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The Last Collection

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With World War II looming over Paris, an American woman becomes entangled in the intense rivalry between iconic fashion designers Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli in this "fascinating" (Hazel Gaynor) novel from the acclaimed author of The Beautiful American.

Paris, 1938. Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli are fighting for recognition as the most successful fashion designer in France, and their rivalry is already legendary. They oppose each other at every turn, in both their politics and their designs: Chanel's are classic, elegant, and practical; Schiaparelli's are bold, experimental, and surreal.

When Lily Sutter, a recently widowed young American teacher, visits her brother, Charlie, in Paris, he wants to buy her a couture dress--a Chanel. Lily, however, prefers a Schiaparelli. Charlie's socially prominent girlfriend soon begins wearing Schiaparelli's designs, too, and much of Paris follows in her footsteps.

Schiaparelli offers budding artist Lily a job at her store, and Lily finds herself increasingly involved in the designers' personal war. Their fierce competition reaches new and dangerous heights as the Nazis and World War II bear down on Paris.

368 pages, Paperback

First published June 25, 2019

319 people are currently reading
10580 people want to read

About the author

Jeanne Mackin

11 books579 followers
Jeanne Mackin is the author of The Beautiful American and A Lady of Good Family. In addition to several other novels as well as short fiction and creative nonfiction, she is the author of the Cornell Book of Herbs and Edible Flowers and co-editor of The Norton Book of Love. She lives with her husband in upstate New York.

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 510 reviews
Profile Image for Miranda Reads.
1,744 reviews165k followers
December 9, 2020
4.5 stars
description

"I couldn't..." he whispered, bending close to my ear.

"I know."

"I wanted..."

"I know that, too."
Few rivalries were as brilliant, vibrant and long-standing as the one between Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.

Lily Sutter, a recently widowed American woman, has managed to wander between the two feuding females thanks to her hapless brother.

Charlie, Lily's brother, sents her a desperate, cryptic note and so she travels to Paris in 1938.
"Oh Charlie. What have you gotten yourself into?"
"Love," he said.
He offers to buy her a Chanel dress but Lily insists on visiting Schiaparelli, dragging along Ania - Charlie's girlfriend and the IT girl of the times.
Clothes aren't just clothes. They are moods, desires, quality of our souls and our dreams made visible
Ania falls in love with Schiaparelli's wild, whimiscial style - such a far cry from Chanel's classic elegance - and buys more dresses than Lily can comprehend, and the rest of Paris follows suit.
Coco's collection was a success.
But the Schiaparelli collection was a grand success.
Schiaparelli, delighted, offers Lily an artist position at her store and things are looking up.

Schiaparelli might - for once - become Paris's top fashion designer.
"It is a night of victory. Even so, I have a bad feeling. No, keep smiling. Maybe it is nothing, maybe it is just the stars lining up strangely.
But what awaits the two women is something far wilder than either could imagine.

I never expected to fall so much for this one!

I loved the whimsical nature of Schiaparelli -she was so vibrant and fun to read!

Chanel was cold, calculating and absolutely ruthless. Every time she came onto the page, it was pure gold.
"Go ahead," Coco said. "Weep. Baptize the gown if you must."
The only thing that was a bit of a stretch for me how quickly both incredible fashion designers latched onto little widowed Lily.

However, once Lily picked up the job for Schiaparelli, their fascination began to make sense.

The setting was convincingly done and the era was well-represented (at least to my (admittedly) untrained eye.

I adored all the little details that the author wove into the story - it absolutely swept me off my feet.

I loved how the author described the actual collections Schiaparelli and Chanel designed for during those years.

The clothing was so cool to read about - especially the circus themed collection. I would LOVED to have seen Chanel's reaction in real life.

All in all, this book was smart, witty and funny. It completely took me on a journey and I loved every minute of it.

With thanks to Berkley Publishing and the author for sending me a free copy in exchange for an honest review.

All quotes come from an uncorrected proof and are subject to change upon publication


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Profile Image for Julie .
4,248 reviews38k followers
November 6, 2019
The Last Collection by Jeanne Mackin is a 2019 Berkley publication.

Interesting, highly absorbing look at the lives of two fashion icons

Paris- 1938

Lily Sutter, an art teacher and grieving widow, accepts her brother, Charlie’s invitation to visit him in Paris. Once there, meets Charlie’s girlfriend, Ania, a woman who is trapped in a loveless marriage. Through her, Lilly finds herself involved with both Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, two highly competitive fashion designers.

The two women couldn’t be more different. The rivalry between them is very intense, even violent on occasion. However, the encroaching war spotlights their political disagreements as both prepare themselves for undeniable change. Lily finds herself caught up in their intrigue, narrating the story from her first- person perspective.

The author did a great job at weaving the political climate into a story centered around headstrong women and the colorful world of fashion. The sadness and fear that permeates Paris is palpable, which gives the story an extra layer of tension and poignancy.

To be honest, I’ve never had much interest in learning about the lives of fashion industry icons. I know book have been written and movies have been made about Coco Chanel, and like many other women I keep a bottle of Chanel 5 on my dresser. Other than that, I knew very little about her, but had heard rumors that she was a Nazi sympathizer- but never pursued the rumor.

Coco Chanel



Schiaparelli? I’m afraid I was only vaguely aware of this designer, and I think I may not be totally alone in that. For me this novel was fascinating, and I quickly found myself absorbed in the tactics the two designers resorted to in order to one up the other one.

Elsa Schiaparelli



While the antics of the Chanel and Schiaparelli is interesting- I can’t say I felt much compassion or empathy for them, although I did find their characters enthralling. I did, however, emotionally invest myself in Charles, Ania, and Lily’s segments of the book, which I thought was the most compelling part of the story.

As to the historical accuracy goes, I feel the author has done her homework, but because this is fiction, many of the inner thoughts provided are most likely speculative. As with any historical fiction novel, I’m also sure that some liberties were taken. However, because I’m so unfamiliar with the topic at hand, I can’t speak to that.

What I do know is that I found this story engrossing and thought provoking and enjoyed the approach the author took, giving Lily a chance to embrace her artistic nature and maybe find a second chance at love in the aftermath of so much tragedy and turmoil.

This was a very nice change of pace from the usual world war two inspired historical fiction that has become so popular this year. Even if you are not interested in fashion, the history, politics, and Paris location will soon draw you into the story and keep you engaged and invested in the drama from beginning to end!

4 stars
Profile Image for Holly  B .
950 reviews2,888 followers
July 4, 2019

4.25 STARS

A beautifully written novel highlighting two famous fashion designer icons. The gossip and rivalry was ever so entertaining and at times even shocking!

The Paris setting was fascinating as tensions were building as Germany and Hitler were on the move towards France.  It was a dangerous time in history.  I was curious how the designers would react to the invasion.

The novel follows Lily Sutter, an American teacher who travels to Paris to visit her brother.  She becomes a focus between the two iconic designers and their fued is escalated and the cat fighting becomes quite intense.

I enjoyed learning about their very different personalities and styles. Shiaparelli was more playful and edgy while Chanel was the legend of classic, elegant pieces.

I found this novel intriguing and at times gripping with a cast of strong personalities. A bit of glamour, some humor and a reminder of the dangerous period when Hitler was invading countries.

Fans of fashion and historical fiction will be thrilled with this one!

Out June 25,2019

Thanks to Berkley for my copy.

 
Profile Image for Tammy.
637 reviews506 followers
April 9, 2019
Two iconic fashion designers who couldn’t be more different: one is French and one is Italian, one is from wealth and the other is from poverty. They possessed different aesthetics, different political views and very different personality types. Coco Chanel is famous for simple lines, natural shapes and the introduction of trousers while Elsa Schiaparelli is famous for idiosyncrasy, whimsy, and the introduction of culottes. Prior to WWII, both befriend a penniless American widow who becomes enmeshed in their bitter rivalry. Their friendship continues through WWII and shortly beyond. Filled with the glitz and glamour of Paris during the heady days of indulgence before the war, this is solid historical fiction perfect for summer reading.
Profile Image for Annette.
956 reviews610 followers
November 4, 2020
“The thirties was a golden age of couture, and it was dominated by one city: Paris, and that city was dominated by two women: Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.”

Paris, 1938. Lily Sutter, art teacher, arrives in Paris to meet with her brother, who is visiting the city. While picking a dress at Elsa Schiaparelli’s boutique, Lily meets the famous designer again. Later through her brother’s girlfriend, she also meets Coco Chanel. Lily becomes “friends” with both fashion designers. Her short visit turns into a longer stay. She uses her artistic abilities to paint Elsa’s boutique windows.

Thus, Lily works for flamboyant Elsa, but at the same time she feels drawn to elegant Coco. In a way, both fashion icons use Lily for their rivalry as they both continuously fight for reputation and fame. “They were ambitious, sometimes vain, always talented, a new type of women who made their own rules.”

With the brewing political situation and talks of Hitler invading Paris, Elsa also has something else in mind for Lily. She needs to protect her daughter.

In general, I don’t like stories, which are propelled by rivalry, but I didn’t mind this one. It actually added some humor to the story. I enjoyed the views of two icons of each other. Coco, “That Italian arrivista was turning women into clowns. Dresses with silly buttons as big as tennis balls, flopping feathers all over the place, trains three yards long, animal embroideries and sequins like circus performer costumes.”

There is much depth to the interesting characters and their very different styles of fashion. Coco – epitome of style, simple and classy. Shiap – representing verve and confidence with bold colors and frippery. Dimensions are interestingly expressed, how the styles of fashion of those two icons reflect their childhoods. The characters are charged with emotions, making them very real.

The world of couture comes alive with designs of the two icons, fashion shows and what goes around them. Set against the brewing political situation, which brings effects of it on businesses and people.

Enjoyed the writing very much. It moves the story quickly. Beautifully crafted story brings the rich world of fashion and two icons who forged that world. Intimately presented, we get to know both women on both sides, public and private.
Profile Image for Jennifer ~ TarHeelReader.
2,785 reviews31.9k followers
July 3, 2019
The focus of The Last Collection is the rivalry between fashion designers Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Oh my! What a rivalry it was! Fierce! ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️

In 1938 Paris, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli are each trying to be the most well-known designer in France. Everyone knows they are rivals. Because of this, they choose to be polar opposites in every way. Where Chanel is classic and understated, Schiaparelli is bold and edgy.

Lily Sutter is a young American teacher visiting her brother, Charlie, in Paris who offers to buy her a Chanel dress. The problem? Lily would rather have a Schiaparelli. Then Charlie’s influential girlfriend decides she wants more clothes from Schiaparelli, too.

Lily is offered a job in Schiaparelli’s store, and more and more, Lily is in the middle of the fight between Chanel and Schiaparelli. The threat of World War II only heightens the intensity of their rivalry.

The Last Collection is smoothly written, and the rivalry between Schiaparelli and Chanel hooked me in from the start. I was struck by how the two designers differed on most everything. Sometimes rivalries develop when there is overlap, but here, fashion, art, and creativity seemed to be the only general overlaps.

I also enjoyed Lily’s characters and how she shared her art and healed from the loss of her husband. The time period and historical backdrop were written beautifully, and the characters were well-drawn as the complex and dynamic women they were. Every ounce of this was perfect storytelling, and I adored my time spent with this book reading about these three strong women. Historical fiction fans and fans of strong female characters will be pleased.

I received a complimentary copy. All opinions are my own.

My reviews can also be found on my blog: www.jennifertarheelreader.com
Profile Image for Jessica (Odd and Bookish).
707 reviews850 followers
July 18, 2019
I received this book for free from the publisher (Berkley Publishing) in exchange for an honest review.

This was a really fascinating book. It combined pre-WWII and WWII historical fiction with the cut throat world of haute couture fashion. It took me a little longer to get interested in it, but once I was, I was hooked!

Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli are two very intriguing women and this book does a great job showcasing their legendary rivalry. As the author writes, “Men who persist in the belief that women are soft, sentimental creatures have never worked in the fashion industry” (pg. 134).

description
The added backdrop of WWII created even more drama between the two. I liked that the book did not shy away from Coco’s affair with a famous Nazi.

The novel utilizes a third party, Lily Sutter, to highlight the complexities of both women. Lily ends up befriending and spending time with both of them and in doing so, we are shown a more intimate view of these two remarkable women.

Lastly, there was a really wonderful quote about fashion as a means of resistance. The book states, “Dressing well is resistance, revenge, pride, a form of control over forces trying to control us. That’s why, when taken prisoner, he first thing your enemy takes is that outer layer of your identity and independence: your clothes. That is why prisoners are put in identical uniforms. They no longer exist as individuals” (pg. 274).

Overall, this is an enthralling portrait of two headstrong fashion designers in the years leading up to World War II.
Profile Image for Brenda ~The Sisters~Book Witch.
1,008 reviews1,040 followers
July 29, 2019
3.5 Stars

The Last Collection is a fun and entertaining yet heartfelt story that explores the rivalry between iconic fashion designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jeanne Mackin does a fantastic job of bringing both women alive and showing us just how different they are from their designs to their political sides. I was drawn into their obsession with besting each other right from start to end. Jeanne Mackin does a good job weaving a part of history here by adding some tension to the story with the threat of the Nazi invasion.

The story is told through our main character Lily Sutter who becomes drawn into the middle of the rivalry between Elsa and Coco. Through her POV we are told a lot about design and that I didn't find that interesting and at times weighed down the story for me. Back in the day, I would have been so into this one with the description of clothing and colour however now I am all about runner shoes and have no flair for design at all. My husband well that's a different story. Lol

I received a complimentary copy from the publisher.
Profile Image for Karine.
444 reviews20 followers
April 13, 2025
A fascinating look at the rivalry between Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli and Paris on the eve of World War II, The Last Collection is told from the perspective of a young American painter grieving the loss of her husband. She describes scenes in vivid color. The drama involves her handsome brother, his socialite girlfriend, and the gaiety and apprehension that precedes war. It's a well written and enjoyable read.
Profile Image for Stephanie .
615 reviews92 followers
June 19, 2019
I've always been a lover of fashion, was obsessed with fashion designers and design at one point in my life thanks to my artist mother who scattered our home with fashion magazines because she, just like Elsa Schiaparelli, always said couture and high fashion is every much an art form as paintings or drawings. Reading The Last Collection was just sublime as I loved reading more about icons Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, two women who couldn't be more different if they tried, and their well-known rivalry.

Jeanne Mackin has written an exquisite novel set amidst the backdrop of the beginning of WWII in Paris, 1938, where fashion houses were dominated by two women: Chanel and Schiaparelli.  Coco was known for her very tailored looks, lean proportions, black and white colors, tweeds, feminized men's looks―class, elegance, and simplicity. Schiap, on the other hand, was all about artistic freedom, creativity, and innovation―bold colors, designs, and materials. Dressing the echelon of society and being recognized as the best drove their rivalry.

Becoming entwined with both women and their rivalry is the story's main protagonist, Lily Sutter, the widowed American teacher/artist living in France whose first person POV immediately draws you into the story, the events-fictional and non-fictional, the characters, and setting. Lily's lost all ability to paint after her husband's death and her world is dull and gray. Yet once she is caught up in the world of Paris, befriends Ania, becomes close to Schiap and Coco (as close as anyone can), she begins a journey of self-discovery that allows her to see the world in color again and also begin to paint.

I felt the writing was magical as Mackin blends fact with fiction to create this fascinating and tense novel. Schiap and Coco are major parts of the narrative, including facts like the much talked about incident when Coco accidentally-on purpose caused Schiap’s costume to catch fire while they were dancing, Coco's affair with Nazi officer Von Dincklage, Schiap's socialism, and more. But there's more to this story with fictional characters like Lily, Ania, Lily's brother Charlie, and Otto. As their stories overlap the iconic women, Mackin writes an absorbing and emotional novel that seems so realistic that I almost Googled Lily!

The Last Collection is a fascinating, highly detailed novel that gives great insight into the fashion houses of the 1930s, the wonderful creativity of Chanel and Schiaparelli, descriptions of their clothing and accessory designs and of course, the impact of WWII. Highly recommended for fashion lovers and history lovers.

**Thank you Berkley Books for the gifted copy. All opinions are my own.**
Profile Image for Renée Rosen.
Author 12 books2,169 followers
September 21, 2018
Fascinating look at two fashion icons as different as the clothes they designed. Review coming soon!
Profile Image for °•.Melina°•..
407 reviews608 followers
June 7, 2023
•🇫🇷🥐👗رمان قشنگ و سرگرم‌کننده‌ای بود از دهه‌ی سی و چهل در پاریس، که به رقابت طراحان مشهور اون دوره یعنی "کوکو شنل و السا اسکیاپارلی" میپردازه که درواقع شخصیت اصلی تو دایره‌ی دوستان اینها قرار میگیره و علاوه بر پلات داستان زندگی خودش به زندگی اونها و اتفاقات روز پاریس میپردازه.

⭐یک ستاره که برای حال و هوا و فضاسازی پاریس که برام مثل واجبات میمونه هرچندوقت یبار با یکی از کتاب ها برم پاریس و برگردم.

⭐یک ستاره هم برای شخصیت‌پردازی‌های عالی که تک به تکشون خاص و قابل لمس بودن و واقعا هرکدوم برای خودشون پلات جداگانه‌ای داشتن که تو ۳۴۰ صفحه خیلی خوب جمعش کرده بود.

⭐یک ستاره هم برای خلاقیتش در این زمینه که دو تا از چهره‌های مشهور تاریخ،جزو شخصیت‌های داستان بودن-تاحالا کتابی نخونده بودم که اینطور باشه-و تحقیق و مطالعه‌ی زیادی میطلبه که به خوبی از پسش بر اومده بود

⭐و یک ستاره هم به لذتی که از قلمش بردم،چیزهای خاص خودش رو داشت به طور مثال محور قرار دادن "رنگ‌ها" و توصیف همه چیز با رنگ‌ها،به دلیل هنرمند بودن شخصیت‌اصلی و دیدگاهی که داشت؛جالب بود.

خلاصه اینکه،روزی که برم پاریس،
داستان و کرکترای این کتاب یکی از صدها مواردیه که قراره بیاد جلوی چشمم.
Profile Image for Amy.
1,277 reviews460 followers
September 22, 2022
You know I really loved this take. One would think I would be sick of Coco Chanel by now, but her story and character are fascinating, and it was such a unique time in history told through such an interesting lens of fashion and politics.

In this take, Lily Sutter is a fictional character who lands in Paris after her husband's death, to visit with her brother, who is embroiled in an affair with one of the mistresses of Hans Von Dinklage "Spatz", the german lover of Coco Chanel. Got that? She lands squarely between the last collection of the fashion rivalry taking place between Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel, both who warm to her. The war is heating up. All kinds of alliances are being tested. Even fashinistas are forced to take a stand, as well as try to stay safe and help loved ones. Its complicated and our heroine relates to and feels compassion for both women, as well as Ania, the woman her brother loves. A german aristocratic woman, who happens to be Jewish, who cannot leave her child behind. The book was a great take. I enjoyed it.

So the big question is this. If I weren't taking a deep dive on Coco Chanel this year, her being my remarkable person of the year, would I be recommending this book to others as something that stands on its own? I think yes. If you like that kind of thing. The last thing I would say which was moving and really interesting, is the author, and main character Lily's experience of color (despite her grief) and how colors are used and what they represent, socially, politically, emotionally. She uses not just color, but shape and style, to elucidate the differences between the two women. I do believe that is also supposed to represent the growing sides of the ideology surrounding the brewing war, as well as life itself. I thought that was really well done, and kept me engaged and thinking. I thought it was rather good writing in that regard.
Profile Image for Cindy Burnett (Thoughts from a Page).
672 reviews1,119 followers
August 1, 2020
4.5 stars

The Last Collection chronicles the careers and rivalry between Coco Chanel and Else Schiaparelli beginning in Paris at the start of World War 2. Polar opposites in almost every way, the two women find themselves pitted against each other in their competition to rule the French fashion industry during the glamorous 1930s and 1940s. Chanel favored a more tailored and elegant look while Schiap (as she was known to many) chose to make statements with her designs and often experimented with avant-garde and daring looks.

Mackin creates a fictional character, American Lily Sutter, to tell the story of the two fashion designers which works effectively. Lily works for Schiap in Paris, but also has a connection to Chanel through her brother and his married girlfriend so she is able to provide fabulous tales and insights about both of the women and the fashion industry itself. In the background of the designers’ stories is the Nazi threat and Germany’s eventual occupation of Paris.

The Last Collection is an in-depth tale of a glamorous, dangerous, and fascinating time period in Paris, and Mackin’s attention to detail and lyrical prose bring Chanel and Schiap to life in a gorgeous and riveting manner.

Listen to my podcast at https://www.thoughtsfromapage.com for fun author interviews. For more book reviews, check out my Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/thoughtsfro....
Profile Image for Patricia.
524 reviews126 followers
May 13, 2019
THE LAST COLLECTION is a great read which took me into the world of couture with Chanel and Schiaparelli. The novel begins with a young American widow, Lily, going to Paris to visit her brother. Soon after arriving her brother wants to purchase a Chanel gown for Lily , but Lily prefers a Schiaparelli gown. When her brother returns to the US, Lily gets a job with Schiaparelli and becomes acquainted with Chanel. World War II is approaching and life is getting dangerous. I loved this novel, and I believe other women will too!
Profile Image for Britany.
1,165 reviews500 followers
August 18, 2019
I'm happy to finally have finished this one.

This sounded so good and interesting and a topic that I wasn't familiar with at all (PLUS WW2 themes) sign me up! This book fell flat real quick and I'm glad that it's over.

The story is told from a random perspective of Lily, who goes to Paris to visit her brother Charles and befriends Elsa (Schiap) and Coco. She gets involved in the middle of the feud and a love affair between her brother and Ania- a gorgeous married woman. Hitler is invading other countries and it's only a matter of time before Paris is invaded.

Way too much going on to believe these storylines and too many threads that left me uninterested and made it hard to continue picking this book up. I couldn't connect with any of these characters and even found the feud boring. This one just missed the mark for me.

Thank you to Berkley and Netgalley for an advanced copy of this book in exchange for my honest review.
Profile Image for Michelle.
653 reviews192 followers
June 27, 2019
Catfight's Are Never Out of Fashion
I have read many novels set during World War II but none told from the perspective of Jeanne Mackin’s The Last Collection: A Novel of Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel ruled the fashion world in 1938 Paris. Both of these women had a vision. Both were strong-minded and tough-skinned. Albeit, as business women, they faced and overcame many obstacles. In every other regard, they were polar opposites and arch nemeses. Their intense rivalry highlighted their differences in fashion sense. Chanel’s designs were classic and practical, while Schiaparelli’s collections were inventive and whimsical. Suffice it to say, their influence extended beyond the fashion world and into the political realm as well. With the war looming ahead Schiaparelli and Chanel picked their sides early on. Elsa Schiaparelli held great disdain for Mussolini, Hitler and anything remotely Fascist. Despite recognizing the threat it would bring to her and her daughter, she rebuffed any favors from the Germans and worked along with the resistance. Coco Chanel secured her safety by dating one of the high ranking German generals. Despite England’s stance at the time it was a greater risk for Schiaparelli to be Socialist than it was for Coco Chanel to date a Nazi.



I want to thank Lauren Horvath from Berkley Publicity for sending me this book. It would never have occurred to me to pick up a book about fashion but I was pleasantly surprised. I gained a new perspective on that time period and found her description of Paris in the 30s enthralling. The frivolity and abandon enjoyed by the rich and politically connected was like the calm before the storm. I also appreciated Mackin’s choice of Lily Cooper as a narrator. Using an unassuming young widow as the narrator gave a voice to the poorer class and served the purpose of allowing the reader to see their bitter rivalry from a neutral standpoint. Would recommend this book to historical fiction buffs.
Profile Image for Magdalena aka A Bookaholic Swede.
2,061 reviews886 followers
July 7, 2019
Lily Sutter had no idea that an invitation from her brother to come to Paris would introduce her both to Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. The year is 1939, and the Nazi threat is growing stronger and stronger. However, in Paris is it already war - a fashion war between Chanel and Schiaparelli. For Lily, it all starts with her wanting a Schiaparelli dress instead of a Chanel. Suddenly, Lily a teacher, is offered a job at Schiaparelli store. But it's a time of unrest and being in Paris at the time could be dangerous...

READ THE REST OF THE REVIEW OVER AT FRESH FICTION!
Profile Image for Bam cooks the books.
2,303 reviews322 followers
June 26, 2019
Historical fiction revolving around the two great fashion designers, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, who each had very successful fashion houses in Paris and were intense rivals.

The story begins in 1938 and is told from the point of view of Lily, a young, grieving widow and aspiring artist who comes to Paris at the urging of her younger brother Charlie. There she meets both fashion designers through Charlie's wealthy and beautiful lover, Ania, and forms a friendship with both women.

Coco and Elsa are as different as night and day and fiercely competitive. "Because Schiap was an artist, there was a philosophy to her collections, and a theme that demonstrated the philosophy." Her designs were colorful and playful while Coco's were more chic and classic in style, favoring a neutral palette. Think little black dress.

They also differed in their political views: Elsa was very anti-fascist, leaning more towards communism; Coco was what was later called 'a horizontal collaborator' with her liaison with German diplomat, Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage.

While their rivalry is going on, Lily slowly but surely comes to herself again, not forgetting her grief for her husband exactly but realizing life does go on. Prewar Paris is full of gaiety and colors and she feels the urge to paint again. And perhaps maybe she could even love again?

I enjoy when a work of historical fiction gives a different slant on familiar events--in this case, the world of fashion and how the war affected the lives of two very fascinating, talented and independent women.

If I had one criticism of the story it would be that I found some parts repetitive. One scene especially, where Coco sets Elsa's costume on fire at a party--that is brought up too many times, even by Coco! How many times must one pay for one's mistakes?

I received an arc of this book from the publisher via NetGalley in exchange for an honest review. Thank you!
Profile Image for Adrienne.
527 reviews128 followers
August 10, 2019
My rating incorporates my lifelong fascination with both famous Paris designers. An appreciation learned from my mother: with her strong elegance and style.
Mackin used the analogy of colour throughout, since she uses an artist whose fascination is painting the colors of modern art, as her narrator. The artist expresses everything in colour to describe times, events, people and places. Eg ..."like the last application of colour to a canvass"..."layer upon layer of colour, and when the final one is applied, gold bursts upon the backs of your closed eyelids". I can appreciate that moment when I have seen, felt and heard perfection.
I have discovered another top historical fiction writer. Unputdownable.
Profile Image for Mackenzie - PhDiva Books.
771 reviews14.6k followers
September 25, 2020
Come for the glamour of the Paris fashion scene, stay for the legendary rivalry that pushed two incredible women to great lengths to prove that women can be creative, successful, and powerful. A book to totally lose yourself in!

I love historical fiction that creates a fictional story around real people and events. The Last Collection tells the story of icons Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli from the perspective of an American woman, Lily. Broken into three parts, the book uses vivid imagery throughout to accentuate the turmoil going on among the characters.

Chanel is a French fashion designer who promoted classic, sporty designs in neutral colors that freed women from the more restrictive corseted styles that had defined the last century. Meanwhile Schiaparelli came from a wealthy Italian family and promoted bright, colorful, and patterned designs that inspired more artistic, whimsical fashion with less focus on craftsmanship and structure. Both women were iconic and remain so to this day, though Chanel has more lasting notoriety due to the longevity of her brand.

The fictional American artist and widow Lily becomes embedded in the circles of both Chanel and Schiaparelli as their rivalry heats up. Lily ‘s character is important to the telling of the story, as she remains a more objective voice between the two powerful personalities, and often becomes a pawn in their feud. Lily views the world through creative expression, often associating colors with the essence of the events around her. I’ve always been drawn to fashion as art, and this story really showcased two iconic designers in that light.

And of course, there is the pre-WWII tensions in Paris unfolding at the same time as the story. I liked learning more about how Chanel and Schiaparelli were influenced by and agents of the period of time between the two wars. The rivalry between two women who may have different views on Fashion and politics, but are similar in their ambitions was truly a joy to read. The gossip, the secrets, the parties, and the fashion do not disappoint! A good mix of politics and drama, I loved this story!

Thank you to Berkley Publishing for my copy. Opinions are my own.
Profile Image for Lynn.
1,210 reviews208 followers
January 20, 2020
This book is a fictional account of the rivalry between Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel as seen through the eyes of Lily Sutter, a young American widow and aspiring artist, who is befriended by both of them.

In 1938, Lily leaves her job at an English girls school to visit with her beloved brother Charlie, who is in Paris for the summer. He and his married lover, Ania take her to the Schiaparelli salon for a gown to wear to a ball. After meeting Elsa Schiaparelli, Lily starts to work for her as a window dresser while she starts to paint again. Coco Chanel befriends Lily, and at times Lily is caught up in the feud between the two designers. As the relationships play out, including Charlie and Ania, war with Germany looms in the background, putting everything that the designers and their friends have worked so hard for in jeopardy.

One of the main things that I enjoyed about this book is how the author weaves colors throughout the narrative. There are three sections, labeled Blue, Red and Yellow. The author shows how the symbolism of each color affects the narrative in that section. It is absolutely brilliant at times.

The story is told from Lily’s, Coco’s and Elsa’s perspectives, each giving a different side of an event. All three women are fascinating, as is Ania, who eventually finds herself in an impossible situation. I really like Lily and Elsa as people. I found it hard to warm up to Coco, even when her vulnerabilities were exposed. I have to say, though, I would wear Chanel’s clothes over Schiaparelli’s any day. I often went down the Google rabbit hole, looking at the designers’ fashions.

I could not put this book down, and read it in two sittings. It is very well written, the story is intriguing and compelling and you just keep turning the pages. Many real life historical people are interspersed in the fictional narrative, which makes the story even more memorable.

An interesting factoid in the author’s notes: Elsa Schiaparelli’s granddaughter, Berry Berenson died on one of the planes that flew into the World Trade Center on 9/11/01. Another interesting factoid: although Elsa and Coco ruled the couture world in the 1930s, all the influential designers who came after them were men.

I absolutely recommend this book!
Profile Image for Sharon Huether.
1,737 reviews48 followers
June 2, 2019
1938 in Paris two rival dress designers were still at it.
Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli; their salons within walking distance of each other. Coco's designs were always classic and Elsa's were brilliant, one more showier than the last one. Her favorite color was a shocking pink and was used a lot in her designs.

War was on the horizon, everything changed in Paris.
Uniforms for soldiers were manufactured as well as silks were made into parachutes.

Schiaparelli retired and Chanel kept going.

An interesting look at fashions during that time in history.

I won this free book from Goodreads First reads.
Profile Image for Andrei Cioată.
Author 4 books427 followers
June 20, 2021
Eleganță, război, dramă, iubire, profunzime! Chiar mi-a plăcut!
Profile Image for Nilo0.
629 reviews140 followers
May 17, 2021
قشنگ بود. دوسش داشتم
با این کتاب در دل دهه سی پاریس، زمانی که دوران طلایی لباس و مد بود رفتم. رقایت بین دو طراح مد مشهور کوکو شنل و السا اسکیا پارلی که از اسکیاپارلی اطلاعاتی نداشتم
شنل و اسکیاپ در مد و سیاست نقطه مقابل هم بودند و رقابت شدیدی داشتند. طراحی شنل کلاسیک، برازنده و باوقار بود و طراحی اسکیاپ جسورانه، تجربی و فراواقعی
سیاست اسکیاپ کمونیسم و ضدفاشیست بود شنا در دوران جنگ با فون دیکلنج اف��ر تبلیغات نازی ها رابطه داشت و با کمک چرچیل از زندانی شدن گریخت
شخصیت لی لی و برادرش چارلی احتمالا شخصیت های ساختگی نویسنده بودند که بتونه در قالب این شخصیت ها به زندگی کوکو و اسکیاپ بپردازه و تاثیر این دو شخصیت و مد رو حتی در دل جنگ نشون بده
ریتم کتاب آهسته اما دلنشین بود
اتفاق چندان هیجان انگیزی نداشت اما من رو در دل دنیای مد پاریس فرو برد
اگه به خوندن درباره مد، پاریس و جنگ علاقه دارید، کتاب قشنگیه
Profile Image for Stefanie.
1,182 reviews69 followers
August 20, 2019
The Last Collection: A story of Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.

I was pleasantly surprised by this book and wasn’t sure what to expect when I started to flip through the pages.

Travel back in time to Paris in 1938, where Lily, newly widowed, comes across the ocean from New York to visit her brother.
Paris at this time is bathed in fashion. The couturiers are flourishing and fashion dictates everything—what you did, where you went, how you shopped and lived. Fashion set the stage for the whole world and in 1938 Paris was the center of it all.
Lily finds herself smack in the middle of the Coco Chanel and Else Schiaparelli’s rivalry after her brother invites her to well-off party where she’ll need a piece that’s in style and not from the drab wardrobe she brought with her. She decides on a Schiaparelli dress and this one decision sets her into a flurry of drama.

I know very little about major fashion trends and styles, especially from that time period, but this book was fascinating and really gave you an in depth look into the historic rivalry between these two iconic designers. Everyone knows about Coco, but it was nice to learn some things about Elsa as well.

This book wasn’t just a fashion drama novel though. It’s set in Paris before WWII breaks out and it surprised me when this element came into play and hooked my attention completely by the time I hit the halfway point.

If you’re looking for a historical fiction novel that’s very different from what’s out there right now, I’d highly recommend this one! It doesn’t matter if you’re a fashion guru or not.
Profile Image for Michelle.
Author 13 books1,535 followers
January 6, 2019
I was lucky enough to get my hands on an advanced copy of this, and here are my thoughts:
THE LAST COLLECTION brings to center stage the fascinating life of Elsa Schiaparelli in a story that is as elegantly constructed as the clothes she designed. The combination of Schiap’s fierce rivalry with Coco Chanel and the inevitable war makes for a palpable tension and Jeanne Mackin ultimately delivers an ending that is beautiful, heartbreaking, and perfect in every way.
Profile Image for FMABookReviews.
637 reviews400 followers
March 30, 2019
WOW! Simply stunning! I would have never picked this book up on my own and am deeply grateful to Chanel Cleeton and Berkley Publishing. If I had not won your Instagram contest, I would never have known what I was missing!

This story brings to life the fascinating lives of Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. It begins in the late 1930s at the beginning of Hitler's reign and spans through the world's deadliest conflict, the second World War, and ends in 1954. Jeanne Mackin brilliantly portrays the effects the war had on the fashion world and her characters.

Lilly Sutter's brother, Charlie is in France and madly in love with a married woman. Needing someone to accompany him and Ania on their dates, he telegrams Lilly and asks her to come to Paris. Even though he can't afford it, he insists on buying her a Chanel gown for the event they are all going to. But Lilly prefers Schiaparelli to Chanel and when Ania discovers Schiap's fashions, she switches her loyalties from Chanel to Schiaparelli. Suddenly, Lilly finds herself splitting friendships between Coco and Schiaparelli, two of Paris's most revered fashion designers and fierce rivals.

One of the things I first noticed when I started this book was the beautiful writing of Jeanne Mackin. Her voice is like nothing I've ever read. Her characters are beautiful and real. She captured Paris with stunning descriptions that made me feel like I was standing on the same streets her characters stood or stared at the same paintings her characters enjoyed.

I grew up with my mother loving fashion. As a single parent of two girls, she wasn't able to afford Chanel, but we had plenty of fashion magazines laying around the house. I poured through those magazines and dreamed of one day wearing those designs. Reading this book was like reminiscing my childhood, it brought to life the designers and fashion I used to daydream about.

My reading choices are romance with a bit of self-help thrown in. But sometimes you just need to go out on a limb and jump! That's what I did, and I cannot tell you how happy I am that the cover, description and subject matter intrigued me enough to take the chance. To my romance-loving friends, I beg of you to give this a shot.

THE LAST COLLECTION is a riveting portrayal of love, rivalry, loyalty, and passion.

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Profile Image for  Cookie M..
1,436 reviews161 followers
June 19, 2022
I knew nothing of either Coco Channel or Elsa School are loo except that they were famous designers before I read this fictionalized story about their lives in Paris before the war years.
I did find it an interesting read, but I was not all that caught up in it. The author made it easy for me to lay their story into the timeline of other important Parisian figures of the time, so it made for A complete world.
I received this book free from Goodreads in exchange for an honest review.
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