It's very hard to decide what rating to give this book. There were a lot of pros, enough that I'm definitely keeping the book so that I can go back and reference my dozen or so sticky tabs marking especially interesting locations, but there were also so many cons that I'd never want to read the book cover-to-cover again. I suppose I'll just list the pros and cons, then decide on my stars after that.
Pros
• Gorgeous, modern, exciting visual design. Beautiful colors, fonts, and photographs. Everything well laid out and easy to read. Really shows off the author's main profession as an art director.
• Writing at times transported me to the places it was describing, so that I felt like I just got back from vacation when I set the book down.
• Otaku locations, such as the manga museum in Akita, were treated with respect and true affection, rather than the half-mocking or disinterested tone I often see from other writers. This was a huge plus for me.
• Focus on art-related locations seemed a little higher than I'd expect from a typical travel book, which is great for me as a professional writer-illustrator!
• Practical knowledge section at the end of the book was extremely useful and must-read content for any foreigner visiting Japan. I'll definitely be rereading it before I head there next year.
• Generally, an impression of the author as a true Japanophile comes through, which lends the text a sense of heartfelt sincerity and trustworthiness.
Cons
• Silly typos peppering the text, really taking away from the otherwise impeccable design of the book, as if the visuals mattered more than the content.
• Condescending "Oh, Japan"s throughout the book come across as backhanded compliments at best, microaggressions at worst.
• Repetitive language, ranging from airheaded (e.g. using the same adjective to describe something more than once in the same sentence) to annoying (the author's use of "divine" felt fresh and original at first, but it became so overused that I was rolling my eyes by the end) to problematic (constantly reassuring readers to "fear not" because English is available only encourages behavior that creates a bad image of English-speaking foreign visitors worldwide).
• Author is perhaps purposefully aiming for a very specific audience, but if that explains the reason I periodically felt I was being spoken to like a shut-in with no common sense (the best/worst example was the repeated warnings in the Sapporo chapter to wear proper footwear, even if its not fashionable, when walking in snow), I don't find it amusing nor does it help the book's general appeal.
I could easily add more specific bullet points to both the pro and con lists, but this covers the big things I wanted to mention. It still feels tough to choose between a three- and four-star rating, but based on Goodreads' own description of three stars as "liked it" and four as "really liked it" I'm going to settle with the former. I definitely liked this book, enough to give it a space on my bookshelves, but its cons are enough that "really liked" just feels too strong to describe my feelings towards it.