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Modesty: A Fashion Paradox

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Modest fashion has been gaining momentum in the mainstream global fashion industry over the past half-decade and is now a multi-billion-dollar retail sector. Its growing and now consistent appearance on high-profile fashion runways, on celebrities and in the headlines of fashion publications and news outlets, has shown that the modest fashion movement is hugely relevant to consumers. This is particularly true for millennials who are attracted to the feminist influences behind concealing your body, follow faith-based dress codes, or are attuned to social media, where more and more modest fashion bloggers are using imagery to inspire their followers. While the movement can credit European high fashion houses, like Gucci, for making conservative dresses and layering “in style” and “on trend,” and subsequent Western labels like DKNY, H&M and Mango for dabbling in the realm of modest wear, it is the newly emerging group of faith-influenced fashion brands who are driving the revolution, along with a new crop of Muslim fashion bloggers. These have helped catapult demure dressing trends globally.

This book speaks to the various personalities and companies who have helped shape the modest fashion industry into such a significant retail sector, while also exploring the controversies that lie at the heart of the movement, such as one pressing question: even if it covers the skin but is flamboyant, modeled with the purpose of attracting attention, and publicly promoted on social media, can fashion truly be modest?

288 pages, Paperback

First published March 1, 2020

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About the author

Hafsa Lodi

2 books45 followers
Hafsa Lodi is an American-Muslim journalist who has been covering fashion and culture in the Middle East for more than a decade. She has a BA in journalism from Ryerson University (Toronto) and an MA in Islamic law from SOAS, University of London. She writes frequently about the intersection of faith, fashion and feminism, and her work has appeared in The Independent, Refinery29, Business Insider, Teen Vogue, Vogue Arabia, Stylist, Glamour, The National, Luxury, Mojeh, Grazia Middle East, GQ Middle East, gal-dem and more.

Hafsa’s debut non-fiction book Modesty: A Fashion Paradox, commissioned and published by Neem Tree Press, launched at the 2020 Emirates Literature Festival. It explores the causes, controversies and key players of the global modest fashion movement from cultural, religious, political and feminist lenses. Harper’s Bazaar US called it “a well-researched and tender portrait of the politics and people behind a movement.”

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 32 reviews
Profile Image for Sofia.
Author 5 books266 followers
April 24, 2021
If you ask me about modest fashion, I could probably name about 4 bloggers, but the world of modest fashion bloggers, and hijabi bloggers in particular is vast and it’s influence more far reaching than its given credit for.

Hijabi fashion bloggers are often brushed off as vacuous, self-serving and paradoxical. Hafsa Lodi’s Modesty, A Fashion Paradox rugby tackles this stereotyping of these bloggers and gets to the very heart of just how influential these women are, how varied and even contradictory their positions are on notions of modesty and how they reconcile their work with their faith. At times the book reads like a catalogue of bloggers and their bios, which is probably interesting for readers who enjoy following fashion bloggers or for whom its an entirely new world with which they would like to familiarise themselves. But for me the real standout chapters were the ones tackling the questions of why covering up has ascended in beauty trends as well as in the form of personal faith commitments, and the question as to whether modest fashion is an oxymoron, and whether the two are in fact mutually exclusive.

As a Muslim woman the topic of women’s dress is one I avoid. I don’t share my opinions on public forums because it’s become such a contentious point and a discussion that is seldom engaged in with genuine curiosity or desire to understand. But Lodi provides the reader with a wealth of information that is accessible and easy to comprehend, providing a range of positions, allowing the reader to form their own conclusions or to simply observe the diversity of thought around what it means to be modest and fashionable, whilst providing a thought provoking read, which for many I’m sure, will be thoroughly educative.

I was privileged to have Hafsa join me on my instagram to discuss this book on its one year anniversary. You can catch a recording of the conversation here: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CMpRtjNJ...
Profile Image for Fathima Ashab.
163 reviews24 followers
February 27, 2020
First of all, you should pick this up if you have the contradictory thoughts between modesty and fashion. They need not be two different things and you will know why if you read this book. Now let me tell you why I liked this book. I don't know if everyone as a Muslim has felt left out in a group of people who look down at hijab and covering the body fully in general. I have been there and trust me it hurts when you want to look fashionable but at the same time, you don't have a proper dress in the clothing industry to play it cool. But it's not the same anymore like how it was years ago. Things have changed. Okay, to be honest, yes, these people who represent 'Modesty in fashion industry' still gets backlashes from people who are safe at their Muslim community and never experienced anything out of it. So much power to those women who dared to bring modesty into the industry that feeds from exposing women's bodies. I loved reading about their experiences. And thanks to them, we have more modest collection of dresses to choose from. PS. This 'Modest fashion' doesn't just focus on Muslims but others like Catholics, Jews and everyone who is comfortable with not showing the body than showing it. This book is also for the understanding of people who think WEARING HIJAB IS OPPRESSIVE. Please wake up! We have passed that stage long back. The world will be a better place if only we acknowledged the diversity and respected each other's culture.

Rating: 4.5 🌟
Profile Image for Jeff.
1,739 reviews163 followers
April 29, 2020
Intriguing Look At Muslim Fashion and the Rise of Generation M Through That Lens. I grew up in a very conservative Christian region. The church I grew up in wasn't hyper strict on dress code (though it was still enforced that pants and closed toed shoes were required for males, which I chafed at every summer - this was outside of Atlanta, after all), but I new others that were very much in the vein that Lodi describes in brief flashes of this book where she looks at any form of Christianity at all, including the Mormon friend that she references in the introduction and conclusion.

But overall this book is hyper focused on modest fashion *as seen through the lens of Muslim females, particularly Millenial Muslim females*. Lodi does a seemingly good job of showing the last century or so of history of how we got to this moment in female Muslim fashion, from early efforts to liberalize and get away from the traditional coverings to the movements to go back under the abayas and burqas as a protest of such liberalization. She does a decent job of examining the various social arguments both for and against both covering and even making the covers more fashionable.

But what really sets the book apart is just how tied into Instagram in particular it is. Indeed, seemingly every single time Lodi first mentions a person, she also mentions their Instagram handle if they have one - and most everyone she mentions has one.

Arguably the most glaring weakness of the book - and it isn't actually big enough that I can bring myself to ding a single star, it is more of the difference between run of the mill and transcendental - *is* the hyper focus on Muslim fashion specifically. Yes, the other Abrahamic faiths are mentioned a few times, and even no faith at all is mentioned at times, but the lens is absolutely through the one particular viewpoint. The book very much could have benefited from maybe as little as two extra chapters - one on Christian modest fashion/ rationales and another on secular, "skin care" type modest fashion/ rationales.

But ultimately a strong book from within its perspective, and seemingly very complete and as up to date as a book can be. Very much recommended.
Profile Image for Zee Monodee.
Author 45 books346 followers
July 27, 2020
Interesting book. Did feel repetitive throughout, with much of the same information referred to in different places, almost as if this could have done with better organization into chapters and planning (it did feel lumped together throughout). But what made me enjoy this a bit less is that many pages read almost like a catalog of modest brands and/or modest bloggers with their names dropped all through along with their Instagram handles (which makes you want/need to drop the book and go open Instagram to know who & what the author is talking about). This aspect was a bit heavy and took away from the actual topic - a lot of times after so much name-dropping, I had to blink and ask myself, So what is the author supposed to actually be talking about right now?
Bit too rambling and repetitive on the whole, though it is a treasure trove of modest brand names and blogger inspiration
17 reviews
July 7, 2020
This is a discussion of the modest fashion thing that happened over the past few years, mostly from the perspective of UAE people and culture. There was some mention of non-Muslim modest clothing brands and some brands outside the Emirates, but not much substantial. It was kind of repetitive, and I didn't learn a whole lot that I didn't already know, having myself been a consumer of modest fashion media and clothing during the time period the book covers. A good explanation for an outsider.
Profile Image for Fatima Mahmood.
4 reviews
June 19, 2020
Growing up in a patriarchal household, the word modesty was instilled in a certain way within me. When I first saw this book, I was captivated by the model and the attire she was adorned with on the cover page. It seemed so effortless and stylish. When my eyes caught on “Modesty” written in bright yellow, I backtracked, the definition of modesty fed to me through out my youth came screeching back and I honestly dreaded opening this book and seeing them again.

I couldn’t have been more wrong, Hafsa Lodi, did a brilliant job in talking about modest fashion which I found myself agreeing with. Her definition of modesty aligned heavily with mine. I love how she relates her own experiences as she goes along, not choosing to be a bystander but talking about how she navigated through the fashion world coupled with her own beliefs and upbringing. She sheds light beautifully on different issues and this book I would definitely recommend as a must read. Very liberating and very refreshing.
Profile Image for Yousra.
43 reviews
December 13, 2020
I’m so glad this book exists in the world. Having lived in the UAE for half her life, and a fashion journalist herself, Lodi gives us an inside look into the modern fashion industry. Not only does the book explore the origins and trajectory of this relatively new industry, Lodi also explores the many different ways in which Muslim women across the globe apply their understanding of modest-clothing and she also makes it clear that modest fashion isn’t exclusive to Islam or even to women - many people, of all genders and faith backgrounds, choose to dress modestly. Lodi explores the origins of modest dressing both in terms of history and in the Abrahamic faiths, and references a number of female scholars who have studied and written about the hijab and modest clothing their evolution throughout history, making this book a brilliant resource. It was easy to read and I particularly enjoyed the section on modest fashion blogging!
2 reviews3 followers
February 27, 2021
'Modesty: A Fashion Paradox' presents a unique insight into the evolution of the modest fashion industry over the past decade.

The book discusses the notions of modesty in different faiths and cultures and highlights that modesty is not exclusive to the muslim faith.

Modest fashion is an extremely complex topic and has their own definition. The author presents the Quranic verses relating to the modesty and beautifully explains the islamic concept of 'Haya'.

I particularly liked the fact that the author does not try to offer any personal interpretations of the quranic verses but rather presents an unbiased insight into how muslims around the world approach the concept of modesty.

The book tackles complex ideas in a very accessible tone making it a great read for anyone who wishes to learn more modest fashion, regardless of faith.
Profile Image for Jen (Remembered Reads).
131 reviews100 followers
June 7, 2020
An overview of the evolution of the modest fashion industry over the past decade with profiles of some of the big names in brands, designers, and influencers.
While the whole was a bit uneven (the chapter detailing the last hundred years of modest fashion in Turkey, Iran, Egypt, and Indonesia was simplified to a level that felt shallow), the chapter about the ongoing debate about the whether or not the idea of modest fashion is a contradiction in terms, since to be fashionable is to stand out, makes it worth the read. There's also some solid discussion about the varied interpretations of modesty across cultures and times (although again, the historical view doesn't go very deep) and how that plays out in the mainstream fashion sphere (and for influencers, on social media).

The challenge with a book like this is that it can feel like advertising, and the chapters on both businesses and influencers in here were a little too close to that line for me (but full disclosure: maybe that's just because I'm trying to cut back on my own shopping!). Regardless, for anyone who is unfamiliar with this subsection of fashion, I think that will give them some names to explore (and I can see this being a decent gift for a teenager who is experimenting with modest fashion themselves).

The version I read was an eARC from NetGalley.
Profile Image for Humaira.
309 reviews69 followers
March 11, 2023
Incredibly well written and researched this book is not just about the outwards nature of modesty, it covers the rise of modesty, the role of consumerism and bloggers as well as the question about male modesty and differing standards for women who cover.

I did find it slow and repetitive in places, but I think this is a worthwhile book to read for those interested in the topic.
Profile Image for Sophia.
164 reviews1 follower
March 31, 2024
On the whole I enjoyed this, it was repetitive at times but I found it engaging nonetheless. Especially liked the chapter that focused on the paradox between modesty and fashion - can fashion ever be modest, is it about self expression and does that not draw attention - thus defeating the purpose?
Profile Image for Ilana.
1,076 reviews
May 24, 2020
Modest fashion is such a debatable topic to talk about, no matter the religion and the geographical area considered.

Indeed, it is originaly force upon women by men, and its rules are set by men - in their capacity of fathers, husbands and religious leaders - but women themselves may assume a religious choice and direct their fashion options based on their faith requirements. Within the limits set by society and politics - especially in those countries where institutions impose on women their choices - style and spirituality can create specific needs and requests, especialy among the educated, welltravelled middle class women.

Modesty. A Fashion Paradox by Hafsa Lodi considers what does fashion mean for a new generation of Muslim women from all the possible angles and points of view.

It might be that those women living in the Middle East and able to express themselves through fashion are the luckiest ones. They already made a religious choice, and the hijab was not imposed on themselves as a political tool of pressure. They do not need to risk their freedom for their choice of clothes. They have more than enough financial resources, eventually a family background that confers them a certain status, and they want to spend the money by purchasing goods that do resonate with their religious choices while looking fresh from the Western catwalks. Some do own (online) fashion stores aiming at high-end customers, like one of my favorite outlets featured in the book, Bouguessa. In the end, the end-customers might be not necessarily religious, but having their own style, aimed at revealing less, among others. Everything is a matter of options, as long as women are offered the choices for expressing themselves.

The discussion slightly shifts when it comes to Muslim identity - and observant religious identity in general - in the Western societies as such. Hijab and head covering in general are considered an intrusion which conflicts with the values of open societies and in subsidiary, it might happen to be used as a prozelytism/ideological tool by religious establishment keen to set its borders within the democratic society.

However, the ambiguity and multiplicity of meanings of modesty does not diminish the demand for modest clothing. Hafsa Lodi is covering not only the Muslim projects in this respect, but relies on similar trends within other communities of faith, including some of my favorite modest Jewish fashion creators, such as Frock NY, RaJu, Mimu Maxi and Batsheva, among others. Those companies count among their faithful customers many Muslim women happy to have found the clothing that suit their style. At the same time, fashion brands - from H&M to Christian Dior - started in the last years to include modest fashion - including hijabs - as part of their collections.

´Most Muslim modest wear labels based in the West are founded by women who have struggled to find stylish attire that fits with tnheir personal dress codes, and to designing prices for themselves instead, only to realize that there was huge demand from their peers´. Hafsa Lodi adds a lot of examples and features many companies and women entrepreneurs involved in the modest fashion industry based in UAE or Turkey, some of them with a high rate of glamorous success.

Modesty is a book that helps understanding various trends and fashion choices, including as a way of self-expression. It explains many details and add a lot of depth into concepts that are usually featured in a hurry and which do have a heavy emotional weight. It is a reality that there are women for whom faith is a huge part of their lifestyle, including as a self-assumed choice. Understanding the trends and having an overview over the various options is a step towards a better understanding of the phenomenon, which most probably is here to stay for a very long time. It also helps to understand and respect those options of the women who are expressing themselves differently through clothes and everyday lifestyle.


Disclaimer: Book offered by the publisher in exchange for an honest review
Profile Image for Bookworm.
2,309 reviews96 followers
July 19, 2020
I don't know much about fashion but have been vaguely aware of how more "modest" wear has become more mainstream and how certain groups such as Muslim women who may choose to cover their hair, etc. have been pushing this further into the mainstream. Lodi describes things from fashion and clothing wear in different countries to how different designers, influencers, etc. are changing this. She also talks about whether "fashion" might be a paradox with Islam, and more.

This wasn't for me. I came to realize as I was reading this that I have zero interest in fashion, didn't know any of the people she named (other than the "large" brands in the fashion world), wasn't interested in their Instagram accounts, etc. It's definitely for select groups of people who would have a specific interest in this topic but as an outsider (I wear clothes to the point they have holes in them), this was rather baffling.

That is not to say there isn't interesting information or things to learn here. I didn't know what it was like for different countries and how some have become more modest while others are more lax (which tells you that Muslims are not a monolith and neither are the countries where they live and so forth).

It was also interesting about the use of fashion as a means of expression (also something I knew but didn't know how Muslims do) so there was much to learn there, too.

I think if you're Muslim, into fashion, follow any of the people she names in her book, etc. this could be a book for you. For someone who was casually interested in the topic (I'd probably read longform articles about it in the newspaper or magazine), this might not be for you. A library borrow was best for me but for the right person it could be an excellent purchase.
Profile Image for kaylasbookishlife.
425 reviews25 followers
June 3, 2020
This book was an amazing read! It was the perfect balance of social and political issues without being preachy. If you are interested in fashion I think this book would be so interesting for you. If you identify as a modest dresser (whatever that may be to you) this book really opened up my eyes to the different issues and changes the fashion industry and its consumers have dealt with. My personal favourite chapters were the more political ones, coming from an academic political background I found it fascinating.

I enjoyed the interviews with women from different backgrounds and faiths discussing what modesty means to them and the reassurance that modesty is personal. I felt like the author did a great job highlighting different actors in the industry (designers, influencers). It explores the controversies within the fashion world and highlights brands who are seeking to change some of the issues (sustainability, environmental, human rights).

I would recommend this book to anyone interested in fashion and the role it plays in our lives and society.
11 reviews
June 5, 2021
This was a fascinating read. Even the phrase 'modest' coupled with fashion seems such an oxymoron. This book examines exactly this issue, and whether modest fashion really warrants a separate retail category, or, in the end, is it all just fashion, albeit with skin covered. The book discusses notions of modesty in different faiths, looks at the history of covering in different countries like Iran, Turkey and of course recently France, where how women dress has been politicized by governments enforcing a prescribed dress code for women, which in the case of Iran and Turkey, has flipped flopped depending on who was in power. It also tracks the journey of how we came to a place where hijab wearing models can grace runways and magazine covers in the west, something unthinkable ten years ago. And although there are Jewish and Christian modest fashion labels, as well as secular inclusive labels, the driving economic force behind this movement initially was the affluent, confident muslim millennials - Generation M. Really enjoyed the book.
1 review
March 27, 2020
I read this book while traveling (borrowed it from my wife) and found it extremely eye-opening. I didn’t realise the extent to which Muslims are now influencing global retail, and how headscarves, previously criticized and ridiculed by much of the Western world, are now even being shown at big fashion weeks around the world.
I happened to be holidaying in Istanbul while reading the book, and was particularly interested to learn about Turkey’s history with Muslim women’s dress codes, and the big role that the country now plays (with leading e-commerce platforms like Modanisa) in the international modest fashion industry.
It was particularly interesting to learn that the founder of Modanisa is a man! And although people assume modest fashion is a topic totally for women, I enjoyed reading the section on male modesty too.
The book definitely makes you re-think how you view modesty and fashion, and challenges how Muslim women are often portrayed in the media.
1 review
October 16, 2020
The author does a brilliant job of looking at modesty in fashion through different lenses - political, religious, cultural and commerce. While also exploring the effect social platforms have had on bringing the modest fashion movement to the mainstream.

The additions of social handles of women and brands mentioned in the book allow the reader to further discover and engage brands.

Definitely recommend!!
945 reviews4 followers
April 4, 2020
A very interesting book about the different cultures and how they dress. It tells you about how the high streets and fashion labels have taken to putting themselves out there in the shops for the different cultures and how it has been perceived by the general public.

Thank you NetGalley for my complimentary copy in return for my honest review.
21 reviews3 followers
April 7, 2021
Refreshing book on a topic that tends to generate deafening arguments rather than understanding discussions. You don't need to be a Muslim to enjoy reading this book and learning a thing or two. The basic message of this book that should be embraced by all is that it is the woman's right to choose what she wants to reveal or conceal, without the judgment of others.
1 review1 follower
March 20, 2020
Such a good read, a balanced & insightful approach of a multi-faceted topic- Modest fashion. Can't wait to read more books by the author Hafsa Lodi!
1 review
May 10, 2020
Superbly written book that offers a unique insight into the world of modest fashion. A credit to the Muslim, fashion and literary community.
Profile Image for Zuzana Trtolová.
12 reviews
April 15, 2023
I would give 2,5 if possible. The main problem I see with this book is its editing, which is practically nonexistent. As a person from outside but nevertheless fascinated by this very specific segment of fashion, I was hoping to get an extension of "Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion: New Perspectives from Europe and North America" (Emma Tarlo, Annelies Moors, 2013). The author is referencing this book several times, however it often feels like it is out of context. Overall this book lacks structure. There are several mentions of particular models, brand owners or influencers with modest fashion background and they appear without any order-either thematic or chronological. If you don't have any previous connection to the topic, there are some relevant mentions, i.e. about traditional pieces of clothing, or Islamic traditions in general. But I couldn't help but feeling lost at times and not really knowing what type information should I get from this book, apart from many instagram accounts, apparently worth following. I would say it feels more like reading some magazine articles or blog posts rather than a complex book about the topic of modest fashion.
Profile Image for Awesomedonut.
18 reviews1 follower
February 1, 2024
This is an okay book, exactly the desc for 2 stars. In my brain, 2 stars feels very low... perhaps I'm still unused to the GR rating system? But it literally says "it was ok" so hey, I'm gonna go with that.

I think the author is great! It was really interesting to hear about her experiences, but overall, I didn't really feel like I learned much, if anything, from this book. After I finished it, I kinda just went "okay, so?". Maybe it's because I already know a decent amount about the subject, but it really just felt very surface-level, shallow, and like it didn't add anything to the conversation. I was expecting a deeper dive, so to speak.

The author's prose is very much "modern internet journalist" (which makes sense given her background) and I wasn't a huge fan.

It's very Muslim-focused (again, makes sense given the author's background and the current modest fashion industry) and I would've liked seeing more forays into other cultures. But overall, this book is a very inoffensive piece of writing. Doesn't do anything new, but doesn't do anything egregious. I feel kinda scammed because I expected more tbh.
Profile Image for Yasmin.
48 reviews14 followers
March 10, 2022
Overall, I liked this book but it's definitely 100 pages too long. Some parts of the book were extremely tedious, such as the sections where the author describes all the fashion bloggers on Instagram. Chapter 5 ‘For women, by women’ was also boring to read.

For a book about fashion, I'm confused as to why there were no images of the fashion bloggers in the book or different modest clothing lines, that would've made it more interesting to actually see who/what the author is describing. I was wondering whether sustainability and Rana Plaza would come up, I wish there was more on that topic instead of pages and pages about different fashion bloggers on Instagram.

I definitely think this book could have been more concise and interesting if it had gone more in-depth on different topics such as sustainability. It did however reignite a love for fashion which my bank account does not appreciate.
1,677 reviews19 followers
June 5, 2021
A clothes horse who has no fashion sense of her own has to chase every new fashion trend that comes along for fifteen minutes, and is already behind because the next one is already happening. She shares how the niche' market of modest clothing is being jumped upon by big fashion in attempt to capture some market share. Complains that non-believers are wearing clothing of faith (RELIGION!). Different people have their own life journey, models who model don't want to be a role model. Surreal. Color pix.
Profile Image for Ruth.
109 reviews
January 6, 2024
Not sure why I picked this up but I am glad I did as it was actually pretty good. Very detailed look at Muslim modest fashion and influencers, a topic I knew next to nothing about before reading the book (there are a few cursory glances at Christian and Jewish modest dressing but the bulk of the book is about Muslim women).

I knocked a star off for it being slightly dated, this came out juuuust pre-pandemic.
Profile Image for Danielle.
72 reviews3 followers
May 30, 2023
3.5 stars rounded up. The first half of the book was pretty slow and focused more heavily in social media presence than other parts of fashion and history, and there were bites of historical information on the interplay of fashion, modesty, and faith/personal character, but not enough to satisfy. The last quarter of the book was much more interesting.
608 reviews5 followers
October 26, 2022
The contents of this book was very worthwhile. Unfortunately the writer kept repeating herself. In addition to this it lacked sufficient pictures to effectively illustrate the point. For that I recommend “Contemporary Muslim Fashion” edited by Jill D’Alessandro and Reina Lewis.
1 review
March 20, 2020
Very informative and insightful! A must read for anyone connected to or interested in the fashion industry, be they producer or consumer.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 32 reviews

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