing the novel did do for me is alert me to the fact I don’t make time to stop and smell the world often enough and it’s time I did.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Profile Image for Judy.
74 reviews18 followers
January 5, 2020
Very well written, easy to read. I am one that loves the smell of the country side and the farm where I live, flowers in the garden, the bush etc and my favourite smell is when I step out of a plane in the tropics, the tropical scents are superb esp Frangipani. The story of the book did not grip me nearly enough, almost gave up in the middle. The end was the best part. It proved there is more to life than city living. It is worth a read though for her writing and a good discussion within your book group!
Profile Image for Jennifer (JC-S).
3,550 reviews290 followers
October 29, 2024
‘When I was employed, I didn’t need a signature scent to know who I was.’

I was intrigued by this novel after reading a review by my Chief Reading Enabler, Lisa. Her review can be found here: https://anzlitlovers.com/2024/05/31/s...

Unfortunately, my library didn’t have a copy of this book, but Lisa kindly sent me hers.

Back to the novel, to Siân’s journey. As a child, her grandmother Seren told Siân that she had a natural talent for perfume making. And the descriptions early in the book underline this. But Siân’s sense of self derived more from her role as a university lecturer in New Zealand, until she lost her job. What follows is largely alien to me: the notion that self can be constructed by scent and yet I do have memories of smell associated with place and event but rarely with people. Why do I find it alien? In part because I am hyposmic, and my sense of smell is the sense I use least. Reading this novel gave me a window into a different world, one in which a multitude of scents can be differentiated and appreciated. And I remember, too, the scents I can smell (and love): Chanel No 5, lavender, various roses and eucalyptus.

Siân composes a new CV and sends out many job applications. Siân’s world changes as the possibility of employment seems to disappear. From hoping that she will be retained because she is useful, to seeking employment selling perfume, Siân’s hopes are dashed. She is becoming desperate.

I was starting to lose interest in Siân at this stage. Yes, I felt sorry for her, but I needed her to take control. And she did: by returning to her interest in scent. Siân decides to make herself a signature scent. While this takes Siân back to some uncomfortable memories, she decides to explore scents associated with New Zealand rather than the European plants she was more familiar with as a child.

Fully engaged once more, I wondered about scents and their associations, their chemistry and alchemy. Yes, this novel may be about Siân’s journey, but it also took me on a journey of my own and left me wondering about some of the associations between we make individually using our sense of smell. And, just for a moment, I could appreciate my husband’s frustration when he tries to describe a scent which is beyond my limited olfactory sense.

Thank you, Lisa. I have added Ms Fearnley to my reading list.

Jennifer Cameron-Smith

Profile Image for Just Heather.
204 reviews4 followers
January 29, 2024
I really enjoyed Scented by Laurence Fearnley! I was drawn to the title, the cover, and the book itself wove it's way into my life in a way that will stay with me for a while.

It feels like a NZ book; not just because it's set in NZ, but more-so that a New Zealander would be able to pick up on the references & vibe of the book, and possibly relate to it a little easier...?

I liked how Siân was flawed, passionate about scents, and she was awkward and somewhat relateable. I think this book though is an acquired taste, it feels like a niche story that would appeal to a niche audience.

I have two issues: one about the gorse essence... she said something along the lines of 'if you could buy it, let alone get it shipped to NZ...' But I immediately thought why not collect it yourself? She was busy crushing leaves of other plants to release their scents, why not find a way to distill the essence of gorse? We've got plenty of it around NZ. Though ....she didn't really seem to be into the chemistry of extracting the essences.

The second was that she didn't mention putting anything into the Little Free library that she took books from. Might seem pedantic, but it would have been interesting to see what she would have given. Though, she does acknowledge she didn't put the effort into her friendships. So perhaps she's more of a taker than a giver in some things (she does like to create scents for others but isn't so good at nurturing relationships).

I did love how Archer was quietly there for her the whole time and brought the scent Siân made for him on their trip even though he couldn't smell it.
And her reconnecting with Thora was lovely.

It felt a bit heavy in the sense that I ended up feeling a bit emotionally exhausted. But I liked how the scent notes were summarised at the end of sections and what experiences they related to. And how the three parts resembled the characteristics described of the base, mid & top notes themselves, with the Top Notes section ending seemingly abruptly.

As I said, I'll be thinking about this book for a while, and I'm very happy about that! It's inspired me to rekindle my passion for creating blends of essential oils, it's been too long.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Profile Image for Emma McCleary.
173 reviews
November 10, 2019
Laurence Fearnley really is totally proficient at description and in this novel managed to evoke scents throughout the story. Her writing is tight and detailed while also being light and moving - the story keeps pace and continues to be interesting as it develops.

A thoroughly enjoyable read for me as I often have scent memories and enjoy smelling - mainly musty, dirty things and printers inks. I read the last part of the book by an open window beside the bush as it rained and couldn't think of a more perfect setting.
Profile Image for Gavan.
706 reviews21 followers
June 18, 2021
A wonderful story beautifully told. A contemplative book about someone contemplating their life. I love the concept of creating a personalised scent that encompasses a life. And sensitively addresses what it means to belong & indigenous issues.
Profile Image for Robyn.
228 reviews2 followers
March 31, 2020
I’m not sure what to make if the book. I love scents and these were written about beautifully but the main character Sian was so unappealing it was hard for me to enjoy her as a character. No story layers, not much of a story at all. Happy the author is a Kiwi and includes lots of NZ places and idioms
Profile Image for Rochelle.
257 reviews3 followers
June 26, 2020
The writing was beautiful but the ending was not my cup of tea at all!! Was not quite into the story either, even though the blurb sounded wonderful
Profile Image for Kate.
54 reviews
November 6, 2020
Another beautiful book by Laurence Fearnley. I loved it.
Profile Image for Gemma Fairbrother.
51 reviews
October 27, 2021
This is Laurence Fearnley's latest in a long line of novels, many of which have won awards. So I was expecting something quite good from her, and this feels very real.
Profile Image for Emma.
168 reviews
May 12, 2023
I enjoyed the final wrap up of the story at the end but found the book rather tedious to get to that stage. Lovely descriptive writing though.
Profile Image for Rowena.
9 reviews
April 22, 2024
Felt strangely shallow and a touch disjointed, for a book about the depths of what it means to understand oneself and feel 'whole'
Profile Image for Merryn.
240 reviews
December 1, 2024
This was very disappointing, from an author whose work I usually love. The story took forever to develop and the characters were one-dimensional.
167 reviews
March 21, 2020
I enjoyed reading this book was set in NZ. However, I found the main character frustrating.
463 reviews
March 13, 2020
Set in NZ in Auckland an area I know well made this book more interesting. I enjoyed thinking about different scents
32 reviews
March 4, 2020
So beautifully written with many popular culture references that resonated with me.
I will be recommending to others
Profile Image for Tasman District Libraries.
78 reviews1 follower
Read
April 20, 2020
American Studies lecturer Siân has lost her job in a restructure at her university. She has lost her long established academic career, her colleagues and only friends, and if she doesn’t find employment soon, she’ll lose her home. Of all her losses though, her greatest loss is her loss of identity and self-worth.

While struggling to find a job, and having always had a passion for perfume, Siân embarks on a mission to rebuild her sense of identity by creating a signature scent for herself using the aromas and odours from her childhood memories, places, people and life events.

This is a wonderfully descriptive and evocative novel. It plays on the link between memories and scent with the New Zealand reader, as much as it does with the main character. The pace is slow moving, but the story is well written and realistic. Although the novel deals with the subjects of loss and grief, and does not give us a sugar coated ending, it is also ultimately comforting.
Profile Image for SaraSian.
3 reviews1 follower
October 2, 2019
As a regular reader of Fearnley’s contributions to the Now Smell This online perfume community, I had this book on pre-order. I received it today and devoured it in one go. I’ve read many perfume memoirs but this is different. It appeals to my intellectual side as well as the sensual perfume loving side. I loved the exploration of a change in life, the meaning of friendships and so many different scents. I was swept up and I really enjoyed it. I would also love to smell the final creation!
Profile Image for Jenny.
427 reviews19 followers
November 18, 2019
I know this is set at an Auckland Uni but Ice Chancellor, did you just perfectly describe the hatchet face vice chancellor from Otago Uni or what-lol. You have described how demoralising restructuring is to those at the coalface very well.
Need to buy a perfume now.
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